Association, it has a very respectable sum in hand, which cannot but be gratifying to all concerned, and, under ordinary circumstances, this fund need scarcely ever be interfered with.

The Fifteenth Annual Supper is fixed to be held at the Albert Hotel, 25, Hanover Street, on Monday, the 4th inst., at 6.30 p.m.

Mr. R. Murray, of 45, George IV. Bridge, is the Hon. Secretary, and the fortnightly meetings take place at 5, St. Andrew's Square. On the 11th and 25th of the present month, Mr. Robertson is to enlighten the members "On Cutting Chesterfields and Pea-Jackets from Body-Fitting Patterns." We shall publish the complete syllabus for the year in our next number.

DRESS REGULATIONS FOR THE ARMY. (REVISED EDITION.)

However much we may be comforted in our trials, by the assurance conveyed in the oft-repeated advice, "Nil desperandum," yet sometimes our spirits will flag, and our patience in waiting for the boon we are eventually to receive, is sorely tried by the painful interim of expectation.

We have been promised, from time to time, a revised edition of the "Dress Regulations for the Army," and have been so repeatedly disappointed, that we at last gave up all hope of the favour ever being granted; and began to reconcile ourselves to things as they are, and put up with a work incorrect in almost every detail, and by being allowed to be sold, calculated to produce an endless amount of mischief. At last the welcome bantling makes its appearance, and we have actually before us a copy of the "Revised Edition."

We shall look carefully over the information, and extract those details which we consider of interest to our readers. Running over the pages, we notice important alterations in regulation, compared with the instructions given in the last edition, which for some years have been worse than useless.

NEW YORK ASSOCIATION OF CUTTERS.

In our last number we gave an extract from "Linthicum's Journal of New York Fashions," on the question of the utility of cutting by patterns. By a curious coincidence, in an account of a meeting of the Association of Cutters, held at New York in October last, which we copy from the "New York Monthly," the very same subject was discussed by the members, the President taking the initiative in the argument.

It would appear, from the opening of Mr. Skiff's speech, that the subject of cutting by patterns had been before the members for some time, and that, at the previous meeting, a motion had even been made to divide the house into two parts, for the purpose of discussing the merits of the two different ways of

cutting-by pattern or by drafting. It was found, however, that the meeting were all favourable to the former plan, and no one could be found to maintain the opposite method. Presuming that this association represents the mass of the foremen of our craft in New York, the admission made by the president is remarkable; and we should scarcely have thought that, considering the attention which is paid to the making up of garments by our Transatlantic confrères, and bearing in mind also the claim they so strenuously make for pre-eminence in this respect, they would have entertained this view. Addressing the members, he said, "The members present at the previous meeting were all practical men, but none of them were drafting tailors, all believing that drafting each garment was not the better mode of cutting." Referring to those cutters who preferred drafting to measures, he observed, "If they did not believe that they were right, they would not be drafting; and if we did not believe that cutting by patterns was the better method, we should not be pursuing that course."

Speaking of the different acceptations of the meaning of the term "cutting by patterns," Mr. Skiff stated that the association maintained that "cutting by patterns is a higher order of teaching. We teach all students to draft all the different kinds of garments, and then teach them an advanced degree of cutting. They are taught to produce a draft with but few measures, using simply the lengths and sizes; not confounding their minds with what is known as ACTUAL MEASUREMENT, sometimes called balance and proof measures, depending on the measures to produce the shape of the coat. Our principle for using patterns is this-that a pattern which fits one man correctly would fit another man who was the same shape and size. Then, admitting the fact that by a scientific process we can grade that pattern into a given number of sizes, it would give us patterns for the different sizes of men who were the same shape. The fact is indisputable that we have got so far all right." The president next stated the deviations required for certain figures, and the principle on which the association worked in reference to these block patterns, as we should term them in this country.

