over difficulties and perils; his mission, one of peace and benevolence; the object, an extension of knowledge, and avowedly, the conversion of the heathen. The evil consequences following these discoveries have no connection with them.

(To be continued.)

DESCRIPTION OF JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT.-By Commander James Wood, R.N., late of H.M.S. Pandora.

BEFORE entering into a detailed description of the Straits on either side of Vancouver Island, it may be as well to take a general view of them.

Juan de Fuca Strait divides Vancouver Island from North Oregon, and forms the southern boundary of our British possessions on the western coast of North America.

The Greek pilot whose name they bear may well be excused, if in 1592 when the belief of a water communication between the two oceans somewhere in these latitudes was prevalent, he congratulated himself on viewing this noble estuary for the first time, on having found the long sought passage which was to unite the Atlantic and Pacific, and open a high road by the north to China. After exploring so many miles of coast which offered not a trace of the wished for Strait, it was rather exciting to behold an opening from twelve to thirteen miles broad with a clear horizon to the eastward, and a depth of water that supplied no clue to its real nature. His mistake, however, was at length discovered, and Vancouver in 1792, with his customary energy and accuracy, both explored and described it. With the exception of Lieut. Wilks's account of the United States Exploring Expedition which does not throw much light on the navigation, the seaman had no other guide for the Straits than what his account afforded up to 1846, when they were examined and surveyed by Her Majesty's ships Herald and Pandora. Straight as they are, and for the most part free from danger, Vancouver's description was sufficient as far as the southern shore was concerned; but, on the northern or island side, by the time the Race Rocks were reached, forty-eight miles from the entrance, some better guide would be necessary. A few miles beyond these rocks, the Hudson's Bay Company have established a trading fort and farm at a small port called Victoria, which bids fair within a few years to become their principal establishment in these parts, and from its natural advantages to assume a prominent position amongst the fast growing settlements in North-west America. Bread, meat, vegetables, and other supplies may be obtained there at reasonable prices.

On the southern shore there is mostly soundings and anchorage sufficient to enable vessels to wait a tide all the way to Dungeness, also several bays which may be used for the same purpose, when beating either up or down. The first is Neah Bay, close to Cape Classet, Callum Bay, Freshwater Bay, Port Angelos, and Dungeness. From this point to Wilson Point (between which, and Partridge Point is the entrance to Admiralty Inlet) the coast line is more irregular, and indented by two harbours, one with a very narrow entrance, but having a considerable area of deep water inside. The other Vancouver's "Port Discovery," an extensive and secure harbour, off which is Protection Island.

In most of these bays and harbours water of good quality may be obtained in sufficient quantities. Indeed, throughout the Straits this important article is easily procured.

On the northern shore there is less shelter, the coast line being more rocky, less indented by bays, with the deep water in general running closer

up to it than on the southern side. The prevailing winds also are from the southward of west, making it a lee shore, and the trend of the coast from Cape Classet being nearly south, leaves it open to the long and heavy southwest swell of the Pacific. This is experienced as far up as Sooke Bay, where the opposite shore affords protection, and from whence the coast begins to be more broken by bays and harbours.

Nearly opposite to Cape Classet is Port St. Juan, a fine and deep harbour, but open to the south-west and exposed to the full effect of both wind and swell. From this port the coast runs in one unbroken line to Point Otter, which forms the southern extreme of Sooke Bay, beyond which is Sooke Inlet leading into Sooke Basin. The next indentation is Becher Bay, beyond which lies Bentinck Island, and off this island are the Race Rocks forming the most southern point of Vancouver Island. Neither Sooke Inlet nor Becher Bay, should be attempted without a pilot, the entrance of the former is narrow and intricate, the latter full of rocks and the water deep.

