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families, found ourselves floating on the surface of the great Columbia, in two small canoes, on our way up to the mission station in the Wallamette settlement, having taken nothing with us but blankets, and provisions to make us comfortable on our journey. It was in the season of high water, and the bottom lands, along the river, were all overflown. Conducted by our pilots, we crossed the main channel of the Columbia to the south side; and running our canoes in among the cottonwood timber, we crossed a point of land which lies fifteen or twenty feet above low water mark, but which was then several feet under water, and coming to a kind of promontory covered with a dense forest of fir, we ran ashore and made our first encampment in Oregon. By the aid of flint, steel, and powder, we soon had the forest illuminated; then the women prepared supper of fried meat and boiled potatoes, bread, butter and tea, and spread it out upon the ground, where all partook of it with great relish. Next our bedding was prepared, and after recruiting our fire, we prepared to sleep. The roar of the wind through the thick branches of the fir trees, whose tall tops were waving gracefully over our heads, the hoot of the large owl, and the howling of the wolf, frequently broke in upon our slumbers, but the morning found us unharmed. In preparing to leave camp, the business of the morning afforded each of us considerable amusement by our awkwardness, arising from unacquaintance with this manner of living; but we concluded that we should soon become initiated, and make very good soldiers.

Taking to our canoes at six o'clock, on the 15th, we proceeded a mile, and found ourselves in the Wallamette river, having saved a few miles of rowing, by crossing the point. Found the scenery along the river exceedingly wild as we ascended, the shores rocky, and lined with dense forests of fir, and but little land adapted to cultivation. At one o'clock we arrived at the Wallamette Falls, called by the Indians Tum Water. Here we found about one hundred and fifty of the most filthy and degraded looking beings in human shape, that our eyes ever beheld. Surely, thought we, it will require the

labor of many years to elevate these Indians from the depth of their pollution into a civilized and christian people. The falls are about thirty feet perpendicular, beautiful indeed, affording almost unlimited hydraulic privileges, yet the Indians held the place in unmolested control. The Hudson's Bay Company, however, had built a small block-house on the left bank, as we ascend the river, for their accommodation, in passing up and down. Here we were obliged to make a portage of half a mile, which occupied us till nearly night; and we found it exceedingly fatiguing to carry all our things over the rocks, for half a mile, on our backs. We had accomplished it, however, at five oclock, and proceeding up four miles farther, we made our second encampment on Rock Island, having traveled but twenty-five miles since morning. The weather being fine, we enjoyed another comfortable night, and the following day, at one o'clock, P. M., arrived at Champoeg, which is the lower part of the settlement on the Wallamette river. The mission station was sixteen miles above, and, according to arrangement, horses were sent down to meet us. They arrived at three o'clock, and at four all were mounted, several of us taking children on before us, and the cavalcade started off upon a gallop over the plains. As we were well mounted, Mrs. Hines and myself took the lead, and passing over the most delightful country that we ever beheld, two hours and a half brought us into the midst of three little log houses which stood on the banks of the river, and known as the principal station of the Oregon mission.

Here we arrived in safety on the 16th day of June, 1840, and were cordially welcomed by the missionaries on the ground, and made as comfortable as their circumstances would admit.

Remaining two days in the family of Rev. David Leslie, I then took possession of a small room in a house about one mile from the station, built for a mission hospital, where we again commenced keeping house, and where I designed my family to remain until I had performed an exploring tour through the country of the Umpquas.

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CHAPTER VI.

Exploring tour to the Umpqua — Preliminaries - Departure - Delightful country Encampment Amusing incident Fording river Mountain La Beache Elk river-Umpqua fort - Indian fight - Frenchman in charge - Meeting with the Indians-Old chief's confession- Hostile Indians - Danger of going among them Resolved to go Voyage to the coast - Indians accompany us - Interesting encampment Indians on the coast - Meeting with them - Speeches of the chiefs Results of the meeting Talk to God Solicitude of our Protectress Watching Presents Departure Description of the country Return to the fort Story of the Frenchman's wife - Dangers we had escaped Perilous adventures of the mountaineers Tour continued Mountainous country -- Fording Elk river Giant tree - Aromatic tree Umpqua Indians Head chiefs -- Shocking story Burst of heathen passions Difficulty with guide Settled Fear of treachery Confirmed Request of We-We Refused -- Warning - An Indian can be honest - Unhappy results of not trusting him -- Night Lost in a forest Sabbath Indians again - Homeward route - Fine country - Delightful scenery Home.

