carbonated wine under the name of champagne. Anybody who wants that kind of wine ought to have it, but it ought to be labeled, so that buyers may know what they are getting. (512.)

Mr. EMERSON desires that producers of carbonated wines be compelled to state on their labels what the bottles contain-whether carbonated champagne or genuine champagne; although, he adds, there is no carbonated champagne really. (503.)

Mr. WHEELER says the makers of true American champagne have no desire to prohibit the making of artificially carbonated wines, but they do want a law which will compel the selling of those wines under their true names and the labeling of them in a way which will indicate their true character. (522.)

Mr. RIPEN would not like to mark his bottles "Carbonated wine," or anything of that sort, lest people should "think it was some medicated stuff." If the carbonated goods were compelled to be marked in this way, and the users of the old process had to mark their wines "Fermented in the bottle," the effect would probably be to injure both kinds of American champagne, and to turn the trade toward the foreign brands. (578.)

Mr. WERNER would object to being compelled by law to mark his wine "Artificially carbonated," because the use of the word "artificial" would lead people to think it an artificial article. "Carbonated wine" would be sufficient. (579.)

X. DISTILLED LIQUORS.

A. Ingredients, distillation, and aging.-Dr. WILEY says the natural way of making whisky is by fermentation of grain, rye and indian corn being the two great sources of our whiskies. After fermentation is completed the mass is subjected to distillation. The product consists of water, common or ethyl alcohol, a series of alcohols known as fusel oil, and, finally, essential oils and ethers. Fusel oil is a term applied to a mixture of alcohols which have a higher boiling point and a more oily consistency than common alcohol. It contains amyl alcohol, butyl alcohol, and various other alcohols. All these distillations contain essential oils, which give the flavor and odor. Crude alcohols distilled in this way are not suitable for drinking. The product is raw whisky, colorless and unpleasant to the taste; hence to make a beverage of it it must be treated so as to improve the taste, and this is called aging. It is put into casks of oak, usually slightly burnt or charred inside. The raw whisky extracts from the wood a little tannin and coloring matter. It is then placed under the influence of oxygen, and the alcohols, under the influence of ferments, begin to oxidize, forming ethers. Alcohol of any kind when oxidized produces an ether. Ethyl alcohol forms sulphuric ether, which produces anesthesia; amyl alcohol forms a different ether, butyl alcohol still another. These ethers are all volatile, producing a pleasant aroma. By oxidation they remove the bad taste and poisonous alcohols from the mixture, so that after several years, instead of an irritating mixture, bad to the taste and smell, there is one which has a delightful odor and taste and is soothing-a whisky fit to drink. (54,55.)

Dr. Wiley says brandy is obtained by distilling wine or fermented grape juice. The pomace left after the expression of the juice has a quantity of grape sugar and the tannic and other qualities peculiar to the grape. When mixed with water and fermented it forms a low-grade wine, which is subjected to distillation, brandy being the product. Genuine brandy has to be aged as whisky is to get the proper flavor and aroma from the alcohols. (56.)

B. Artificial aging of whisky and brandy.-Dr. WILEY says the manufacture of compound or artificial whisky has for its purpose the avoiding of the long and expensive process of aging. The makers begin with a pure spirits made in a few hours by rectifying the high wines of the distillery, the object being to get rid of all the other alcohols and leave only the pure ethyl alcohol. Cologne spirits is one of the trade names for the finest variety of this product. The blending begins with this high-grade alcohol-about 96 per cent alcohol and 4 per cent water. Enough water is added to dilute it to the strength of whisky-about 45 per cent; thus the volume is doubled or more at the start. The next step is to color it brown or reddish. This is done by adding burnt sugar or caramel. The flavorings due to the oxidation of various alcohols are easily made in the chemical laboratory, by oxidizing amyl alcohol and butyl alcohol. (See House Report No. 2601, Fifty-second Congress, second session, pp. 67-74.) Thus in two or three hours a skillful compounder can make a material which looks like, smells like, tastes like, and analyzes like genuine whisky, but has a different effect upon the system. It is more apt to injure the user than the genuine article. The witness can not say that any of the materials used are unwholesome in moderate quantities, being chemically the same as those produced by the natural method

of aging, but there is something lacking. The substitution of artificial for natural products impairs the quality, and there is a difference in effect which the chemical laboratory fails to distinguish. The injury to health produced by a little excess in the use of alcoholic liquors is very much accentuated when these artificial drinks are employed. The witness would class this practice under both forms of adulteration as a fraud, and also as injurious to health, without being able to point out any particular thing that causes the injury. (55, 56.)

