female college at Poughkeepsie, on the Hudson, founded by private donation. From all we heard of the plans of this College, and knew of some of the teachers employed, I should have been very glad to visit it with the hope of learning much from this last manifestation of the American spirit of education, but the teachers at the head seemed very jealous of anything like inspection, alleging that the very recent foundation of the College (in September, 1865) made it impossible that they could allow any visitors to enter the classes.

With this exception I have been able to see more or less thoroughly all the phases of education in the States which specially interested me, and only regret that I could not also see something of the Canadian system, which is said to be specially excellent.

I have thought it best to narrate facts, with very little comment except in the concluding chapter, so that those who desire these only,

may obtain them in as plain a form as possible, unencumbered by personal opinions and remarks, except where these can hardly be excluded from the narrative.

That I have never allowed my judgment to be biassed by foregone conclusions I dare not assert, but I can say most honestly that I have done my best to see all things "from the inside," to report them fairly as I have seen them, and, above all, to " nought set down in malice."

November, 1866,

STANFORD LIBRARY

A VISIT TO SOME

AMERICAN SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES.

CHAPTER I.

BOSTON ΤΟ OBERLIN.

ON September 15th, 1865, we started from Boston on our intended tour of visits to the various Schools and Colleges for girls and women in the United States; circumstances first directing our steps to Oberlin, in Ohio, the oldest and largest of existing Colleges for both sexes.

Of all modern inventions and appliances for luxury in travel, commend me to the American sleeping cars, in some of which I have enjoyed a better night's rest than at many an inn. The "cars" on American railways are always long saloon carriages, with an aisle down the centre leading to doors at the ends,

and down each side a row of seats, each containing two persons, and commanding a sepatate window. These seats are cleverly made with reversible backs, so that the passengers can sit with either back or face to the engine; almost all choosing the latter alternative, except when parties of three or four sit facing each other "sociable" fashion.

Starting by an evening train, we forthwith secured sleeping berths by payment of an extra dollar,* and were initiated into the ingenious plan for their construction. Down came the backs of two opposite seats, which fitted exactly across the space between, and formed a solid couch, on which was laid a good mattress, a brown rug, and some pillows, a curtain separating off the passage-way. My friend and I secured two opposite berths, and, with windows partly open on each side, soon slept the sleep of the just, disturbed only by the conductor's anxiety to shut up our windows, lest we should, as he said, "freeze to death and be burnt up with sparks from the

* Nominally worth four shillings, but, at the time, actually only three shillings, in consequence of the depreciated paper currency.

engine!" Having so good a bed, the regular motion on the broad gauge was really rather lulling than otherwise.

As we went within twenty-five miles of it, we resolved to see Niagara on our way, and, without pausing to attempt once more the oft-repeated description, I will, in one word, advise every traveller who has the chance to follow our example, for no words can do justice to the picture which, once seen, will abide in the mind for ever.

Thus delayed, we did not arrive at Oberlin till September 19th, after manifold experiences on different lines of railway. One peculiarity, however, belonged to all in common: porters were nowhere, and officials of all kinds almost invisible. A single "baggage-master" would give "checks" for heavy luggage, and a single ticket-clerk would take the fares; but, beyond this, travellers must trust to the light of nature in a way that would considerably astonish a wandering Frenchman. Speaking generally, on the continent of Europe, the traveller, once put in the right way, is defied to get out of it, and guarded on all sides, with the evidently fixed idea, "Humanum est errare;" in