From Bentinck Island the coast takes an abrupt turn to the northward, forming several bays and harbours; the hills also recede here from the coast line, leaving a more level country. The first is a long narrow inlet, called Port Pedder, the northern point of which forms a cove, well sheltered from all but south-easterly winds, having good anchorage, and being convenient for awaiting the turn of the tide off the Race Rocks. Beyond this is Royal Bay, also a good and extensive anchorage; at the bottom, or north-east corner, of which is the entrance to Esquimalt Harbour, a safe and excellent port. From Sailor Point forming the eastern extreme of Royal Bay, the coast trends to the eastward again, this also forms the western point of the entrance into Port Victoria, a narrow, intricate, as well as shallow harbour; but which, though so small, the Hudson's Bay Company have selected as the site of their establishment from the superior nature of the adjacent soil. Amongst its other disadvantages, off the entrance is a dangerous patch of rocks called Brotches Ledge, with two feet water over it. The seaman may be cautioned here, that in common with all rocky shoals and dangers in these latitudes, this ledge is well marked by kelp, indeed, the kelp line, to a stranger is in every instance the danger line, and should be avoided, for though it will sometimes show in a depth of even forty fathoms, it is always indicative of the presence of rocks, and should not be ventured into unless well known.*

From Port Victoria the coast is low, and indented as far as Point Gonzales, off which is Trial Island. From this point it trends northward, forming a deep but rocky and shallow bay, called for this reason Shoal Bay; it is closed up by two low rocky islets, called Discovery and Chatham Islands. The northern horn is named Cadbro Point, from whence the coast trends to the north-westward, forming the western shores of Haro Strait.

On both sides the topographical features are nearly similar. The hills mostly rise from low sandstone cliffs at the waters' edge, broken by nume rous valleys, the sides of which are covered with dense forests of fir, oak, cedar, &c. On the southern side, they are terminated by the snowy peaks of the Mount Olympus range, where the hardy pines may still be seen forcing their way. Those on the northern side, though quite as precipitous, are not so high, showing no trace of snow in the summer months. After passing the Race Rock, where the Strait opens out into a great Basin, the eastern horizon, in clear weather is bounded by a snowy range of fantastic peaks, far above which towers the immense white cone of Mount Baker.

When running in for the Strait of Juan de Fuca, two precautions must be observed. The first is that Cape Flattery does not, as is generally supposed

The same remark is applied by Capt. King to Magellan Strait, and by Capt. Sullivan, to the Falkland Island.-ED.

form the southern point of the entrance, but is a projection of no particular elevation, in latitude 48° 06' N. and longitude 124° 47′ W. or seventeen miles to the southward of Cape Classet, which is the true southern ex. treme, and is situated in latitude 48° 23'N. and longitude 124° 44′W.

The other is, to allow sufficiently for the usual southerly set, so as to keep in the parallel of 48° 28', when the Strait will be well open, then make for the centre of it, as should the wind fall light, (as it mostly does at sun-set in fine weather,) before Neah Bay can be reached, the vessel will probably be set by the ebb tide, towards Duncan Rock, and its off lying danger, Duntze Rock. These are to be avoided by all possible means, as this tide sets directly over towards them, the former being nearly covered at high water, and the latter having but 2 or 3 fathoms over it, and occasionally a heavy sea, breaking on it. There is also very deep water close to them; whilst farther to the north-west, towards the Vancouver side, the kedge may be let go in from 40 to 60 fathoms.

Vessels from Neah Bay, bound up the Straits to Victoria, should shape a course to make the Race Rocks, bearing S.84° E. forty-three miles from the north point of Wyadda Island, and when one mile north of this point, an E b.S course will lead one and half miles to the southward of them. Having run that distance, they should then haul up for Royal Bay, as, unless about to enter Victoria or Esquimalt harbour, this is the best anchorage.

As the winds are mostly from the westward, it is generally necessary to beat down; in which case vessels leaving Victoria or Royal Bay, should start so as to be off the Race Rocks at the first of the ebb, but failing in this there is good anchorage and shelter in the Cove, at the south-west end of Parry Bay, where they may await the turn of the tide. By being off these rocks at the first of the ebb, the anchorages either in Sooke, Pillar, or Callum Bay, may be reached before the flood makes. When leaving either of these anchorages, it is advisable to keep on the southern shore, during the rest of the beat to Neah Bay, which may generally be reached in one tide more.

When leaving Neah Bay with an ebb tide, to beat out of the Strait, care must be taken as before remarked, to avoid being set towards the dangers off Tatouch Island.

