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be taken in the morning immediately upon arising. When the spray or plunge cannot be borne, a good sponging from head to feet can be resorted to. The skin should be dried by rubbing with a rough towel, which will give the blood a healthy rousing and bring all the organs into activity.

The hot or warm bath has its purposes as certainly as the cold bath.

Persons with delicate constitutions, and those suffering from over-fatigue, find it very beneficial; in the latter instance relaxation of the muscles is produced and the body prepared for a healthy sleep.

In cases where a dry hard skin is the cause of annoyance, the hot bath will be found invaluable, and its regular use is recommended. The objections to a too frequent use of the warm bath is that it is enervating, and especially so when a long time is spent in the water. Unlike the cold bath, it does not stimulate the skin and its accessories to healthy action, and when used to excess it causes the epidermis to become wrinkled and flabby. The warm bath decreases the circulation an1 impairs the nervous force also, making those who indulge in it very susceptible to atmospheric changes.

The top of the head should invariably be wetted first when the entire body is to be immersed.

The rationale of the bath is one of the most important things to have clearly understood. A distinguished English physician says of it: "Doubtless, when judiciously employed and when a proper glow follows, it is a beneficial tonic. The blood, driven from the surface by the contraction of the blood vessels, is returned to the heart and the circulation is quickened. But where no reaction takes place, where the skin remains blue, the cold bath has done positive mischief, and next time tepid water shoul1 be used. The truth is that warm and cold water have precisely the same results in different people. In the strong, cold water secures a reaction, and the same warmth is obtained as is obtained directly and without reaction when a less sturdy person uses warm water. The effect is to quicken the circulation. In one case the blood is driven in upon the internal organs, which in their turn propel it again to the extremities; and in the other case the blood is drawn to the surface and extremities, the vessels in the skin being relaxed and opened by the genial warmth. And I would remark that in cases where there is a tendency to lose the hair the friction with the rough towel that is so useful in assisting circulation after a bath, and therefore so salutary to the skin, is by no

means advantageous to the hair, which it loosens and causes to fall in greater quantities."

A hard cracking skin cannot receive too much moisture, and the latest method of treating extreme cases of this kind is to subject the patient to complete immersion for weeks and months at a time.

The thin, delicate, sensitive cuticle, on the other hand, can be speedily harmed by inju dicious excess in the use of the bath. Hard water or alkali soaps will often produce cutaneous trouble, the true cause of which will be unsuspected by the sufferer. Rain water, or water softened by the addition of a few drops of ammonia, and distilled water, are also very soothing and agreeable to tender skins. Among the varieties of soap which are desirable, white castile probably ranks first. In making this soap, olive and linseed oils are combined, the other ingredient being poppy or ground nut. Palm oil, castor oil, and cocoanut oil soaps are also favored by dermatologists.

In order to wash the face properly a lather should be made with soap and warm water, which should be rubbed in with the hand preferably to using a towel or flannel. The face should next be washed with tepid water until every particle of soap is removed, and then finally a bathing with cold water should complete the operation.

In order that the constitution of the skin and its organism may be perfectly comprehended, it may be stated that, according to scientific analysis, complexion is known to be the result of a certain arrangement of pigment molecules. This molecular deposit develops from the blood by a certain chemical process, and in due course forms the hue of the complexion, hair and eyes.

Dark and light complexions are due to the greater or less amount of this pigment deposited by the system, the former being due to the excess of the molecules.

We thus find that the various styles of complexion are due to the greater or less quantity of blood driven into the small vessels near the surface of the skin, and to the character of the blood.

Paleness or flushing are due either to the abrupt contraction or expansion of these channels, caused by the action of the nerves upon them, whose function it is to regulate the condition of the epidermis.

PHYSICAL EXERCISE, OR CALIS-
THENICS.

The pallid sickly looking person is never addicted to indulgence in physical exercise.

Beauty as it is admired to-day bears the insignia of health, and rosy cheeks will win more appreciative glances than sallow ones. Hygiene is therefore so closely allied to the question of preserving personal charms that it enters at every stage into the curriculum. The languid and sentimental miss of a quarter century ago has given place to a style which is more dashing than it is statuesque, and more inclined to go to the extremes in an opposite direction. There is no doubt that the race is a gainer by the change, both in appearance and health.

The question of physical exercise is much like that of the bath, depending to a large extent upon the constitution of the individual.

Many women find bicycling to be beneficial in the highest degree, while others become physical wrecks from the use of the wheel. Outdoor exercise of some kind is of course essential to perfect health and its usual concomitant, beauty.

