and the opera of to-night formed no exception to this observation. The theatre is, I believe, the largest in Europe, and it is certainly too large for the singers, whose voices sound like penny trumpets on Salisbury Plain.*

* It ought to excite little wonder, that there are so few good singers in Italy; for she is unable, from her poverty, to retain those whom she has herself formed. As soon as they become eminent, they are enticed away to foreign countries, and often return to Italy, after years of absence, enriched with the spoils of half the provinces of Europe. Besides, the Italians of the present day have no taste for the higher kinds of music,-for full and grand harmonies,– -or for instrumental music in general. If you talk to them of Haydn, Mozart, or Beethoven, they shrug up their shoulders, and tell you" E Musica Tedesca,—non ci abbiamo gusto." Cherubini, their only really great composer, might perhaps be cited as an exception,—but he is in fact a most striking confirmation of their want of taste;-for his works are almost unknown, and he seems to be himself aware of the inability of his countrymen to appreciate his merits, by residing at a distance, and composing for foreign theatres. What the Italians like, is an easy flowing melody, unincumbered, as they would call it, with too much harmony.· Whatever Corinne may say to the contrary, they seem to have little or no relish for impassioned music. Take an example of the taste of the times from the Opera of to-night-Armida the composition of their favourite Rossini. His operas are always easy and flowing;-abounding in prettinesses and melting cadenzas, but he never reaches, nor apparently does he attempt to reach, the sustained and elevated character which distinguishes the music of Mozart. But Rossini's works ought not to be too severely criticised; for the continual

The pit contained 674 elbowed seats, in 19 rows; and there is standing room for at least 150 persons.

The ballet of Gengis Khan was splendidly got up. The dancing was admirable, for though excellence must necessarily be confined to a few, all were good. These spectacles are better managed here than in England. I am afraid there is always something lumpish and awkward in the general effect of our corps de ballet; but here the groups are so picturesque, their motions so graceful, there is such a general expertness in the most complicated movements of the dance, and such a

demand for new music is greater than any fertility of head could supply. The Italians never like to go back ;-without referring so far as their own great Corelli-Cimarosa, Paisiello, and others of equally recent date, are already become antiquated; and as Rossini is almost their only composer, he is obliged to write an opera in the interval of a few weeks, between the bringing out of the last, and its being laid on the shelf.

It is a sad tantalizing thing to hear music in Italy which you may wish to carry away with you; for they have no printed music !—This alone is sufficient to indicate the low state of the art. From Naples to Milan, I believe, there is no such artist as an Engraver of Music, and you never see a Music shop. You must therefore go without it, or employ a Copier, whose trade is regulated by the most approved cheating rules. He charges you according to the quantity of paper written on, and therefore takes care not to write too closely.

lightness and perpetual motion in all the figures, that the whole spectacle has the effect of phantasmagoria.

3d. The ex-king of Spain arrived, accompanied by his brother the present king of Naples, who had gone to Mola di Gaeta, to meet him. It is said that they now met for the first time after a separation of sixty years.

CHAPTER VIII.

Returned to Rome-Criminal guillotined-Tivoli-Claude Lorraine-Roman Politics-Computation of Time Preachers-Music-Paganini-Departure from RomeFalls of Terni-Return to Florence.

April 5th. LEFT Naples in a fit of spleen and disgust at the continued inclemency of the weather, and slept at Capua; where we found none of those seducing luxuries which enervated the soldiers of Hannibal.

6th. This day's journey brought us to Velletri. It was nearly dark when we left Terracina to pass over the Pontine Marshes. During the last stage, our postilion was constantly stopping, upon some pretence of the harness wanting repairs; at other times he pleaded that his horses were knocked up, and could not go beyond a foot's pace, on which occasion he would set up a loud song. All this was so like the common prologue to a robbery scene in romance, that we suspected the fellow must be a confederate with the banditti. At last we lost all patience-my companion produced his pistols, and swore that the next time he relaxed from a trot,

he would blow out his brains. This seemed to have its effect, and we rattled on to Velletri without clearing up the mystery.

7th. Reached Rome to breakfast.—Went to bed in a high fever.-Summoned a Roman surgeon to open a vein, which he did very tolerably; but their practice is much more timid than our own, for as soon as he had taken a large thimbleful of blood, he was for binding up the arm again, and protested, in the most urgent manner, against the madness of my proceeding when he saw me determined to lose ten ounces.

11th. Emerged from the confinement of a sick room, to enjoy again the genial air of Rome. How delightful is the calm tranquillity of this fallen capital, after the din and clatter of Naples! There is something so soft and balmy in the air, that I feel every mouthful revive and invigorate me ;and it is now as warm as midsummer in England.

Went to the church of S. Maria del Popolo, where there is a great curiosity in sculpture;-a statue by Raphael. It is Jonas, in the moment of his deliverance from the jaws of the great Leviathan of the Deep. The figure is beautifully elegant, and displays the same delicate skill in outline, for which Raphael is so distinguished in his pictures.