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the last named place, we soon reach the lighthouse on Toward Point. Our direction is now towards the shores of Bute; on our left, in a southerly direction is Mount Stewart House, the seat of the Marquis of Bute. Passing Craigmore Pier, we come to the bay of Rothesay, conspicuous objects in which are the Aquarium and the Hydropathic Establishment. ROTHESAY is the capital of Bute; its Castle, now in ruins, was a royal residence as early as 1100. We now direct our course to the entrance of the KYLES OF

BUTE, the scenery becoming still more attractive. On our left is Ardbeg Point,and farther on Port Bannatyne, a watering-place; on the right is Lochstriven. After touching at Colintraive, we pass through the Kyles (or narrows) of Bute. The passage here between the mainland and the Island of Bute, is very narrow. As the steamer turns to the left Loch Ridden comes in view, and the scenery becomes exceedingly varied and beautiful. We presently call at Tighnabruaich, a sea-side resort with many villas and cottages. We next pass Kames, and see before us the low-lying island of Inchmarnock, and beyond, the Holy Isle. Soon after turning Ardlamont Point, we have a view to the far south of the Island of Arran, with its highest mountain peak Goat Fell (3,000 feet). We are now in Lochfyne and on our left, on a clear day the Ayrshire coast is visible. We now approach the coast of Kintyre. Our next stopping-place is at East Tarbert, the pier of which is a mile from the village.

From this place coaches convey passengers to the head of West Loch Tarbert, a mile distant, from which point a swift steamer sails every day to the Island of Islay. On a height above Tarbert, is a castle built by Robert

Bruce, and in which he resided, in 1326. In a bay before us is Lochgilphead, on the right of which we see Kilmory Castle, and on the left ARDRISHAIG, our landing-place. Here, we leave the large steamer, and go on board the canal steamer for the passage through the CRINAN CANAL. This canal connects Lochfyne with Loch Crinan, and was constructed to enable vessels trading between the Clyde and the West Highlands, to avoid the circuitous passage round the Mull of Kintyre. It was completed in 1801; it has fifteen locks, through nine of which our steamer passes. For many years the passenger boats were drawn through the canal by horses. A few moments after leaving Ardrishaig, we see on the right the town of Lochgilphead with the Lunatic Asylum upon the hill, and in the foreground Bishopton Chapel and Palace, the seat of the Episcopal Bishop of Argyll and the Isles. Half-an-hour brings us to Cairnbaan, the entrance to the Vale of Dail, where there are nine lochs through which the steamer passes in forty-five minutes. Leaving the valley, and descending on the west side, we pass on the right a plain of 5,000 acres, called Crinan Moss. On the summit of the hills, to the north and east, we see the village of Kilmartin, and near it the ruins of Carnasserie Castle. Farther off on our right, is the mansion called Poltalloch (John Malcolm, Esq.), whose estate reaches 40 miles in one line. The mountains of Scarba and Mull are visible. We next pass Duntroon Castle, a modern building upon a promontory, and reach CRINAN the terminus of the canal. A walk of half a minute brings us to the pier, where the large saloon-steamer

now

is waiting to start for OBAN (dinner is served immediately after the passengers go on board). Our course now lies across the mouth of Loch Craignish; on the left is the Sound of Jura. Fifteen minutes after leaving Crinan, we pass between the point of Craignish and the Island of Garbreisha. Leaving Craignish, we see on our left, Jura and the Island of Scarba, between which is the celebrated whirlpool of Corryvrechan. The Atlantic tide, rushing at a speed of about 18 miles an hour through the strait between Scarba and Jura, and impeded in its course by a sunken rock, is thrown into such commotion, that the roar of the waves can be heard for many miles. We now cross the mouth of Loch Melfort, and rounding the Point of Luing, enter the Sound of Luing, and after about 3 miles, arrive at Black Mill Bay, Luing. Two or three miles westward of the Phladda Lighthouse, is a group of islands, one of which, the Holy Isle, is associated with the memory of Saint Columba, containing the ruins of a chapel, and other structures. We now sail for a short time on the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. In the distance, on our left, is the Isle of Mull. We soon enter a narrow and rocky channel, and passing between the islands of Easdale and Seil, reach Easdale pier. Our course now lies along the coast of the Island of Seil; nearing the Island of Kerrera, we see on a rocky promontory Gylen Castle. We now enter the Sound of Kerrera, and passing several mansions and villas, we soon come in sight of Dunolly Castle, one of the oldest and most picturesquely situated of the ruins of the Western Highlands. The principal part remaining is the donjon or keep. Upon the shore, about a quar

ter of a mile nearer Oban, is the huge conglomerate mass called Clach-na-cu or the Dog Stone. Tradition says that Fingal used this rock as a stake to which he tethered his celebrated dog Bran.

