CONTENTS.

PART I.

CHAPTER I.-Proposed treatment of the work.-Etymology of the name California.-Lower or

Old California.-Grixalva and Mendoza.-First discovery.-Expeditions of Cortez.-Cabrillo.-

Ferrelo.-Drake.--Drake's description of the natives.-Bodega and San Francisco Bays.-Sir

Francis Drake's Bay.-Captain Thomas Cavendish.-Captain Woodes Rogers.-His description

of the natives.-The English buccaneering expeditions along the west coasts of the Americas.-

Political reasons why the Spanish Government strenuously prosecuted the discovery and settle-

ment of California.........

p. 21

CHAPTER II.-Expeditions of Viscaino.-Admiral Otondo and Father Kino.-First settlement, and

introduction of the priest rule in the Californias.-Failure and withdrawal of the first missions.

-Renewed attempts to make settlements.-Father Salva-Tierra and his coadjutors.-Final estab-

lishment of the Jesuits in the country.-Geographical discoveries of Father Kino.-Jesuits ex-

pelled and superseded by Franciscan Friars; these, in turn, by the Dominican Monks.-Population

and physical character of Old or Lower California

38

CHAPTER III.-First settlement of New or Upper California by Franciscan Monks.-Supposed

earliest discovery of San Francisco Bay.-Origin of the name.-Establishment of a Mission and

Presidio there, and ceremonies on the occasion.-Gradual establishment of Missions and Presidios

over the country.-List of these, and population of some at various dates.-The gente de razon

and the bestias, or the rational creatures and beasts of the country.-Causes why free white set-

tlers few in number.-Character of the natives as given by Venegas, and other writers.-Progress

and apparent destiny of the Anglo-Saxons on the Pacific....

45

CHAPTER IV.-Conduct of the Fathers towards the natives.-Their mode of instructing, employ-

ing and subsisting the converts.-The Fathers do not appear to have promoted the true welfare

of the aborigines, or done any good to humanity.-Pictures, if gaudily colored and horrible in

subject, great aids to conversion.-Missions and population of the country at recent dates.--

Table on this subject.-Tables of the farm produce and domestic cattle of the country.-Table of

prices..
56

CHAPTER V.-Pious Fund of California.-General description of the Missions.-Patriarchal kind

of life of the Fathers.-Reflections on the subject.-General description of the Presidios, Castillos,

and their garrisons, and of the free Pueblos and Ranchios

67

...........

CHAPTER VI.-Independence of Mexico in 1822, and gradual changes in the character and constitu-

tion of the Missions.-Manumission of the Indians in 1826; but plan found unworkable, and re-

turn to the old state of things-Gradual disappearance of the Pious Fund.-Increasing riches of

the Fathers-Changes of 1833 and 1834 in the Missions, and attempts by the Mexican Congress

to secularize their property.-Santa Anna-Attempted Centralization of the Mexican Govern-

ment.-Overthrow of the old Federal Constitution in 1836.-Revolt and Declaration of Indepen

dence of the Californians.-Continual sinking of the Fathers, and final fall of the Missions in

1845.-Indian converts sent adrift, and Mission property sold or rented.-Cost of the support

of the Missions to the Spanish and Mexican Governments....

74

CHAPTER VII. California distinct in physical character and national feeling from the other

Mexican provinces.-Beginning and progress of immigration into the country.-The Russians at

Bodega Bay.-Later great increase of foreign white settlers; Americans largely preponderating.

-Outrage committed upon the settlers by Mexican authorities-Commodore Jones takes pos-

session of Monterey.-Foreign settlers scatter themselves over the whole country, and silently,

but rapidly, revolutionize or Americanize it.—Origin of the war of 1846 between the Mexican

and American States ...
81

CHAPTER VIII-Col. John C. Fremont-General José Castro.-Fremont declares war against

California-Capture of Sonoma.-Proclamation of William B. Ide.-Letter of Pio Pico, Governor

of the Californias, to Thomas O. Larkin, Consul of the United States.-Thomas O. Larkin's reply

to Pio Pico.-California declared independent.-California desired by the American Government.

-Col. Stevenson's regiment.-Movements of General Kearny.-Seizure of Monterey.-Proclama-

tion of Com. Sloat.-Commander Montgomery takes possession of Yerba Buena and Fremont of

San Juan....

