through the tunnel, we see on the left the Pentland Hills, and on the right Donaldson Hospital; afterwards, crossing the River Leith, we leave, on the right, Corstorphine Hill; and pass in succession Corstorphine (3 miles), Gogar (5 miles), and Ratho (81 miles). Here is the junction of the line to Glasgow, Greenock, Ayrshire, &c., via Bathgate. On the right is Kirkliston, the church of which belonged formerly to the Knights Templars. We now cross Almond Water, which separates MidLothian from Linlithgowshire. An agreeable and extensive view is here afforded us, comprising the shores of the Firth of Forth. On the right is Newliston Park, formerly the residence of the Earl of Stair, who was deeply implicated in the tragical massacre of Glencoe. A short distance farther we pass, on the right, the ruins of Niddry Castle. Leaving Winchburgh (12 miles), where Edward II. made his first halt after the Battle of Bannockburn, we reach Linlithgow (17 miles) (see Route 20), Polmont (22 miles), where the direct line to Glasgow branches off, and arrive at Larbert (28 miles), the burial-place of Bruce, the Abyssinian traveller. (Here is a junction with the line from Glasgow to the North.) We then pass Bannockburn (32 miles), where, in 1314, the great battle to which the village owes its fame was fought between Edward II. and Robert Bruce. The scene of this memorable conflict is at a short distance on the left of the station, In a south-westerly direction from the village of St Ninian's, is a hill called Brock's Brae, on which the tourist will find the "Bore Stone," said to mark the spot where the standard of Bruce was planted during the battle. To the westward is Gillies Hill, where were stationed the campfollowers who eventually decided the fortunes of the day. When the contest had been carried on for some hours with varying success, they unexpectedly made a move to the front: the English, taking them for a fresh army, were seized with a panic and fled, leaving the victory to the Scotch. We presently reach STIRLING (36 miles), a town of about 13,000 inhabitants, situated on the right bank of the Forth. (Hotels: see HOTEL LIST.) This town is one of the four which, according to the provisions of the Act of Union, were stipulated always to remain fortified and garrisoned. The castle stands on the edge of a steep rock, overhanging the Forth and the plain called The Carse of Stirling. It was once a stronghold of great importance; Edward I. besieged it in 1304, and, having taken it with the greatest difficulty, it remained for ten years in the possession of the English, until their defeat at Bannockburn. In the time of the Stuarts it became a royal residence, and was the birth-place of James II. and James V. In the part called the Palace, on the south-east side of the castle, is shown the Douglas Room, where James II. killed the Earl of Douglas for entering into a covenant with the Earls of Ross and Crawford, which he feared would prove prejudicial to his own authority. On the west side is the ancient Chapel Royal, now used as an armoury. From the castle walls we have a wide and attractive prospect, especially from a point near the governor's house called "The Lady's Look-out." On the west is the vale of _Menteith_and the heights of Ben Lomond, Benvenue, Ben-A'an, Ben Ledi, Ben Voirlich, and others of lesser note. On the 66 north and east we observe the Ochill Hills, and, on the south, the Campsie Hills, while immediately beneath us appear the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey, Abbey Craig, surmounted by the Wallace Monument, and the Bridge of Allan. To the north is the Heading Hill," where executions used to take place, and to the south the cemetery contain ing the statues of John Knox and others conspicuous for their exertions in the Presbyterian cause. We notice also the King's Garden, and, farther on, the King's Park. Stirling contains several public buildings, amongst which are Cowan's Hospital, with its quaintly designed garden in the Dutch style; Greyfriars Church, in which James VI. was crowned in 1567, John Knox preaching the sermon on that occasion; Argyll's Lodging, formerly the property of Sir William Alexander (afterwards Earl of Stirling), the founder of the colony of Nova Scotia, and subsequently in the possession of the Earls of Argyll (here the Marquis of Argyll once entertained Prince Charles, afterwards Charles II., by whom he was in later years sent to the scaffold); and Mar's Work, said to have been partially built by the Earl of Mar from the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey. This last is situated near Abbey Craig, and consists only of a tower and gate way. It contains the tomb of James III., restored in 1865 by command of Queen Victoria, and bearing an inscription to that effect. Cambuskenneth Abbey, of the ruins of which only the tower remains, was the burial place of James III. and his Queen. It is a mile from Stirling by the ferry. Leaving Stirling, the railway crosses the Forth, passing on the left the castle