At certain seasons of the year and under certain circumstances it may not, however, be convenient to indulge in it as often as desirable, and there are also other reasons of a more general character for the practice of those exercises which come under the classification of calisthenics.

For the expansion of the chest the following simple movement has been devised: Upon arising from bed walk several times briskly around the chamber. Next stand in as absolutely erect a position as possible, extending the arms backward and forward from the shoulders to their full length for a number of times.

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pivot, turn it at the hips as far both to right and left as possible without changing the position of the feet. Again resuming the vertical poise, lean the body alternately to left and right a number of times and as far as possible without losing the balance. A finishing touch is to lift one knee at a time as high as possible and swing it back and forth in the hip socket. This movement will lend suppleness to the joints and consequent gracefulness to the carriage, besides promoting the general health.

One of the most valuable exercises for the development of grace and symmetry is fencing, now so much practiced by women. Too much cannot be said in favor of this diversion, which brings into play all the muscles of the body and trains both eye and hand to unerring accuracy.

Dumbbells may be used to great advantage by women, but their weight should not exceed two pounds, nor should they be used for a longer period than ten minutes, once or twice a day.

The art of being graceful is one of the most difficult to acquire, either by women or men, and the only royal road to it is by means of a course of calisthenics.

Suppleness of the joints may be secured by using an ointment composed of venison fat, eight ounces; musk, one grain; white brandy, half a pint; rosewater, four ounces. Rub on at bedtime and remove with a sponge and water in the morning.

THE STANDARD OF BEAUTY.

This movement should be executed slowly and no unusual exertion is necessary. The The ancients regarded the Venus de Medici breath should be drawn gently through the as the true standard of proportion in form and nostrils while the exercise is being taken. The feature. Her measurements were as follows: next thing is to drop the hands straight down Height, 63 inches; breadth of neck, 4 inches; beside the body, raising them slowly and ex- of shoulders, 16 inches; of waist, 9 inches; tending them outward until the motion brings and of hips, 13 inches. the finger tips together at the top of the head. This movement should be repeated several times, and may be followed by another one equally simple. Place the hands upon the hips first, and then stretch them out straight, bringing them together in front by a meeting of the tips of the fingers. The same movement can be practiced in the opposite direction and the fingers made to meet at the back.

A better movement still is supposed to be the following: Assume an erect pose and elevate the arms over the head. Keeping them straight outward, bend the body forward until the finger tips, descending, touch the floor. This can be repeated as many times as will not fatigue. Follow this by returning the body to its erect posture, and, using the base of the body as a

The standard upheld by the Berlin Royal Academy of Arts varies slightly from this. Its measurements are: Height, 634 inches; breadth of neck, 3 inches; of shoulders, 15 inches; of waist, 9 inches; of hips, 13 inches.

The composite measurement of the Ameri can college girl is as follows: Height, 63 inches; breadth of neck, 3.8 inches; girth of neck, 12.1 inches; breadth of shoulders, 14.7 inches; breadth of waist, 8.6 inches; girth of waist, 24.6 inches; breadth of hips, 13.1 inches; girth of hips, 35.4 inches; girth of upper part of arm, 10.1 inches; girth of thigh, 21.4 inches; and of forearm, 9.2 inches.

The rules given for assuming the proper posture and attitude while in a standing position are as follows: In the first place the corre

sponding halves of the body must be in the same anatomical relation, the center of gravity of the whole body falling just in front of the last lumbar vertebræ. In order to admit of this pose being the natural one, and capable of being sustained for the greatest length of time without inconvenience, there must be perfect symmetry of the bony structure and an equal development of the muscles on the back and front of the body. Any exercise which tends to bring about an unequal development of the muscles will have a deterrent influence on the health and gracefulness of the body. Such physical defects as curvature of the spine, drooping shoulders and oblique poise of the head are due to this inequality or to structural malformation.

It is within the province of the physical trainer to remedy any irregular muscular development, and the latter ills, which are mostly deformities at birth, are now frequently remedied by the aid of surgical skill.

The normal weights in proportion to the height of the body of any individual are as follows: 5 feet tall, 120 lbs.; 5 feet 1 in., 125 lbs.; 5 feet 5 in., 145 lbs.; 5 feet 8 in., 160 lbs. ; 5 feet 10 in., 170 lbs. ; 6 feet, 180 lbs.

A scale has recently been compiled for infants, as follows:

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'The two radical remedies which the chemist offers for this purpose are the astringent and the emollient. The dry, hard skin, which results in many minor surface disorders and abnormal desquamation finds its remedy in the latter, while the wrinkled, flabby and tender skin will be remedied, at least superficially, by the application of an astringent.

