England and France, are comfortable, and the speed very great. The time occupied in crossing from Folkestone to Boulogne is ten to fifteen minutes longer than from Dover to Calais. Boulogne is, however, three-quarters of an hour nearer Paris than Calais, so that these few additional minutes on the Channel are compensated by the saving of the uninteresting railway journey from Calais to Boulogne. The Boulogne route is more economical as well as more comfortable than the other. The fare by Dover and Calais to Paris is for first class, £3; second, £2, 5s. Express trains take no third class passengers. The fare by Folkestone and Boulogne to Paris is: first class, £2, 16s.; second, £2, 2s. The route via Southampton and Havre is not a daily line, the steamers leaving each port on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday evenings. The average time occupied in crossing at Dover is about one hour and a half, at Folkestone about two hours, at Newhaven about six hours, at Southampton about eight hours, at Harwich about ten hours, to either Antwerp or Rotterdam, and at Queensborough about the same

time.

Persons desiring to break the journey at Dover, Folkestone, Newhaven, or Southampton, will find excellent hotels near the landings. The advantage in remaining over night at Dover or at Folkestone to take the morning boat, besides that of being enabled to rise at a less inconvenient hour to take the early train from London, is that the traveller may go on board before the arrival of the passengers by the trains, secure the best position, and make, without haste or confusion, the necessary preparations for the trip.

There is a daily tidal service between London and Boulogne, by the Thames. The steamers leave from London Bridge. Fares to Paris, first class, 30s.; second, 22s. The crossing from the mouth of the Thames to Boulogne is usually made in about 4 hours, the whole distance being done in from 8 to 9 hours.

Travellers desiring to proceed from London direct to Belgium and Germany, may take the Belgian mail steamers, which leave Dover every morning for OSTEND. By this route the Channel is usually crossed in from 5 to 6 hours. Express trains for Brussels, Cologne, &c., connect with the steamers at Ostend. For the journey to the Continent via Harwich (Great Eastern Route), see Route 61 below.

miles) is a flourishing markettown of about 5,000 inhabitants. The ales from Romford Brewery are celebrated all over the south of England. On the right, near Brentwood (17 miles), is Thorndon Hall, the magnificent seat of Lord Petre.

CHELMSFORD (29 miles) (Hotels; Black Boy, Saracen's Head), situated on the Chelmer, is the county town of Essex. Population about 2,600. In the neighbourhood, about 5 miles distant, is Danbury, noted for its church, which is built on the site of a Danish encampment. In the interior are the tombs of three knights, cross-legged, as was the case with the effigies of all those who had fought in the Holy Land. Danbury Palace is the residence of the Bishop of Rochester. On the right, near Witham (384 miles), we observe Braxted Park. We see nothing worthy of further mention before arriving at

COLCHESTER (51 miles). (Hotels; Three Cups, Red Lion, George.) It is supposed that this is the site of the Roman station of Camelodunum. Part of the Castle and of the ancient walls is still existing, and we see the ruins of St John's Abbey, and St Botolph's Priory, together with other remains of antiquity. Colchester is situated on the south bank of the River Colne, and is especially famed for its oysters. From Colchester we proceed to Manningtree Junction (59 miles), and, leaving the main line, reach

HARWICH (69 miles). (Hotel; Great Eastern.) It is situated near the mouth of the Stour, and has a commodious harbour and dockyard. There is a regular traffic and passenger service between London, Harwich, and Rotterdam every week-day, and between the same places and Ant

the Crystal Palace, and proceed past several unimportant places, through a country the attractions of which have made Kent known as "the garden of England." We then pass Rochester (33 miles), an ancient town situated on the River Medway and the seat of a bishopric. It contains a cathedral and the ruins of a castle on an eminence above the river. The ruins of the castle are among the finest in England, and are well worth a visit. The immense keep, the walls of which are nearly perfect, is a striking object as seen from the train. The next station is Chatham (34 miles). (Hotel; Mitre.) Population estimated at 46,177. This important place is a market town and parliamentary borough upon the Medway. Its prosperity and activity are entirely dependent upon that of the Dockyards, which, first established here by Queen Elizabeth, have since been extended from time to time by her successors, and considerable improvements are being made at the present time (1880). Upnor Castle, now used as a powder magazine, was built upon the opposite side of the Medway for its defence, but to small purpose, as, in 1667, De Ruyter, the Dutch Admiral, sent some of his light ships and some fire-ships to destroy it, and in spite of the guns of the castle burnt and sunk several vessels and carried off a ship of war called the "Royal Charles," creating thereby great alarm in London. The fortifications have since been considerably augmented.

