taste or odor. Both pigs and cattle are examined by Government inspectors, before and after killing, so that diseased animals are excluded. England, France, Germany, Holland, and other foreign countries where butterine is manufactured more extensively than in the United States depend entirely upon American packers for oleo oil and neutral.

The ingredients of butterine are churned together for 30 minutes in large steel churns. The butterine, which is then in a liquid state, is chilled by passing through ice water, thoroughly worked to get the moisture out, and packed in tubs and The law requires, besides plain marking of the packages, a record of every pound of material used and a record of every sale, giving the amount, and the name and address of the purchaser.

cases.

Butterine is colored with Wells-Richardson improved butter color, which is used almost exclusively by every creamery man in the United States. The salt is the celebrated Ashton brand, imported from England. The cream, milk, and butter are the best that can be bought, and especial attention is given to the handling of the cream and milk. All the apparatus used in the manufacture is kept scrupulously clean. All vats, trucks, tables, molds, and floors are thoroughly scrubbed with hot water once or twice a day. Each tub is steamed and scrubbed in hot water before being used. None of the laborers are allowed to use tobacco while at work. (322-324.)

Mr. PIRRUNG, a manufacturer of butterine, states that he buys all his oleo oil and neutral from the packing houses. Oleo oil is obtained from the caul fat of beef, and looks much like yellow butter. It is shipped by the packers in new tierces. The packers never use a secondhand tierce for it. The neutral is made from the leaf of the pig, and is nut-like in taste and positively neutral in odor. These two ingredients are the basis of the oleomargarine or butterine. They are churned in a steel or tin churn, run through cold water, worked in a butter worker, and wrapped in new cloth or parchment-paper packages. The Government prescribes that all oleomargarine must be put up in new wooden packages and branded with the word "Öleomargarine," in letters 1 inch high, with the name and location of the factory and the gross and net weight. The only ingredients are the oleo oil or beef fat, the neutral or pork fat, milk, cream, salt, and coloring. The color is made from the annatto bean. It is a purely vegetable product, and no chemical dyes are used. (313-315.)

Mr. DADIE, general manager of the William J. Moxley Butterine Company, says that this company buys its oleo oil from the packers, but makes it neutral. It formerly used butter in making all grades of butterine, but found it too hard to It now uses milk and cream in the cheaper grades, get butter for the purpose. though butter is still used in the best. Its butterine is colored with the WellsRichardson improved butter color, which is used by creamery men generally. (325,326.)

Mr. JELKE, general manager of Braun & Fitts, states that this corporation makes more oleomargarine than any other establishment in America. It does not use any cotton-seed oil. It considers that vegetable oil can not carry the butter flavor. Mr. Jelke believes that all the other butterine manufacturers use more or less cotton-seed oil in the lower grades. It is entirely wholesome. No preservative or chemical of any kind except salt is used in the witness's factory. The wholesomeness of the product is attested by the fact that Mr. Jelke uses it on his own table, and that the men in the factory, who know the whole process of manufacture, use it in their families. (332, 333.)

Mr. POTTER, manager of the butterine department of Swift & Co., and Mr. THOMPSON, manager of the butterine department of the G. H. Hammond Company, give testimony precisely similar to that of other manufacturers with regard to the materials used in the manufacture and the cleanliness of the process. (335,337.)

Professor MITCHELL knows of no way by which tallow from refuse or from dead animals picked up on the street can be distinguished from the tallow from healthy animals, except by its general odor and appearance. The oils used in the better grade of food products are carefully kept from becoming tainted and rancid. The price of the product is lessened rapidly if tainted oils are used. (127.)

2. Wholesomeness.-Dr. WILEY testifies that from a nutritive point of view all the fats and oils used as food have nearly the same value as heat producers. Butter fat has a heat value of a little more than 9,000 calories per gram, while the beef fat of oleomargarine has a slightly higher heat value; but the butter fat is a little more easy of digestion, so that there is practically no difference in the value of the two fats in the human economy. Cotton-seed oil has practically the same heat value as oleomargarine, and is probably a little easier of digestion. Dr. Wiley considers mixtures of animal fats and vegetable oils to be perfectly

wholesome, but objects to the payment of fancy prices by persons in straitened circumstances who suppose they are getting butter when they are not. (14, 16.) Mr. MARC DELAFONTAINE regards oleomargarine as substantially similar to butter in its chemical constituents, but not identical with butter. He thinks it equally wholesome. The manufacturers are bound to use the very best grades of fats or else the article will not sell. Anything inferior would be either rancid or bad to the taste. He does not think the best butterine equal to the best butter, but says there are grades of butter which are inferior to very good or average butterine. (231.)