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SOME time in the winter of 1837, before Rev. Mr. Lee left Oregon to return to the United States after a reinforcement, he visited the Umpqua tribe of Indians for the purpose of ascertaining their number and situation; but it being in that season of the year when it is next to impossible to explore the country, in consequence of the abundance of water which every where presents itself in the way of the traveler, he could not extend his own personal observations far, but was under the necessity of depending for information concerning the objects of his visit, upon the few Indians with whom he came in contact on his route, and a Frenchman who had charge of a trading post belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, and situated on the Umpqua river. Such was the information given and the confidence reposed therein, that Mr. Lee, before going to the States, had come to the determination that, if the mission was again reinforced, he would establish a station somewhere in the

vicinity of Umpqua fort. Accordingly Mr. Kone and myself were appointed to labor as missionaries among the Umpqua Indians. As Mr. K. was a millwright by trade, it was intended by Mr. Lee to retain him for some months on the Wallamette, to assist in the erection of the mission mills; and that I should proceed and explore the country, select a location for the station, and prepare for the removal of our families.

Hearing reports from that country of a discouraging character, Mr. Lee resolved to accompany me on the tour, and satisfy himself with regard to the propriety of carrying out his original design.

Dr.

It should be understood that the Umpqua country lies to the south of the Columbia river, about two hundred and twenty-five miles. The river which gives its name to the country, rises in that ridge of mountains which divides the lower from the upper country, and after running about two hundred miles, empties into the Pacific ocean near the forty-third parallel of north latitude. It waters quite an extensive country, as yet to white men but little known. Having made arrangements for the comfort and safety of our families in our absence, we found ourselves prepared to start on our tour on the 18th day of August, 1840. Our party consisted of Rev. Jason Lee, Dr. Elijah White, myself, and an Indian guide, whom we designated by the name of "Captain. White, however, designed to accompany us no farther than the Umpqua fort, and then return. Our mode of traveling, of course, was on horseback; and, in addition to our riding horses, we had three for carrying our baggage, and four spare ones, that in case of the loss or failure of any, we might not be left destitute. This is a precaution indispensably necessary to be taken by all who would secure their ultimate safety in traversing the extended plains of this wild country. As this was the first prairie expedition with which I had ever been connected, it was necessary for me, at the outset, to learn the peculiarities of the mode of traveling; and, as Mr. Lee had performed two journeys across the Rocky mountains, he was well qualified to be my instructor.

Watching Mr. Lee closely while he was packing our bedding, provisions and cooking utensils, on the backs of the horses, I soon observed that it required considerable skill and practice to wind the lash rope around the pack and the body of the horse, so as to secure the burden to the back of the animal in case of fright, stumbling, or running against any obstruction, all of which, in the process of binding the packs, it is necessary to guard against with the utmost precaution. Mr. Lee having magnified his office as our instructor, by packing the three horses himself, we all mounted, and each man with his gun athwart of the pommel of his saddle, our little cavalcade put off, on a moderate gallop, across the beautiful and fertile plain, lying in the rear and south of the mission premises. At noon we arrived at a place called by the Indians, Chemekete, where the Oregon mission have commenced erecting mills, and where it is in contemplation to establish the Mission Manual Labor School. This place is ten miles up the Wallamette river from the old mission station, and is one of the most delightful locations in the whole valley. The fertile plains surrounding it, the enchanting nature of its scenery, and the fine water privilege afforded by the beautiful rivulet that meanders through it, render it a place of considerable future importance. Having dined with the family of W. W. Raymond, who is employed in forwarding the saw mill, we proceeded on our course, being south, through a country beautifully diversified with rising grounds, varying from the gentle undulation to the majestic hill, fertile valleys, variegated with here and there a grove of a species of red oak, and now and then a stately fir which. had braved the fury of a thousand storms. Occasionally could be seen the fallow deer and prairie wolves, scampering in almost every direction, as we passed along the narrow Indian trail, which, in its serpentine course, led us farther and farther from our habitation. At nightfall we encamped near one of the tributaries of the Wallamette river, called "Santa Am's Fork." This is a fine. stream of water, being several rods wide, and coming down from the mountains of the east, it is said to form a

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