row opening. About 2 miles farther, is the wooded island of Eilan Vow, with the remains of a stronghold of the Macfarlanes; and 3 miles beyond, is the Loch Head Pier, where conveyances are in waiting to convey passengers to the Ardlui Hotel, which is beautifully situated. About two miles from Ardlui is the Inveraran Hotel. Coaches leave Ardlui every week-day for Crianlarich, where they join the railway to Oban. Glencoe and Oban are described in Routes 21, and

24.

Leaving Inversnaid for Balloch Pier, the steamer touches at TARBET (Tarbet Hotel). It is the landing-place for passengers destined to Inverary, viâ Glencroe, and to Oban via Inverary. The last-named route is adopted by many tourists going to Oban instead of the route by steamer (Route 27). From Tarbet we have the finest view of Ben Lomond (3192 ft.), which is nearly opposite across the loch. The ascent may be made conveniently from this place. The distance to the summit is about 4 miles, and the ascent can be made with ponies. The steamer now recrosses the loch, and stops at ROWARDENAN PIER, where there is an excellent hotel, and from which point tourists may conveniently make the ascent of Ben Lomond. Again crossing the loch, the steamer stops at Luss, where there is a good hotel. From this point to Balmaha Pier, we pass on the right Inchtavanash, Inchconnachan, Inchfad,and Inchcailloch; and on the left, Inchlonaig. From Balmaha to Balloch Pier, we pass on the right Inchmurrin, the largest island in the loch, now preserved by the Duke of Montrose as a deer-park; and on the left, Boturich Castle, and about a mile from the pier, Balloch Castle. At Balloch Pier, we take the rail

way for Dumbarton and Glasgow. (See Route 13).

ROUTE 27.

EDINBURGH TO STIRLING, CALLANDER, LOCH AWE, AND OBAN.

That part of this route between Edinburgh and Callander is described in Route 26.

HE distance from Callander to Oban is 70 miles. The railway Iwas finished to Oban

in 1880. Leaving Callander the train passes close to Lake Vennachar, and then skirts the base of Benledi, and goes through the famous Pass of Leny to Loch Lubnaig, a sheet of water five miles in length by one mile broad. Nine miles from Callander the line crosses the river Balvaig, and we soon reach the station of Strathyre. Lochearnhead is soon passed at a great height. We now have fine views of Loch Earn. We soon pass through the gloomy Glen Ogle, where great engineering dif ficulties were encountered in building the line, and at the upper end of the glen reach the station for Killin, the town being 4 miles away. From Killin to Tyndrum, a distance of over 17 miles, we pass Loch Dochart, and have fine views of Ben More above it. Twelve miles from Killin we pass through the valley of Strathfillan, and soon reach TYNDRUM, whence a coach runs to Ballachulish, through the PASS OF GLENCOE (see Route 24). Twelve miles further on we reach DALMALLY, and a little way beyond cross the head of Loch Awe by a costly

viaduct. At the northern extremity of the loch is Kilchurn Castle, built by the ancestor of the Argyll family. From Dalmally to Taynuilt is 13 miles. Not long after quitting the former place we enter the Pass of Brander, which is about three miles in length. In the Pass is the Bridge of Awe, the scene of Scott's" Highland Widow." From near this point Ben Cruachan is easily ascended. The fishing in this region is excellent.

Three miles from Taynuilt we reach Loch Etive, soon after which we reach Connell Hotel and Ferry. We soon see the ruins of Dunstaffnage Castle and presently reach Oban. (See Route 21).

ROUTE 28.

EDINBURGH TO DUNDEE

(BY STIRLING).

(95 miles; fares, first class, 9s. 6d.; second, 7s. 4d.; third, 4s. 2 d.)

HIS route is the same as Route 26, as far as DUNBLANE. After passing this station, we pass on the right Sheriffmuir, a moorland tract, where, in 1715, the Duke of Argyll, who commanded the Royalist army, fought a battle with the rebels under the Earl of Mar. Each general retired from the contest, believing himself beaten, and each subsequently claimed the victory. This incident forms the subject of a humorous song from the pen of Robert Burns.

We next reach Greenloaning (45 miles). Just after passing which, we leave, on the left, Ardoch House. The park attached

