with the two fore-fingers of his right hand. Two pole-bearers, with splendid fans of ostrich feathers fixed on the top of their poles, preceded him, and reminded me of the chief mourner of Otaheite. The red flowing robes of the cardinals are much more splendid and becoming than the sovereign white satin of the Pope; which, bespangled as it is with gold, has a dingy and dirty appearance, at a distance. The Guard Noble, or Pope's Body Guard, the very privates of which are composed of the nobility of Rome, mustered in the church in full uniform, and kept the ground. They did not take off their hats, and the only part they took in the worship was to kneel down at the word of command, in adoration of the Host, when the bell announced the completion of the miracle of transubstantiation.* A strange attendance this, for the successor of St. Peter-the apostle of the Prince of Peace!but I doubt whether the apostles, if they could return to this world, would be able to recognise * Middleton confesses, that, in this instance at least, he cannot find a parallel in any part of the Pagan worship. The credulity of the ancients, great as it was, revolted at a doctrine like this, which was thought too gross even for Egyptian idolatry:—“ Ecquem tam amentem esse putas, qui illud, quo vescatur, Deum credat esse?" Cic. de Nat. Deor. 3. their own religion, swelled out and swaddled as it is in the Papal Pontificals. It is common to hear of the attraction and fascination of the Catholic ceremonials;-for my part, I think mass a more tiresome business than a Quakers' meeting. There is something very unsocial in the whole transaction. The priest turns his back to the people, and mumbles the prayers to himself. There seems to be no community of worship, except in the general genuflection at the elevation of the Host. The people seem to have no functions to perform, but to look on at a spectacle, which is to me the most fatiguing office in the world. - The vespers, of which music forms the principal part, are more attractive; though one cannot listen to the chants of these "warbling wethers," without feelings of indignation at the system which sanctions such a school of music; but perhaps a government of celibacy may affect to believe the deprivation of virility a loss of small importance. 19th. Passed away the morning in the Capitol. This modern building is not worthy to crown the summit of the Capitoli immobile saxum, as the Romans in the pride of their national vanity delighted to call it. But what is now become of their eternal empire, with the fables of Juventus, and Terminus, which were to them sacred articles of faith?" The wind hath passed over it and it is gone!"-This devoted attachment to their country is perhaps the only amiable feature in the national character of the Romans. With what spirit it breaks out in the invocation of Horace : Alme Sol, curru nitido diem qui though in these very lines, there is a sufficient indication of that jealous hostility towards all other nations, with which this love of their own country was combined. It may be very amusing to read their history, now that we are out of the reach of that grasping and insatiable ambition, which must have rendered them deservedly hateful to their contemporaries. But, Heaven be thanked, the bonds of Roman dominion are broken; and it is to be hoped, that any future attempt to revive their plans of universal conquest may be as unsuccessful as the late imitation of them by the French, whose jacobinical watch-word, of "War to the Palace and Peace to the Cottage," was closely copied— though more insidiously worded-from the favourite maxim of the Romans "Parcere subjectis, et debellare superbos.” This line of their favourite poet contains a complete exposition of the spirit of their foreign policy; a truly domineering and tyrannical spirit—which could not be at rest, while there was any other people on the face of the globe, that claimed the rights of national independence. In the square of the Capitol is the famous equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. The Horse is very spirited, and Michael Angelo's address to it, Cammina! is still quoted. Went in the evening to the Princess Prossedi's. A select ball.-Lucien Buonaparte and his brother Louis, with their respective families, were present. 20th. This morning the Princess's servant called for a fee. This is the custom of Italy, and wherever you make a visit, the domestics call the next day to levy a tax upon you. Called on the Princess Prossedi;-an amiable and interesting woman. She is the eldest daughter of Lucien Buonaparte by a former wife; and it was she who refused to be the wife of Ferdinand of Spain. This match was proposed to her when she was on a visit to the Emperor's court, during the disgrace and exile of her father; but, though she was alone, and subjected to the solicitations of the whole court, and at last assailed by the menaces of Napoleon himself, she had the firmness and courage to adhere to her resolution. Her answer to an inquiry, whether she did not feel afraid of the consequences of irritating her uncle by a refusal, will explain her character;- O que non! on craint peu celui qu'on n'estime pas. The Buonaparte family muster strongly at Rome. Madame Mère is said to be immensely rich; Louis has bought a large tract on the Palatine Hill; and Lucien has a spacious palace in the Via Condotti. Whatever his political sins may have been, his domestic life is irreproachable. He lives in the bosom of his family, all the branches of which assemble in the evening at his house, which is open also to strangers who have been properly introduced to him. His wife must once have been a most beautiful woman, and she still retains all that fascination of manner which is the best part of beauty. 21st. The first day of the Carnival;—or rather |