the bodies of those who had suffered martyrdom were landed when brought to the island for interment. Exactly opposite Iona is the Ross of Mull, composed entirely of granite. The two islands are divided by the Sound of Iona, which is about a mile wide.

sea.

The route back to Oban is round the south of Mull, and through the Torrin Rocks. Dubhheartach Lighthouse can be seen at a distance of 16 miles. The reef called the Torrins stretches to St John's Rock, on which the lighthouse is built. Clearing these rocks, and rounding Ardanalish Point, we get under the headlands of Mull; the first and most prominent, being the highest, is called Gorry's leap, rising almost perpendicular from the We next reach the Carsaig Arches, a formation very similar to Staffa. After passing the Arches, we may get sight of the Nun's Cave, which abounds with valuable geological specimens, and fossils of many kinds. We are now at Carsaig Bay, where the steamer usually stops. Leaving this we reach Lochbuy, at the head of which can be seen the old and new castles of Lochbuy. From Lochbuy Head, the steamer leaves the Mull Coast, shaping for the Sound of Kerrera, returning into Oban Bay by the opposite direction to which it left in the morning.

ROUTE 23.

OBAN TO INVERNESS BY THE CALEDONIAN CANAL.

(The Steamer leaves Oban daily at 7 a.m. and arrives at Inverness about 5.30 p.m.)

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EAVING Oban, we at once enter Loch Linnhe. On the left is the island of Lismore (Great Garden), on the extremity of which is the lighthouse, and beyond it the Sound of Mull, with Duart Castle. On our right Loch Etive, with Dunstaffnage Castle; and in the background of mountains, Ben Cruachan, with his twin peaks. Two miles from Dunstaffnage and Loch Etive is the Cataract of Connel (Ossian's Falls of Lora). The bed of the loch here contracts till it is only 200 yards broad, and being interrupted by an extensive ridge of sunken rocks, the tides (which rise about 14 feet) rush with tremendous force through the narrow channel. On the shore of Ardmuchnish Bay, about a couple of miles from Connel, are the two remarkable eminences, Dunmacsniocharan-Dur, Bail-an-righ, said to be the site of Berigonium, the Pictish capital of Scotland.

At the foot of Cruachan, Loch Etive goes to the left for 13 miles, till it approaches within 5 miles of Glencoe. The tower on our right is Loch Nell Observatory, and on the other side of the hill are the ruins of Loch Nell Castle. We now pass on the right the entrance to Loch Creran, close by the island of Eriska, and see on Lismore, Tirefuar Castle, an ancient Scandinavian watchtower.

We now reach Aird's Pier, APPIN, where there is a ferry to Lismore. Leaving Appin, we see on the left Sheep Island, on which are limestone quarries, and on the right Barriemore House. Stalker Castle, situated on a rocky islet, now comes in sight. This Castle belonged to the once powerful family of the Stewarts of Appin, and was occupied by King James the Sixth, when on his hunting expeditions. The island in front is Shuna, with the ruins of Shuna Castle a little to our right. Rounding Shuna, we have on our left the mountains of Morven, Kingairloch, and Ardgour, on the right the hills of Appin, and straight ahead, we get the first sight of Ben Nevis. Less than an hour after leaving Appin, we pass on the right Ardsheal House, once one of the seats of the Stewarts of Appin. This family warmly espoused the cause of the Stuarts in the rebellion of 1745, and their estates were confiscated, but were restored about 1770. We now enter Loch Leven, and in a few minutes arrive at BALLACHULISH PIER, where passengers land who intend to drive up GLENCOE. The view here, looking either east or west, is at sunset very fine. Passing through the narrows, we soon enter Loch Aber, and arrive at ARDGOUR PIER. Fifteen minutes afterwards we come in sight (on the left) of Conaglen, the seat of the Earl of Morton. Close to the shore near here, is the rock on which Glengarry was killed in 1828, by rashly leaping overboard from the stranded steamer Stirling Castle. We

have now, on the right, another view of Ben Nevis, while in front lies the Great Glen, through which the Caledonian Canal runs; and in a few minutes we arrive at FORT WILLIAM. This town has been at different periods of its

