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the Brighton of the north. has a good port and extensive baths, the best in Scotland (Hotels: Marine, Shaw's). One mile west is Balblair Castle, near which the English army encamped after the battle of Culloden. Continuing on we reach CULLODEN (140 miles), near which place, on Culloden Moor, was fought, in 1745, the battle which put an end to the hopes of the Stuarts. Soon afterwards we reach INVERNESS (144 miles) (Hotels: see HOTEL LIST), the capital of the county, containing about 15,000 inhabitants, and situated on both banks of the Ness, close to Moray and Beauly Firths, and the Great Glen of Scotland. Inverness is a wellbuilt town, and is generally considered the capital of the Highlands. It contains several public buildings, amongst which is the Castle, containing the Court House, and County Rooms, and the New Jail, built on the site of the ancient castle. The Cathedral of St Andrew is a fine edifice. It cost £20,000. Near the Town Hall the tourist will remark an antique cross, at the foot of which is the Clach-na-Cudden, or "tub stone," on which women used to stand for the purpose of filling their pails in the river, by which it was placed. At the mouth of the Ness are the remains of a fort built by Oliver Cromwell, and dismantled after the Restoration. From Castle Hill we see, on the south-west, the dome of Mealfourvonie towering above the rest of the mountains which surround Loch Ness; on the west the hills of Strathconon and Strathglass; on the north, the huge form of Ben Wyvis in Ross-shire; on the east the Firth of Moray is seen losing itself in the sea, and on a clear day we can see the hills in the counties of Sutherland, Caithness, and Banff.

Several interesting excursions

can be made in the neighbourhood. 11⁄2 miles to the west are the basin and entrance of the Caledonian Canal, and 19 miles to the south-west are the Falls of Foyers. (See Route 23.)

ROUTE 30.

PERTH TO ABERDEEN.

(90 miles. Fares by Ordinary Trains, first class, 15s.; second, 11s. 3d.; third, 8s.)

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T a distance of 2 miles from Perth, are the confluence of the Tay and the Almond, we leave, on the right, the ancient palace of Scone, where in early times the kings of Scotland were crowned, and passing Luncarty (4 miles), we arrive at Stanley Junction (7 miles), where a branch line leads to Dunkeld. Near Stanley the tourist will see, on the right, a fall of the river Tay called Campsie Linn. Proceeding on our way we observe, near Cargill (11 miles), the ruins of Kinclaven Castle, captured by Wallace, and shortly afterwards reach Coupar-Angus (154 miles), (Strathmore Arms Hotel), where we find the ruins of a monastery of Malcolm IV. Here, a few years ago, an almanack was discovered in Arabic figures, and dated 1482. (From Coupar-Angus there is a branch line of 5 miles to Blairgow rie). Passing Meigle (21 miles), where, in the churchyard, are some curious carved stones in memory of Vanora, the wife of King Arthur, we reach Glamis (26 miles). Here is a venerable castle, in which Malcolm II. was assassinated in 1034. Its walls are in some parts 15 feet thick, and a

staircase of 143 steps leads to the summit of a lofty tower, from which an extensive view can be obtained. Several relics are here to be seen, comprising numerous pictures and portraits, and, amongst other treasures, the sword and coat of mail of Macbeth, thane of Glamis. In 1537 the young and lovely Countess of Glamis was publicly burnt at Edinburgh on a charge of sorcery.

We next arrive at Forfar (32 miles), the capital of the county of Angus, a manufacturing town; population, 9300; situated near a small lake in the vale of Strathmore. Passing Auldbar Road (37 miles), on the left of which is the hill of Guthrie, where are the remains of a Roman encampment, we cross Lunan Water, and enter a deep cutting, on emerging from which we see, on the left, Guthrie Castle, and reach Guthrie Junction (39 miles), and passing Farnell Road (44 miles), near which, on the left, is Kinnaird Castle, we reach the Bridge of Dun (48 miles). At Dubton (50 miles) is a line to Montrose (3 miles), a seaport town; population, 14,560. Joseph Hume was born here, and a monument is erected to his memory in High street. Passing Drumlithie (66 miles), and Stonehaven (73 miles), where are the ruins of Dunottar Castle, on the summit of an isolated crag, called Fowlsheugh, or "Bird's Rock," from the number of sea-gulls which build their nests in its cavities, and Cove (85 miles), we round the eastern extremity of the Grampian Hills, and crossing the Dee, reach

