The "Dungeon clock" is removed, but "Simpson's" is still to be seen: it is a public-house at the end of the bridge furthest from the town. Wallace tower has been entirely rebuilt since the date of the poem which alludes to it. The fort, situated between the town and the sea, was built by Oliver Cromwell.

KIRK ALLOWAY, the poet's birth-place, is about 2 miles south of Ayr. THE COTTAGE stands on the right-hand side of the road, a quarter of a mile before reaching ALLOWAY-KIRK and the Brig o' Doon. It contains only two rooms, and is thatched and white-washed like a cabin of the humblest order. Over the door is a portrait of Burns, beneath which is the following inscription: "Robert Burns, the Ayrshire Poet, was born under this roof, the 25 Jan. A.D. 1759. Died A.D. 1796, aged 37 years." The poet was born in what is now the kitchen, in a recess which is still shown to tourists.

The Cottage stands on a pleasant plain, and about a quarter of a mile beyond on the left is the Monument erected to the poet's memory a dome surmounted with a lyre and significant winecup-and supported on Corinthian pillars. On the opposite side of the road is the old Kirk of Alloway; beyond, far to the right, is heard the sea, while the airy range of the Carrick hills stretches across, closing the landscape. At their feet a mass of trees masks the course of the Doon; but before you reach any of these objects

you pass on the left the large open field in which was held the Burns' festival on the 6th of August, 1844, the number of persons present at which was 80,000.

Alloway Kirk is roofless and is "just such a plain simple ruin as one sees in a hundred places in Ireland. One of the first objects that arrests the attention is the bell in the little belfry, with a rope hung outside. There are plenty of open windows where Tam O'Shanter could take a full view of the unsonsie dancing party; and 'the winnock bunker in the east,' a small window 'where sat auld Nick in shape of beast,' as fiddler, is conspicuous enough. The interior of the little kirk is divided by a wall. The western division is the burialplace of the Cathcarts. The other end, where the witch-dance met Tam's astonished eyes, is full of briars and nettles." Among the tombs in the kirk-yard is that of the poet's father, just before you enter by the stile, with this inscription:

"O ye whose cheek the tear of pity stains,

Draw near with pious reverence, and

attend!

Here lie the loving husband's dear remains,

The tender father, and the generous friend.

The pitying heart that felt for human woe;

The dauntless heart that felt no human

pride;

The friend of man, to vice alone a foe; For ev'n his failings lean'd to virtue's side.""

The last line is copied from Goldsmith's "Deserted Village."

There is no statue to Burns in the monument. The interior of the basement affords a circular chamber upwards of 18 ft. in diameter and 16 ft. high, lighted by a cupola of stained glass. This

apartment contains a copy of Nasmyth's picture of the poet, and on a table in the centre are the Bible and Testament given by Burns to his Mary at their last parting near Montgomerie Castle. "The two volumes are displayed at the beginning of each, where Burns has placed a masonic sign, and written his name, now nearly obliterated, adding the two texts, Leviticus xix. 12, Matthew v. 33, which are 'Ye shall not swear by my name falsely; I am the Lord;' and Thou shalt not forswear thyself, but shalt perform unto the Lord thine oaths.' These precious volumes were known to be in the possession of the sister of Burns' 'Mary' in America; and a society of young men, ardent admirers of Burns, resolved to regain them if possible. This, after considerable trouble and expense, they finally effected, and here they are, objects certainly of the deepest interest."-Howitt. In a separate building in the same garden stands the celebrated group by Thom, of Tam and Souter Johnny. The group was exhibited some years ago in London and the principal cities of the United Kingdom.

A short distance from the monument, and a little distance above the new bridge, is the Brig o' Doon, where Tam O'Shanter's mare, pursued by the witches whose orgies Tam had so rashly interrupted in Alloway Kirk,

"Brought off her master haill, But left behind her ain grey tail."

The present road from Ayr to Alloway Kirk is not the one which Tam is represented to have followed after he left the ale-house at Ayr. Since the poem was written the road has been straightened, and some of the localities are now at a little distance to the right of the present route.

About two miles south-east of Alloway is Mount Oliphant, a farm where Burns resided with his father between his sixth and twelfth years. From hence he removed to Lochlea, near Tarbolton, a few miles to the southeast. Here he remained to the age of twenty-four, and it was during this interval that he composed several of his poems,

John Barleycorn," "Cornrigs are bonnie," "Winter, a dirge," "The Death of poor Mailie,' "Now Whistling Winds," &c.