The Arsenal is very extensive, and its appliances and machinery of the best description and upon the largest scale. A duplicate blockmaking machine of Brunel's is kept here in case of any accident happening to that at Portsmouth.

Leaving Chatham, the next place of interest is the venerable city of CANTERBURY (612 miles; Hotels: Fountain, Rose). (Canterbury may be reached also by the South-Eastern Railway from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, and London Bridge stations, from which, in the warm season, express trains leave for Canterbury, going through without stopping.)

en

Formerly the capital and principal residence of the Saxon Kings of Kent, now a cathedral city and the seat of the primacy of all England, and a parliamentary borough, it was first a British and subsequently a Roman station. The Cathedral was commenced here by St Augustine, who was the first Archbishop of Canterbury, and his royal disciple King Ethelbert. It is one of the largest and finest ecclesiastical buildings in England. After being burnt two or three times, it was rebuilt by Archbishop Lanfranc and Anselm, his successor, and afterwards larged and enriched by several succeeding prelates, whence arises the mixed character of its style. The entrance to the cathedral enclosure is through the ancient and curious Prior Goldsmith's Gate, at the end of Mercery Lane. The western towers and the choir are Norman, but the central tower, the nave, the principal entrance to the cathedral, and western transepts, are among the finest existing specimens of the Perpendicular. The choir is very beautiful, and is the longest in England (180 feet). The screen surrounding it is very elaborate. Passing from the choir by the west door of the screen, we enter the north-west transept, or Transept of the Martyrdom. A square piece cut out of the pavement shows the spot where Thomas à Becket was slain, December 29, 1170. Notice the Lady Chapel

and Trinity Chapel behind the choir, the spot chosen for the shrine of Becket. The 13th century windows of this chapel are worthy careful examination. Among the monuments is that of Edward the Black Prince, with his effigy in bronze. Over it hang his gauntlets, helmet, shield, and the scabbard of his sword.

The crypt is entered from the Martyrdom Chapel. At its east end is the chapel of our Lady Undercroft. Here occurred the penance and scourging of Henry II. at the tomb of Becket, and here St Louis of France watched a whole night.

There are numerous and beautiful chapels, and the monuments of archbishops and other illustrious persons are many, there being no less than ten of the former, the most interesting being (beside that of the Black Prince already named) those of Henry IV. and his Queen, the tombs of Archbishops Chicheley, Bourchier, Courteney, the Earl of Somerset, the Duke of Clarence, and Cardinal Pole.

There are many_fine stainedglass windows. The cloisters have been partially restored. The Chapter House is an elegant building. There are several other ancient churches with interesting monuments, St Martin's being said to be the most ancient church in England. Of the old walls Westgate is the sole remnant. Through Mercery Lane, leading from High Street to the Cathedral, pilgrims used to pass in ancient times on their way to the shrine. Hervey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, and Abbot, the late Lord Chief Justice Tenterden, were educated at the Grammar School here. There are some mineral springs of repute near the city.

From Canterbury a branch line

of 244 miles leads to RAMSGATE (Hotels: See "HOTEL LIST") which, like MARGATE (5 miles by local line; Hotels: See "HOTEL LIST"), attracts numbers of Londoners during the whole year. Between Ramsgate and Margate, near the North Foreland, is BROADSTAIRS (Hotel: Albion), also a familiar haunt of the London citizens and others, on account of the excellent sea-bathing it affords. Leaving Canterbury and passing through a most picturesque district, the intense whiteness of the roads bearing testimony to our approach to the chalk cliffs that guard the coast, we arrive at DOVER (Hotels: See "HOTEL LIST"), This is one of the "Cinque Ports," and the nearest point to the French coast. At the eastern limit of the town is the Castle, situated on a hill 320 feet high. Within its walls is comprised an area of about 35 acres, containing buildings of various dates, all now used for the purposes of the garrison. Within a few minutes' walk of Dover, to the south-west, is Shakespeare's Cliff, so called because it is presumed to be the height mentioned in the 4th Act of King Lear." In fine weather, Calais is plainly visible. The trains convey continental passengers alongside the steamers.