to the mansion contains the celebrated Roman Camp of Ardoch; the remains of which are clearly defined, and occupy an extent of more than 300 square yards. A few minutes later, Crieff Junction, where a line goes off to the north, nine miles, to CRIEFF. (Hotels: Drummond Arms, Hydropathic Establishment.) A town of more than 4000 inhabitants, beautifully situated on the sloping bank of the river Earn, with delightful views. In the neighbourhood is Drummond Castle, the ancient seat of the Perth family. There are several other fine country seats near Crieff. The late William Cullen Bryant, the American poet, in writing to the New York Evening Post an account of a visit to Perthshire, thus describes the scenery in the neighbourhood of Crieff-"If there are any who desire to pass the entire summer without the uncomfortable sensation of being too warm, I can conscientiously recommend them to a sojourn in this beautiful region. The air is never made sultry by the dogstar; it is invigorating and healthful, and even in the proverbially moist atmosphere of this island there is no complaining of dampness here, for less rain is said to fall in Crieff than in almost any other part of Scotland." As we approach Perth, the Grampian Hills increase in height, and become more and more distinct to the north and west, while the horizon on our right is bounded by the Ochill Hills. Near Blackford (51 miles), we remark, on the right, Kincardine Castle. Passing Auchterarder (55 miles), celebrated as the place where the proceedings were held which led to the establishment of the Free Church of Scotland, we reach Forteviot (62 miles), near the confluence of the May Water and the Earn, and observe, on the left,

Dupplin Castle, the residence of the Earl of Kinnoull. Beyond Forgandenny (65 miles), we enter a tunnel 1 mile long, cut through the Hill of Moncrieffe, and, on emerging, have a beautiful view of the approach to PERTH (69 miles), (Hotels: see HOTEL LIST), situated on the right bank of the river Tay, with a population of about 27,000. On the north and south of the plain surrounding the town, are two tracts of meadow land of considerable extent, called respectively the North and South Inch, connected by the old bridge of ten arches, which crosses the Tay between them. Perth was considered the capital of Scotland until the reign of James I., who was assassinated here. It is supposed to have been originally built by the Romans under Agricola. The principal buildings and public monuments are:-the County Hall, built on the site of Gowrie House, where the conspirators who devised the "Gowrie Plot" sembled; the building erected in 1823, in honour of Mr Marshall, the then provost of Perth, and containing, on the ground floor, the Public Library, and above it, the Museum of the Literary and Antiquarian Society; the Academy; the Free-Masons' Hall, &c. The Queen inaugurated, in 1864, the statue erected in memory of the late Prince Consort. The suburbs of Perth afford many agreeable excursions. The views from Moncrieffe Hill, on the right bank of the Tay, and Kinnoull Hill, on the left bank, are particularly fine. Visits may be conveniently made to Dupplin Castle, the Bridge of Earn, Pitcaithly Wells, and the Palace of Scone, the seat of Lord Mansfield (2 miles), built on the site of the ancient palace of the Kings of Scotland, and where are preserved, amongst other curiosities, the bed of James

as

VI. (James I. of England), another bed, covered with red velvet, reputed to have been embroidered by Mary, Queen of Scots, while confined in Loch Leven Castle, the Beauvais tapestry, and several valuable pictures, &c. The great gallery, about 150 feet long, occupies the site of the hall where the sovereigns were crowned, seated on the stone brought from Dunstaffnage, and now in Westminster Abbey.

Leaving Perth our route, skirting for part of the distance the Firth of Tay, and passing few objects of interest, brings us to, 952 miles,

DUNDEE (48 miles). (Hotels: *ROYAL, best; British.) This town is considered the third in Scotland in respect of population, and second in regard to its manufacturing industry, and the extensive import and export trade carried on with all parts of the world. Its linen trade is the largest in the United Kingdom. The jute trade has grown of late years to enormous dimensions, one of the works alone employing 5000 hands. Independently of its tidal harbours, its wet docks cover an area of upwards of 33 acres. In addition to these are spacious dry docks, wharves, and shipbuilding yards, besides numerous large factories and ironworks. At the north end of the harbour stands the Royal Arch, erected as a memorial of the visit paid by the Queen in 1844. Amongst the public buildings are the Royal Exchange, the Town Hall, the Court-House, the Albert Institute (a memorial to the late Prince Consort, with museum, picture gallery, and free library), and the Gymnasium. The Esplanade, or sea wall, forms a spacious and delightful promenade. Balgay Park, in the west end, is a much frequented resort, affording de

lightful views of the environs. In the Nethergate the tourist will find St Mary's Church, with its venerable tower rising to a height of 156 ft. The monastery of which this tower formed a part is said to have been erected by the Earl of Huntington, brother of William I. of Scotland, surnamed "The Lion," as a thankoffering for his providential escape from shipwreck when on his way home from the Crusades. Dudhope Castle, in which the constables of the borough formerly resided, is now converted into a barrack near it is a handsome building called the Royal Infirmary. Both are situated on the slope of Dundee Law, a hill rising upwards of 530 feet, from the summit of which we see, towards the north and west, the Sidlaw Hills, and, at a greater distance, the heights of the Grampians; while on the south and east we look over the mouth of the Tay, the town of St Andrews, in Fifeshire, and the shores of the German Ocean. In the neighbourhood we see, on the north-east, Baxter Park, containing about 38 acres, thrown open to the inhabitants as a promenade and place of amusement through the liberality of Sir David Baxter, whose statue is erected in the centre; and, about a mile beyond, the cemetery, in which we observe several tasteful monuments. Near Baxter Park stands Morgan's Hospital, a free school for poor boys who are natives of Forfarshire, resembling in its scheme Heriot's Hospital at Edinburgh.

