with perfect fairness. I am in no wise annoyed that you should accord to Nicollet's High Mississippi a preference over Elk lake. I had studied all the reports in the Congressional Library here before I went to Minnesota [1872], and did not bother exploring Nicollet's creek because it was so fully laid down on his charts. The narrow channel connecting Elk lake with Itasca was clearly defined in June, 1872, and I candidly see little ground for your assumption that the two lakes were one body of water in 1832 or 1836. Knowing the lay of the land as I do, I have very serious doubts, likewise, whether Morrison lake or Hernando de Soto lake drain into the Mississippi. However, of that you have satisfied yourself, no doubt. I am satisfied that no Mary lake was in existence in 1872, emptying into the east arm of Itasca. I am inclined to think that I was either at Clarke pool or Hall lake; but the first seems too small and the latter too large relying simply on my memory of nearly twenty-four years ago. I thank you very much for the kindness you have shown for the work of a very young man, just out of college and equipped to make no really accurate survey of the two lakes. I am glad to see, however, that my estimate as to the size of the Dolly Varden [Elk] lake (which, by the way, in one of my letters I took the liberty of christening Lake Lincoln), should be nearly accurate. I would call your attention to an article of mine entitled the "Timber Cruiser," in the Century Magazine of March, 1894. As a poetical license, I have taken some liberties with the relative distances, and the geography, but I think that you will appreciate the impressions of the horrors of the Itasca's forests.

I shall read your report with care and thoroughness; and I thank you again for your great courtesy in sending the volume to me. With great admiration for your earnest work in this very important field, I beg to remain,

Yours very truly,

JULIUS CHAMBERS.

Thus the absurd story of Glazier, that Chambers did not explore Elk lake, confirms the published accounts of Dr. Elliott Coues that a "Pirate Crew" had endeavored to rob the earliest explorers of well earned laurels.

REV. J. A. GILFILLAN'S FIRST SERMON AT THE SOURCE.

Still another historical fact, in the same category, remains confirmed, but the particulars are, until now, unpublished.

Reference is had to the voyage of Rev. J. A. Gilfillan to Elk lake in May, 1881, where at the foot of Morrison hill he celebrated the first religious service known to have been conducted at or near the Source of the Mississippi.

More than ten years later and within two hundred feet from where Dr. Gilfillan conducted Divine worship, another

service was held at Morrison hill, which is the rise of ground constituting the division between Itasca and Elk lakes. This was conducted by Mr. J. C. Crane. Whether he was or is a minister of the gospel, I do not know, yet it is claimed and widely heralded that Mr. Crane was the first to conduct religious services at that place.

Accordingly a map was sent to Dr. Gilfillan, than whom no more worthy and conscientious divine ever sacrificed his life's comforts to the conversion of savages, with a request that he also mark on the map the spot where his sermon was preached; requesting also, that he describe the occurrence in writing.

That description, a historical letter of unswerving accuracy, is as follows:

White Earth, Minn.,
November 15th, 1895.

Dear Captain Brower:

In reply to your favor of the 9th inst., just now read-I have been absent-I would say that I have drawn a line in ink on your enclosed map giving our line of advance on Lake Itasca, and marked the spot at the foot of Morrison hill, as near as I can, where the first service was held.

We came by Whipple lake; and Southern Ground [Ojibway guide] called my attention to the fact that the little stream flowing out of it went north into Lake Itasca. I supposed it was the Infant Mississippi and also supposed that the lake which we had just passed-Whipple lake-was where the first drop of water in the Mississippi came from, as I saw no stream running into Whipple lake. I therefore supposed we had stumbled on to the ultimate source of the Mississippi.

I remember my companion, Prof. Cooke, whipping out his foot rule from his pocket as we stepped across the infant stream and remarking that it was 18 inches wide.

We proceeded until we came to Elk lake, as indicated by my line drawn [on the map], and saw an American eagle flying over it.

The service was the usual service of the Episcopal church, and was held half in English and half in Ojibway, to accommodate the congregation, constituted of one Massachusetts Yankee [Prof. Cooke] and one Ojibway Indian [Southern Ground].