ABERDEEN. (Hotels: see HoTEL LIST.) Aberdeen is the northern capital of Scotland, and is called "the granite city." It is on the left bank of the Dee. It has become a considerable seaport, and sends out a magnificent fleet of ships, called "Aberdeen

clippers." It has extensive cotton, woollen, and linen factories, a spacious harbour, and excellent docks, nearly a million pounds sterling having been expended upon them. The principal street is Union street, which is more than a mile in length, and is one of the finest in Scotland. Broad street, in which Marischal College, founded in 1593, is situated, contains a house said to have been the residence of Lord Byron for some years during his boyhood. In Castle street, adjoining Union street, is a remarkably handsome building of granite, one of the largest and most imposing edifices in Scotland, known as the County and Municipal Buildings. In the same street the tourist will see The Cross, built in 1686, and ornamented with medallion portraits of the kings of Scotland, from James I. to James VII. About 1 miles from Aberdeen lies Old Aberdeen, containing nothing of interest except King's College, founded in 1494, and the ancient cathedral of St Machar, still used as a parish church. About a mile from Old Aberdeen is the old Brig of Balgownie, said to have been constructed in the reign of Robert I., and consisting of a single arch. It is mentioned in Lord Byron's Don Juan."

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EXCURSION

FROM ABERDEEN TO BALMORAL BY BALLATER.

EAVING Aberdeen by railway we pass, for the greater part of the way to Ballater close by the Dee. At Banchory (17 miles), the Battle of Corrichie was fought in 1562, in

the presence of Queen Mary. Near Lumphanan (27 miles) Macbeth is said to have been buried beneath one of the numerous cairns to be found in the vicinity. After leaving Aboyne (32 miles) we see Loch Kinnord, on one of the islands in which is a ruined castle, supposed to have belonged to Malcolm Canmore. We now reach Ballater (43 miles), (Hotel: Invercauld Arms), the terminus of the railway, a place much resorted to by visitors for its mineral waters and the purity of its air. At the farm house of Ballatrich, on the opposite bank of the Dee, Byron lived in his early youth. "Here was the place where Byron's mother used to retire in the summer months from Aberdeen with her boy. The valley is divided by a wild brook hidden among green alders, and its slopes are hung with the native birch and a few oaks. At the upper end is a farm-house, but it is new; and the farmer, to show me the house in which Byron lived, took me to his farm-yard. The house Mrs Byron inhabited is now a barn or sort of hay-loft, in his yard; but the bed in which Byron used to lie is still there. It is one of the deal cupboard sort of beds, common in highland huts. The farmer said many people came to see the place, and several had tried to buy the bed from him, but that he should think it quite a shame to sell it."-Howitt.

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From Ballater we proceed to BALMORAL CASTLE (9 miles) by coach. The route is through the "Pass of Ballater," and for a greater part of the distance is through a charming tract of country. Abergeldie Castle, a residence of the Prince of Wales, formerly inhabited by the Duchess of Kent, is 7 miles from Ballater. Soon after passing the castle we see the spire of Crathie Free Kirk, and an obelisk to the memory of the late Prince Consort. Near the road, on the right, is the Parish Church of Craithie, where the Queen and her family frequently attend church during their residence at Balmoral. A private bridge crosses the Dee to BALMORAL CASTLE, which is situated below the hill of Craig-na-Gowan. The property was purchased by Prince Albert from the Earl of Fife. It is a castellated mansion, closely resembling the ancient baronial castles of Scotland. It is built of a light-coloured granite, and is said to have been planned by the Prince Consort. It is furnished in a style of simple comfort rather than magnificence. In the entrance hall is

a statue of Prince Albert. The estate contains 10,000 acres, and cost £31,500. Admission to view the interior may be easily obtained, in the absence of the Royal Family.

ROUTE 31.

EDINBURGH TO DUNDEE.

(By the great Tay Bridge).

Distance to Dundee, 48 miles; fares, first-class, 9s. 6d.; second, 78.; third, 6s.

(The distance to Perth by this route is 47 miles; fares, first-class, 9s. 6d.; second, 7s. 4d.; third, 58. 8d.)

EAVING the Waverley Station, we proceed to Granton on the Firth of Forth, where a comfortable saloon ferry boat is ready to take us across the Forth to Burntisland, the crossing occupying 25 minutes. Taking the train at Burntisland, we soon reach (20 miles from Edinburgh) Kirkcaldy, an important manufacturing town. We next pass Dysart, and Dysart House, the mansion of the Earl of Rosslyn, and soon reach Thornton Junction, where a line goes off to the east, to Leven and Anstruther. (Near Leven is Largo, the birthplace of Alexander Selkirk, Robinson Crusoe).

