architecture is chiefly early English, and the carvings are very elaborate. It is 220 feet long and 70 high. The walls are almost entire, though the edifice is entirely roofless.

It is 4 miles from Tintern to Chepstow. The tourist should stop at a point about half way to Chepstow, and ascend the Wynd-cliff, a hill 970 feet high, on one side of which is a nearly perpendicular precipice. From this elevation a magnificent view is obtained of the valley of the Wye, and the estuary of the Severn.

CHEPSTOW (Hotels: Beaufort Arms, George), situated about 2 miles above the junction of the Wye and Severn, formerly a strongly fortified place of much greater extent. The Castle stands on a cliff rising perpendicularly from the Wye. Its destruction dates from the Civil Wars, during which its garrison made a desperate resistance to Cromwell himself. On the Restoration, Henry Marten, one of those who had sat in judgment upon Charles I., was kept here in confinement more than twenty years, and is buried in the church in which building, amongst the monuments is one of the second Earl of Worcester, of the Beaufort family. tide rises here to a great height, but it is a place of no great commerce. In the town one of the old gateways remains.

The

From Chepstow BRISTOL may be reached in less than an hour by railway, and London in about four hours.

ROUTE 48.

LONDON TO SALISBURY.

83 miles. Fares, first class, 17s. 6d.; second, 12s. 3d.; third, 6s. 11d. Return tickets, 30s., 218., 1 s.

ROM London to Basingstoke (37 miles), see Route reversing the order of the places

mentioned. Leaving Basingstoke, we pass several pretty villages and country houses not deserving particular mention, and reach Whitechurch (591 miles), a town with a population estimated at 1962. Here is a manufactory of paper for Bank of England notes. We pass, on the right, Hurstbourne Park, the residence of the Earl of Portsmouth, and next arrive at Andover (66 miles.) It is a place of considerable antiquity, and, in the neighbourhood, about 2 miles on the left, are the remains of several Roman encampments. Soon after leaving Andover we reach SALISBURY (83 miles). (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). It sprung into existence on the founding of a cathedral here in 1215, and the consequent transfer of the episcopal see from Old Sarum. Seen from any direction, the eye is immediately caught by the graceful spire of its CATHEDRAL, which is the loftiest in the United Kingdom, being 406 ft., and higher than the cross upon the dome of St Paul's. It is the pride of the place and county, and is an admirable specimen of early English architecture. A legend, common to many large buildings, is current here:

"As many days as in one year there be,

So many windows in this church you

see;

As many marble pillars here appear As there are hours throughout the fleeting year;

As many gates as moons one here does view;

Strange tale to tell! yet not more

strange than true."

The number of pillars will be accounted for, to those who know the style in which it is built, by the clusters of graceful shafts of small size, usually of Purbeck marble, grouped around the more substantial columns which are the real support of the edifice.

The Cathedral is in the form of a Greek cross, and the tower which supports the spire rises from the intersection of the choir and nave by the principal transepts. It contains many monuments of bishops and of the old earls of Salisbury. The monument of Bishop Roger is supposed to be one of the oldest existing of its kind. It has been seriously injured upon two occasions by lightning. The cloisters are very large and exceedingly fine. the centre of the east side of the cloisters is the CHAPTER HOUSE. It is an octagon in form, 58 ft. in internal diameter, and 52 ft. high. It has been recently restored at a cost of over £50,000. The sculptures in the spandrels of the arches represent Old Testament history to the time of Moses.

In

The Palace adjoins the Cathedral. There are many old gableended houses, which give a mediæval appearance to those parts of the town where they are found. Among the modern improvements of Salisbury is the institution founded and endowed by the late Mr William Blackmore, of London, a native of this place, which is called the

Blackmore Museum, and is of especial interest to Americans. Mr Blackmore, being in America during the late civil war, hearing that Messrs E. G. Squier and Dr Davis, in order to prevent the dispersion of their collections of American antiquities (the most extensive ever made), had offered them to the Historical Society of New York, and that the price which they demanded was considered too high, purchased them at the price asked, and placed them in the handsome building which he has erected to receive them. To these he has added a great number of primæval antiquities from other sources, and the whole collection is exceedingly instructive to the student of pre-historic times.

Massinger the dramatist, and Dodsworth the antiquary, were natives of Salisbury.

The wonderful structure called by the Saxons STONEHENGE, "the hanging stones," of unknown purpose and antiquity, is on Salisbury plain, about 9 miles north of the city; upon the plain are also many ancient burial-places or tumuli of various forms.

