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of tapestry; and portraits of Queen Mary herself, Henry VIII., and Queen Elizabeth.

At the south-west corner of this chamber a door leads to the dressing-room, some ten feet square. On the north side is a small door, which opens on the private staircase by which the assassins of Rizzio ascended to the royal apartments; and close to this door is the entrance to the supper-room or closet, where, on the night of the 9th of March 1566, Rizzio was dragged from the presence of the queen, and was finally despatched. "Darnley, who headed the conspirators, entered first, and casting his arm fondly round the queen's waist, seated himself beside her at table. Lord Ruthven followed in complete armour, looking pale and ghastly, as one scarcely recovered from long sickness. Others crowded in after them, till the closet was full of armed men. While the queen demanded the purpose of their coming, Rizzio, who saw that his life was aimed at, got behind her and clasped the folds of her gown, that the respect due to her person might protect him. The assassins threw down the table and seized on the unfortunate object of their vengeance, while Darnley himself took hold of the queen, and forced Rizzio and her asunder. It was their intention, doubtless, to have dragged Rizzio out of Mary's presence, and to have killed him elsewhere; but their fierce impatience hurried them into instant murder." Some dark stains, said to have been made by the blood of the ill-starred Italian, are still pointed out at the head of the stair. In this little room is a block of marble, which part of the step on which Queen Mary and Darnley knelt at their marriage.

Descending to the inner court,

and proceeding eastward, we reach the ruins of the CHAPEL ROYAL, the only portion remaining of the Abbey of Holyrood. The only part now standing consists of the remains of the nave of the ancient building, originally 148 feet long and 66 feet broad. In the interior of the chapel, the two piers at the north-east end are all that remain of the seven that originally divided the nave from the aisles. The east window, 34 feet high by 20 feet broad, is of comparatively modern origin, and was blown out in a violent storm in 1795, but was restored in 1816. The most ancient portion of the present edifice is a small Norman doorway, now built up, at the back of the mass of masonry above the royal vault. Almost all the west

front, with its great tower and richly ornamented doorway, is part of the original edifice, and a beautiful specimen of the mixed Norman and early English style. In this chapel Charles I. was crowned, and James II., James III., James IV., and Queen Mary and Darnley were married; and here, in the royal vault, at the south-east end, lie the remains of David II., James II., Mary of Gueldres, James V., the queen and second son of James V., the Duke of Albany, Lord Darnley, and many others of lesser note. In the north-west tower is the tomb of Lord Viscount Belhaven, councillor to Charles I., and one of the most remarkable men of his day, who died at Edinburgh on the 12th of January 1639. The monument is of Italian marble.

Having visited Holyrood, the tourist should take a carriage and make the circuit of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags by the beautiful road called THE QUEEN'S DRIVE. It is best to go up on the left or north side. Nearly

opposite the southern entrance gate of the Palace is St Margaret's Well, a small gothic building of great antiquity, with a groined roof, supported in the centre by a decorated pillar, from which the water flows through gargoils. Continuing the Drive, we see the ruins of St Anthony's Chapel on the rising ground to the right. This chapel was a hermitage of the Carmelite Friars. A little below the chapel is St Anthony's Well, a spring that flows from the rock into a stone basin, and then into the lake below. A small sheet of water, called St Margaret's Loch, lies at the base of the hill. At the bend of the road we see Dunsappie Loch, on the slopes to the east of which the army of Prince Charles Edward encamped both before and after the battle of Prestonpans. (The ascent of Arthur's Seat is made easily from this point, as the hill is less abrupt here than on any of its other sides. The summit is 822 feet above the level of the sea, and the magnificent view to be had from it will well repay the labour of the ascent.) Our drive now overlooks the village of Duddingston, with its loch, and its quaint church, and we see on the rising ground beyond the imposing ruins of Craigmillar Castle, where Mary Queen of Scots often resided. The road now descends a valley, and winds round the base of Salisbury Crags; but the higher road, on the right, a pathway cut in the face of the Crags-the highest elevation of which is the central cavity of the Cat Nick, about 570 feet above the level of the sea-is the one most frequently taken by pedestrians, as its elevated platform affords a series of magnificent views of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth, and the coast of Fife. It was a favourite walk of David Hume, the historian, and of Sir

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Walter Scott, who says, "It used to be my favourite evening and morning resort when engaged with a favourite author, or new subject of study." The road in this direction is overhung by a range of greenstone columns of a pentagonal or hexagonal form, from 50 to 60 feet in length, and 5 in diameter, called Samson's Ribs.

The valley which divides Salisbury Crags from Arthur's Seat is called the Hunter's Bog. Farther on, near the park keeper's lodge at St Leonard's Hill, the cottage of Jeanie Deans may still be seen.