Mr. HOBBS, editor of the National Provisioner, says: "In our analyses we find that the legitimate butter compounds are healthy in themselves; that is, they are free from deleterious substances; they are made of animal and vegetable fatssome of them, the best quality of them-and are sold as such." (496.)

Mr. DUFF, chemist of the New York Produce Exchange, regards butterine and oleomargarine, made from perfectly good material under Government supervision," as legitimate products. (500.)

Professor CHITTENDEN regards the oleomargarine industry as perfectly legitimate, but thinks that oleomargarine should be labeled to show what it really is, and that dealers should be compelled to sell it under its proper name. (423.)

Professor MALLET says that oleomargarine is a good and wholesome food, and in some cases, as on long sea voyages, it is used in preference to butter. But it ought not to be called butter or sold as such. (556.)

Mr. STERNE read the following extract from the Scientific American:

"In everyday life butter is very essential. Its free use by sufferers from wasting diseases is to be encouraged to the utmost, in so far as it can be borne. All this seems very simple, but, unfortunately, an excess of butter diet, even in a healthy organism, is likely to give rise to butyric dyspepsia, and butyric fermentation is set up largely through the presence of a ferment, a residuum left by the buttermilk.

"Considering the foregoing, it seems strange that oleomargarine has not been thought of as a palatable and suitable article of diet for those suffering from wasting diseases. It is free from all objections, despite the idle and malicious tales spread by parties interested in securing higher prices for inferior and unwholesome products. Were the truth fully realized by all classes, bad butter would find no market; but, unfortunately, the majority of the people have no comprehensive idea as to what oleomargarine practically is.

"The resulting product, as a matter of fact, is a better and purer butter than nine-tenths of the dairy product that is marketed, and one that is far more easily preserved. There are a large number also who imagine that oleomargarine is made from any old scraps of grease, regardless of age or cleanliness, which is quite the reverse of the fact; indeed, a good oleo' can only be had by employing the very best and freshest of fat. This artificial butter' is as purely wholesome (and perhaps even better as food) as the best dairy or creamery product." (222, 223.)

Mr. MILLER introduced in connection with his testimony opinions said to have been given by Professor Caldwell, of Cornell University; Professor Atwater, of Wesleyan University; Professor Schweitzer, of Missouri State University: Professor Barker, of the University of Pennsylvania; Professor Johnson, of Yale University; Dr. Ames, of the United States Navy, and Professor Jolles, of Vienna. Professor Caldwell says that the process of making butterine, when properly conducted, is cleanly, and that the product possesses no qualities whatever that can make it in the least degree unwholesome. Professor Atwater says that butterine is perfectly wholesome and has a high nutritious value. Professor Schweitzer states that careful physiological experiments reveal no difference whatever in palatability and digestibility between butter and the brand of butterine which he has examined. Professor Barker considers butterine quite as valuable a nutritive agent as butter. Professor Johnson says that for all ordinary and culinary purposes it is the full equivalent of good butter made from cream. He regards the manufacture of oleomargarine as a legitimate and beneficent industry. Professor Jolles says that pure butterine or oleomargarine is as digestible and nutritive as pure butter. Dr. Ames declares that the manufacture of butterine in properly constructed factories is much cleaner than the manufacture of butter, and that he has found the factories at Kansas City nearly perfect in that respect. He says: "It should be more generally used, and not looked upon as an inferior article and makeshift for butter, when it is really superior." (348-350.)