We presently reach OBAN (Hotels: See Hotel List). Those who desire to make the tours of Staffa and Iona, Loch Scavaig, Loch Coruisk, Skye, Gairloch and Loch Maree, land here, also those who wish to proceed by the morning boat to Ballachulish (for Glencoe) and Inverness, while those intending to continue their journey to Banavie same day remain on board. OBAN is a convenient centre for making excursions. It is of comparatively modern origin. It originally belonged to Campbell of Dunstaffnage, but since then there have been many changes of ownership. There are several large hotels and numerous villas, many of which are let for the summer. The position of the town is very attractive, the views being grand and extensive. The climate is mild and healthy

"For Oban is a dainty place;

In distant or in nigh lands,
No town delights the tourist race

Like Oban in the Highlands."

Three miles northward from Oban are the ruins of Dunstaffnage Castle, the residence, in ancient times, of the chieftains of the Picts. Here, for a long time, was preserved the stone on which the kings of Scotland sat at their coronation. It was afterwards removed to Scone, where it remained until, in the thirteenth century, Edward I. carried it with him to England, and deposited it in Westminster Abbey, where it still forms part of the coronation chair on which the English sovereigns are seated at the time of their coronation.

For a description of the remainder of this Route, Oban to Inverness by the Caledonian Canal, see Route 23, page 90.

ROUTE 22.

OBAN TO STAFFA AND IONA.

(The time occupied in this trip is about twelve hours. Return Fare £1.)

HE steamer for Staffa and Iona leaves Oban every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, in June, and daily during July, August, and September. By this route a journey is made round the island of Mull; the steamer some days going by the Sound of Mull and other days returning by it, it being determined by the tides (except on the Wednesdays), when the steamer goes by the Sound of Mull and returns to Tobermory the same evening. The small boats for landing at Staffa and Iona are capable of carrying from thirty to forty passengers, and manned by experienced boatmen. A

granite slip or pier for the landing of passengers has been built at Iona. At Staffa everything has been done for the comfort and safety of passengers; handrails of wire rope have been fixed from the mouth of Fingal's Cave to the inner end, which enable passengers to go to the far end of the cave without danger. A new stair from the Clam-Shell Cave leads to the summit of the island. The steamer's fare includes boats, guides, and all charges excepting meals on board.

Leaving Oban Bay, we pass Dunolly Castle, and between the Maiden Island and the end of Kerrera, make for Lismore Lighthouse, nearly opposite which is the Lady Rock, covered by the sea at high tide, and with nothing visible but the Iron Beacon. Tradition says that it was on this rock one of the M'Leans of Duart placed his wife, expecting that the flowing tide would sweep her off. She was rescued by one of her brothers; and the legend forms the subject of Campbell's spirited poem of "Glenara." On the first prominent point stands the old Castle of Duart. From this quarter is to be seen one of the finest pieces of scenery in Scotland. Looking backwards is Ben Cruachan, above the Argyllshire hills; to the left Ben Nevis, the Peaks of Glencoe, with the waters of Loch Linnhe, Loch Creran, and Loch Etive; to the right the Island and Peaks of Jura and Colonsay; and in front the Kingairloch, Morven, Ardnamurchan, and Mull hills. We are now in the Sound of Mull, and after passing Duart Castle,

we

come in view of Torosay Castle, beautifully situated in Duart Bay. The first stop is Craignure Ferry, after which the steamer crosses to the Morven

shore, where we see Ardtornish Castle, where Sir Walter Scott has laid the first scene of the "Lord of the Isles." Rounding Ardtornish Point, the steamer touches at Lochaline, and further on we see the "Manse of Finery," the early home of Dr Norman M'Leod, the late great Scottish divine. Near Killundine Point are Con Castle, close to the water's edge, and Killundine House. Opposite these is Salen Pier, the landing-place for this district in Mull, after leaving which we pass Aros Castle, another fine ruin.