history called Gordonsburgh, Duncansburgh, and Maryburgh. Of late years its appearance has been very much improved by new houses and villas, and it has several good hotels. The Fort, situated at the east end, was originally built by General Monk, in the time of Oliver Cromwell, to overawe the Highlanders, and was re-erected, but on a smaller scale, by William III. It withstood sieges during the rebellions of 1715 and 1745, and was garrisoned until 1864, when the Government sold it to Mrs Cameron Campbell of Monzie, the superioress of the town. Leaving Fort William, we notice on the right the ruins of Inverlochy Castle, a large quadrangular structure, with massive round towers at each angle. Tradition says that it was at one time a royal palace, and that King Achains here signed a treaty with Charlemagne. Inhabited afterwards by Banquo, Thane of Lochaber, it subsequently passed into the possession of the Comyns. The plain, near the Castle, was in 1646 the scene of a sanguinary conflict between the Marquis of Montrose and the Marquis of Argyll. Argyll was defeated with a loss of 1500 men, and had to seek safety on board his vessels anchored in Camus-nagael Bay on the opposite shore. Neptune's Staircase a series of locks between Corpach and Banavie-is now visible, and after threading our way among the islands at the entrance of Loch Eil. which stretches for 10 miles through the glen on our left, and passing an obelisk erected to the memory of Col. John Cameron K.T.S., who fell at Quatre Bras, we arrive at CORPACH. (Omnibuses convey passengers to BANAVIE [Lochiel Arms Hotel], and as all luggage which has been properly labelled is forwarded

by vans, passengers do not require to look after it.) Banavie is a most convenient centre for making excursions to the following places, all of which are well worthy of a visit :Prince Charles' Monument, Glenfinnan, and Loch Sheil; Ben Nevis and Glen Nevis, where there is a fine waterfall. The steamer for Inverness starts from Banavie about 10 A.M., but it is desirable that passengers should be ready to leave the hotel at 9.40, so as to enable them to walk with ease the short distance to the steamer.

Soon after leaving, we see, at the foot of the mountain at Torlundy, Inverlochy House, the residence of Lord Abinger. There was great difficulty in making the part of the canal that lies between Banavie and Gairlochy, owing to the streams that so frequently fall from the west side into the Lochy. Sluices had to be made through the solid rock to convey these waters under the canal to the river, and the bed of the Lochy had to be raised 12 feet from its own natural bed. Tor Castle is a ruin on the west bank of the Lochy, not far from the Canal. It was at one time the residence of a chieftain of the clan Macintosh, from whom the Camerons took it. (The first of the chain of lochs linked together by the Canal is Loch Lochy. It is 10 miles long, with an average breadth of a mile.) The lands on the west side belong to Cameron of Lochiel, whose seat is Achnacarry House, a modern building, standing near the ruins of the old Castle, burnt by the "red soldiers in 1746. Near the house is the river Arkaig.

On the east side of Loch Lochy, Glenfintaig House is seen, and near it Glengloy House. At Kinloch-Lochy, in 1544, a battle was fought between the Frazers

and Macdonalds, which got the name of "Blar-na-leine,' or, "The Battle of the Shirts," because, from the heat of the day, the combatants stripped to their shirts in the melee, in which the Frazers were nearly all destroyed. LAGGAN, about a mile from Kinloch-Lochy, adjoins a cut of the Canal. Loch Oich commences three-quarters of a mile from Laggan, and is 3 miles long, and a furlong in breadth; it has some pretty islets, and is surrounded by magnificent scenery. Near the south-west extremity of Loch Oich is a monument representing seven human heads, known by the name of "Tobar na 'n ceann," or, "The Well of Heads," and having the following inscription in four languages :

As a Memorial

of the ample and summary
Vengeance

Which, in the swift course of
Feudal Justice,

Inflicted by the orders of

The Lord Macdonnell and Aross, Overtook the perpetrators of the foul Murder

of

The Keppoch Family,

A branch of

The powerful and Illustrious
Clan

Of which His Lordship was
The Chief,

This Monument is erected by
Colonel Macdonnell of Glengarry,
XVII. Mac-mhic Alastair,
His Successor and Representative,
In the year of our Lord,
1812.

The Heads of the Seven Murderers
Were presented at the feet of
The Noble Chief
In Glengarry Castle,
After having been washed
In this Spring;
And ever since that event,
Which took place early in
The Sixteenth Century,
It has been known by
The name of
"Tobar-nan-ceann."

or

"The Well of Heads."

The deed which this pile commemorates was as follows :-Keppoch sent his two sons to France to be educated, and in their absence he died, leaving the management of the estate to seven kinsmen. On the returns of the sons of the chief, their ruthless kinsmen murdered them, and took possession of their land. The Bard of Keppoch went to urge Glengarry to vengeance, and this monument tells in graphic story the result of this terrible revenge."