Cowgate Port is the solitary remnant of the ancient walls once surrounding the town. Here it is said that Wishart the reformer used to preach during the continuance of the plague which fell upon Dundee in 1544.

Dundee acquired the title of the "Second Geneva," from its

zeal in the cause of the Protestant faith. It was the first of all the towns of Scotland to renounce the Roman Catholic religion.

ROUTE 29.

PERTH TO INVERNESS.

(144 miles. Fares, first class, 24s.; second class, 18s.; third class, 12s.)

left, the

T a distance of 2 miles, near the confluence of the Almond and the Tay, we leave, on the palace of Scone, and, crossing the road that leads to Dunkeld, see on the opposite side of the river Oliver Castle. Passing Stanley Junction (7 miles) we reach DUNKELD (15 miles), (Hotels: Athol Arms, Birnam), a town of about 1500 inhabitants, situated on the left bank of the Tay, in the midst of a valley completely surrounded by mountains of considerable height, the sides of which are clothed from base to summit with woods. Conspicuous amongst them we notice, on the west, Craigievenan, and, on the north, Craigiebarns. Dunkeld contains the ruins of a Gothic cathedral, whose choir, having been restored by the liberality of the late Duke of Atholl, is now converted into a parish church. In the chancel is a stone figure of a knight in armour, supposed to be the effigy of the notorious Earl of Buchan, natural son of Robert II., surnamed the "wolf of Badenoch," who burnt the cathedral of Elgin.

A short distance off, on the same bank of the Tay, is the ancient palace of the Dukes of

Athole. A modern structure was commenced by a former duke, but since his death, in 1830, no further progress has been made towards it completion. The spacious grounds surrounding the palace abound in rural attractions of every description. Guides are in attendance to escort visitors to the various scenes of interest, at a charge of 2s. 6d. for each person, or 1s. each when the party exceeds two persons.

About 1 mile from Dunkeld is the Hermitage, called also Ossian's Hall, overlooking the river Brann, and commanding a beautiful view of the cascade formed by the river at this point. The walls and ceiling of this grotto are covered with mirrors, which reflect the fall many hundred times over. Farther up the stream we come to Ossian's Cave, and above it another cascade of about 50 feet high, where the Brann, rushing beneath Rumbling Bridge, precipitates itself in several distinct falls.

At Ballinluig (24 miles) a line goes off to Aberfeldy. (Hotel: Breadalbane Arms.) Near the hotel are the FALLS OF MONESS, famous as Burns' "Birks of Aber feldy."

At Pitlochry (28 miles) we see Faskally House near the confluence of the Tummel and the Garry. Close by is the magnificent new Athole Hydropathic Establishment completed in 1879, at a cost of £100,000. It is situated in a charming and health ful region, and offers every inducement for a prolonged stay. The grounds are 25 acres in extent. The region abounds in pleasant walks and drives to interesting and historical places, among them the famous Pass of Killiecrankie. The next station is Killiecrankie (32 miles), in whose famous Pass, in 1689, Gra

ham of Claverhouse was shot by a concealed assassin, after gaining a victory over the royalists. We presently arrive at Blair Athole (Hotel: Athole Arms), (35) miles), at a distance of 3 miles from which are the Falls of Bruar, mentioned by Burns in a poem addressed to the Duke of Athole, petitioning for the improvement of the scene by plantations, which have since been made in accordance with the poet's request. Close to the hotel is the entrance to Blair Castle, the mansion of the Duke of Athole, open from 9 to 6, guide accompanies visitors. Blair Athole is a favourite resort of tourists for its fine scenery, and the excellent sport to be had in the neighbourhood. About 1 mile from Dalwhinnie (583 miles) is Loch Ericht, 20 miles in length, and 1 mile wide, to the north of which we observe a mountain named Benalder. In one of its caves Prince Charles Edward concealed himself for some time after the disastrous battle of Culloden. next reach Kingussie (71 miles), (with a good hotel), and see, on the opposite bank of the Spey, the ruins of Ruthven Barracks, destroyed by the Highlanders in 1746. Two miles distant is Belville House, and near it an obelisk in memory of Macpherson, the translator of Ossian. At Aviemore (83 miles) passengers descend who desire to visit Cairngorm, or go by the mountains to Braemar. At Boat of Garten a line goes off to Strathspey. We find nothing worthy of mention until our arrival at Forres (1194 miles), a town of 4000 inhabitants, containing several public buildings, and the remains of a castle once the residence of the Earls of Moray. At FORRES we join the Great North of Scotland Railway from Aberdeen to Inver

ness.

We

NAIRN (128 miles) is called