"Now, by classical reasoning, we find four different shapes. This involves three changes in the patterns, to shape them to fit all the different shaped men. This is done by measuring the body, to ascertain the shape, and to find the change necessary to be made in the pattern, all of which changes are brought to a systematic change. First change being for a stooping man, the pattern corresponding with his size represents a man who inclines three inches from a perpendicular. By applying the measure, we find him to incline more than three inches. As much as this measure shows the man to be inclined forward, the pattern will be set forward the same amount by raising the neck and changing the length of the strap. Second shape, erect man. In that case, the pattern

is straightened to correspond with the measure, the incline in both cases being the amount of incline from the base of the perpendicular-a thorough practical measure. Third change is for the stout man, or the man large at the waist. The patterns being based on the proportion of the breast being four inches in excess of the waist, this change is effected by the breast and waist measure. All that the waist shows above the proportion is added to the pattern at the waist, without disturbing the upper part of the pattern. The above changes are all made independent of balance and proof measures, and all made by the means of measures that come under the rules of practical, scientific measuring-measures that will give the results for which they were taken.

"The measure spoken of for the incline is mostly omitted, and the amount of change necessary to be made for a straight or stooping man is noted down with the measure. Mention of this is made in explanation of the remark previously made, of taking the lengths and circumferences, and omitting all other measures. Measuring the incline is left to the option of the cutter. The taking of it would produce the most correct result, and yet we omit it to make cutting more artistic and less mechanical.

"It would greatly benefit the advancement of the profession, could there be brought about some literary excitement that would produce something for cutters, and those who are intending to become cutters, to read and talk about. We cannot come to any decision as to which is the best mode of cutting. A decision follows a practical test; and so soon as the proper time comes, we would like to engage in a public exhibition of the subject now before the house-namely, 'Is the cutting by patterns the best practical method of cutting?'-not for money, but for an award of merit. I will pay one-half the expense of such an exhibition of the two ways of cutting, for the benefit of the trade generally, if the trade generally will pay the other half.

"The question is, What is the difference in the two ways of cutting?

"Answer. The difference is this: In the former they take certain measures for length and size, and also certain measures known as actual measures, or as balance and proof measures, taken and used for the purpose of shaping the garment to the person on which they were taken.

"The principle is simply this-that if the measure indicated 18 length of waist, 36 length of coat, 32 length of sleeve, 36 length around the breast, 32 length around the waist; now, upon the same principle, they go on and find, by the same tape measure, that the length from the front of arm-scye to centre of collar or socket-bone to be 12 inches; the length from socket-bone to centre of back, crossing the blade, to be 24. Also from the same socketbone, under the arm, to a point six inches down the back, to be 20, and back again to the place of starting, to be 27. Also starting from the same place,

passing in front of the arm, tracing the body to a given point at the natural waist, 24. Also starting from the same given point, back of the neck, passing in front of the arm, and tracing the body to full length of waist at back centre, 27 inches.

"Twenty-five years ago, tailoring in America was controlled by men of ability, men of letters, and of high moral standing. The men of those days have been greatly distributed in various ways, until but comparatively few of them remain. The innova. tion to the business has been jour-tailors, whose early training and moral standing is unmentionable, and will be until we see how and get out of their libel suits. But this influx of artists to the designing counters has filled them with cutters of rule and system. They are not endowed with sufficient business capacity to tell whether their services are worth five cents a day or five dollars.

"This drafting garments by rules of actual measurement would explode almost instantly, were it not kept alive by a few business men who do their own cutting. They have business capacity to sell a certain amount of clothing, regardless of the manner and style of cutting. But of such, if there is one here or there who is making money, they are the exceptions. The time is not far distant when our business will, of itself, regenerate. Time changes all things. Cutters have been nothing but adventurers. Every cutter of any ability has been prospecting to make or invent a system that would convert all the world to his way of cutting. That mania has had its day."

Afterwards Mr. W. F. Brooks-more particularly addressing himself to the young members present -advised them to profit by the experience of the older ones:

"On what we have struggled over and worked over you have the benefit of, if you avail yourselves of it, for the question of fitting is solved, and drafting by actual measures is a thing of the past; and you can enter the field now, and develop the business as an artist. If there are among you any artists, they can do for us in art as much as our president has in his day, you will receive the plaudits from future generations yet unborn. I cannot help saying this, because, as many of you know, I mean it and believe it; and I think it is but just that we should give credit to whom credit is due.' I could say much more if I had time. I will only call your attention to the fact that the successful men in our business have been those who used patterns. But they had no such patterns in their day as we have at present, I assure you; and also to notice the fact that our young men in their teens, who are filling responsible positions, could not earn a week's board if they were to depend on drafting. The argument is overwhelmingly in favour of cutting by patterns as the only means of producing anything artistic for this 19th century. Drafting is for schoolboys and for men with very small intellects."