Close to Tarbolton lies Montgomerie Castle, where the poet used to visit "Highland Mary.' Here, too, as he mentions in the poem that bears her name, he saw her for the last time; she went to visit her friends in the Western Highlands, and died on her jourWriting of this last ney back. parting the poet tells us—

"How sweetly bloom'd the gay green birk,

How rich the hawthorn's blossom, As, underneath their fragrant shade, I clasp'd her to my bosom!"

The thorn tree, called "Highland Mary's Thorn," under which the meeting took place, is living still.

Four miles from Tarbolton is the farm of Mossgiel (Route 15, p. 59), where Burns wrote "the noblest of all his ballads," his "Address to Mary in Heaven."

Throughout this route the stupendous rock called Ailsa Craig is seen on the right, towering out of the ocean, at a distance of 10 miles from the shore.

The railway goes on through Girvan to Stranraer where it connects with steamers to Larne in Ireland.

EXCURSIONS FROM GLASGOW.

HE railway, steamer, and coach companies, advertise more than a hundred tours to various parts of Scotland, chiefly to the West Highlands, all of which have attractions, but descriptions of which would exceed our limits. Among them we propose to briefly describe a few.

1. GLASGOW TO THE KYLES OF BUTE, LOCH FYNE, AND IN

VERARY.

This excursion is most conveniently made by leaving Glasgow (St Enoch or Bridge Street Stations) about 8 A.M. every week day in summer, and going by railway, one hour to GREENOCK or to WEMYSS BAY, where the fine steamer, Lord of the Isles, is in waiting to continue the journey by the Kyles of Bute (already described in Route 21). The route is the same as that from Glasgow to the Crinan Canal and Oban, through the Kyles of Bute, into Loch Fyne; but, instead of turning westward, to stop at Ardrishaig, we continue almost directly north through Loch Fyne to Inverary, near the head of the loch

E

INVERARY (Hotel: Argyll Arms). This town, of about 1000 inhabitants, consists of one street, containing the church and a line of houses facing the loch. The chief attraction here is Inverary Castle, the seat of the Duke of Argyll. It is on the right bank of the river, near the site of the old baronial castle of the Campbells. It has been built at great cost, and is well worth a visit. The grounds are handsomely laid out and embellished. It is open to visitors in the absence of the family. The neighbourhood abounds in delightful excursions. The steamer reaches Inverary at 1 P.M., and leaves again for the return at 2.15 P.M. Fare-Glasgow to Inverary and return, first and cabin, 5s.; second and cabin, 3s. 11d.

2. GLASGOW TO THE KYLES OF BUTE, LOCH FYNE, INVERARY, AND LOCH GOIL.

Tourists by this route join the splendid new steamer, Lord of the Isles, at Greenock or Wemyss Bay, thence to the Kyles of Bute and Loch Fyne. The neighbourhood of Inverary abounds in beautiful walks, and the grounds of Inverary Castle are open to the public. From Inverary to Lochgoilhead the coach passes through Hell's Glen, thence by steamer, via Loch Goil and Loch Long, and the Firth of Clyde, to Greenock and Glasgow. Fare for the round trip from Glasgow, first-class, 12s. 9d.; second, 10s.

3. GLASGOW TO ARDROSSAN, AYR (Land of Burns), AND LANARK (Falls of the Clyde).

(Railway and Steamer.)

By this route tourists leave the Bridge Street Station of the Cale

donian Railway by train about 8 A.M. for WEMYSS BAY, one hour. Here the steamer, Bonnie Doon, is taken for Ardrossan, TROON and AYR, which latter place is reached in four hours. From Ayr the return is by railway via LANARK, leaving Ayr at 2.50, giving ample time to visit Burns' birthplace and monument. Fare for the round trip, first-class, from Glasgow back to Glasgow, 11s. 9d.; second, 7s. Compare Route 16.)

ROUTE 17.

GLASGOW TO STORNOWAY, &c.,

(Via Mull of Kintyre.)

Mr DAVID MACBRAYNE'S steamers "CLYDESDALE" and "CLANSMAN," with goods and passengers.