90

CHAPTER IX.-Commodore Stockton takes charge of the American forces in California.-Hostility

of the Californians-Proclamation of Com. Stockton.-Landing at San Pedro, and manoeuvres

of the sailor army.-Castro's commissioners.-March on Los Angeles, and flight of General

Castro.-Triumphant entry into Los Angeles.-Provisional government formed.-The difficulties

of Stockton's march, and the complete success of his plans-Reported hostility of the Walla-

Walla Indians.-Enthusiastic reception of Stockton at San Francisco and other places.-Satis-

faction of the people of California with the new government.-Stockton designs to cross Mexico

and unite with the forces of General Taylor
101

-

CHAPTER X.- Insurrection of the Californians. — Proclamation of General Flores.-Defeat and

surrender of Talbot and Gillespie.-Captain Mervine defeated, with the crew of the Savannah.-

Com. Stockton defeats the Californians at San Diego.-Defeat of General Kearny at San Pasqual.

-The official relations of Com. Stockton and Gen. Kearny.-Movement against Los Angeles.

-Battles of the Rio San Gabriel, and the Plains of the Mesa.-Fremont negotiates with General

Flores and Andreas Pico.-Fremont appointed Governor, and subsequently tried by Court Mar-

tial.-Arrival of Commodore Shubrick, and the confirmation of General Kearny as Governor.-

Mexican Governors of California. -Foreign Consuls in the Territory

..........

118

CHAPTER XI.-Peace concluded between the Mexican and American States.-Terms of the Treaty.

-California ceded to the United States.-The country ruled provisionally by American Govern-

ors.-Rapid increase of population by immigration.-Discovery of gold on the American River

by Mr. James W. Marshall.-Great excitement in consequence of the discovery, and rush of peo-

ple to the gold placers.-Mixed character of the population.-Necessity for the establishment of

a proper form of Government.-Independent sectional legislation inadequate and unsatisfactory.

-Meetings held to effect a general civil organization.--General Riley issues a proclamation for

a meeting to be held at Monterey to adopt a State Constitution.-Names of delegates appointed.

---Meeting at Monterey.-Constitution of California adopted, and rejoicings on the occasion.. 128

CHAPTER XII.-Geographical limits of Upper California.-General description of the country.—

Two great divisions of the northern part of the State.-Fertility of the soil.-Peculiarities of

the climate. Two seasons: wet and dry.-Products of the country.-Fogs and winds on the

coast. The harbors.-Country west of the Sierra Nevada.-The Sacramento and San Joaquin

rivers, and their valleys.-This region of country abounds in timber.-Excessive heat in the dry

season.-Localities of the chief gold placers.-Immense size of trees.-Silver, lead, copper and

coal mines.-Advantages to the immigrant
140

PART II.

CHAPTER L-Description of the Golden Gate.-Origin of the name.-The Bays of San Francisco,

San Pablo, and Suisun.-Rivers emptying into Suisun Bay.-Description of the adjacent coun-

try. Indian tradition.-Remarkable fertility of the soil.-Farm produce and mode of farming.-

Location of the City of San Francisco.-The name Yerba Buena-The first house built.-Dis-

advantages of the locality.-No provision made for desirable public squares or parks

149

CHAPTER II.-The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco.-Formation and survey of the village

of Yerba Buena-Disputes and litigation in regard to Yerba Buena being a Pueblo.-Captain

Richardson the first Harbor Master.-Visits of national and other vessels to Yerba Buena Cove.

-Reasons why the whale ships ceased to enter the harbor for supplies.-Traffic between Yerba

Buena and foreign ports.-Hides and tallow the chief exports.-Prices obtained for these.-

Heavy rains and their effects.-Earthquakes.-Unusual drought.-Mr. Jacob P. Leese establishes

himself at Yerba Buena.-Celebration of the Fourth of July at Leese's house.-First child born.

