the Caledonian Railway joins that from Glasgow. Crossing the Clyde, we pass THANKERTON (33 miles), near which are the ruins of Covington Castle. This village was a favourite retreat of the Covenanters during their times of persecution. Near SYMINGTON (35 miles) we see on the right the ruins of Fatlips Castle, and Tinto Hill, about 2000 ft. high, called also the "Hill of Fire.' Shortly before reaching Lamington we notice some Druidical remains, and the signs of a Roman encampment, and farther on the old tower of Lamington. Proceeding on our route we see beyond ELVANFOOT (49 miles) the Lowther Hills, on the right, rising upwards of 3000 ft., and on the left the sources of the Tweed, the Annan, and the Clyde. We now pass BEATTOCK, the nearest station to Moffat, NETHERCLEUGH (73 miles), and LOCKERBIE (76 miles), near which is a house called Brick Hall, where in 1801 died a very aged man, the original of Sir Walter Scott's Old Mortality. Shortly after passing Lockerbie we cross the Water of Milk, the scenery in the neighbourhood of which presents many charming features; at a distance may be seen the heights of Skiddaw, one of the principal mountains in the Lake district of England. The next station is ECCLEFECHAN (82 miles), near which we see on the right a large tower or keep, called Hoddam House, in olden times a stronghold of considerable importance. Opposite Hoddam House, on a small hillock, stands the "Tower of Repentance," built by one of the ancestors of Lord Herries, and deriving its name from the circumstance of its having been erected as a mark of penitence for some crime. There is an anecdote related of Sir Richard Steele, the essayist, in connection with this tower. While riding past he saw a poor peasant boy who was engaged in reading the Bible; and, asking him what he learnt from that book, the boy replied, "The way to Heaven." Steele asked him if he could point out the road, and the boy directed his attention to the "Tower of Repentance." Thomas Carlyle was born at Ecclefechan. Leaving Ecclefechan we pass KIRTLE BRIDGE (85 miles), and cross the River Kirtle, over a viaduct of nine arches, near which, on the north side, we notice Robt. Gill's Tower. Gill was a noted marauder, who, with a band of confederates, used to lay waste the country round about, and drive off the cattle and sheep from the farm-steads of their defenceless owners. A short distance beyond KIRKPATRICK (89 miles), we see, on the right, the branch line from Glasgow by Kilmarnock and Dumfries; and proceeding on our way we can see the Solway Frith, and the mountains of Westmoreland in the far distance. We soon reach GRETNA JUNCTION (93 miles), near which is the village of Gretna Green, which has attained celebrity as the place where clandestine marriages were entered into between runaway couples from beyond the border. It was the nearest convenient halting place for matrimonial adventurers of that description; the officiating minister was the village blacksmith, and the ceremony consisted merely in inscribing the names in a register, attested by the blacksmith. Such marriages were declared illegal by Act of Parliament in 1856. Passing FLORISTON (96 miles), and RoCKCLIFFE (98 miles), the tourist proceeds along an embankment called Guard's Embankment, crossing a marsh called Solway Moss, on which six million tons of earth had to be banked up before a sufficiently solid and safe foundation could be secured for the railway. On the right we observe the Solway Frith, and, on the left, the hills of Langholm, and, nearer, a monument erected in honour of Sir John Malcolm. We cross the river Esk over a viaduct of seven arches, and arrive at CARLISLE (104 miles.) (For description of Carlisle, see Route 36.) ROUTE 15. GLASGOW TO CARLISLE, BY DUMFRIES. (Glasgow and South Western Railway.) 125 miles; fares, first class, 17s. 6d., second, 13s. 3d., third, 8s. 8d. (The express trains to Carlisle and the South do not go by way of Paisley, but by a new line through Barrhead, by which the distance is shortened by ten miles.) EVEN miles from Glasgow, is the thriving town of PAISLEY (Hotels: County, George), with a population numbering about 50,000. It was originally the seat of a monastery which was founded in or about 1160 by Walter Stuart, an ancestor of the kings of Scotland; but it was not till 1760 that it began to grow into importance through the manufacture of silk gauze. Its trade embraces the manufacture of cotton goods, crapes, shawls, &c., and is greatly assisted by the numerous ironworks in the district. Apart from its industrial resources, it contains no object of interest except its ancient church, partially comprising the remains of the abbey. In the Gothic chapel adjoining the tourist will see the tomb of Marjory, daughter of Robert Bruce, the mother of Robert II., King of Scotland. The river White Cart divides Paisley into the new and the old town, which communicate with each other by three substantially-built stone bridges. Shortly before reaching Paisley, we notice, on an eminence above the White Cart, the ruins of Cruikstone Castle, formerly in the possession of the Stuarts. Here