HE sail from Glasgow to Stornoway, by the deep sea steamships

or

"Clansman " "Clydesdale," is a very pleasant one. These vessels leave Glasgow every Monday and Thursday about noon, and Greenock same evening about five o'clock. They have excellent passenger accommodation, and parties desirous of enjoying a week's sail (remaining on board during the trip), could not do better than to take one of these vessels. The route is via the Mull of Kintyre; Sound of Jura, Mull and Skye, passing through the most beautiful scenery in the West Highlands. After leaving Greenock the steamer sails down the Firth of Clyde, passing, on the left, the Cumbrae Islands,

and, on the right, the island of Bute. The steamer skirts the shores of Arran and the Holy Isle. We now pass close to Pladda Lighthouse, and steer our course for the Mull. On our left, about 7 miles off, can be seen the famous Ailsa Craig. Further on we pass the island of Sanda, on which there is a lighthouse. We are now about threequarters of an hour's sail from the Mull, and after rounding the light, steer along the shores of Jura, passing close to the whirlpool of Corryvrechan. On rising the next morning, we find the steamer approaching the Sound of Kerrara, and shortly thereafter Oban appears in view. We now arrive at Oban, where passengers can have an hour or two ashore. (See Route 21.)

Leaving Oban, the steamer passes, on the right, Dunollie Castle, and, on the left, the island of Kerrara. We now steer across Loch Linnhe, and thence, via the Sound of Mull, for Tobermory, calling at Craignure, Lochaline, and Salen. We now arrive at TOBERMORY, the chief town in Mull. It has two churches, county buildings, and a prison. After leaving Tobermory, we steer for the island of Eigg, passing, on the left, Ru-nangall Lighthouse, and, on the right, Ardnamurchan Point, the most westerly part of the mainland of Scotland. Should the day be clear we get a good view of the islands of Coll, Muck, Eigg, and Rum. We now arrive at Eigg, where a boat comes off to take passengers ashore. The scenery and geology of the island are of great interest. Travellers can proceed by steamer to Loch Coruisk and Skye or Oban, or can take boat to Arisaig and drive by Glenfinnan to FortWilliam. There is good hotel accommodation on the island.

Monday's steamer does not call at Eigg, but calls at Arisaig instead. The scenery about Arisaig is very pretty. Passengers can drive along the shores of Loch Sheil to Glenfinnan, where there is a monument erected to the memory of Prince Charles Edward Stuart (this being the place where he first unfurled his standard in the Highlands), and thence along the shores of Locheil to Banavie, where the tourist can get steamers to Oban and Inverness.

After leaving Eigg, we follow the same course as the steamer for Gairloch. (See Route 25.)

The steamer now arrives at Portree, the chief town in Skye, and the centre from which tourists start for the different places of interest in the island.

After about two hours' stay at Portree, we again resume our course, this time along the northern shores of Skye, affording the traveller a view of the famous Storr Rock and Quiraing. After passing the north end of Skye, the Shiant Isles (belonging to the Lews) are seen on our left. In the distance, on our left, are seen the highest hills in the Outer Hebrides "Chesham" in Harris (2600 feet), and "Ben More" in Lews (1600 feet). As we approach Lews, we can see only rock and heather on the high ground on our left.

We now approach the lighthouse at Arnish Point, and observe a hollow right ahead. This hollow divides the conglomerate from the gneiss, and the division runs almost due north through the middle of Stornoway Harbour, and for about 10 miles in a line a little to the east of Tolst Glen, on the north side of Broadbay.

The Bay of Stornoway is very beautiful; Lewis Castle on the heights, the finely laid out

grounds, and the town all astir with the bustle of active life make a very pleasant picture. The population is about 3000. In the neighbourhood are the castle and grounds; there are 10 miles of carriage drives, and 5 miles of foot walks in the vicinity of the castle. The view of the town and the hills of Ross and Sutherlandshire from the castle is very fine. The principal place of interest in the country is Callernish, where there is a number of druidical stones. This is one of the favourite places which tourists visit. Near to Callernish is the little inn of Garry-na-hine, which Mr Wm. Black describes in his "Princess of Thule."

ROUTE 18.

PORTREE TO LOCHMADDY, TARBERT (HARRIS), AND STORNOWAY.

HIS journey is performed by Mr David MacBrayne's steamer "Clydesdale" leaving Glasgow on Monday, and is taken every alternate week along with Ullapool and Lochinver, i.e., Portree to Stornoway, via Lochmaddy and Harris, the one week, and via Ullapool and Lochinver the next week.

Emerging from Portree Bay, we enter the Sound of Raasay, and steer along the northern shores of Skye, passing the famous Storr Rocks, Kilt Rock, and Quiraing. The islands on our right are Raasay and Rona. We now enter the Minch and the Long Island appears in view— that group of islands called the Outer Hebrides-the principal of which are Lewis, and Harris, North and South Uist, Benbecula,