Here also a line goes off west to Alloa and Stirling via DUNFERMLINE (Hotel: Royal), once the seat of Government, and favourite residence of the Kings of Scotland. A small fragment of a castle still exists inhabited

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by Malcolm III. (Canmore) in 1057. The church was rebuilt in 1820, and has a fine view over fourteen counties; the nave of the old one still remains, in which lie buried Malcolm Canmore and his queen Margaret, whose shrine is shown. The bones of "The Bruce were reburied under the pulpit in 1818. There are ruins of the Abbey and part of the wall of the Palace which James the First's queen built, where Charles I. was born, and at which place he signed the covenant. It is built on an eminence, and has an irregular appearance, from its having been erected at various periods of time. The great object of attraction is its Abbey, part of which is used as a Parish Church; the rest is in ruins.

Dunfermline has long been celebrated for different branches of weaving, but particularly that of table linen, which is said to be conducted more extensively here than in any other part of the United Kingdom.

The

Passing Markinch Junction (22 miles), we reach (28 miles) Ladybank Junction, where a line goes off west to PERTH. (For description of Perth see Route 28.) Passing CUPAR (34 miles), where are many fine mansions, we reach (40 miles) Leuchars Junction, where a line goes off to the east to ST ANDREWS, 4 miles from the junction (Hotel: Royal), situated in a fine bay near the sea. view of its ruined towers, the sea, and the environs, is very pleasing. Formerly it was the seat of an Archbishopric, an honour which it claimed from possessing the bones of St Andrew. According to Fordun, St Rule or Regulus, who discovered these precious relics in 345, set sail from Patræ or Patras, in Greece, with the intention of carrying them to Constantinople, but, having no chart on board, was wrecked,

after a long and painful voyage, in St Andrews Bay! A church was dedicated to him, and a larger one was built over the prize he brought. This was the foundation of the Cathedral, but the present structure dates only from the 12th century. It was a cross, 350 feet long, of which only the south walls and gable ends are left.

Near this is the ancient tower of St Rule's Church, 180 feet high. It is used as a sea mark; and a light is fixed to the Cathedral for the same object. Close at hand are fragments of an Augustine priory, founded in 1120, and memorable as the place where Robert Bruce held his first parliament in 1309. "The Primate's Seat or Castle is here, overlooking the sea, from a window of which Beaton watched in triumph while his victim Wishart the martyr was dying at the stake."

St Andrews is of much historical celebrity, and rich in memorials of the past. Dr Johnson was here in 1773, in his tour with Boswell; in its streets, "there is," says he, "the silence and solitude of inactive indigence and gloomy depopulation.'

There are three principal streets. Most of the houses are large and antique-looking; at the end of one, on the west side of the town, is an old gate, a remnant of the walls.

Three colleges compose the University, which was founded in 1411. St Salvador (or Saviour's). St Leonard's, founded in 1552; there is an old ruined Gothic church attached to it, and a modern one by the side. The third is St Mary's, which has been restored. About 150 students frequent this University. The library contains upwards of 60,000 volumes.

Resuming our journey at Leuchars Junction, we soon see

the waters of the Firth of Tay and the city of Dundee in the distance. We cross the Firth on the famous TAY BRIDGE, one of the most remarkable engineering works in the world. It is two miles in length, and has a clear height of 88 feet above high water mark. There are 85 spans, varying from 67 to 245 feet. It was opened for traffic in 1878. Immediately after crossing the bridge we enter the station at DUNDEE. For description of which city see Route 28.

(The Tay Bridge was the scene of a terrible disaster on the evening of Sunday, December 28, 1879. During a hurricane nearly half-a-mile of the highest part of the bridge fell into the river below, carrying with it a railway train of seven carriages, containing 70 to 80 passengers, every one of whom, together with the officers of the train, was killed).

ROUTE 32.

EDINBURGH TO MELROSE ABBOTSFORD AND DRYBURGH.

HIS excursion may be made comfortably in one day, leaving Edinburgh by an early train, from the Waverley Station, and taking a carriage at Melrose to Abbotsford (3 miles west), and Dryburgh (4 miles east). Abbotsford House is open on week days from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., or dusk when it occurs earlier than 6 p.m. Admission 1s. It is closed on Sundays, Christmas, and New Year's Day. A carriage from Melrose to Abbotsford and back costs 5s. with

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