CALLES ESMERALDA AND ARTES.

53

Isaac & Co., Ferber, Huhn, & Co., Clarke & Co., and Bates, Stokes, & Co.; this last is one of the oldest and most influential houses in the River Plate, being also agents for the Liverpool and Pacific Company's steamers; there is nothing else of interest till you reach General San Martin's statue in the Plaza Retiro.

Calle Esmeralda derives its name from a naval feat of Lord Cochrane's in the port of Callao, 1820. The Women's hospital, in the first block, accommodates 200 patients. In the next is the German Lutheran church. A little further is Mr. Coffin's depot of American machinery and farming implements. At the corner of Calle Cordoba is a handsome mansion and garden, the residence of a Spaniard named Giraldez. Near the Retiro is the residence of the Chilian Consul: this spacious house was built by a wealthy estanciero for his wife, who died immediately after, and on this account he kept it closed up for many years. A new block of houses in English style has been built at the corner of Plaza Retiro.

Calle Suipacha, called after another victory over the Spaniards, has many handsome residences in the first four or five blocks, that of Señor Atucha being the finest. Beside San Miguel church is an old established English seminary, next door to Mr. Lenz, jeweller. At the seventh block we come to a little square called Plaza del Temple, now shabby and old-fashioned,' but it is supposed there was a sword-factory here long ago, to give rise to the name, since «temple» signifies «the temper of a blade.» The rest of this street is ugly till we approach the Socorro: a chapel was first built › at the Socorro by Don Alejandro del Valle, the rebuilding of which in recent times gave rise to a great lawsuit, and here a tasteful row of English houses has been built by Mr. Drabble. Passing the splendid residence of this gentleman, who owns the entire block, we reach the quinta of Mr. Santamaria, and then the princely residence cf the Estrada' family; from this point is obtained a charming view of the river.

(

Calle Artes has little of note except the market and water-works: the former was partially burned in 1862, but was rebuilt; this is one of the highest spots in the city, and therefore chosen for the tank of the waterworks. The church of San Nicolas is at the corner of Corrientes: it was built by Don Francisco Araujo, and the capuchin nuns were first stationed here. The church has been recently decorated anew by the «cura, >> Canon Edward O'Gorman. The Brazilian Legation is at No. 166, and a little further is the Club del Parque. At the end of the street, overlooking the river, is the quinta of Don Lorenzo Torres.

Calle Cerrito and Calle Libertad are comparatively new streets: the latter runs through the Plazas Parque and Libertad, out to the Cinco Esquinas.

1

In this locality are several pretty quintas originally built by Messrs. Whitfield and Klappenbach, and now occupied by English families. The Chevalier Noel keeps the French Legation in the house previously occupied by H.B.M. Minister, Mr. Buckley Mathew. The families of Coghlan, Cardenas, Glover, Harrison, and Kinch have the neighbouring quintas. The other streets running north from Calle Rivadavia are only partly built on. At the corner of Callao and Parque is a large Jesuit college, just finished, and in Calle Rio Bamba, near the corner of Tucuman, is the Irish convent of Mercy.

STREETS RUNNING SOUTH.

Calle Balcarce runs south from Plaza Mayo, by the back of San Francisco and Santo Domingo convents, passing the old Custom-house, the mill of the Andes, and a number of old houses which bear the impress of the early Spaniards.

Calle Defensa is quite an English street, running from the Recoba Vieja to the British Hospital. For several blocks we meet English grocery stores, boot shops, draperies, &c. In the first block are-the British Library; the offices of Wells and Gatliff, brokers; Eastman's drug store; Lindenau's hat shop; James Hill, custom-house broker; C. T. Getting & Co., import and export merchants; Claypole's newspaper agency; Fleming's boot shop; G. Ellis, clothier; Galbraith & Hunter, and A. Fulton & Co., drapers; Keyser's bar room; Davenport & Co. The Irish church of San Roque is at the corner of Potosi, next to that of San Francisco, and lower down is Santo Domingo, At No. 91 in this street Rosas was born; the house belonged to the Ezcurra family. In this same block we find Torres & Barton's drug store, Mr. James White's house, Barry & Walker's grocery, hardware, and drapery stores, and the Porvenir printing-office. In the next cuadra are-Gowland's auction mart, Southron's saddlery, Roncoroni's color and paint shop. Opposite Santo Domingo is the drug store of Signor Demarchi, who is Swiss Consul, and a little lower down are Bell's timber yard and the grocery of Robert Muir & Co. The Black barrack, at the corner of Calle Mejico, is now a Customs deposit, in front of which are Gregory's livery stables. The wooden bridge is an abominable locality: here a torrent runs down in wet weather; in fact, it is an open sewer. San Telmo is on high ground, a little above the Comercio Market; it was built by Padre Blanqui, and in 1815 was made a parish church. Further on is Fair's quinta, so long the residenceof the British