Having completed our visits to Calton Hill, Princes Street, and the Castle; having made the interesting journey from the Castle to Holyrood, and round Arthur's Seat and the Salisbury Crags, there remain some interesting objects to be seen in the New Town. Passing down Princes Street, about opposite the centre of West Princes Street Gardens, we reach Castle Street, turning to the right, into which street we soon reach No. 39 on the east side. In this house Sir Walter Scott resided for twenty-six years (1800-1826). His attachment to this residence is shown in the following extract from his diary:

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"March 15th, 1826. - This morning I leave No. 39 Castle Street. 'The cabin was convenient,' and habit had made it agreeable to me. So farewell, poor No. 39! What a portion of my life has been spent there! It has sheltered from the prime of life to its decline, and now I must bid good-bye to it." The house is close to the wide and beautiful George Street. Looking toward the east up George Street, we see the monument to the first Viscount Melville, in the style of the column of Trajan at Rome. In the centre of the street is also

the statue of George IV., also a statue of William Pitt, and farther west, at the intersection of Castle Street and George Street, is the statue of Dr Chalmers. Looking to the left, down George Street, the view is closed by the dome of St George's Church in Charlotte Square. In the centre of this square is the PRINCE ALBERT MEMORIAL. It is a bronze equestrian statue of the Prince Consort, and is considered the chef d'oeuvre of the Scottish sculptor, Steell. It was inaugurated on the 17th of August 1876, in presence of the Queen. Directly in the rear of St George's Church is Melville Street, a wide and pleasant avenue, at the head of which, and but a short distance away, is the magnificent new Episcopal Cathedral of St Mary, the largest church erected in Great Britain since the Reformation, the length being 262 feet, and the breadth 98 feet. The central spire is 275 feet high. Directly west of the Cathedral, and within a few minutes walk is DONALDSON'S HOSPITAL (admission by governor's order on Tuesday and Friday), the most important of the many charities of this class in Edinburgh. The founder, a printer, left his fortune of over £200,000 for the maintenance and education of a number of poor, including deaf and dumb, children. It was opened in 1851, and shelters nearly 300 children. Similar institutions, and well worthy of a visit, are HERIOT'S HOSPITAL, Stewart's Hospital, and John Watson's Hospital.

Immediately north of, and near the Albert Memorial, are Ainslie Place, Moray Place, and other handsome quarters, where reside the wealthier citizens of Edinburgh. North of, and parallel with Princes Street and George Street, which we have just visited,

is Queen Street, bordered on its north side, throughout nearly its whole extent, by the Queen Street Gardens. Other objects of interest in Edinburgh not previously mentioned are the following:THE UNIVERSITY, which may be reached by crossing the North Bridge, near the Waverley Railway Station, continuing across High Street along the South Bridge to the new Chambers Street, where it is situated. It was originally founded in 1582; the number of students is upwards of 1800; the library contains over 175,000 volumes; it is open daily from 10 to 4, fee 6d. Adjoining the University is the new Museum of Science and Art, open daily except Sundays, admission free on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 10 till 4. On Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday the fee is 6d. It contains a collection of illustrations of industrial art, comprising nearly all the chief manufactures of Britain, and many of foreign countries, and contains also extensive collections of Natural History.

A little to the south of the University is the Royal College of Surgeons, the museum of which is well worth visiting. Admission daily, except Tuesday, 12 to 4, free.

The Botanic Gardens in the northernmost part of the city, about a mile and a-half from Princes Street, were laid out in 1824, and comprise about thirty acres. They contain a museum, lecture-room, and herbarium; the Palm-House is 100 feet long, 57 feet broad, and 70 feet high. Admission free every day.

A very striking part of old Edinburgh is the street called the COWGATE, a little way south of and parallel to High Street. The buildings are very old, and the population consists of the roughest element. Most persons will be content with a look into the Cow

gate from either George IV. Bridge or the South Bridge, both of which cross it at a considerable elevation.

The Theatre Royal is at the head of Leith Walk, near the head of Princes Street, rebuilt in 1875.

EXCURSION

beneath the house is pierced by many curious caves, which are said to have been the dwelling places of the ancient inhabitants of the country, and in which, in later years, have been concealed many patriots and refugees; among them Bruce, whose cavern is pointed out by the attendant.

The path to ROSLIN is through the grounds of Hawthornden, along the river. The scenery is

FROM EDINBURGH TO HAWTHORN- very beautiful. Roslin Chapel is

DEN AND ROSLIN.