Mr. PIRRUNG, a maker of butterine or oleomargarine, says he has read that 60 per cent of the higher-grade dairy cows of Illinois, such as Holsteins and Jerseys,

have tuberculosis. Every beef cow which goes to any prominent packing house has to pass Government and State inspection. Dairy cows are not inspected in any such way. Beef products, such as go into oleomargarine, are much more likely to be wholesome, in Mr. Pirrung's opinion, than dairy products. It is true that milk is used in oleomargarine, but it is pasteurized. The food commissioners of the several States have never attempted to show that oleomargarine contains anything deleterious. The present food commissioner of Ohio has repeatedly examined the products of Mr. Pirrung's factory, and so have his predecessors. They have said that they would prefer butterine to what they term ordinary butter. Oleomargarine is superior to butter in keeping qualities, partly because all the ingredients are cooked. If it is properly made it can never get rancid, though it may lose its flavor. (314, 316, 339, 340.)

Mr. Pirrung declares that it is utterly impossible to make butterine out of putrid or rancid fats. He defies anyone to say that he has ever seen or even heard of a piece of rancid butterine. And on the other hand, he has heard it stated that rancid butter is absolutely poisonous. Mr. Pirrung asserts that for about eight months in the year butterine sells for more than the average grades of butter. If butterine were as cheap and as ill-made as a large amount of the poor butter on the market it would find no sale. (318, 321.)

Mr. BROADWELL, as a dealer in butter and oleomargarine, says that the finest of creamery butter turns strong in two or three days, as most people keep it in their pantries, and they bring it back and say, "This is oleomargarine." It will not keep even in ice boxes, while a pail of oleomargarine will last a month in warm weather. The cream and butter put into the higher grades of oleomargarine make it sweeter and nicer, but the inferior quality will keep longer; the more cream there is the shorter time it will keep. Dealers are not allowed now to use the word "butterine;" the name was changed to oleomargarine to avoid deception. A certain class of people would not ask outright for oleomargarine. (158166.)

3. Sale as butter.-a. Affirmed.-Professor FREAR states that the sale of oleomargarine as butter was found "pretty common" in Pennsylvania. (529.)

Mr. HOBBS, editor of the National Provisioner, says that there is a disposition on the part of some tradespeople to remove the labels from food products, and even to transfer an article from its own package into another. He has himself visited a place where oleomargarine is put into a butter package and labeled creamery butter. Oleomargarine is a legitimate article of commerce, but an 18-cent article ought not to be sold under the name of a 25-cent article. (495, 496.) Mr. KNIGHT read circular letters from manufacturers of butterine, one of which offered certain brands "in plain wrappers." Another advised dealers to push the sale of "the only high-grade" butterine, "and build up a reputation for good butter." Another said: "Your profit will be double the amount made from the butter you are now handling, and your butter trade will be more satisfied if you will sell them such butterine as you can buy from me." Another offered butterine of various colors to be selected from a color card, mentioning the difference in the color of butter at different seasons. (146-149.)

Mr. Knight submitted to the committee 4 packages of oleomargarine bought in Chicago stores for creamery butter. The first was not stamped: the second and third were marked oleomargarine, but the marks were concealed by folding; on the fourth the word "oleomargarine" was printed on the inside of the package. (139-141.)

b. Denied.-Mr. CLIFF, at whose store the unmarked package of oleomargarine submitted by Mr. Knight was purchased, says the instructions of the house are that every piece of paper used on oleomargarine shall be plainly marked. If a customer asked for creamery butter, he would not knowingly sell him butterine. He has in his store the Government sign, and the sign" Butterine department." (154, 155.)

Mr. POLLAK, at whose store one of the packages of oleomargarine submitted by Mr. Knight was purchased, says he does not furnish oleomargarine to persons who call for creamery butter. He paid 13 cents a pound for the oleomargarine and sold it for 18 cents a pound. (152.)