Darnley and Mary Stuart spent the first few weeks of their married life. Passing JOHNSTONE, a manufacturing town of about 6000 inhabitants, we see, near BEITH (163 miles), the remains of Giffen Castle, once belonging to the Earls of Eglinton. The next station is KILBIRNIE (182 miles), near which is a loch of the same name, upwards of two miles long; and the next DALRY JUNCTION (22 miles), where there is a branch line to Ayr. At Dalry commenced the agitation against episcopal government in Scotland, which led to great persecutions, and finally resulted in the establishment of Presbyterianism. We next pass CROSS HOUSE, and reach KILMARNOCK (32 miles), (George Hotel), population about 22,000, near which we observe the ruins of Dean Castle, formerly the seat of the Earls of Kilmarnock. This town has a considerable trade in woollen and cotton stuffs, carpets, &c. It communicates by rail with Troon and Ayr. Passing HURLFORD (341 miles), we reach MAUCHLINE (42 miles), _celebrated as the spot where Burns has placed the scene of several of his poems. Shortly after the death of William Burns, the poet's father, his widow and family removed to Mossgiel, a farm about one mile north of Mauchline. Here he fell in love with Jean Armour, the daughter of a stonemason at Mauchline, who, after many troubles and much opposition on the part of his family, became his wife. Here he wrote the greater part of his poems and his finer ones, and here he broke forth upon the world like a newrisen sun; his poems, which were first published at Kilmarnock, attracting such extraordinary attention, that he was called to Edinburgh, and a new and complete edition there published, while he himself was introduced as a sort of miracle to the highest circles of aristocracy and literature. The scene of his "Holy Fair" is laid in the churchyard of Mauchline, and just opposite the gate is the cottage of "Auld Nanse Tinnock," where the "Jolly Beggars" are described as assembling; and in a cottage close by is shown the room in which the poet's marriage was celebrated, and in which he is said to have composed the satire entitled "The Calf." On a pane in the window of the Whitefoord Arms Inn he inscribed the humorous "Epitaph on John Dow," the landlord. "The Braes of Ballochmyle" are two miles from Mauchline. They extend along the north bank of the Ayr. The scenery is varied and beautiful; the banks of the river are broken by picturesque glens and glades, and clothed with rich patches of woodland. When Burns first came to Mossgiel, the owner of Ballochmyle was Sir John Whitefoord, and it was as a mark of sympathy with a member of the family, his daughter Maria, on having to quit the scenes of her youth, when the property passed into other hands owing to her father's embarrassments, that the poet composed the affecting lines: "The Catrine woods were yellow seen, "Low in your wintry beds, ye flowers, Sir John Whitefoord's successor was a Mr Alexander, and, in honour of his daughter, Burns composed the song The Lass of Ballochmyle." The spot where the poet first met the subject of his song is marked by a rustic grotto, with an inscription consisting of a few lines from the song in question in fac-simile of the author's handwriting. Leaving Mauchline, we reach AUCHINLECK (46 miles), the ancient seat of the Boswells, of which family came James Boswell, Dr Samuel Johnson's biographer; and passing by several places of no interest, we arrive at CARRON BRIDGE (73 miles), near which, at Elliock, is the birthplace of James Crichton, styled "The Admirable Crichton," from the versatility of his genius and the extent of his accomplishments. Proceeding on our route, we pass THORNHILL (76 miles), and CLOSEBURN (791 miles), near which, on the left, is Wallace Hall Academy, one of the principal schools in Scotland. HOLYWOOD (87 miles). At DALSWINTON, a few miles distant, is a small lake on which experiments in steam navigation were first made by Watt. Mr Patrick Miller, the owner of the property at that time, let his farm of Ellisland, in the immediate neighbourhood, to Burns, and here the poet composed two of his most famous poems, "Tam o' Shanter," and the pathetic ode "To Mary in Heaven." Near the bridge the tourist will see the romantic grounds of Friars' Carse, which the poet frequently visited during his residence at Dumfries and Ellisland. The most convenient access to these places is from DUMFRIES (91 miles). (Hotel: King's Arms), population, about 13,000, situated on the left bank of the river Nith, and the principal town in the south of Scotland. One of its bridges is said to be the first erected in the country, with the exception of those constructed by the Romans. In the market-place is a column to the memory of the last Duke of Queensberry. In the ancient church of the Minorites, no traces of which are now extant, Robert Bruce slew his brother-in-law Comyn, his rival in the impending struggle for the crown of Scotland. Besides several churches, this town contains a famous academy, an hospital, and a townhall, with a belfry erected from a design by Inigo Jones. The old church of St Michael, built in the thirteenth