It may be as well to remark here, that the current, or tide stream within the Strait, seems to be affected by various causes, and is consequently subject to great irregularities. At springs there is generally a strong and tolerably regular set of the tidal stream, six hours each way, beginning on the shore rather sooner than in the offing, but at Neaps the tides are not so regular, for, when beating down, I have passed through even three different streams within as many miles of the land.

Between the points at the entrance, the current is affected by the coast stream which set across them, the flood going to the northward, the ebb to the southward.

Between point Angelos and the Race Rocks, the tide runs about three knots especially off the latter, and must be allowed for when hauling round them for Victoria. Beyond this the tides are not so strong, but move rather slower through the great basin before mentioned, but even here, off all the points, such as Trial Island, Point Wilson, Dungeness, &c. it runs very strong at springs (from two and half to three knots.)

Throughout the western portion of the Strait, the stream follows the general direction of the coast, except as before remarked at the entrance, where both flood and ebb are more or less influenced by the coast stream. Abreast of the Race Rocks the stream divides, the northern portion setting direct for Trial Island, and so up the Harrow Strait. The middle portion making a direct course for the entrance of the Rosario Strait, whilst the southern streain, sets past Dungeness Point, for Point Wilson, and so up Admiralty

Inlet. Off each of these Straits, or Inlets, the main stream of ebb is more or less affected by the body of water poured into it, till off the Race Rocks, they all unite and run parallel with the coast to the ocean.

It is high water, full and change, at Neah Bay, 3h. PM. at Port Angelos, at 3h. 50m. P.M. rise 8 feet, at Victoria, 4h. P.M. rise 10 feet.

Cape Classet.-The north-west point of Oregon is formed by a conical hill, having several peaks covered with a forest of pine, &c,, the sea face very much broken into dark, rugged cliffs, (probably slate), with numerous high off lying rocks, the prinicipal of which, Tatouch Island, is a cluster of islets joined in several places by ridges of sand. The outer point lies E.N.E. one mile and a quarter from the Cape, leaving a passage between them of four-tenths of a mile broad, from rock to rock; but as this passage is so narrow, and has some sunken rocks in it, with a heavy swell at most times rolling through, it is needless to say it is unavailable. On the large rock are some lodges, belonging to Indians of the Callum tribe. Due north of the north point of Tatouch Island, seven-tenths of a mile, lies Duncan rock, it is low and dangerous, being almost awash at high water, and having from twenty to forty fathoms all round. N.b.W. a quarter of a mile from this lies a still more dangerous sunken rock, called Duntze Rock having three fathoms over it, but from twenty to fifty fathoms close to all round it; on this rock the sea breaks very high at times. Between this and Duncan and Tatouch Island, the passage is clear and the water deep. From Cape Classet, the extreme point of which is fringed with low rocks, covered with kelp, the coast trends due east, three and a quarter miles to Koikla Point, the western extreme of Neah Bay. It is faced by the same bank of kelp-covered rocks, through which in one part there is a passage into a small bay, called Coe de Cabbet, where there is a village of the Classetndians, at which the well known chief Flattery Jack, resides.

Neah Bay. From Koikla Point the land takes a sudden_bend to the south-eastward, and with Wyadda Island, forms Neah Bay. From Koikla Point to Mee-na Point, is S. 64°E:, two miles. Wyadda Island which lies N. 29°W. a quarter of a mile from the latter, contracts this width very much, but forms the principal shelter of the bay. It is a narrow island of slate rock, about a cable's length across, and half a mile long, in the direction N. 30°W., and S. 30°E. From Koikla Point to its north-west extreme is, S. 86° E., 1'4'; off this point a ledge of rocks extends in the same direction as the island, a cable's length from the cliff. The south-west or inner face of the island is fenced by a rocky bank which extends two cables' lengths from the shore, whilst the kelp and foul ground are found nearly as far again.