-Limits of the original survey.................... ... ... ... ....
162

CHAPTER III.-Removal of the Hudson's Bay Company.-Rapid growth and increase of population

of Yerba Buena-First newspapers established in California.-Tables showing the number

of inhabitants in 1847, with their places of birth, ages, sexes and occupations.-Ordinance of the

alcalde changing the name of Yerba Buena to San Francisco.-W. A. Bartlett was the first alcalde

under the American flag, who was succeeded by George Hyde, and he by Edwin Bryant.-Pow-

ers of an alcalde.-Great sale of beach and water lots, agreeably to a decree of General Kearny.

-Price of grants of property, and subsequent increased value of city lots.-Width of the streets.

-Municipal regulation restricting purchasers
178

CHAPTER IV.-Captain Montgomery hoists the American flag on Portsmouth Square.-Arrival of

the ship Brooklyn from New York, with a large company of Mormon and other immigrants.-

Disputes among her passengers, leading to the first jury trial in San Francisco.-Grand ball at

the residence of Wm. A. Leidesdorff.-Nautical fête given by Capt. Simmons.-Public reception

of Com. Stockton, Attempts to establish a public school.-Name of town changed to San Fran.

cisco. Number of buildings and inhabitants.-Suffering immigrants in the Sierra Nevada.-

Trustees of the proposed school chosen.-Delegates to represent the District of San Francisco in

the new legislative council.-Arrival of Col. Stevenson and New York Volunteers.-Vessels in

the harbor, 18th March, 1847.-"The California Star" adopts the name of San Francisco.-Mails

established between San Francisco and San Diego.-Proposed erection of a church.-Grand illu-

mination in honor of Gen. Taylor's victory at Buena Vista.-Celebrations of Anniversaries.-

Public meeting to consider the claims of Col. Fremont to the office of Governor of the Terri-

tory.-Sale of beach and water lots-Election of the first town council.-The first public school.

-Gales in San Francisco Bay.-The first steamboat.—Thanksgiving Day.-Commercial Statis-

185

tics

........

CHAPTER V.-Resolutions concerning gambling.-Public sale of City Property.-Price Current

published.-Condition and population of the town.-Overland express to Independence, Mo.-

George Hyde, alcalde, resigned, and succeeded by Dr. J. Townsend.-Death of Wm. A. Leides-

dorff.-Discovery of gold, and immediate effects.-Illumination in celebration of the peace be-

tween Mexico and the United States.-Dr. T. M. Leavenworth elected alcalde.-First brick

house.-Public meeting to regulate the price of gold dust.-First square-rigged vessel discharged

at Broadway wharf.-Judicial limits of the town.-Rev. T. D. Hunt chosen chaplain.-First

issue of the "Star and Californian."-State of the markets.-Public meeting to organize a Pro-

visional Government.-New town council elected.-Election declared invalid.-Duties collected

at the Custom-House..

CHAPTER VI.-General Effects of the Gold Discoveries

199

209

CHAPTER VII.-The Alta California newspaper established.-Delegates elected to the proposed

convention to be held at San José.-New town council elected.-Three town councils at one

time.-Meeting of the convention to frame a civil government postponed.-Public meeting re-

specting the conflicting councils.-Public meeting concerning negro slavery.-Town councils

resigned, and legislative assembly chosen.-Arrival of the steamship California-Address of

delegates to civil government convention.-Arrival of steamship Oregon, and Col. John W.

Geary with the first United States mails.-General Riley announced territorial governor.-Acts

of the legislative assembly and of the governor.-Meetings concerning municipal and State govern-

ments.-Growth, population and general prosperity of the city.-Gambling and other vices and

218

crimes

........

CHAPTER VIII.-The Hounds.-Election of Supreme Judge, delegates to convention and mu-
nicipal officers.-Alcalde's address to the Ayuntamiento.-Duties of prefects.-The prison brig
Euphemia and store-ship Apollo.-Churches.-Regulations and appointments of the Ayunta

-

-

miento. The "Pacific News" commenced.-Meeting of the Constitution Convention at Mon-

terey. - Merchants' Exchange. - Steam Navigation. - Death of Nathan Spear. First demo-

cratic meeting.-Circus opened.-Constitution approved and State officers elected.-First habita-

tion on Rincon Point.-Thanksgiving Day.-Judge Almond's court.-The "Alta California.”—

First great fire........

