idea of Cato, that it is difficult not to feel a little disappointment at the first sight of this bust, which has not that strongly marked cast of features which we call Roman. The moral expression, however, is that of the severe inflexible integrity, the esse quam videri, which Sallust describes, in his beautiful contrast between Cato and Cæsar.

Attended vespers at St. Peter's;-the favourite lounge of the English ladies on Sunday evening.

In the morning they attend the English church, which is now established with an éclat that scandalizes all orthodox Catholics. The English presumed so far upon their favour with the Pope, as to make an application to Consalvi, to authorize the institution of a place of worship, according to the rites of the Church of England. The Cardinal's answer might have been anticipated: "I cannot authorize what would be directly in opposition to the principles of our religion, and the laws of the state, but the government will not interfere with any thing you do quietly amongst yourselves, as long as it is done with propriety." The English church has accordingly been set up, and boasts a very numerous congregation. The door is thronged with as many carriages, as a new fancy chapel in

London; but though the Pope and Cardinal Consalvi seem inclined to let the English do any thing, the multitude regard this permission as a sin and an abomination.

Our fair countrywomen, not content with celebrating the rites of an heretical church under the very nose of the Pope, go in the evening and jostle the Catholics out of their own chapel in St. Peter's. This attendance might at first have been attributed to devotional feelings; but as soon as the music is over, the ladies make their courtesy, and leave the priests to finish their prayers by themselves, while they parade up and down the Cathedral; which then becomes the fashionable promenade.

After vespers, on Sundays, all the equipages in Rome are to be found in the Corso, which then answers to our own Hyde Park; and perhaps there are few places in the world where so many splendid equipages are to be seen, as at Rome; in the number and appearance of the horses, and in the rich liveries of the trains of domestics, and running footmen.

2d. Holy-day. Grand ceremony of the Pope blessing the candles; - hence, Candlemas-day. After the blessing, each Catholic received his candle, and there was a procession from the

church. The second of February is a gloomy

day in Rome; it has a black mark in the calendar, and is memorable in the history of national calamities.-Ball at Lady N.'s.-It was intended to commence at nine o'clock, but, out of deference to the Catholic guests, it was postponed till midnight, that no infringement might be committed upon the Holy-day.

The English ladies have metamorphosed Rome into a watering-place.—One or other of them is "at home" every evening, and there are balls twice a week.-The number of English, at present in Rome, is estimated at about 2,000, and it is said that the influx of wealth occasioned by their residence has so increased the supply of money, as to produce some abatement in the rate of interest. We are in high favour-and Inglese is a passport every where.-The Pope seems to be one of the few sovereigns in Europe, who retain any sense of gratitude for the good offices of England. The difference of sentiment, in the Roman and Neapolitan courts, towards us, was illustrated in the most marked manner, by their respective treatment of the naval officers who were sent by Lord Exmouth with the Italian slaves, redeemed at Algiers.

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The partiality of the Pope to the English excites the jealousy of the natives; and perhaps with some reason. At all ceremonies and spectacles, the guard allow the English to pass over that line which is impassable to the Italians; and I have, more than once, heard a native plead, Inglese, as a passport to follow me. Seats are prepared for the ladies, of which they are not backward in availing themselves, and I have almost expected, on some occasions, to see them elbow the Pope out of his own Chair of State.

3d. Shrove Tuesday;-the last day and winding up of the Carnival. It was formerly the custom to carry a funeral procession of dead harlequin, on this expiration of the Carnival. This however is now discontinued; but at the conclusion of the horse-race on this day, every body carries a taper, and the great fun seems to consist in lighting your taper at your neighbour's candle, and then blowing out his flame ;-a practical joke, with which we may often trace an obvious analogy in the serious pastimes of Politics and Literature.

So much for the Carnival of Rome; of which one has heard tales of wonder, from the days of our nursery;-and indeed it is only fit for the nursery. Nothing can be imagined more childish,

and there is very little mixture of wit or humour to make the childishness amusing.

4th. Ash Wednesday. Ceremony in the Pope's chapel-Sprinkling of ashes on the heads of the Cardinals.-Mass as usual. I have declined being presented to his Holiness, thinking with the Duke of Hamilton, that when the kissing the toe is left out, the ceremony is deprived of all its amuse

ment.

The Pope receives strangers, by six at a time, in his own private apartment, in the plain dress of his order, without any pomp or state. The Italians in general dislike perfumes, and the Pope has a particular antipathy to musk. On the last presentation, one of the company was highly scented with this odour, and Pius was constrained to dismiss the party almost immediately.

5th. My health grows worse and worse! Constant irritation.-Day without rest-night without sleep; at least, sleep without repose, and rest without recreation.

If life, with health and wealth, and all “appliances and means to boot," be nothing but vanity and vexation of spirit; what is it, alas! when deprived of all these embellishments?

6th. Beautiful day.-The sun shines upon every