hill, and on the right Abbey Craig and the Ochill Hills. A short distance beyond Airthrey, famed for its mineral springs, we reach the Bridge of Allan (39 miles) (Hotels: see HOTEL LIST), a charming village, attracting many visitors during the season to take the waters and baths of Airthrey. The springs are of a saline character, bitter to the taste. The waters are collected in large cisterns formed in a disused copper mine; they are usually drunk hot. The Pump Room, which is very handsome, has baths, reading and billiard rooms, etc. Near by is an excellent hydropathic establishment. The beautiful grounds of Airthrey Castle (Lord Abercromby), are open to visitors on Thursdays. Farther on we pass on the right Keir, and on the left Kippenross. Skirting the pleasantly wooded banks of Allan Water, we reach DUNBLANE (41 miles). Here are the ruins of a cathedral situated on an eminence, the base of which is washed by the river. In a part of the cathedral is the parish church. The ruins are well worth a visit. A mile and a half from Dunblane was fought the celebrated drawn battle of Sheriffmuir. Leaving Dunblane, the first station is Doune (45 miles). The castle is one of the most imposing ruins of its kind in Scotland, standing on a mound at the confluence of the Teith and the Ardoch. Tradition alleges it to have been built by the Regent Murdoch, Duke of Albany, who was afterwards beheaded on the Castle Hill of Stirling. It is square-built, with walls 80 feet high and 10 feet thick. There are several dungeons on the ground flour, and many of the apartments are spacious and in good preservation. The Bridge of Doune, across the Teith, was built, as we are in formed by an inscription on one of its parapets, by Robert Spittal, Tailor to Margaret, wife of James IV., and the founder of Spittal's Hospital at Stirling. have pledged his faith to convey Fitz James "As far as Coilantogle's Ford" and reaching which he challenged him to combat. Armed like thyself with single brand; sword." Leaving Doune, we pass on the right the Braes of Doune, and see Doune Lodge, or Cambuswallace, the residence of the Earl of Mo-See, here all vantageless I stand, ray; farther on, to the left, are the ruins of Kilmaldock Church; and, still farther, Cambusmore, where Sir Walter Scott, in his youth, was a frequent guest. We now cross the Keltie, and, passing on the left the remains of a Roman camp, reach Callander (52 miles), (Hotels: Dreadnought, M'Gregor's), situated on the banks of the Teith. Here our route by railway ends. (The CALEDONIAN RAILWAY was completed to OBAN in May 1880. Circular tickets are issued from Edinburgh and Glasgow to Oban by railway, and then by Mr David MacBrayne's steamers to Glasgow.) To the north, above the village, is Callander Craig, precipitous and partially covered with wood. Towards the north-west we see the junction of the rivers Vennachar and Lubnaig, the woods of Gartchonzie, and the beautiful Pass of Leny,-Ben Ledi towers before us to the height of 3009 feet. On its summit, it is said, heathen rites were in ancient times celebrated in honour of the sun. From Callander we proceed to Loch Katrine, by coach, through scenes described in Scott's poem, "The Lady of the Lake." Leav ing the valley of Bocastle, with the house and grounds of Leny, we advance towards the waterfalls of Gartchonzie, where the Vennachar, issuing from the lake of its name, dashes over a succession of rocks and rushes down to Coilantogle Ford. It was to this spot the poet represents Rhoderick Dhu to We now come in sight of Loch Vennachar (5 miles); it is 5 miles in length by 13 miles in breadth, and on it we observe a small island covered with wood. The lake lies on our left, and Ben Ledi rises aloft on our right. (In a note to the "Lady of the Lake," Sir Walter Scott says, "I took uncommon pains to verify the accuracy of the local circumstances of this story. I recollect, in particular, that to ascertain whether I was telling a probable tale, I went into Perthshire to see whether Fitz James could actually have ridden from the banks of Loch Vennachar to Stirling castle within the time supposed in the poem, and had the pleasure to satisfy myself that it was quite practicable.") The tourist next passes through Garthonzie Wood, "the wood of lamentations," so called from a legend to the effect that a demon, or "water kelpie," appeared there to a number of children, and dragged them with it underneath the waters. Near the west end of the lake, where "Stern and steep The hill sinks down upon the deep; Here Vennachar in silver flows," on the left, on a level headland, is the spot where the forces of Clan Alpine assembled, and a little below, the place where the clan lay in ambuscade till roused by Rhoderick Dhu's whistle. "Instant, through copse and heath, arose Bonnets and spears and bended bows; About a mile beyond Loch Vennachar we see the river Achray flowing out of its parent loch, and the loch itself lying between wooded mountains. Shortly afterwards "Duncraggan's huts appear at last And