When trousers are worn they are cut moderately full in the leg and body, but rather short, and not too wide over the foot. These may also be strapped round the bottom of the legs to about 8 inches up, with a soft black leather. Another plan is to sew a narrow strip of soft leather double over the turn-up, with the double edge slightly projecting below the trousers, so as to take off the friction of the boot at the instep against the cloth. A similar piece is sewn on at the back for the heel. These trousers have fly-fronts and "frog" pockets. Plain

seams.

The other form of jacket represented on another plate is cut like a "Reefer," with a back and sideseam. Easy to the measure, to a medium length, with an opening at the bottom of each side-seam, and the corners rounded off. There are four buttons and holes at front, and a small turn. The bottom of the front of the skirt is rounded off. Sleeve easy, and without a cuff; button and hole at the hand. A "pouch" or patch-pocket on each breast and on each skirt, with a small flap to cover the opening. Edges turned in and stitched rather broad.

Breeches for shooting are cut quite easy in the body and the upper part of the leg, but to fit close from the knee downwards. They are long, and have five buttons and holes at the knee. The top-side is not cut very forward at the bottom. Cord in various shades of drab and size of the rib are mostly worn. Cut without waistbands, and with fly-fronts and "frcg"-pockets.

Horn, wood, or smoked-pearl buttons are preferred for the jacket and waistcoat.

YACHTING-DRESS.

On one of the figures on the plates issued this month, we illustrate the prevailing form of dress worn by yachtsmen. It consists of a double-breasted "Reefer," cut moderately easy, and to a medium length. The back is not very broad. An opening is left at the bottom of the back-seam. There are four holes in a lapel of a medium width, square at top. The sleeve is large, with a regular or sham pointed slash sewn on the top side, with five buttons.

There are two pockets at front of the skirts, with flaps to go in or out; and a breast-pocket outside the left breast. The edges are turned in and stitched. Blue serge, or cloth, of a moderate substance, are made up, with gilt or horn club buttons, and the body and back of the jacket lined with white

serge.

Waistcoat to fancy; generally blue or white, with club buttons. Shape optional.

Trousers are made of the same article as the jacket, cut quite full. Plain seams.

THE DEER-STALKER.

A special style of dress is frequently worn by sportsmen when traversing exposed country in deerstalking. Some few years since we issued a plate with one of our numbers, on which we had illustrated the front and back views of this dress, the details of which had been communicated to us by one of the leading houses in the trade. As the shape and the arrangement are presumed to be planned with a view to the requirements of the sport and the convenience of the sportsman, and the fashion of the day would exercise but little influence on the shape, the particulars we gave at the period to which we have referred, would be equally applicable now as then; and useful to a portion at least of our readers.

The jacket is cut like a loose Chesterfield, with a moderate width of back, and a seam at the centre, with an opening at the bottom. It is single-breasted, with four buttons and holes at front, and a ketch about two inches wide is allowed on to the front of the right forepart for the buttons to stand on. It is rather long in comparison with other forms of shooting-jacket, and reaches to within a short distance of the hollow of the knee. It is produced quite large to the measure, as the jacket is intended to hang loosely from the body, and allow perfect freedom to the motion of the limbs. The collar is narrow, rounded off at the front, and invariably worn to stand up. The neck is cut short, so as to admit of the collar fitting snug to the throat. There are two "patch"pockets on each forepart, with flaps, to cover the

openings. The edges are turned in, and stitched broad.

Heather mixtures in Cheviot are generally selected to suit the colours in the ground over which the shooting extends. The sleeve is wide, and quite plain at the hand.

A hood is a useful adjunct, and may be attached by buttons and holes, and worn when the weather renders it desirable.

The waistcoat is made in the style we have already described.

Knickerbockers, which complete the costume, are cut to the usual shape, which we have so frequently described and represented by diagrams. They are made of the same article as the jacket and waistcoat.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN DIAGRAM.

PLATES 1766 AND 1767.

Diagrams 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, and 8, are the pattern of the elegant style of lady's jacket, illustrated on one of the plates published with the present number of our work.

The back (diagram 4) is cut with a plait at the side-seam of the skirt, and has a pointed flap, as pattern on diagram 15, sewn on the edge, but not to reach to the bottom. There is a plain back-tacking at the bottom of the back-seam. Although it is not intended that this jacket should fit close to the figure at the waist, two moderate-sized plaits are taken out under the bosom, to give the necessary freedom, and define the shape of the body. The cuff projects from the hind-arm-seam of the sleeve (diagram 8), as shown on the pattern. The skirt (diagram 2) is cut very hollow at top, and with a certain quantity of fulness to afford liberty over the hip. It has a plain plait to match tha on the back.

Diagrams 5, 14, and 17, are introduced to illustrate remarks contained in that portion of the article "On Disproportion," which appears in the number for the present month.

Diagrams 7 and 16, are the pattern of the pre

vailing shape of train for ladies' riding-habits. At the request of several of our readers, we have published this pattern, as some found a difficulty in carrying out the shape by the directions we have previously given.

Diagram 16, is the pattern of the top-side. The straight line represents the left side-seam, and the curved line from 5 to 7 corresponds in length with half the circumference of the waist. The line from the point 5 to 60, is supposed to be the right sideseam, and is cut longer and with more round on it, to allow of a certain amount of fulness being held on to the under-side in making up. The under-side (diagram 7) has three large V's taken out on the upper edge, if the cloth be stout, or two only when the habit is made of a thin cloth. The strong line again represents the left side-seam from 12 to 60. A broad ketch is sewn on or cut on for the facing of the pocket, which is usually worn, the opening of which is marked.

The train, when seamed up, is sewn on at top to a narrow band, cut with a point at the centre of the body at front, to the size of the waist. The top-side is sewn quite plain, and what fulness there may be in the under-side is gathered on under the jacketskirt behind. The band is fastened with buttons and holes, or a strap and buckle. A silk tab is sewn on at the bottom of the back, under the back-skirt, and two holes worked in it; it is fastened by two buttons sewn on the band, or the tab is simply fastened to the train by two hooks and eyes. A hole is worked at the corner of the pocket ketch at top, and is fastened on to a button, to keep it in its place when on the body.

Diagrams 9 to 13, inclusive, are the pattern of one of the styles of shooting-jacket, being prepared for the forthcoming season, and is illustrated by two figures on one of the plates issued with this month's number of our work. The comfort of the sportsman has been studied in the form and proportions of the jacket, while imparting a certain style which marks the particular character of the garment. The pattern is produced easy to the breast-measure, to allow for the substance of the article which may be made up, and to give the requisite ease for the movements of the arms and body.