Dr. Wiley says there is no way to tell with ease or definitely which samples of whisky are genuine and which are not. It is a rare thing that nothing but pure articles are placed on the market. He has been told that whiskies are generally about two-thirds genuine and one-third mixed. The chemist is therefore at a loss. (54.)

Dr. Wiley has been told by a well-informed gentleman that considerably more than half of the whisky in this country is compounded whisky. A little old whisky is usually mixed with it, but it is often sold as it is-whisky that has no claim to be called whisky and brandy which has never been in contact with the grape. Compounded brandy is made exactly as compounded whisky is. The essence dealer will sell brandy essence or whisky essence; the fraud is the same in both cases. This compounding is not peculiar to this country. Compounded brandy is made in Europe, and the total quantity produced is far in excess of the quantity derived from fermented and distilled grape juice. There is nothing to prevent the importation of these brandies into this country.

Dr. Wiley says nothing against the business of chemical manufacture of whisky and brandy essences and ethers, but considers it a legitimate business. Some perfectly honest, upright gentlemen are engaged in the business, and they do not want these things to get out of their hands to be used for fraudulent purposes. These same manufacturers make the flavoring extracts for soda water. (56, 57.) Professor CHITTENDEN doubts whether chemical analysis alone will always detect a "made" whisky, He thinks it questionable whether an artificial whisky made by essences is as wholesome as a natural whisky made by aging, but he can not answer definitely, because he has no direct knowledge of the effect of some of these essences on the body. (424.)

Mr. O'REILLY, editor of the Liquor Trades Gazette, complains of the selling of new whiskies as fully matured. He does not think any substance deleterious to health is used in the artificial aging of whisky, except possibly for coloring, to imitate the dark color produced by natural aging. For that purpose prune juice is often used; this is not believed to be injurious to health. But even if no injurious substances are used, the selling of new whisky for old is not fair to the honest manufacturer. (461.)

C. Adulteration, blending, and fabrication of whisky.-1. Water and tannin.-Professor CHITTENDEN states that in all the various liquors which he has analyzed in the last five years he has found no well-defined adulteration except the addition of water to whisky. This adulteration seems to be common in some of the lowest grades of saloons. He also found tannin in some of the whiskies which contained a large proportion of water, but whether that was the result of adulteration or of the presence of the product for a long time in bad casks he could not tell. (423.)

2. Bottling whisky in bond-alleged failure of law. Mr. O'REILLY says that there is a United States law under which liquors are bottled in bond, and goods "bottled under that law bear a Government stamp and are 100 proof, absolutely without any adulteration." Mr. O'Reilly thinks that this law is a failure. Very little such liquor is sold at New York, because the people there "do not fancy liquor that is under proof; they prefer something that is about 85 or 90, and in this market there is a preference for blended whisky, consisting of the product of several distilleries blended together." (462.)

3. Liquors without distillation. Mr. O'REILLY submitted a book called "A Treatise on How to Make Liquors without Distillation." Formulas for the manufacture of Scotch whisky from rectified spirits and for the production of a bead upon liquor by the addition of sweet oil and sulphuric acid were read from it. (463.)

D. False labels.-Mr. SADLER, editor of Bonfort's Wine and Spirit Circular, believes that of all the leading brands of imported spirits as they are sold in this country more are spurious than are genuine. The falsification has been greater than ever since the rate of duty has been made very high. The fraudulent spirits are very largely the product of illicit stills, from which the Government derives no revenue whatever. The spirits are put up under counterfeit labels, either facsimiles or such imitations as will deceive the unwary buyer. Sometimes genuine imported bottles are refilled. This is extensively done in saloons where wines and spirits are sold by the drink. In fact, there are comparatively few places

which do not do it. While imported goods, such as Scotch whiskies, brandies, and wines, which have an established reputation, are the greatest sufferers, the practice is not confined to imported goods.