century, is called the "Westminster Abbey of Scotland," from the great number of monuments it contains. In the adjacent cemetery is a handsome mausoleum, erected by public subscription to the memory of Robert Burns. It contains an allegorical piece of sculpture by Turnerelli, representing the genius of Scotland bestowing the poetic mantle on Burns, who is attired in his ordinary rustic dress, and engaged at the plough. The poet resided five years in Dumfries, chiefly employed in his duties as exciseman. The visitor is shown the humble abode in Burns Street where he breathed his last. Amongst other public buildings is the theatre, where Edmund Kean is reported to have made his first appearance on the stage. The Ruins of Lincluden Abbey and Lincluden College, which can be seen from the railway just before arriving at Dumfries, stand on a gentle eminence near the confluence of the rivers Nith and Cluden. Originally here was a Benedictine nunnery, founded in the reign of Malcolm IV., but shortly afterwards the nuns were driven out by the Earl of Douglas, and a collegiate establishment formed, consisting of a provost and twelve beadsmen. In the church is the tomb, in the form of a handsome shrine, of Margaret, daughter of Robert III., and wife of the Earl of Douglas, whose armorial bearings are over the door of the vestry. Allusion is made to these ruins in Burns's poem "The Vision." RUTHWELL (99 miles), passing, on the right, Comlangan Castle, surrounded by a wellwooded park, and, crossing a huge morass called Lochar Moss, through which the Lochar flows in a winding course. Near Cummertrees (103 miles) we see Hoddam Castle, built by Lord Herries, and shortly afterwards we arrive at ANNAN (106 miles) (Hotel : Queensberry Arms), population, about 4600, one of the most ancient towns in Scotland. It is situated on the river from which it takes its name, and which falls into the Solway Frith here. The river is spanned by a handsome bridge of three arches. Annan contains three schools and two churches, the most ancient of which has a fine belfry. Here are also shipbuilding yards, and a good trade is carried on in the manufacture of gingham, &c. About 10 miles farther is Gretna Green celebrated for its runaway marriages. (For remainder of this route, see Route 14.) ROUTE 16. GLASGOW TO AYR AND 40 miles; first class, 6s. 8d.; second, 58.; third, 3s. 3d. E proceed to DALRY (22 miles), as by Route 15, and thence to KILWINNING, about 4 miles distant (Hotel: Eglinton Arms), a village which derives its name from a saint called Winning, who in the eighth century dwelt here in a cell, called in the Gaelic tongue Kil. In 1107 an abbey was founded in honour of this saint by Hugh de Moreville, the ruins of which are still to be seen. It was built by a company of Freemasons from the continent, and they established here the first Masonic Lodge in Scotland. About a mile distant is EGLINTON CASTLE, the seat of the Earls of Eglinton, where, in 1839, a tournament was held after the fashion of the days of chivalry. The late Emperor of the French took part in it as one of the knights. (There is a railway from Kilwinning to Ardrossan, on the sea coast, a town which owes its prosperity to the coal-mines and ironworks in the neighbourhood.) In clear weather we can see, on the right hand, after leaving Kilwinning, the lofty mountains in the Isle of Arran at a distance of about 25 miles. IRVINE (29 miles). (Hotel : King's Arms.) Here Burns resided for a short time, carrying on the business of a flaxdresser. Here were born the poet Montgomery and Galt the novelist. TROON (34 miles) (Hotel: Portland) is a small town much fre quented in the bathing season. Three miles on the right is Dundonald Castle, a ruin where Robert II. of Scotland resided before he came to the throne; a few miles farther on the left is Fullarton Castle, a seat of the Duke of Portland. Passing Monkton (36 miles) and Prestwick, near which are the ruins of Kingswell, a monastery endowed by Robert Bruce, we reach AYR (40 miles). (Hotel: King's Arms.) Population, 18,000. This ancient town, bearing so many associations with the memory of Burns, lies on a sandy plain close to the sea. On leaving the railway station, the tourist sees before him the memorable "Twa Brigs.' The New Brig, greatly widened since Burns's time, is that by which we pass direct into the town. The Auld Brig is about 100 yards higher up, and is only used as a foot-path. The following description is given of it by the poet : "Auld Brig appeared o' ancient Pictish race The very wrinkles Gothic in his face ; He seemed as he wi' Time had warstled lang, Yet, toughly doure, he baide an unco bang." visit to it: And he gives an account of his "A simple bard, Unknown and poor, simplicity's re ward, At night, within the ancient burgh of Ayr, By whim inspired, or haply pressed wi' care, He left his bed, and took his wayward route, And down by Simpson's wheeled the left about: The drowsy dungeon clock had numbered two, And Wallace tower had sworn the fact was true; The tide-swollen Firth, wi' sullen sounding roar, Through the still night dashed hoarse along the shore. |