Edwards, the number of readers connected with the mission had increased in equal ratio; while the infant school, commenced and carried on by Mrs. Edwards, with the assistance of a native girl, gave the highest satisfaction. The people made rapid advance in civilization; some purchasing wagons, and breaking in their oxen for those labors which formerly devolved on the female sex. The use of clothing became so general, that the want of a merchant was greatly felt, to supply the demands of English commodities. This induced us to invite Mr. D. Hume, in whom we placed implicit confidence, who had already traded much with the natives, and traveled a great distance into the interior, to take up his constant abode on the station for that purpose. He built himself a mercantile house, and the measure has succeeded beyond our expectations."

TH

CHAPTER IV.

TRAVELS AND EXPLORATIONS IN AFRICA.

"There is a temple in ruin stands,"
Fashion'd by long forgotten hands,

Two or three columns, and many a stone,
Marble and granite, with grass o'er grown!

HE first modern traveler who made a complete exploration of the ruins of Ethiopia, was a French gentleman, by the name of Frederic Cailliaud, a native of Nantes, His taste for archeology and for the natural sciences led him to travel, and on visiting Africa he found so much to interest and fascinate him, that he remained four years. Early in 1816, he ascended the Nile river to the second cataract. He also visited the Great Oasis in the Libyan desert, west of Thebes, and then crossed the Nile to the Red Sea, where he discovered ruins of ancient cities.

Returning to France in February, 1819, after an absence of years, he immediately applied to the French government to be returned to Egypt for the purpose of making more extensive explorations. His application was warmly seconded by the French Institute, and in two months he received the ap. pointment, and his instruction from the Minister of the interior. Embarking on the 10th of September, he landed at Alexandria, accompanied by a cadet of the French navy. His plan was to first penetrate to the Oasis of Jupiter Ammon, in the Libyan desert, a spot which few travelers had ever reached, and which none had ever thoroughly explored.

Ascending the Nile a short distance, Cailliaud proceeded to the district of the Fyoom, lying a day's journey to the west, and was so fortunate as to find the governor, who had just returned from a successful foray, among some rebellious desert tribes. The latter sent for an Arab chief, named Koroom, and an inhabitant of Siwah, named Youssef, who happened to be in

the Pasha.

the Fyoom, and requested them to conduct Cailliaud to the Oasis. They made serious objections to the plan, but finally yielded, on conditions that the travelers would neither write nor draw, clothe themselves as Egyptians, and assume the character of natives of Cairo. The governor of the Fywoom gave Cailliaud a letter to the chiefs of Siwah, in which he declared that the traveler was sent by Mohammed Ali, and should be treated with the same respect which they owed to The camels were brought, and after halting two days at the encampment of Koroom, they commenced their march into the desert. "The two eldest daughters of Sheik Koroom," says Cailliaud, "went with us for half a league, wishing us all sorts of benedictions for the success of our journey. I saw them collect the dust from the places where the feet of the Arabs, who accompanied us, had left their imprint: this dust they placed in a takia, or small Arab cup, which they held in the hand. I was told that this was done to preserve us from accidents, that they were required to collect some dust from the steps of each man and each camel; that on returning to their tent, they would make a little hole in the top of the cup, and suspend it, in the manner of an hour glass; and that they would consult it every day to notice the duration of our absence, and calculate the time of our return."

At a village on the border of the desert, they were joined by a caravan of inhabitants of the Fyoom, with one hundred camels bound for Siwah. Some of the native merchants refused to go, through the fear of being compromised by the presence of Cailliaud's party. The travelers were obliged to relinquish the idea of taking meridian altitudes, and could not make the least observation, even by the barometer, except by stealth. They were also exceedingly circumspect in their conversation, taking care to make no remark which might excite the suspicion of the Arabs. In two days they arrived at a mountain, at the foot of which, in a little valley, they found a curious well. "The principal spring is a funnel shaped hole, two feet in diameter at the bottom. The Sheik descended into this hole. and plunged into the center a short piece of wood, which he

moved around in the clay, opening a passage for the water, which instantly began to rise. The Sheik then placed his legs. in the orifice, and by twisting himself succeeded in thrusting his body down to the arm pits. Another man mounted on his shoulders to retain him there, and when the latter quit his hold, the Sheik was thrown out of the water by the force of the spring, which is very abundant. The Arabs have the habit of crying aloud during this operation, which appears to them miraculous. They pretend that without doing so, the water would not come.

The caravan continued its march over plains and sand, alternating with hard tracts covered with agates, and occasionally the remains of petrified forests, among which Cailliaud found the trunk of a sycamore eleven feet in circumference and fifteen feet in length. As they approached Siwah the earth became covered with a crystalization of salt, forming vast incrusted plains. Finally, on the fifteenth day, they saw in the distance a valley fertile in palms and acacias, in the midst of which was a village tributary to Siwah, and distant from it about twenty leagues. The village was built on the summit of a steep rock, and appeared to consist partly of the remains of ancient edifices. A curious superstition prevails in this place. A former chief predicted that the inhabitants of the village-men, women, and children-would never exceed forty. The people declared that the number had sometimes exceeded that limit, but that the balance was always speedily restored by the death of the surplus population. When a child is born, they expect a death among the older inhabitants to make room for it. Cailliaud was not allowed to enter the village on the first day, and on climbing the rock the next morning the people shouted "Christian!" whence he knew that some of the Arabs of the caravan had betrayed his true character. Youssef of Siwah finally declared that the traveler would instantly write to Mohammed Ali, who was his friend, if they did not admit him, whereupon they allowed him to enter, and presented him with some fine dates. "On the night of December 8," says Cailliaud, several chiefs came into my

tent, and said with a very mysterious air, that now was de moment to make use of my sorcery in order to moderate the anger of the people of Siwah 'I had several occasions' said one of the chiefs, 'of knowing how experienced are the Christians in this art. A Christian whom I conducted to the little Oasis, finding himself annoyed by the inhabitants and by a caravan of Siwah which opposed his research, suddenly began to write mysterious notes; and immediately those who designed to injure him, humiliated themselves before him and kissed his hands, which proved his great power.' I was at first tempted to convince him of his error, but I reflected that in order to encourage him to serve me, I ought, on the contrary, to assure him that I was as skillful as other Christians, and he might depend on the success of my magical arts."

The

On the evening of the 9th they discovered in the west the palm groves of Siwah, and encamped near an old well. Youssef set out by night to announce their approach to the chiefs at Koroom, and Cailliaud was so excited that he found it impossible to sleep. "After marching three hours the next morning, we reached the first grove of date palms, and the Arabs fired a volley to signify our approach. Youssef came to me crying with joy that we had obtained permission to enter the oasis. We proceeded onward by paths shaded by numerous palm groves; olive, pomegranate, peach, apricot and fig trees enriched the landscape. freshness of the verdure is preserved by tanks and abundant springs; brooks flow in all directions. These gardens appeared to us delicious, and the happiness of having been able to penetrate into this district, separated from the world by three hundred miles of sand, enchanted me. Every step brought me nearer to a spot almost unknown, and perhaps to the long sought temple of Jupiter Ammon. Youssef presented me to three chiefs, who saluted me after the manner of the country. The made us encamp in a court under the walls of the town, near a place where dates were exposed for sale. The windows of the houses were crowded with women curious to see us. The people came in crowds around our tents; there