Mr. Sadler believes that, on the assumption that no tax is paid on the spirits thus fraudulently sold under the names of imported brands, the Government lost $6,000,000 a year, which it would receive if the liquors which are sold as imported were actually imported and paid the duty. It is true that a great deal of spirits is sold in this way on which internal-revenue taxes have been paid; in that case the Government loses the difference between the internal-revenue tax and the import duty. (396-398.)

Mr. HOCHSTADTER declares that the statement of Mr. Sadler that $6,000,000 annually is lost to the Government by reason of the imitation of labels by liquor dealers in this country can not be substantiated. (467.)

Mr. CRILLY declares that it is generally believed that Mr. Sadler's estimate of a loss of $6,000,000 per annum to the Government by the refilling of imported bottles and the imitation of foreign labels is an underestimate. (473.)

Mr. O'REILLY presented 33 samples of fraudulent labels, all made in imitation of the labels of one brand of whisky. The proprietors of this brand have been particularly active in prosecuting such frauds. Aside from legal measures, they have resorted to methods of publicity. When they have found a man in a certain town imitating their whisky they have posted large placards informing the public of the fraud. (465.)

E. Proposed label laws.-Dr. WILEY would not favor the prohibition of the manufacture of compounded brandies and whiskies, but would favor a bill requiring them to be plainly marked and stamped by the Government when it stamps the alcohol content. He has been told by a well-informed man that these compounded whiskies do not usually go into the bonded warehouses, but are made and sold directly to the trade. When they are stamped in the first instance with a Government stamp the Government officials could easily see that they are stamped what they really are. Dr. Wiley says that some perfectly honest gentlemen engaged in the manufacture of whisky and brandy essences are as much in favor of the proposed law as he is. They do not want these things to get out of their hands, to be used for fraudulent purposes. They do not like to be participes criminis; they are anxious that their products should continue under their own names until they reach the consumer. (57.)

Mr. SADLER would have Congress enact that any person who sells, or keeps on hand for sale, foreign or domestic wines or liquors under any name other than the proper name or brand known to the trade shall be subject to fine and imprisonment. (397.)

Mr. O'REILLY, editor of, the Liquor Trades Gazette, suggests that in the case of whisky a man need not stamp his entire formula upon the package, as that might involve the revelation of proper trade secrets, but that a reasonable percentage of its ingredients should be named upon the label of every package. (461, 462.)

F. Cordials.-1. Processes of manufacture.-Mr. RHEINSTROM, a distiller of cordials or liqueurs, states that his goods are produced by distillation from herbs, fruits, and cologne spirits, which is a refined or redistilled alcohol, supposed to be free from fusel. His products are self-preservative. Some of his competitors produce goods of similar appearance, without distillation, by the cold process, by the addition of essences. Such goods have to be preserved with antiseptics. (427.) 2. Spurious foreign brands.-Mr. O'REILLY testifies that he knows of only one American house which puts up liqueurs and cordials under its own name. large quantity of these goods is manufactured in the country, but all except the products of this one establishment are put up under foreign names. This is a fraud upon the consumer and it lessens the Government revenue by diminishing imports. (464.)

A

3. Proposed legislation.—Mr. RHEINSTROM considers that the practice of selling goods as distilled which are not distilled, selling goods as made from herbs and fruits which are not made so, selling as pure goods those which contain unwholesome antiseptics, should be stopped by law. (427.)

G. Alcohol in general.-1. Effect on digestion.-Professor CHITTENDEN says that in the living stomach a certain quantity of alcohol increases the flow of the gastric juices, and, though it retards the solvent action, it does not appear, in small quantities, to retard digestion on the whole, but rather appears to stimulate it. Similarly, an after-dinner cup of coffee increases the peristaltic movement of the intestine, and in that way increases the rate of digestion. It does not materially increase or decrease the rate of solvent action. So common salt, in small amount, tends to increase the rate of digestion, while a larger quantity retards it. Alcohol,

and other agents as well, taken in large quantities, produce an inflammation of the mucous membrane of the stomach. (420,421.)