A magnificent view is now obtained of the mountains Ben Tallah and Ben More. The lat ter is the highest mountain in Mull. We are now in full view of Tobermory, or the Well of Mary. From the pier, and looking across the bay, is Drumfin Castle. Leaving Tobermory, and looking towards the Morven shore, we see the chapel and residence of Lady Gordon of Drimnin. On the opposite side of the Loch Dunart from Drimnin, on the Ardnamurchan shore, is Mingary Castle, once of great importance. Passing Rhu na Gal Lighthouse, on the Mull shore, the first bay is called Bloody Bay, the scene of a great sea fight 400 years ago. We are now on the Atlantic, and passing Ardmore Point, we see Glengorm Castle, a large mansion (William Lang, Esq.). At Callach Point, and looking over by Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, we can see the Scuir of Eigg, the island of Rum with its peaks, and the islands of Muck and Canna, the Cuchullin hills in Skye, Coll, Tyree, and the Treshnish Islands. At Treshnish Point we get a full view of all the Treshnish Islands, including Staffa, Fladda, the two Cairnburgs, Lunga, and Bach, or the Dutchman's Cap, so named from the island being shaped like the latter. One of these islands, Cairnburg, has the remains of Danish fortifications. There are no residents in any of these islands, but they are all covered with very rich grass, and are used for feeding a few cattle. On the left hand Loch Tua opens up to view, with Torloisk, the property of the Marquis of Northampton. Loch Tua is formed by the Mull shore and the islands of Ulva and Gometra, and they again form another loch called Loch-na-Keal, in the mouth of which lie the islands of Inch

Kenneth and Little Colonsay. Loch-na-Keal nearly cuts Mull in two, there being only four miles between the head of it and Salen Pier in the Sound of Mull. As we approach Staffa the lifeboat is seen waiting to land passengers. This boat comes daily across from the island of Gometra, a distance of about five miles. The boatmen, before the steamer arrives, have fixed upon the best landing-place for the day, it depending entirely on wind and weather at which part of the island it may be most suitable to do so. Sometimes the landing has to be made at the very furthest end of the island from Fingal's Cave, which gives a walk of the entire length of the island (one mile), at other times the passengers are landed at the entrance to the cave.

FINGAL'S CAVE may be entered on foot at the south side, where it looks towards Iona; the visitor walking along the tops of pillars. Its direction is about north-east and south-west. The dimensions, as given by Sir J. Banks, are:Length from rock without, 371

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The sea never entirely ebbs from it, so that there is always a floor of green water; and its swell produces something like the effect of a "ship heaving in a sea way.' The top is divided by a fissure, and is irregular. Near the mouth it is a mass of shapeless rock. Further up it is composed, like the floor, of broken ends of pillars. Here, says Scott ("Lord of the Isles "),—

Nature herself would seem to raise
A minster to her Maker s praise!
Not for a meaner use ascend
Her columns, or her arches bend.

Leaving the Cave, we pass round the Causeway, where is pointed out the Corner Stone, being the only square stone on the island. From this point, a very fine view is got of the Bending Pillars seemingly bent out by the weight of the mass above them. Half way along the Causeway is Fingal's wishingchair. Tradition says one has only to sit on it, and wish three separate wishes, when they are all sure to be granted. We now ascend the stair to the top of the island, from whence we get the best view of the Clam-shell Cave. This cave cannot be entered either by boat or on foot. From the right hand side of the stair, looking down over the Causeway, and the Herdsman, we have a wonderful view pillars and stones in every conceivable shape, position and angle, and of every size, all built or fitted into each other. From the summit of the island M'Kinnon's Cave is to be seen. From the summit we see Iona, and its Cathedral, and further off, Big Colonsay, Islay and Jura, and to the left the Tresnisk Islands, Coll, Tyree, &c. Leaving Staffa we keep close to Fingal's, M'Kinnon's, and the Boat Caves, giving an opportunity of viewing them from the

sea. After a sail of about thirtyfive minutes, we reach IONA, aud upon being landed, passengers are conducted by the official guide (appointed by the Duke of Argyll, who is the proprietor of the island) to the ruins of the Nunnery. Leaving these ruins we pass up what was called the Street of the Dead, past the Established Church and Manse and "M'Lean's Cross," thought to be the oldest cross in Scotland, being one of 360 said to have been standing on the island, but of which only two now remain entire" this and St Martin's." The latter is in the grounds of the Cathedral, as also the graves of the chiefs and kings, of whom there are sixty said to be interred here; St Orran's Chapel, with its Norman doorway and triple arch; and the Cathedral itself and St Columba's tomb; the gravestones of bishops, abbots, and monks, and of M'Leod of M'Leod. Iona was the cemetery of the Scottish kings. So great was its repute as a burial-place, that, besides fortyeight kings of Scotland, four kings of Ireland, eight Norwegian monarchs, and one of France, repose here. This distinction it acquired partly from its peculiar sanctity, and partly from a belief in an ancient Gaelic prophecy, thus rendered into English:

"Seven years before that awful day,
When time shall be no more,
A dreadful deluge shall o'erspread
Hibernia's mossy shore;

The green-clad Isla, too, shall sink,
While, with the great and good,
Columba's happier isle shall rear
Her towers above the flood."

Iona has a population of about 260; with two churches, Free and Established. The Free Church stands prominently on the point at Martyr's Bay, so called from the fact that it was in this place in olden times that

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