Mr. BROADWELL, a dealer in butter, oleomargarine, and cheese, from whom one of the packages of oleomargarine submitted by Mr. Knight was purchased, says he believes that his men put the stamp on the package plainly. He explains his custom with reference to the sale of oleomargarine as follows: "When a man says I want strictly A1 pure butter,' we show him pure butter, and if it is good enough for him he buys it. If it is not, we show him something else. If he prefers this oleomargarine in preference to the pure butter, we give him that. We tell him to taste it, and if it suits him he pays us for it, and if it doesn't suit

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him he gets out. We have pure butter and butterine also, and if a man will taste of both and prefers this in preference to pure butter, that is what he wants. They don't want any butterine, but if we let them taste of it, and ask them, ‘Does that suit you? they say, 'Yes.' Then they take it home and become steady customers." The oleomargarine is taken out of the original stamped package before the customer's eyes. A man who pays 15 or 18 cents knows what he is getting, because he knows he would have to pay 20 or 25 cents for A1 butter. Some millionaires would buy oleomargarine. (158-166.)

Mr. SOMES, of Chicago, a dealer in butter, eggs, and cheese, says the majority of people come in and want oleomargarine or butterine, but they say "Give me some butter." He thinks the majority of his customers understand that they are getting butterine or oleomargarine. For a long time he stamped his packages all on the outside, and his customers would say, "What is this? I don't want this. Give me another wrapper.' They did not want to carry it along the street with a sign on, and to accommodate them it was necessary to put on another wrapper. Then the agents of the butterine people advised him that if he stamped his paper that was all that was required. The majority of people want butterine and do not want a sign on it so that everybody knows they are buying butterine. Witness thinks the reason that they buy it is because it is the only thing they can get that is sweet and good. The price of butterine runs from 15 to 18 cents. (151, 152.)

Mr. STERNE says he has been out of the oleomargarine business for 10 or 12 years, but has had oleomargarine on his table every day since then. In the district where he lives there are 35 grocery stores, every one of which has a butterine or oleomargarine sign. He thinks there is practically no deception in the sale of oleomargarine by retail grocers, though there are some dishonest people in every line of business. Hundreds of people send to the factories for 10-pound packages of oleomargarine, but do not go to the grocery store for fear it will be found out that they are using oleomargarine. (225, 226.)

Mr. PIRRUNG denies that the trade in oleomargarine is a secret trade. He presented samples of cards advertising butterine, of one of which he asserted that more than 5,000,000 had been printed and circulated in the United States, and of another of which 2,000,000 had been used within the past year. Fabulous amounts have been spent, according to Mr. Pirrung, to advertise this product and bring it prominently before the people of the United States. (319, 320.)

Mr. Pirrung declares that he does not know of a single instance in which a consumer has himself charged that butterine has been sold fraudulently for butter. The charge has always been brought by persons selfishly interested in destroying the manufacture and sale of oleomargarine. (338.)

Mr. DADIE says that this company has devoted a great deal of attention to advertising its products. It has distributed probably 500 large posters in Chicago alone, saying, "Ask your grocer for Moxley's high-grade butterine." These posters are about 10 or 20 feet in size. Every package of butterine is marked with the word "Oleomargarine," as required by law. The company also puts up butterine in 1-pound and 2-pound prints, and puts the word oleomargarine on them. The company advises its customers to comply with all Federal legislation. Mr. Dadie admits that the company is fighting some State laws, and that if anyone attempts to persecute its customers it will defend them. (326-328.)

Mr. POTTER, manager of the butterine department of Swift & Co., says that this concern puts up butterine both in wooden packages and in 1-pound prints. Not only the large package, but every printed wrapper, when the form of prints or rolls is used, has the word "Oleomargarine" printed plainly on it. Referring to the statement that manufacturers of butterine guarantee protection to dealers who sell butterine as butter, Mr. Potter denies that Swift & Co. have ever made any promises of that character, and asserts that it is their policy to sell the product strictly on its merits, and to create legitimate demand for it; and that they use all their influence to have it sold for what it is. (336.)

Mr. THOMPSON, manager of the butterine department of the G. H. Hammond Company, asserts that this company has never encouraged or defended the retail dealers in selling butterine as butter, and will not protect them in it. When it puts up the goods in printed wrappers the wrappers bear the word "Oleomargarine." (338.)

Mr. MILLER declares that his company has spent as much as $25,000 a year in advertising its butterine. Its billheads read " Butterine," and it puts up large advertising signs. There is nothing secret about the marketing of its goods. Mr. Miller says that butterine is demanded because it is an article of merit, and is sold for what it is worth. In the summer many people buy it who can not afford to have ice boxes. It keeps where butter would not. (324.)