2. Percentages in various liquors.-Dr. WILEY says wines contain from 8 to 22 per cent alcohol, light claret having only about 10 or 12 per cent, port and champagne from 16 to 24 per cent. It is rare for wine to have more than 24 or 25 per cent alcohol, and most have only about 12 per cent. Beers have from 3 to 6 per cent alcohol, and ales, porters, and stouts from 4 to 8 per cent. Distilled liquors have from 40 to 50 per cent alcohol. Rums and gins, etc., run very much higher in alcohol than beers and wines. (54.)

XI. FLAVORING EXTRACTS AND SODA-WATER SIRUPS.

A. Flavoring extracts generally.-Dr. WILEY says that many of the flavoring extracts, such as lemon extracts, used for flavoring food and for flavoring soda water are artificial compositions. (585.)

Professor VAUGHAN says most of the flavoring extracts are artificial, being made from butyric ether and other chemically prepared ethers. He strongly condemns the use of wood alcohol in making these extracts, saying it is poisonous even when pure, and as ordinarily used is a very poisonous substance. (204, 205.) B. Lemon extracts.-Professor MITCHELL, chemist to the Wisconsin dairy and food commission, says that according to the Pharmacopoeia lemon extract, or spirits of lemon, should contain at least 5 per cent pure oil of lemon peel dissolved in deodorized stronger alcohol and colored with lemon peel. Formerly one ounce of oil in a pound of extract was required, and many of the older druggists manufacture a stronger extract than that required by the Pharmacopoeia; the higher-priced extracts contain oil of lemon up to 8 per cent. When the Wisconsin law took effect many of the lemon extracts on the market contained so little oil that when put into water they did not even cloud it. They had just a little of the aroma of lemon, and were highly colored with aniline colors. Stronger alcohol was not used in these extracts, most of the expense of making them being in the alcohol. The alcohol strength ran down from 93 and 94 per cent, which it should be, as low as 13 and 12 per cent in exceptional cases. Oil extracted from ribbon grass grown in the East India islands, which has a rank lemon flavor, was used to flavor these extracts, making them smell quite like lemon extract and taste a little like lemon. Citral obtained from ribbon grass was also added. The chief extracts on the market contained less than one-tenth of 1 per cent of oil of lemon, or one-fiftieth of the amount they should have. (127-129.)

C. Vanilla substitutes. According to Professor MITCHELL, the Pharmacopoeia requires vanilla extract to be made with 10 per cent of vanilla beans, and alcohol and water, without coloring matter. This would make quite an expensive extract and a very strong one. Vanilla extracts are very hard to control. There are many substitutes for vanilla which in themselves are good flavoring substitutes, but much cheaper, much inferior, and perhaps somewhat injurious. The natural flavor in the vanilla bean is largely due to a crystalline substance called vanillin, which can be made artificially. It was first made from a layer between the bark and the wood of the willow, and is made from similar sappy layers in other trees. Finally, processes were found for making it from oil of cloves, the eugenol of which can be readily converted into this substance. Vanilla beans have other substances that lend form and body, but vanillin is a valuable flavoring substance in itself. The tonka bean is also used as a substitute. This is a very aromatic brown bean, formerly used for flavoring and scenting snuff, and gives a strong flavoring substance. Its flavor is due largely to cumarin, which is also made artificially from coal tar products. Cumarin causes dizziness and headache, and has marked poisonous effects when used in large quantities. Almost all the cheaper grades of vanilla extracts contain cumarin, either natural or artificial. They are almost all colored, sometimes with brown sugar. After the Wisconsin officers became able to detect the caramel color readily, the manufacturers had to get a coloring matter harder to detect, and began to use prune juice. (129, 131.)

Professor Mitchell thinks vanilla substitutes should not be sold as the genuine article, but are permissible if they can be controlled. (119.)

D. Soda-water sirups.-Professor MITCHELL says sirups used in soda fountains are mixtures of various chemical ethers with sirup, generally colored. They are not made from fruit except in a few instances. The Wisconsin officials have ruled that where a fruit flavor could be made from the substance itself, as lemon or vanilla, they would not permit the artificial; but where an extract from the substance itself could not be commercially made which would produce the characteristic flavor or aroma, as in the case of strawberry, banana, or pineapple, they have permitted the sale of the artificial. (134.)