CALLES BOLIVAR AND PERU.

55

Legation, now belonging to Mr. Lowry of Montevideo, and tenanted by Mr. Perry. The ornamental grounds and residence of Don Gregorio Lezama, at the furthest south end, command a fine prospect of the city and roadstead they are said to have cost £50,000 sterling. A terrace of English houses hard by belongs to Mr. Ludlam. The British Hospital crowns the barranca overlooking Barracas and the south.

Calle Bolivar, formerly Santa Rosa, has yet many traces of antiquity. At No. 12 is the residence of General Gelly Obes, formerly a convent; the bones of some of the nuns were found here. In front is a very antique three-story house, and further on is the Nacional office, close to Señor Lezica's handsome residence. In the second block is the College church, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, who were said to have an underground passage from here to the old fort. The architect of the church was Padre Blanqni, and the chief benefactor Don Juan Antonio Costa, date 1722. In November, 1868, the workmen laying down the water pipes found an old well in the middle of the street, opposite Mr. Morta's book-store. In this block are-M. Bonnemason's office, agent for the Marseilles line of steamers, and the millinery shop of Mrs. M'Dougall. At the corner of Calle Moreno is a large building, newly erected, the property of the Anchorena family, and in front is the Patente Office. Lower down is the Supreme Federal Court; then the new house of Dr. Quintana, the Post-office, the Brazilian Consulate, the Lottery Office, and the house of Señor Aldecoa. At the corner of Calle Europa is the brewery of M. Buhler. The street terminates with the Italian Hospital, corner of Caseros, and on the barranca is the quinta of Señor Gonsalez Moreno.

>

Calle Peru.-The first block has the splendid mansions of Molina, Armstrong, Elizalde, Elortondo, and some fine shops. No. 3 is the shop of Mr. Jaeggli, agent for Roskell & Co., watchmakers. At the corner of Victoria is the Club Progreso, a princely edifice built by Señor Munoa, who, like so many others, landed in the country without a shilling. A little further is the office of the Sociedad Rural, or Farmers' Club. At the next corner we come to the Museum and Old Market; there is a kiosk in front of the market, where hack-coaches may be hired cheap. Opposite to the University and Chambers of Legislature is a row of houses belonging to Mr. Armstrong. At the next corner is a steam confectionary. Another block brings us to Don Ricardo O'Shee's office, formerly the residence of the Bishop, and vulgarly called Casa de la Vireyna. Lower down are the office of Peyredieu & Bradley, brokers, and Mr. James Carmen's barraca.

Calle Chacabuco begins at the Club del Plata; it has several commercial offices, viz.: Barbour, Barclay, & Co., Mr. Loog, jeweller, Cohen & Joseph, Stock & Co., Mantels & Pfeiffer, Semple & Co., Dillemann, Landwech, & Desarnaud, and runs by the Old Market, terminating at Mr. Zimmermann's quinta, where the Municipality made several attempts to cut a road down the barranca, but was prevented by the Law Courts.

Calle las Piedras passes by the Scotch Church and the convent of San. Juan. In this street reside Rev. J. Smith, Mr. Parravicini, Austrian Consul; Dr. Terrero, lawyer; Dr. Varela, Minister of Foreign Affairs; Santillan & Co., brokers.