HE distance from Edinburgh to Hawthornden is 11 miles. The most convenient method of making the trip, is by the North British Railway, Waverley Station. Time 30 minutes. Fare, first-class, 1s.*

Leaving Edinburgh, and passing Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat, the first objects of interest on the route are the ruins of Crag millar Castle, near Millerhill (6 miles). This castle was the prisonhouse of James V., and the favourite residence of Queen Mary. She was also a prisoner here after the battle of Carberry. Two miles beyond Millerhill, is the Junction for Dalkeith, which is a mile distant. The Palace is the principal residence of the Dukes of Buccleuch. It contains a good collection of paintings. Admission on Wednesday and Saturday.

HAWTHORNDEN, once the residence of the poet Drummond, is a short walk from the station. Admission daily, charge 1s. The house is romantically situated on the edge of a cliff overhanging the North Esk. The face of the rock

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open to visitors every day, but on Admission 1s. It was founded in Sunday for divine service only. 1446, by William St Clair, Earl of Roslin, and has long been the subject of admiration to those qualified to judge of its merits as a relic of ecclesiastical architecture. Its dimensions are 69 feet in length by 34 in breadth, and 40 feet in height, with an arched roof supported by two rows of pillars, elaborately carved. The design, according to tradition, was by a Roman architect. During the progress of the building, it is said, some doubts having arisen in the mind of the architect as to the execution of some parts of the design, he went to Rome for advice, leaving his apprentice in charge of the work. The latter carried on the work with so much success as to overcome the difficulty which had staggered his master; and a fine fluted column, called "The Apwith wreaths of flowers and prentice's Pillar," ornamented foliage, in prominent relief, is shown as the pillar on which the genius of the apprentice was too fatally developed; for, on his return from Rome, says the legend, the jealousy of the architect was so kindled at the sight of this master-piece, that he slew the apprentice with a blow of his hammer. Upon the architrave which joins this pillar to the smaller one on the south wall, is

the following inscription in Gothic characters: FORTE EST VINUM: FORTIOR EST REX: FORTIORES SUNT MULIERES : SUPER OMNIA

VINCET VERITAS.

ROSLIN CASTLE looks down from an isolated height over the river Esk. Its origin is involved in mystery, but it is assigned to the eleventh century. There remain two tiers of arched rooms or vaults. It is chiefly remarkable for its picturesque situation.

ROUTE 21.

GLASGOW TO OBAN AND

INVERNESS.

(Trains connecting with the Steamer leave the Central Station at Glasgow for Greenock at 8 A.M,, and the St Enoch Station at about the same hour.)

Time to Oban 9 hours and 3 quarters, fares, first class, 14s., steerage, 7s. 6d. Time to Banavie, 12 hours 50 minutes, fare, first class, 21s. Time from Oban to Inverness, 10 hours. Fares, Glasgow to Inverness, first class, 33s. 6d., steerage, 15s.

HE steamer which leaves Glasgow at 7 A. M. every morning, except Sunday, reaches Ardrishaig at 12.15. The connecting steamer on the Crinan Canal reaches Crinan at 2.55 P.M. The steamer which leaves Crinan for Oban sails at 3 P.M. and reaches Oban at 4.45 P.M., and Banavie at 7.50 P.M. The steamer leaves Oban daily at 7 A. M., and reaches Inverness about 5.30 P.M.

One of the beautiful and swift steamers, Columba or Iona, be

longing to Mr David MacBrayne's fleet of Highland steamers, sails every morning except Sunday, during the summer. It will well repay those who have not seen the Clyde to take the steamer at Glasgow, instead of going by railway, an hour later, and overtaking the steamer at Greenock. For a description of the Clyde from Glasgow to Greenock, see Route 13. Our steamer makes two landings at Greenock, first at the Custom-House Quay, and then at the Prince's Pier, where the passengers are taken on board who have come from Glasgow by train. Opposite Greenock is Helensburgh, a favourite watering-place. Leaving Prince's Pier, we pass Fort Matilda, and above it the extensive Sailor's Home. The scenery now increases in variety and beauty; in front of us are the hills of Argyleshire, and on our right is Lochlong, upon which are the summer resorts of Kilcreggan and Cove on one side, and Strone and Blairmore on the other. As we proceed towards Holy Loch, we obtain a view out at sea, on our left of Bute and the Islands of Cumbrae. In front of us are numerous villas and cottages. Six miles from Greenock brings us to Kirn Pier, the landing-place for the watering-places on Holy Loch. In four minutes more we reach DUNOON, one of the oldest watering-places on the west coast. Not far beyond the pier is a mound surmounted by the ruins of the Castle of Dunoon. In the background is Benmore (2500 ft). Passing the West Bay of Dunoon, we see on the opposite shore, a little above Wemyss Bay, Castle Wemyss, the residence of John Burns, of the famous Cunard Line of steamers.

Going towards Innellan, the next stopping-place, we pass many handsome villas. Leaving

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