Dr. WILEY says the flavoring extracts for soda water-apple, peach, and banana-are made by the same manufacturers who make whisky and brandy essences. Chemists having found out that these flavors are due to the presence of ethers which are cheaply made, the flavor of apple or peach is easily produced by fermentation and oxidization of the resulting alcohol. The flavor of the banana is one of the most abundant of synthetic ethers, amyl acetate, made of amyl alcohol, the most abundant alcohol in fusel oil. When a bottle of this substance is opened in a room the whole place will seem to be stocked with bananas. Almost every flavor nature produces, including even musk, has been imitated in a chemical laboratory. These flavors are sold for flavoring extracts and other purposes. It is unusual to get a pure fruit flavor at a soda fountain; the chances are 5 to 1 that a customer will get one of these ethers colored to imitate pure fruit flavor. They are much more convenient and cheaper to handle. They do not ferment and will keep forever. They are not injurious to health in minute quantities, but are not as good as the pure fruit, which adds to the flavor, although the real essence which gives the flavor is the same in both. The artificial essence, to Dr. Wiley's taste, is flat and not palatable. (57, 58, 585.)

Mr. JACKSON, a representative of the Association of Fruit Growers and Fruit Dealers, says that he has collected some 400 samples of pretended fruit sirups, and has had many of them analyzed, with astonishing results. Under the new law of New York, which prohibits the selling or giving of compounds with false representations as to their composition, some 48 arrests have recently been made. In many cases Mr. Jackson has found a cheap grade of oil of lemon mixed with tartaric acid. He has found such goods even in many drug stores. A compound which was sold for pure lemon juice was offered, according to Mr. Jackson, at 5 gallons for 20 cents, although it would take almost 5 boxes of lemons at $3 a box to make such a quantity of genuine juice. The fraudulent sales of the maker of this particular compound have been stopped by the threat of proceedings under the law. Some of the soda sirups are dyed with aniline. Such practices are a fraud upon the purchaser and are injurious to the growers of fruit and the dealers in it. The fruit men do not want to drive anybody out of business, but they want things to be properly marked. They want everybody who manufactures sirups to be compelled to show the real contents of every bottle on its label. (473-475.) Mr. DUFF has found soda-water sirups in which the sweetening was produced by saccharin and not sugar, and the color by aniline dyes. He did not find enough dye to be injurious to health if one glass of soda water were taken; but he would not say what might not result from the continuous use of such materials. (498.) Professor JENKINS says temperance drinks are extensively colored with aniline dyes and flavored with artificial flavors. He has found dye enough in one glass of soda water to dye a piece of flannel 4 inches square a very brilliant aniline color. (453.)

Mr. WILLIAM S. EDWARDS, a dealer in mineral water, has found that a great many substances said to be poisonous are used in coloring soda-water sirups. (238.)

E. Artificial mineral waters.-Mr. MINOR, a dealer in carbonic-acid gas, asserts that it is the common opinion among the best physicians of New York that artificial mineral water, when the composition is known, is better than a natural water, as to which you do not know what you are getting from time to time. The carbonic-acid gas with which artificial waters are charged is not commonly made by the use of sulphuric acid. Not more than 2 makers use it out of 12 with whose processes Mr. Minor is familiar. Some manufacturers of mineral water manufacture their own carbonic acid from adullomite. (575, 576.)

XII. COLORING MATERIALS.

A. In general.-Dr. WILEY says a cook who understands his business seeks to produce not only a palatable dish, but one which will appeal to the senses through the eye. This has a physiological importance, the sight of food in attractive colors starting the flow of digestive juices, so that the digestion is speedier and more perfect. As many foods in the course of preservation tend to lose their natural colors, the manufacturers seek to restore or preserve them, especially in the case of green goods, such as peas, beans, cucumbers, etc., the green of which is fixed by chemicals; otherwise the chlorophyll would turn to xanthophyll, and the product would lose its appetizing appearance, becoming yellow or tawny. The substances used for fixing chlorophyll are poisonous, being principally zinc and copper compounds, but the amount necessary is very small, and most healthy stomachs would suffer no discomfiture from the ordinary quantity. With many people, however, the least possible amount upsets the digestion, so that if these materials are present, this fact should be stamped on the package. (42.)