Old Sarum is about 1 mile from Salisbury, on the Marlborough road. It consists simply of an oval entrenchment, with a smaller one, corresponding in outline, within it: the area comprised within the larger is about 27 acres.

From very early times until the passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, this place, without houses or inhabitants, returned two members to Parliament, while some of the great centres of industry and population, such as Birmingham and Manchester, sent none. It was the most flagrant example of a "rotten borough."

ROUTE 49.

LONDON TO EXETER, PLYMOUTH, & LAND'S END. GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY.

From London to Exeter, 1933 miles. Time, 4 hours and 15 minutes. Fares: first, 35s.; second, 25s.; third, 14s. 3d. From London to Penzance, 328 miles. Time, 9 hours and 20 minutes. Fares: first, 63s. 6d.; second, 44s. 6d.; third, 25s. 3d. For that part of the journey from London to Bristol-see Route 45.

HE first place of importance after leaving Bristol is TAUNTON (163 miles from London) (Hotel: London Hotel), an ancient town situated on rising ground above the river Tone. Its chief object of interest is the old castle, now much decayed. Its remains, grounds, and the moat are interesting. In the rooms of the castle is the museum of the Archæological and Natural History Society of Somersetshire. The church of St Mary Magdalene is considered one of the best churches in the perpendicular style in England.

Thirty miles beyond Taunton, 193 from London, is EXETER (Hotels: Clarence; New London), the county town of Devon, a city and bishop's see; having access to the coast by means of a canal 5 miles long, commenced in the reign of Elizabeth, but subsequently lengthened and deepened so as to permit vessels of considerable size to come up to the city. It has no special manufacture. Exeter is very picturesquely situated on the banks of the Exe, and has been a place of import

ance from early British times. It has still, in its buildings, many indications of its antiquity. Its principal feature is its ČATHEDRAL, built upon the site of an older one which was destroyed by 1280, the choir was finished in King Stephen. Commenced in 1318, and the nave in 1327. It contwo short 'transepts, under the sists of a nave, with two side aisles, two low Norman towers, a choir, ten oratories or chapels, and the ing, from east to west, is 408 feet Chapter House. The whole buildin length. The western front is

ornamented with niches and ele

gantly carved effigies of saints and kings, and its facade is one of the most striking in the kingdom. The Chapter-house is a beautiful building, with a handsome oak ceiling, and contains the Cathedral library. Amongst other ancient documents preserved here is the original Exon Domesday Book, and the charter of King Stephen. In the north tower is the Peter Bell," weighing 12,500 lb., and a clock of curious and antique construction; in the south tower is a peal of 11 bells, the power of which may be judged from the fact that the tenor weighs 2000lbs. The interior is very fine, and the effect of the Early English clustered columns of the nave, with their pointed arches supporting the stone roof, is very impressive. The screen, which separates the nave from the choir, is of exquisite workmanship and universally admired.

The tourist will observe the remains of the Castle of Rougemont, said to have been built by William the Conqueror upon the site of an older fortress. Many Roman antiquities have been discovered here. There are several public buildings, and a park, named after Queen Victoria.

[From Exeter the tourist may conveniently reach ILFRACOMBE

by railway. Steamers run frequently from Bristol, Cardiff, and Swansea to Ilfracombe. Here is the ILFRACOMBE HOTEL, an elegant modern establishment on the shore, in the midst of splendid scenery. Its comfort and moderate charges render it a most desirable stopping place. This place may be reached from London by the London and SouthWestern railway direct, or by the Great Western, via Barnstaple.]

After leaving Exeter, we see, on the left, beyond Exminster, Powderham Castle, the seat of the Earl of Devon, surrounded by a park of 10 miles in circumference. Here, it is said, William III. passed a night while on his way to London, after the revolution of 1688.

DAWLISH (206 miles), (Hotels: London, York), is one of the most delightful watering-places in England. The scenery inland, and the views along the coast, are alike in the highest degree attractive. The next station is TEIGNMOUTH (209 miles), (Hotels: Royal, Queen's). This is also a much frequented watering-place, and a town of great antiquity. At NEWTON JUNCTION there is a branch to TORQUAY, 6 miles distant, a noted place of resort (Hotels: See "HOTEL LIST"). It is sometimes called from its mild temperature, the Montpelier of England. The situation is very fine, and much has been done to make it an attractive winter residence. The scenery is fine, and the vicinity abounds in charming excursions. It has a theatre, concert rooms, libraries, and news rooms, and a museum. The church of St John is a magnificent edifice. As a winter residence for invalids it has been ranked by eminent authorities with the Undercliff and Hastings. TOTNESS is a town

of about 4000 inhabitants, on the river Dart. We see the ruins of its ancient walls and castle. At a distance of two miles, on the left, are the fine remains of Berry Pomeroy Castle, the property of the Duke of Somerset.

