CHAPTER XXV.

Showers Soda Springs-Dr. Burke-Pleasant interview-Green river -Great change-New route-Sterile and forbidding country-Summit level-Uncomfortable night-Contrast-Divide-" Home, sweet home”—A trail—Sabbath travelling-Weather-Dreary pass—Animals-Bear-Sweetwater valley-Independence rock-Solitary walk -Halt-Ravine-Snow-Red bluff-Camp on the Platte-Buffalo -Needless fears-Humbug-Three grizzly bears-Signs of Indians -Nondescript-Indian and family-Signs of danger-Herd of horses-Attempt to escape obscrvation-Failure-An old man-Kind reception-Handsome offer-An American-Feasting-SmokingReasonable request-Encampment-Two Frenchmen-Good meal -Warm spring-Fort Laranny-Mr. Tappan-Fligibility for a military post.

THE first night after leaving fort Hall they had a shower of rain, the only one between the Dalles of the Columbia and the United States, a period of ninety days. Their second encampment from this place was at the soda spring. Every thing bore much the same aspect, as four years previously, excepting the unpleasant change caused by emigrants having cut away so much timber, lessening the wild beauty, and grateful shade of a spot, destined, ere long, to become a rendezvous for the world.

On the 27th, they met Dr. Burke, who was engaged in collecting botanical and mineralogical specimens for the English government. He related many anecdotes of his travels in Africa, and the interview was both pleasing and instructive. They had the pleasure of his company to a din

ner, which Brown and Chapman exerted their skill to render palatable, presenting him with bread, butter, and potatoes, which he had not tasted for months.

They reached Green river the 9th of October. Here a great change had taken place; the numerous expeditions having so destroyed the timber as to leave the doctor in doubt whether it really was Green river. It was also quite different from what it had been when he first visited it. But their doubts were resolved by finding an old piece of wagonboard, with a name written upon it, in pencil, “we arrived at this point, Green river, 1844."

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They now attempted a route, to them, entirely new, between Green river and the Rocky Mountains. It was an arid and forbidding region, uttely destitute of vegetation, and of every living thing, the lizard excepted. They pushed on for forty miles, without a drop of water, or discovering a single article fit for food; at the end of which they stopped and took a slight lunch, feeling more uncomfortable for their jaded horses, than pleasure in their own hasty allowance. As they approached the summit level between Green and Sandy rivers, the weather became very chilly; the winds, blowing from the snowy tops of the mountains, were searching and severe. As evening came on, the party became drowsy from cold and weariness, and were hardly able to reach a suitable place for rest, which, however, they did reach between ten and eleven o'clock at night. As they were in a dangerous part of the country, they dared not build a fire, but spread their blankets upon the wet ground, and threw themselves upon them, reflecting how different was their prospect for spending the night, from those of travellers in the states, contrasting their uncomfortable, and

even perilous situation, with good fires, warm supper, and soft beds.

In the morning they were roused by the scampering of the horses, bellowing of buffalo, and capering of antelope. Chapman slaughtered a fine antelope, which, with bread composed of flour, salt, and water, mixed, and baked on a tin before the fire, and the last of the butter, made their breakfast.

They started about ten o'clock, and reached the divide that evening, and on Saturday crossed it on foot, arrived at Sweetwater valley at twelve o'clock, and at three came to a halt, each one happy that they were again travelling down hill, and on the side of the old republic. One involuntarily broke out singing, "home, sweet home," and Dr. W.'s thoughts irresistably flew forward to the time when he should again meet his wife, and dear little boys, whom he had not seen for three and a half years.

At sunset they struck a large Indian trail, running to the south-east, and they thought the party might have passed while they were at dinner. This did not retard their speed, and they made twenty miles before they again sought repose, which they at last did with feelings of great disquiet. They awoke before day-break, and went in pursuit of their horses, which had strayed far away. The nature of their emotions at this, may be imagined. They were yet a thousand miles from the states, with a scarcity of provisions, and a hostile country to pass through. However, the genius of good luck favored them, and they found the animals; after which they had divine worship, and then started forward, for they dared not tarry, even though it was Sabbath. That night they slept twenty-five miles distant, in the Sweetwater valley, where thousands of moving buffaloes disturbed their

The night was

The next day

rest, coming within three rods of them. clear, though severe for the 7th of October. they passed Hell Gate, so called for being the place where eleven whites were cut off at once by the Indians. Through this dismal pass, a quarter of a mile in length, cut through a mountain of rock, they travelled in great fear lest they should be way-laid. In the morning they awoke much refreshed, and carefully searched, but found no trace of savages, breakfasted, and went on, meeting numerous sagefowls, horses, antelopes and buffaloes, of which they killed one. That night they arrived at Salarætus lake, where they were visited by a huge grizzly bear, but did not pursue him, though strongly tempted to do so. They reached Sweetwater pass about half past nine, and soon after, Independence rock. Here the doctor crept stealthily along a mile in advance, fearing a repetition of the scene he had formerly witnessed. He was startled by the lightest motion of a leaf, in the shimmering light of the setting moon. Every thing was as still as death, except a slight stir, now and then, occasioned by a gentle zephyr, giving an apparent quiet life and motion to every shadowed twig and weed. The scene was solemnity itself. They camped between twelve and one o'clock, and the next day travelled thirty miles.

On the 8th, after an early breakfast, they mounted, the wind at their backs, which, clear as it was, gradually increased, till, at eleven o'clock, it was like a blow at sea, making the sand so troublesome that they were driven into harbor at twelve. There they dined on buffalo tongue, tenderlines and tea, and at two o'clock, as the wind had a little abated, again started, and travelled on till they reached the bottom of a deep ravine, where a few willows partially shielded them from the snow and driving blasts, through the

night. The next day was cold and stormy, the snow falling an inch in depth on the table while they were dining. That afternoon the travellers came in sight of the Red bluff of the Black hills, of a color between scarlet and chocolate, and that evening camped on the Platte.

In the night, Brown awoke his companions, to listen to the hordes of buffaloes crossing the stream in a precipitate and hurried manner. Chapman quickly, but gravely, admonished them to "be very still, as there were Indians just below." Having some doubts of these night visions, his leader asked his reasons for such a statement, but in vain; he would or could give none. In the morning he started out to fetch up the horses, and soon came back, saying, in a hurried and excited manner:

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There, I told you there were Indians down there!" "Well, Chapman, what now? Have you seen any?” "No; but I heard the men gambling, and making medicines, children talking, dogs barking, and all sorts of noises."

"Chapman, did you hear the dogs bark?"

"I tell you I heard all sorts of noises, and if you don't believe me, go yourself, and you will soon be satisfied." "That I will do, certainly. Brown, come; go along." They went as far as he did, and heard nothing but the winds sighing through the trees, in the valley, the flitting of ravens, and the pecking of birds on the old, dry timber. Far down the river, they saw the buffaloes and antelopes quietly grazing, and all nature, in these lonely recesses, appearing awful from her very repose; the storm being over, and the ground covered with snow to three inches in depth.

Dr. White decided to cross the river, and go ahead, Chap