Mr. JELKE, general manager of Braun & Fitts, oleomargarine manufacturers, declares that the belief of his concern is that the interests of the butterine manufacturers will be best served by having the goods sold to the consumer for what they are, and letting the consumer know what he is buying. Braun & Fitts send out thousands of circulars, pamphlets and cards to advertise their product. (333.) Mr. STERNE, a commission merchant who buys materials for oleomargarine makers, declares that he is very close to these manufacturers, and that he believes that their earnest efforts are directed to creating a demand for butterine rather than for butter. (342.)

Mr. ADAMS, speaking from an experience of 4 years in administering the dairyfood laws of Wisconsin, says that while the wholesalers and jobbers of oleomargarine know what they are selling, and the retailers and keepers of boarding houses and restaurants know what they are buying, the boarders in boarding houses and cheap restaurants do not know what they are buying when they call for butter and get butterine. The butterine is finally consumed for butter, and could not be sold if it were not colored in imitation of yellow butter. (208.)

4. Effect on the price of cattle, etc.-Mr. STERNE, a commission merchant, believes that the demand for the fats used in making oleomargarine has raised the price of cattle and hogs throughout the Union, although the production of butterine is only about 6 per cent as great as the production of butter. (341.)

5. Coloring matter (See also Coloring materials, p. 91.)-a. In butter.-Mr. KNIGHT says that in the flush of the season there is very little, if any, coloring matter used in butter, but that in the winter butter is almost universally colored, solely for uniformity. He does not think this is a deception at all. Consumers do not want butter white at one time and yellow at another; but butter shipped to England must be as white as it can be made. (141-143.)

Mr. PIRRUNG says that 25 years ago butter was of all kinds of colors, but now it is universally colored artificially. The object is the same as the object of coloring fine confections; namely, to make the product more pleasing to the eye and so more acceptable to the taste. (317.)

b. In oleomargarine.-Mr. KNIGHT says that 33 States have enacted anticolor laws, but in the face of all this State legislation, the production of oleomargarine has doubled in one year, because it is of such a deceptive character that it is absolutely impossible to keep track of it after it leaves the manufacturer. He says there is absolutely no way of compelling the sale of oleomargarine as such as long it is permitted to be colored in imitation of butter. He speaks of a raid among the retailers in Philadelphia in which 100 dealers were found to be selling oleomargarine without licenses. The Government was actually losing revenue through failure to identify the article. Mr. Knight says there is no such thing as selling uncolored oleomargarine. No one ever saw it except in a few places where it has been experimented with, and people would not consume it if they knew it was oleomargarine. (139, 141.)

Mr. Knight says that the Supreme Court of the United States has twice held that it is a deception to color some other kind of compound to resemble butter. (145.)

Mr. PIRRUNG says the highest court of Michigan has recently decided that the law forbidding coloring whereby damage or inferiority is concealed or whereby the product is made to appear better than it is can not be made to apply to oleomargarine, because it is not colored for these purposes. (317.)

Mr. Pirrung declares that in his experience of 12 years he has never found an instance in which a chemist has brought into court, in the trial of a butterine case, the actual coloring matter extracted from a sample for the inspection of the court and the jury. (339.)

Mr. MILLER denies that butterine is colored to resemble butter. According to him, when his company began to make butterine in 1881 it gave its product a high color; but this was not to imitate butter, because very little butter was then colored. "In the winter it was almost white; in the summer it was a light yellow or natural grass color. Since the advent of butterine the creamery men have found it necessary to imitate it." (324.)

Mr. STERNE says the object of coloring oleomargarine is to make it attractive to the eye, as in the case of butter; not particularly to make it resemble the highest grade of butter. The popular butter is a bright yellow color, and the more perfectly yellow the butter and butterine makers make their product the more quickly it is sold. (223, 224.)

Mr. BROADWELL says that if oleomargarine were colored pink, not a pound of it could be sold; it has to resemble butter. Coloring it pink would raise the price of pure butter to 40 and 50 cents a pound. (166.)

6. Legislation-a. In Wisconsin. Mr. ADAMS says the law of Wisconsin, which