227

CHAPTER IX.-Increase of population.-No proper homes.-Character of the houses.-Condition

of the streets.-Employments of the people.-Every thing in apparent confusion; still nobody

idle, and much business accomplished.-How the inhabitants lived.-Money rapidly made and

freely spent.-Gambling.-Shipping deserted.-Extravagantly high prices obtained for every

thing. Rents and wages.-The mines the source of all the wealth.-Destitution, sickness and

death.-Increase of crime-Aspect of the Plaza.-Mixed character of the inhabitants.-The Post-

office.-A pleasant prospect.....

..... 248

CHAPTER X.-Great sale of water lots.-An election day.-Newspapers.-Approval by the ayunta-

miento of the City Charter, and limits of San Francisco.-Squatter difficulty at Rincon Point.—

Political meeting on Portsmouth Square.-The Colton grants.-First county election.-Col.

John C. Hayes elected Sheriff.-City Charter adopted by the State Legislature.-First election

under the City Charter.-Changes in the Common Council.........
264

CHAPTER XI.-Third great fire.-Aldermen's salaries.-Indignation meetings.-Veto message of

the mayor. Shipping in San Francisco Bay.-Celebration of the Fourth of July.-The Oregon

Liberty Pole.-Custom-house at the corner of California and Montgomery streets.-Departure

from California of General Riley.-Society of California Pioneers.-Squatter riots at Sacramento.

-Suffering immigrants.-Presentation of Chinese Books.-Funeral ceremonies on occasion of

the death of President Taylor.-A Chinese document....

... 277

CHAPTER XII.-The first City Directory published.-Monetary crisis.-Fourth great fire.-Death

of Captain Bezer Simmons.-The wharves.-Celebration on account of the admission of California

into the Union of American States.-Explosion of the steamer Sagamore.-City Hospital burned.

-Improvements in the city.-Plank road to the Mission Dolores.-Death of the mayor of Sacra-

mento.-Thanksgiving Day.-Fire in Sacramento-street............

........

........ 289

CHAPTER XIII.-Population in 1850.-City improvements.-Grading and planking streets.-

Wharves, steamers, manufactures.-Supply and demand for goods.-Mines yielding abundantly.

-Expresses established.-Moral progress.-Better state of things.-Cholera.-California admitted

to the Union.-City Charter granted.-First Common Council.-The gold medals for Aldermen.-

Corruption of officials.-Colton Grants.-Leidesdorff Estate.-City finances.-Outrages and fires.

-The prisons and police.-Lynch Law agitated.

........ 800

CHAPTER XIV.-The Gold Bluffs and Pacific Mining Company.-The excitement at the City Hall

in February, 1851.-Attempt to Lynch Burdue and Windred.-Their subsequent escape.-Burn-

ing of the steamers Hartford and Santa Clara....................

311

CHAPTER XV.-Judge Parsons and the case of William Walker for contempt of Court.-Act of

Legislature ceding Beach and Water Lots to the City of San Francisco.-Act to re-incorporate

the city. New city limits.-First election of municipal officers under revised charter.-Act

passed to fund the State debt.-Act to establish State Marine Hospital. -Act to fund the floating

debt.-Indebtedness of the city.-Municipal officers trafficking in city scrip.-Fifth great fire. 322

CHAPTER XVI.-T. Butler King removing the custom-house deposits.-Frank Ball's song, and

custom-house appointment. - Dr. Robinson's rhymes. Incendiarism. The case of Lewis,

charged with arson.-The facilities with which criminals escaped from punishment.—The Vigi-

lance Committee.-Contracts of Mr. Merrifield and the Mountain Water Lake Company to supply

the city with water.........
334

CHAPTER XVII.-The sixth great fire.-Destruction of old buildings.-Execution by the Vigi

lance Committee of Stuart, Whittaker and McKenzie.-County and city elections.-The Vigi-

lance Committee suspend operations.-Wells & Co. suspend payment.-Opening of the Jenny

Lind Theatre.-The American Theatre opened.-Shipping in San Francisco Bay.-Ball of the

Monumental Fire Company.-Indian disturbances and volunteer military companies.-Severe

storm.....

341

....