Calle Tacuari has some fine buildings: in the first block is a French school; in the second are the Colegio Griego and Madame Farnesi's seminary, both for young ladies; in the third is Mr. Nicholson's school. At the corner of Independencia is the Concepcion Church. A little chapel was first built here by Don Matias Flores, who subsquently in conjunction with Don Geronimo Pizarro, undertook to erect a parish church on the spot; and eight blocks further we reach the chapel and schools of Santa Catalina, which were founded by bequest of a wealthy citizen, in 1860, and since then the adjoining property has become very valuable, Barde wick's and Prange's barracas are in this neighborhood.

Calle Buen Orden has always been the great highway to the south it runs through the Plazas of Monserrat and Independencia, terminating at the grand Sanitary Institute on the «barranca» overlooking the Calle Larga. Calle Lima is the route taken by the tramway from the Southern Railway terminus into town, passing through the Plaza Constitucion. In this street, are the Ejercicios and the Independencia market; also, the office of Corrales & Wehmann, brokers.

I'

The other streets running south from Rivadavia are hardly worth notice., At the corner of San José and Cochabamba is the new convent school of the French nuns, with a neat chapel. The S. W. suburbs comprise many fine quintas, belonging to the families of Casares, Bunge, Gowland, Crespo, Martinez de Hoz, Aldao, Downes, Diehl, Frias, and Navarro Viola: near the last-named are the Southern Cemetery and the new «mataderos.»>

STREETS RUNNING WEST-NORTH END.

There are thirty-one streets running west from the river side, and we shall begin with those in the north end.

Calle Piedad is the first street parallel with Rivadavia, and one of the great business thoroughfares. In the second block are the offices of

Messrs. Duguid & Co. and Arning, Hutz, & Co. At the corner of Calle Reconquista is the new English Bank. In the third block we find Mr. Fallon's general wholesale and retail store, called the Hibernian House, also the offices of T. Nuttal, of Tomkinson & Co., and Turmeau's grocery. In the fourth block are the famous Swiss Confiteria, Ashworth & Co., Gilmour & Co., Barker, bill broker, Carlyle, Smith, & Co., Gifford Brothers, Drabble Brothers & Co., the Estrella, Bienhechora, and Argentine insurance companies, and Twyford's grocery. Crossing Calle Florida we come to the residence of ex-Governor Saavedra, the public baths, Parlane, Graham, & Co., Khaynach & Co., Kerr & Grierson, J. Brown & Co., Milligan & Williamson. At the corner of Suipacha is San Miguel church. The present church was commenced on St. Michael's day, 1782, and completed six years later it was not consecrated till 21st November, 1784, the curate being Don José Gonzalez Islas, a native of Santiago del Estero six cuadras further is the Piedad church. It was founded by a Portuguese, named Manuel Gomez. Before reaching the Plaza Once de Setiembre we reach the Balvanera, a new and imposing church, attached to which is the college of the Padres Bayoneses; the church was begun. by a Franciscan mendicant friar named Juan Rodriguez, with the intent of establishing a house for missionaries on the Chilian and Peruvian missions; near this is Livingstone's barraca.

agency. The Hotel de la Paix is in fr

f

Calle Cangatlo, formerly called La Merced. In the second block are the Provence Hotel, the American Methodist Church, and Sciurrano's steamboat The Hotel de la Paix is in front of the French theatre, and then come the Ancla Dorada and the excellent coffee-houses called Café de Paris and Café de Catalanes, which are crowded every evening: the best dinners in town may be obtained here. In this block are the offices of Peltzer & Co., Lennuyeux, ship broker, and the clothing stores of Temperley and Parody. At the next corner is the Hotel San Martin, her is the Hotel Sun passing which is the Electric Telegraph office, and then the Mauá Bank: on the other side you see the splendid house and ware-rooms of Fusoni & Maveroff. The picture gallery of Corti & Francischelli is at the corner of Florida. In the next block is the fine new building called Carabassa's Bank. Four cuadras further is the New Market, and crossing Calle Talcahuano we remark a building with Grecian front, the club house of the Italian Benevolent Society.

Calle Cuyo begins at Llavallol's mansion, which is the Roman Consulate, and in the next block are two fashionable houses, the first the residence of Mr. Charles Saguier, the second contains the steamboat agencies of Matti & Piera and the Corrientes Company. At the corner of Esmeralda is a