peep, like moss-grown rocks, half seen. Half-hidden in the copse so green." Leaving on the right an ancient burial-ground, the tourist then reaches the Bridge of Turk (6 miles), leaving which we proceed along the north shore of Loch Achray. To the left we see Benvenue, and, on the right, Ben A'an, and between them stretches the Pass of the Trossachs, "Bristled Territory." We soon reach the Trossachs Hotel (8 miles), from which the route is through a wild glen abounding with crags and ravines, some rugged and bare, others covered with brushwood and trees of various kinds, altogether presenting a scene of most picturesque confusion. "But not a setting beam could glow As we near LOCH KATRINE WE pass, in a ravine, the spot where Fitz James' "gallant grey" fell exhausted. On the left is a range of rocks giving a wonderfully distinct echo. This ravine is called Bealan Duine, and here a fight took place between the natives and a detachment of Cromwell's army. We next arrive at LoCH KATRINE PIER, where a steamer awaits the arrival of the coach. Embarking, we pass Ellen's Isle, the scene of the interview between FitzJames and the heroine of the poem. From this point there is a famous echo, and here we have the best view of Benvenue. The scene before us is thus described in "The Lady of the Lake." Opposite Ellen's Isle, at the base of Benvenue, is the entrance of the narrow gorge leading to Coirnan-Uriskan, or The Goblin's Cave. This is a vast hollow in the mountain side, shut in by huge masses of fallen rocks and the trees and brushwood that have grown up amongst them. Here it was that Ellen raised her "angel hymn,' while concealed by her father, after he had borne her off from Rhoderick Dhu. The scenery around is considered even more charming than that of the Trossachs, though entirely differing from it in its general features. A sullen sound would upward break." Above the Goblin's Cave is Bealach-nam-Bo, or The Pass of Cattle, which may be reached through a chasm in the cave. This pass is shut in by huge crags, covered with aged birch-trees and copsewood of various kinds, Through it the cattle stolen by moss-troopers were conducted towards the Trossachs. The summit of the mountain can be easily reached by an active climber from this point. At the western extremity of the loch we see the aqueduct by which water is carried to Glasgow, a distance of 34 miles. Ben Lomond is seen on the left. We now arrive at Stronachlachar Pier. A coach leaves here at once for Inversnaid, on Loch Lomond, a distance of 5 miles. Leaving Stronachlachar, we pass on the left, Loch Arklet (2 miles), near which huts are pointed out as the residence of Rob Roy, and the birth-place of Helen, his wife. Soon afterwards, descending a steep hill by the side of Arklet water, we reach LOCH LOMOND at Inversnaid pier. (Hotel: Blair's.) Loch Lomond, "the Queen of the Scottish Lakes, is 24 miles long, and 7 miles wide at its southern extremity, while only about a mile in breadth at the northern part; its area is 45 square miles. It varies in depth from about 60 to 600 feet, and its surface is 22 feet above the level of the sea. Its waters are swelled by contributions from several streams, the chief of which is Endrick, from the south-east; the surplus waters are carried off by the Leven, which flows into the Clyde. The lower portion of the Loch is surrounded by a hilly, but well cultivated, and finely wooded country; and the character of the scenery is in the highest degree rich and beautiful. Around the northern portion of the Loch are piled high, wide, and picturesque masses of mountains; Ben Lomond on the east, and the Arrochar Hills on the west. The surface is dotted over with numerous islands, which are finely diversified in their general appearance, and contribute greatly to the exquisite beauty of the scene. "Loch Lomond is unquestionably the pride of our lakes; incomparable in its beauty as in its dimensions, exceeding all others in variety, as it does in extent and splendour, and uniting in itself every style of scenery which is found in the other lakes of the Highlands. I must even assign to it the palm above Loch Katrine, the only one which is most distinguished from it in character-the only one to which it does not contain an exact parallel in the style of its landscapes. As to the superiority of Loch Lomond to all other lakes, there can be no question."-Dr Maculloch. At Inversnaid, close to the pier, is a waterfall, the scene of Wordsworth's "Highland Girl." In front, on the Loch, we observe Inveruglas Isle, with the ruins of a castle, once held by the chief of the Macfarlanes, and several lofty mountains; amongst which we remark Ben Vane, 3004 feet, and Ben Voirlich, 3092 feet high. Tourists who remain over at Inversnaid, may take steamer and see the upper part of the loch. It is 6 miles to its head. ARDLUI (ARDLUI HOTEL, excellent) is the best stopping place. About one mile from Inversnaid, on the same side, is "Rob Roy's Cave," once the retreat of that outlaw, an extensive cavern with a nar |