At Invergarry, at the mouth of the glen of that name, is the ruin of the old Castle, long the home of the chiefs of the Macdonnels of Glengarry, whose patronymic was "Mac-mhic Alastair." The rocky headland on which the ruin stands was called "Creagan-nam-Fitheach," which name became the slogan or warcry of the clan. At the north of Loch Oich, near Cullochy Loch, is Aberchalder, where Prince Charles Edward mustered his army.

About two miles from Cullochy is Kyltra Loch, where passengers can have a walk of two miles along the canal bank, and join the steamer again at Fort Augustus. The old Fort was built by the government to overawe the clans that had taken part in the rising of 1715. It has for years past been entirely useless, having been dismantled, and is now the seat of a monastery of the order of St Benedict. Loch Ness is twenty-four miles long, having an average breadth of a mile-and-a-half, though in some parts having only half that width. The depth of this loch is very great, for which reason it has never been known to freeze, a fact which of old gave rise to many superstitions. A little further on, and on the opposite side of the lake, are the far-famed "FALLS OF FOYERS." There is

a pier here where passengers land, and where the steamer waits to give passengers time to visit the Falls. From the pier to the Falls, there is a walk of about three quarters of a mile by a winding path, up a ravine which leads to where the greater Fall can be seen to the best advantage. The scenery around is strikingly grand and picturesque. The smoke arising from the Falls looks in the distance, as if from a furnace, hence the name given it in Gaelic, of "Eas-na-smuid," which means the "Smoking Cataract." The waters of Foyers rise among the mountains of the "Monaliath," and run 13 miles along a high based glen, overhung by mountains, and within a mile and a half of its mouth, make two falls of respectively 40 and 90 feet. Burns wrote of this fall as follows:

First, when trying to subdue Scotland. It is a very fine ruin, and must have been a place of great strength. Glen Urquhart, above this Castle, belongs to the Earl of Seafield, and in it is his own residence of Balmacaan. On the north-eastern extremity of Loch Ness is Aldourie, residence of Charles Fraser Tytler, Esq. Next on the opposite side is Dochfour House, a fine modern building in the Italian style. A little further on is the source of the river Ness, and about half a mile beyond it is Dochgarroch Loch. After this there is no further detention until the steamer ARRIVES AT MUIRTOWN, THE LANDING-PLACE FOR INVERNESS. Cabs and omnibuses await the steamer's arrival at Muirtown, and passengers will find plenty of good accommodation in the town of Inverness. (See Route 30, page 110.)

ROUTE 24.

OBAN TO GLENCOE.

NE of Mr David MacBrayne's steamers leaves Oban every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from about the middle of May till about end June, and daily thereafter till about end of September, at (say 7 A.M.), returning at about 7 P.M., giving passengers ample time at Ballachulish to visit Glencoe. Vehicles are found waiting on the arrival of the steamer. The Ballachulish Hotel is good.

(On the return from Glencoe passengers may take the afternoon steamer for Banavie and the Caledonian Canal, if they wish to continue on instead of returning to Oban.)

On leaving Oban the steamer passes between the island of Kerrara and Dunolly Castle, and takes the passage between the island of Lismore and the coast, the route being through part of Loch Linnhe, north of Lismore, thence into Loch Leven, in which we land at Ballachulish (Ballachulish Hotel). A short drive brings us to the entrance to Glencoe. Its scenery is proverbial for the wild sublimity of its features. The rocks seem to hide their summits in the clouds, and such is the air of desolation which pervades it that one finds it difficult to believe that the glen was ever the habitation of civilized beings. It exhibits nearly the same features throughout; the same aspect of mingled grandeur and sterility, the same chaos of rocks and frowning precipices. About the middle of the glen, the whole length of which is about eight miles, is the lake Treachtan, from which a streamlet, the "Cona' of Ossian, issues. To the reader of Ossian this is classic ground. From the evidence afforded by several passages in his poems, Glencoe, or the vale of the Cona, appears to have been his birthplace. "Sleeps the sweet voice of Cona in the midst of his rustling hall? Sleeps Ossian in his hall and his friends without their fame?" "The chiefs gathered from all their hills, and heard the lovely sound. They praised the voice of Cona, first among a thousand bards."

But with the poetical associations of Glencoe one of a truly painful nature is ever present to the imagination, the massacre of its unsuspecting inhabitants, the Macdonalds, in 1692. In August preceding the massacre, many of the Highlanders having been in arms in favour of the abdicated James II., a proclamation had been issued offering an indemnity