The principal astringents are the acids, alum, lime-water, chalk, and certain preparations of copper, zinc, iron and lead.

Emollients are derived from natural oils and fatty substances.

The use of benzine for the complexion as a remedy for congestion has also been much advocated in recent years.

The basis of most of the astringent preparations on the market is either alum or corrosive sublimate.

Either of these can be bought in quantities for nominal prices.

The indiscriminate use of the latter has ruined the complexions of thousands of un fortunate victims of irresponsible nostrum venders.

Peroxide of hydrogen and sulphur are new agents in the treatment of the complexion.

The value of sulphur used both inwardly and externally has long been known to authorities on the skin.

Peroxide of hydrogen is of more recent introduction. Although known in chemistry for half a century it has only of late years become popular in the hands of the dermatologist.

Brown patches and discolorations of all kinds which will yield to no other treatment can be removed by its use. Many forms of cutaneous trouble that cannot be reached by other agencies yield to this drug, which is also used for bleaching the hair, finger-nails, hands and other parts which are stained or discolored from any cause. It is an antiseptic, and has been used internally for diphtheria, as well as for many other purposes.

The greatest care must be taken in using this drug, so that the eyebrows and hair are not touched, as it will immediately bleach them

white.

The desideratum in the way of complexion is a firm, healthily tinted skin, and the frequent use of cold water will do more to secure it than anything else when the cuticle is fairly healthy. The face should be dried first with a rough towel and then gently rubbed with a chamois leather. Warm water is best used when the face is not going to be immediately exposed to outside air, and should be as tepid as possible under such circumstances, because

the hotter it is the more it contracts the pores and prevents healthy action of the skin.

A glycerine or almond soap used in washing will prepare the skin better for exposure outdoors, and a little powdered chalk may be used without detriment.

When returning to the house, in order to remove all traces of perspiration a little borax may be added to the water used for washing in. It does more than this, leaving a soft, white glow to the skin which it acts upon in all ways beneficially.

Care should be taken not to indulge in too frequent ablutions, as the skin is extremely susceptible and is not benefited when healthy by absorbing too much moisture.

Sun baths, with the whole body absolutely exposed to the unrestricted rays, cannot be too highly recommended, the effect being to increase the elasticity of the skin so necessary in preserving the perfect contours. For very oily skins a little ammonia or benzoin dropped in the water will be found beneficial, and alum can be used when necessary to stop temporarily a too profuse perspiration. A prescription which has been advantageously used in such cases is the following: Blanched Jordan almonds, one ounce, blanched bitter almonds, three drams. Put these into a pint of distilled water, form into an emulsion and then strain. To this add fifteen grains of corrosive sublimate, dissolved in another half pint of distilled water. Use the emulsion not more frequently than twice a day-night and morning.

The following will be found a cheap and harmless bleach for the face and neck: To one pint of distilled water put ten grains of powdered corrosive sublimate. When fully dissolved add an ounce of pure glycerine. This may be used two or three times a day.

The following formula for an astringent skin lotion is also recommended by some chemists. To four ounces each of white wine vinegar and rosewater add half an ounce of dried rose leaves. Dilute with distilled water.

Oily skins need an astringent lotion made up as follows: Benzine, four ounces, rosewater, two ounces, and five grains of alum.

Cold cream for tender face and lips may be made as follows:

One ounce of pure white wax melted in four ounces of oil of almonds over a very slow fire, to which add gradually a quarter pint of distilled rosewater, stirring until cold.

Care should be taken to study the character of the skin so that proper treatment may be applied to it.

Every woman can under ordinary circumstances be her own complexion specialist, but

the treatment must be appropriate to the case or successful results will not be achieved.

Cocoa buttermilk, which is much used by some ladies, can be made from the following: Powdered borax, 24 drams; powdered castile soap, 5 drams; cocoanut oil, 2 ounces and 2 drams; distilled water, 2 fl. ounces; rosewater, 26 fl. ounces; oil of bergamot, 10 drops; oil of neroli, 5 drops; oil of wintergreen, 2 drops; oil of ylang-ylang, 1 drop; oil of almonds, 1 drop.

The first four articles should be pounded together in a mortar for ten minutes, then the rosewater be gradually poured on, the mixture well compounded, and perfumes subsequently added.

Compared with the simpler methods used for bleaching the skin in the present day some of the old time formulas appear to be very elaborate. The following was a favorite formula at the Spanish court.

"To a pint of white wine vinegar put a full handful of well-sifted wheat bran, steeping it for several hours, and adding the yolks of five eggs with two grains of ambergris. Distil, and bottle for fourteen days. Use when making the toilet, and a polished whiteness of the complexion will ensue."