My reasons for naming Elk lake, Breck, were these: The first lake I named Whipple, because that lake and Bishop Whipple were the highest ultimate source of the stream which makes glad the cities of God, the Church of God; that river which, flowing down through the ages, sweetens, refreshes and purifies the world through which it flows, and on the banks of which, watered by that glorious river grow all manner of precious fruits. Bishop Whipple, especially since he is the

Bishop of Minnesota, is the reservoir, the head whence this great stream flows. The church is in him and comes from him; he appoints the two inferior orders of the ministry and everything flows from him, and therefore the ultimate source of the Mississippi was properly named from him. Breck was certainly the next to the Bishop in the great work he was permitted by Providence to perform, in the vast influence on succeeding ages that he is exercising and will exercise, and in the loftiness and nobility of his character, in the real manhood of the man, surpassing all others. Whenever Minnesota or the source of its river is looked at he will stand out as the most prominent object, more and more, as time rolls on. He was also the first missionary of the church, not only to the whites living near the source of the Mississippi, as at St. Paul, St. Anthony, Stillwater and Watab, but to the Indians there, at Gull, Leech and Otter Tail lakes, and he did more for them than all other missionaries. Whipple and Breck were also associated in their work. Therefore it was that the next lake to the source, of distinct prominence in the landscape, was properly named Lake Breck.

As to the day in May of 1881, on which the service was held by me, it was Tuesday, but unless my little article in the Minnesota Missionary gives the week, I fear I could not now tell which it was.*

It was not the Red River trail which we left, as stated in your article, on that trip, but the Government road from White Earth to Leech lake. Prof. Cooke and I left White Earth on Monday morning, riding in the saddle or walking some thirty-two miles to a settler's house where we remained for the night; walked north the next morning twenty-two miles to Lake Itasca, and Southern Ground and I walked back in the afternoon, in all about forty-four miles that day. My guide was tired; I was not. Prof. Cooke gave out and was brought home by a wagon from somewhere south of Lake Itasca.

So far as I remember we were at the source two or three hours, and I remember working my way along the shore [of Itasca] as far I think as Ozawindib Point.

I will write to Professor Cooke to learn if he knows what day we were there.

Very respectfully yours,

J. A. GILFILLAN.

Mr. Gilfillan's tracing on the map showing the route of travel is as follows: The line crosses the Itasca moraine west from Hernando de Soto lake, thence northerly past Morrison lake, thence to Whipple lake, thence across the outlet of the last named lake, thence to the west shore of Elk lake, thence

*[The Minnesota Missionary for July, 1881, on its third page, gives a detailed description of this visit to lake Itasca, and of the religious services held there, the date being stated twice as May 19th. That day, however, is found by other records to have been Thursday. W. U.]

to Morrison hill and Itasca lake. The spot marked as the distinct locality where the first religious service was celebrated is at the base of Morrison hill between Itasca and Elk lakes. At that spot a memorial tablet has been placed. The reading thereon is as follows:

FIRST SERMON AT THE SOURCE.

FROM "THEN HAD THY PEACE BEEN AS A RIVER."

BY

REV. J. A. GILFILLAN.

MAY, 1881.

The inscription is given from memory and while it may not be verbatim, the substance is not changed.

In 1891, in August, I think, Mr. Crane at the base of the same hill, so it was claimed, delivered a discourse upon religious topics.

In writing, Mr. Crane was requested to award to Dr. Gilfillan the honors justly due him as the divine first to celebrate with surplice and stole, religious services at the Source of the Mississippi, or near there.

The letter refusing to do so was discourteous, and is deemed to be unfit for publication in connection with these statements of historic fact.

The sermon of 1881 was delivered at Morrison hill; the discourse by Crane was also, in 1891, delivered at Morrison hill. The difference in time was ten years and three months.

Those who desire to do so, can examine the charts with the Secretary of the Historical Society. This somewhat extended notice has been prepared in the interest of fairness, and to commemorate the unselfish services to society, performed by Julius Chambers and Dr. Gilfillan, under circumstances which did not require any detraction from the recognition justly due their predecessors at the Itasca Basin.

This consideration has proved that Mr. Chambers discovered and explored Elk lake and its feeders in 1872, and that Dr. Gilfillan celebrated the first religious service there in

NOTE.

Part 1 of this Volume VIII., pages 1-40, with plate I. (a map of northern Minnesota), comprised the papers presented at the Annual Meeting of this Society, January 21, 1895. This part was published in April, 1895.

Part 2, pages 41-270, with plates II-IX., here completed, comprises the papers presented at the Annual Meeting, January 13, 1896, and at meetings of the Executive Council from February to May, 1896, with other papers accepted by the Publication Committee in its meetings to July, 1896. Its date of publication is December 1, 1896.

The third and concluding part, to be published in 1897, will contain papers presented at the Council meetings and Annual Meeting during the time from September, 1896, to May, 1897. It will include an index of the whole volume.

W. U.