PLYMOUTH (246 miles), (Hotels: See "HOTEL LIST"). Plymouth, Stonehouse, and Devonport, with their suburbs, may be treated as one town, being as intimately united as London, Westminster, Southwark, and Lambeth; although, since the Reform Bill, Devonport and Stonehouse, exceeding Plymouth in population, have been incorporated, and, like it, return two members to Parliament. Plymouth is the easternmost of the three, at the head of the Sound, and is the commercial port, while the principal Government establishments are situated in Devonport. The harbour comprehends the sound and its various arms. The estuary of the Tamar, called Hamoaze, forms a harbour 15 fathoms deep at low tide, and four miles long, for war ships; and the estuary of the Plym, chiefly used by merchant ships, transports, &c., is another, called Catwater, capable of accommodating an immense number of vessels. Stretching across the entrance of the sound is a magnificent Breakwater, a mile in length, commenced in 1812; it has cost an enormous sum, but the protection to the harbour which it affords is invaluable. In the middle of the Sound is Drake's or Nicholas Island, strongly fortified. In the town is the citadel, and about it are imposing fortifications which for years have been undergoing extension upon a very large scale. In or near Stonehouse are the Royal Naval Hospital, the Royal Military Hospital, the Marine Barracks, and the magnificent Victualling Yard, on

Cremill Point. The nucleus of Devonport is the Dockyard, with all its accessories as at Portsmouth; first established by William III. At Mount Wise are the residences of the LieutenantGovernor and the Port-Admiral. There are many public buildings worthy of notice, but we must direct attention to some of the more attractive localities in the neighbourhood, first of which is Mount Batten, a promontory which narrows the entrance of the Catwater from the Sound, from which a very extensive prospect is obtained; MOUNT EDGECOMBE (the residence of the Earl who bears that title), whose natural beauties are too far-famed to require more than passing mention; the romantic scenery of Ivybridge, already passed on the road, therefore readily accessible by railway; and the great undulating table-land of Dartmoor, covered with isolated granitic rocks called Tors, and from whose morasses, spring most of the small rivers which flow through the beautiful and fertile valleys of the county.

There is a breed of small ponies peculiar to Dartmoor; the county has a famous race of cattle and sheep; and Devonshire "clotted cream is an especial luxury, which will infallibly be placed before the tourist unasked for, and which we may say, "crede experto," he need not be afraid to try. The country is also celebrated for cider, which it largely exports.

Fourteen miles from Plymouth is the EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE, erected upon the Eddystone rock by Smeaton (commenced in 1756), which has resisted all the tempests that have since assailed it. Its two predecessors, the earliest of which was commenced in 1696, had been destroyed, one in a hurricane, the other by fire.

commo

53 miles beyond Plymouth, is TRURO, considered the capital of Cornwall, population, 11,337. It has a considerable trade in tin and copper ore. FALMOUTH is 11 miles from Truro, on a branch line. (Hotels: Royal, Green Bank), It is a considerable sea-port, with a dious harbour, the entrance to which is defended by Pendennis and St Maur's castles. Before the rise of Southampton, Falmouth was the principal mail-packet station, and its harbour has been selected by the general consent of merchants as one of those at which ships chartered for orders as to a port of discharge, may call to receive them; it is therefore constantly thronged with ships of all nations.

From Marazion Road Station, a few miles before reaching Penzance, is a fine view of St Michael's Mount, rising above the level of the sea to the height of 250 ft. The building upon its summit is formed from the remains of one of the earliest seats of Christianity in Britain, as it is asserted that St Keyne made a pilgrimage to it in 490. The monastery was subject, from the reign of Edward the Confessor, to that of Edward III., to the Abbey of St Michael, on the coast of Normandy, which occupies a very similar position. Portions of it have been castellated, and it has been for two centuries a seat of the St Aubyn family. At high water it can be reached by boat, and at low water by a narrow stone causeway, which connects it with the mainland. This is presumed to be Ictis of Diodorus Siculus, described as the tin depôt and mart of the Britains. From the time of the reputed visit of the Archangel Michael in 495, it was regarded with great veneration for centuries. From its commanding position, in later times, it has a