country. It seems intended by nature for the region of robbers. The government of Naples has adopted the most vigorous measures for the protection of travellers. Small parties of soldiers are encamped, at halfa mile's distance from each other, during the whole line of road, from Terracina to Capua. But quis custodiet ipsos custodes ?—it is said that the soldiers themselves, after dark, lay aside their military dress, and act as banditti. The richness and luxuriance of the country, between Terracina and Naples, are very striking. Hedges of laurustinus, olives, and vineyards;orange and lemon groves, covered with fruit ;myrtle, fig, and palm-trees, give a new and softer character to the landscape.

The orange-tree adds richness to the prospect, but its form is too clumpy-too round and regular -to be picturesque.

The inhabitants seem to increase in misery, in proportion to the improving kindness of the climate, and fertility of the soil. I have never seen such shocking objects of human wretchedness, as in this smiling land of corn, wine, and oil. At Fondi especially, the poor naked creatures seemed absolutely in a state of starvation, and scrambled eagerly for the orange-peel which fell from our

carriage. Surrounded by these squalid spectres, we might almost have fancied ourselves already arrived at the confines of Orcus; and that we had actually before our eyes the "terribiles visu Formæ” with which the poet has invested its entrance: "Luctus, et ultrices posuere cubilia Cura,

"Pallentesque habitant Morbi, tristisque Senectus ; "Et Metus, et malesuada Fames, et turpis Egestas.". Most of these might have been painted to the life from the ghastly group around us; and indeed, with the exception of "Labos," there is scarcely a personage in the passage alluded to, that might not find an adequate representative at Fondi. This very absence indeed of Industry goes far to account for the presence of the rest; for though the greater part of this misery may be attributed to the faults of the government, yet some little seems to flow from the very blessings of a fine climate and rich soil-for nothing will supply the want of industry.

At Fondi we have a specimen of the old Appian way, and are jolted on the very pavement that Horace travelled over in his journey to Brundusium. There is, too, in the Bureau of the Custom-House, just such a jack-in-office as Horace ridicules on the same occasion.

The extortions of the various Custom-Houses are the most flagrant impositions, and I have always resisted them with success, when, from an unwillingness to submit to injustice, I have been foolish enough to encounter the inconvenience of maintaining the rights of travellers; but, I believe, it is a wiser plan to get rid of all trouble by a small gratuity; for though they have no right to make you pay any thing, they may detain and search you, if they please, and an exemption from such delays is cheaply bought by the sacrifice of a few pauls.

In consequence of a detention of two hours at Capua, which all travellers must reckon upon, we did not reach Naples till after dark.

11th. First view of the bay of Naples;—of which the windows of our lodging command a fine prospect.

The weather is beautiful, and as warm as a June day in England. We sit at breakfast without a fire, on a marble floor-with the casements open, enjoying the mild fresh breeze from the sea. The first view of Vesuvius disappoints expectation. You would not know that it was a burning mountain if you were not told so; the smoke has only the appearance of that light passing cloud, which

is so often seen hanging on the brow of a hill. Drove after breakfast to the Campo di Marte; where, to my great surprise, I found myself transported ten years backwards, into the middle of old schoolfellows.

There was a regular double-wicket cricket match going on ;-Eton against the world ;—and the world was beaten in one innings! This disposition to carry the amusements of their own country along with them, is a striking characteristic of the English. One of them imports a pack of hounds from England to Rome, and hunts regularly during the season, to the great astonishment of the natives.-At Florence, they establish races on the Cascine, after the English manner, and ride their own horses, with the caps and jackets of English jockeys;—and, every where, they make themselves independent of the natives, and rather provide entertainment for themselves, than seek it from the same sources with the people amongst whom they may happen to be. What should we say in London, if the Turks, or the Persians, or the Russians, or the French, were to make Hyde Park the scene of their national pastimes? It is this exclusively national spirit, and the undisguised contempt for all other people, that

the English are so accustomed to express in their manner and conduct, which have made us so generally unpopular on the continent. Our hauteur is the subject of universal complaintand the complaint seems but too well founded.

The view of Naples, from the hill immediately above it, forms a magnificent coup d'œil. It combines all the features of the grand and the splendid; the town-the Bay-Vesuvius. It would be complete, if the sea part of it were more enlivened with shipping.

12th. Oh this land of zephyrs! Yesterday was as warm as July ;-to-day we are shivering, with a bleak easterly wind, and an English black frost. I find we are come to Naples too soon. It would have been quite time enough three months hence. Naples is one of the worst climates in Europe for complaints of the chest; and the winter is much colder here than at Rome, notwithstanding the latitude. Whatever we may think of sea air in England, the effect is very different here. The sea-breeze in Devonshire is mild and soft,―here it is keen and piercing; and, as it sets in regularly at noon, I doubt whether Naples can ever be oppressively hot, even in summer.

We are lodged in the house of a Bishop;-by