CHAPTER XVIII.-Immigration diminished.-Females comparatively few.-Great city improve-

ments.-Productions of the country, game, &c., in the markets.-Character of the community

changing for the better.-The circulating medium.-Extravagance in living, dress, &c.-Personal

rencontres and other outrages common.-Titles to real estate uncertain.-Legal decisions.-De-

preciated value of merchandise.-Amusements, dissipation and recreation.-The foreign popula-

tion. Great crimes less frequent.-The finances of the city....
357

CHAPTER XIX.-Dr. Peter Smith.-His contract with the city to take charge of the indigent sick.

-The city's indebtedness.-Smith's judgments and executions.-Injunctions of the commission-

ers of the funded debt.—Sale and sacrifice of the city property under Smith's judgments... 370

CHAPTER XX.-The Chinese in California-Act passed to fund the floating debt of the State.

-The State Marine Hospital.-Act to convert into a seven per cent. stock the floating debt

of the County of San Francisco.-Anniversary of fires.-Meetings of the Vigilance Committee. 378

CHAPTER XXI.-Clipper Ships.-Enormous Taxation.-Purchase of the Jenny Lind Theatre by

the Common Council.-Times and Transcript removes to San Francisco.-Fourth of July cele-

bration.-Great scarcity of printing paper.-Duel between Hon. Edward Gilbert and General

Denver. Custom of Duelling.-Funeral ceremonies on occasion of the death of Henry Clay. 391

CHAPTER XXII.-Australian gold mines.-Restlessness of miners.-Many who emigrated to Aus-

tralia return to California. - Superior advantages of the latter place. -Second city directory

published.-California Telegraph Company.-General election.-Fire in Sacramento City.-

Another fire in San Francisco.-Intelligence received of the death of Daniel Webster.-Falling

of the waters of Lake La Mercede.-Another city directory.-Firemen's election.-Legal exe-

cution of José Forni.-Destructive storm.....

402

CHAPTER XXIII-Increase of population.-Mixed character of the immigrants.-Chinese, Peru-

vians, Chilenos, and other foreigners, notoriously vicious.-Sufferings of the overland immigrants.

-Greater attention paid to agricultural pursuits.-City improvements still progressing.-Great

fires no longer possible.-Fire insurance agencies established.-Manufactories.-New gold dis-

coveries.-Emigration to Australia.-Merchandise and provisions commanding high prices.-

The clipper ships.-Filthy condition of the streets.-Great abundance of rats.-The city exten-

sion, bay, and shipping.-The strong winds preventive of disease.-Peculations of officials.-

San Francisco only suitable for the industrious.-The city growing in importance.-Change of

inhabitants.-Fascinations of San Francisco life.-Reflections concerning the moral condition of

CHAPTER XXIV.-Commerce.-Mercantile Library Association.-The Limantour claim.-Elec-

tion of delegates to revise the City Charter.-Third annual celebration of the organization of the

Fire Department.-Steamships lost.-Extension of the city water front.-United States Marine

Hospital....

427

CHAPTER XXV.-Russ's garden.-The German .population.-May-day celebration by school-chil-

dren.-Burning of the Rassette House.-Mountain Lake Water Company.-General State Hospi-

tal.-Drinking houses.-Clipper ships and short passages.-Military parade and celebration of 4th

of July. Dedication of the First Congregational Church.-St. Mary's (Catholic) Church.-Unita-

rian Church.-Seamen's Bethel.-Squatter difficulties.-Store-ships burned.-Strikes by mechan-

ics and laborers for higher wages.-Anniversary of the German Turnverein.-City and county

election.-Lafayette Hook and Ladder Company organized.-The French inhabitants.-Sweeney

& Baugh's electric telegraph....

..... 445

CHAPTER XXVI.-Important legal decision of the Supreme Court confirming Alcaldes' grants.-

Burning of the St. Francis Hotel.-Opening of the telegraph communication to Marysville.-Lone

Mountain Cemetery.-Anniversary of the day of St. Francis.-The Mission Dolores.-The Span-

ish races in California.-The Custom House Block.-The steamship Winfield Scott wrecked.—

Election of officers of the Fire Department.-The Sonorian Filibusters.-Opening of the Metro-

politan Theatre.-Great sales of water lots.-Montgomery block..

467

CHAPTER XXVII-Numbers and description of the population of the State.-Amount of gold

produced from California mines.-San Francisco as related to California.-Population of San

Francisco.-City improvements.-Commercial statistics.....

484