For a dry, hard skin, lanoline, which is made from the wool of sheep, is now extensively used in various combinations, commonly known as skin food. Mutton tallow is a fair substitute for lanoline, but not so rich in animal oil. These should be used at retiring, being rubbed gently into the skin until the cuticle is thoroughly impregnated.

To produce a bright and rosy complexion the following formula should be used: Boil one ounce of gum benzoin in spirits of wine until the liquid assumes a deep, rich hue, and then add thereto two parts of white brandy and one of water.

A skin luster which cannot be surpassed is much used in St. Petersburg. The formula is given by a Russian court beauty. It somewhat resembles one previously stated. Take a pint of white wine vinegar and of sifted wheat bran four ounces. Allow the bran to infuse for four hours, then add the yolks of four eggs and two grains of musk. Apply at night, and when the morning bath has been taken the skin will be bright and polished like ivory.

Delicate skins suffer greatly from sunburn and much inconvenience is experienced if proper treatment is not given. In the first place washes of a cooling and evaporative nature should be applied on cloths, which will require constant changing until the heat is all drawn out of the cuticle. Lime juice or lemon juice. mixed with either milk or cream should be used

during the night to bring the skin back to its normal condition. The cocoa buttermilk, or even plain buttermilk, will be found beneficial where the burn is not severe.

Another remedy for sunburn which can be used in place of the previously described treatment is as follows: Two drams of borax, one dram Roman alum, one dram camphor, half ounce of sugar candy, one pound of ox gall. Mix and stir these well for ten minutes and repeat the stirring three or four times a day for two weeks. When it becomes clear and transparent, strain through blotting paper and bottle for use.

A much simpler prescription is made from the juice of a lemon combined with half a teaspoonful of borax dissolved in an ounce of distilled water. This may be used frequently and steaming the face is advised in order to prevent the sunburn from becoming permanent.

In order to steam the face, take a basin filled with boiling water and drape a towel over the head so as to prevent the steam from escaping when the face is held over the water.

The steaming should be the first treatment, and if the burn is painful a careful rubbing with good cold cream will relieve it.

Freckles are another source of annoyance to inany women.

Buttermilk taken fresh from the churn will sometimes destroy them. It should be spread over the face after the manner of a plaster and allowed to remain on for several hours, if possible. Remove it with warm water and see that the skin is carefully dried. To secure a cure several applications may be necessary.

A famous French prescription for removing freckles is composed of Venice soap, one ounce; lemon juice, half an ounce; oil of bitter almonds, quarter ounce; deliquidated oil of tartar, quarter ounce, and three drops of rhodium oil. Dissolve the soap in the lemon juice and add the two oils. Place in the sun until an ointment results and then add the rhodium. Anoint the face nightly and cleanse in the morning with a mixture of elder flower and

rosewater.

Other simple prescriptions for freckles are lemon juice with salt dissolved in it, or a combination of glycerine and benzine, both of which are to be used after washing the face at night before retiring.

An excellent formula for tan or freckles is made as follows: Four ounces lactic acid, two ounces glycerine, one ounce rosewater. Apply several times a day and supplement with a cream made as per formula: Four ounces almond oil, one ounce each white wax and

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The question of wrinkles is a most serious one to all women sooner or later in life. That they can be dealt with satisfactorily by several methods is a matter of self-congratulation to the sex generally.

The primary cause of wrinkles is the relaxation of the muscles of the face and thickening of the epidermis, combined with decrease of cellular tissue.

The replacement of this cellular issue by artificial means and the strengthening of the facial muscles are fundamental points of treatment.

The outer layers of the skin are, in young and healthy persons, being constantly renewed. While the circulation of the blood remains active, tissue is renewed continually, and the skin performs its work, showing no degeneration in either its functions or appearance. When this machinery becomes clogged the opportunity for the deadly wrinkle to appear occurs. There is but one thing to be done by the person who is particular as to a comely appearance, and that is to fight the intruder by every means known to the dermatologist.

The simplest method of doing this is the application of astringent lotions and creams; the most elaborate is electricity. Massage is a middle means, often successfully employed at a stage when the crowsfeet have got beyond the possible help of the astringent. It is more commonly employed than any other system of rejuvenation.

Facial massage cannot be performed so well by one's self as by another person, and a practical masseur at that; however, with patience and the aid of a mirror, much can be done to subdue the wrinkles.

In manipulating the face a firm and gentle touch is necessary, and the tips of the forefinger and thumb only should be used. The motion of the finger tips is always outward and never receding. For instance, when the wrinkles are on the forehead an upward stroke is necessary, because the contraction of the

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