From Koikla Point the shore of the main trends S. 23°E., one mile, when the cliffs give place to a fine sandy beach forming the bay; this portion of the shore is also faced by a low rocky flat covered with kelp, extending three cables' lengths from the beach, the barrier of kelp continuing as far as the middle of the sandy beach. Close to the end of the cliffs is an Indian village, and the remains of the old abandoned Spanish settlement which was formed here long ago. Near to it is a stream of good water, very convenient for the supply of shipping, as the kelp breaks the swell which at all times rolls into the bay, and the beach is steep enough to allow the boats to lie close to, except at the dead low water of spring tides. From this stream the beach makes a sweep to Mee-na Point, forming the bight of the bay, the land at the back being low and covered with forest. Mee-na Point has a village of the same name close to it. These villages are mostly deserted during the summer season when the Indians are out fishing, or roving along the banks of the Straits in search of berries, and the camas root, which forms the principal portion of their summer food.

From what has been said respecting the extent of the kelp, both from the * Plans of these places are published by the Admiralty.

main, and the back of Wyadda, it will be seen that the space left clear for anchorage is not great; the best berth is with Koikla Point, N. 51°W., Wyadda Island N.W. point N. 39°E., S.E. point N. 77°E. There is also anchorage in the channel between the island and the main, but it is very narrow and difficult to leave without a leading wind. There is 3 to 4 fathoms in the best berths. It is high water full and change at 3 o'clock, the stream setting through the bay with the turn of the tide, but with little strength. When leaving the bay with light winds, care must be taken to allow for the set outside, as at the entrance the flood sets towards the rocky ledge off Wyadda Island, and the ebb amongst the foul ground which lines the coast to the westward.

This bay does not by any means offer a secure anchorage, as the heavy swell which often prevails outside is much felt. It is also exposed to northwest winds, which bring in a heavy sea, and are much dreaded by the natives. From Mee-na Point to Kydaka Point is S. 61°E., ten and a quarter miles; the coast is mostly low cliff covered with trees and fringed with kelp covered rocks. Two miles and a quarter west of Kydaka Point these cliffs disappear, the above point forming the eastern horn of a bay and having a ledge of rocks lying off it. This bay is open to the westward. A mile and a half to the eastward of Mee-na Point is the Klaholoh or Seal Rock, a singular white rock 150 feet high, composed of sandstone. This rock shut in with the south-east end of Wyadda Island, clears the rocks off Koikla Point. Six and a half miles in the same direction, there is a remarkable white patch on the cliffs caused by a slip having bared the sandstone. The soundings off this portion are regular from 5 fathoms at the edge of the kelp out to 40 fathoms, one mile and a half off.

From Kydaka to Sekou Point is S. 61°E., three miles; the coast is composed of broken cliff, with the deep soundings nearer to the shore.

Callum Bay-Sekou Point forms the western extreme of Callum Bay, and bears from Slip Point N. 86°W., two miles, which gives the bay a depth of three-fourths of a mile. It is too open to the north-west to afford good shelter except from easterly winds, but it may be used as a stopping place for a tide. The soundings vary from 6 to 14 fathoms. A small river falls into the bay, and there are lodges both at its eastern and western sides; that at the eastern is called Hygèdith.

From Slip Point off which a ledge of rock extends, the coast trends S. 66° E., six miles and a half, it being one high rugged cliff with the exception of a gorge which connects a small bay at its eastern end with the bay beyond. It is faced by the usual rocks and kelp, the deep water approaching the rocks very close, not less than 40 to 50 fathoms being found a quarter of a mile from the cliffs.

From Pillar Point, which is so named from being formed by a high detached rock, the shore takes a sudden bend to the southward, forming a bay, the hills receding and leaving a passage for a good sized river, the Canel, which disembogues itself in this bight, and has nearly filled up with sand banks its best sheltered or western portion. An Indian village, called Ketsoth, may be seen on the eastern side of the mouth of the stream, the inhabitants of which do not bear the best of characters, and have a most repulsive appearance. The distance from Pillar to Low Point is S. 74°E., eleven miles and a quarter, the coast between being principally formed of broken wooded cliffs, with small sandy bays between, into which numerous little streams run from the hills, which here rise at once from the beach. The soundings are not so deep off this portion, 33 to 38 fathoms being found, two miles and a quarter from the shore, which is very flat and shallow, the kelp line extending in some places three-quarters of a mile out, amongst which, numerous patches of rocks show themselves at low water.