Utilla, another south branch, twenty-five miles below Wallawalla, contains a great quantity of arrable land, perhaps sufficient for one hundred and fifty families. The Wallawalla, another south branch, evidently contains more tillable land, including its many branches, than any other stream in the upper country. I judge that three hundred and fifty families could comfortably locate on this river and its branches. I speak of white families. Probably it would sustain three times that number of Indian families, as they will always live more or less upon fish. The mission station of Dr. Whitman, among the Keyuse, is on the upper waters of the Wallawalla. The Wallawalla river proper probably may be cultivated for thirty miles; the Tusha, its principal branch, perhaps for fifty miles; the Sataksnima, a small branch, fiteen miles. On the Tshimnap, Okanagan, and some other rivers coming into the Columbia river from the west, there is said to be more or less tillable land. The Tuckanan, a south branch of the Snake river, some seventy miles above its mouth, contains some land apparently of the best quality. It resembles a piece in this valley, which has produced one thousand four hundred bushels of potatoes to the acre. The tillable land extends up the Tuckanan, twelve miles, and about five up the Pataha, a branch. Probably sixty families could locate here. This is a favorable location for a settlement, by reason of the advantages of the large river for transportation and rafting timber. The Paluse, putting in from the opposite side of the Tuckanan, contains some good land. This valley-Lapwai-will probably settle two hundred and fifty families of Indians. Most of the land is already taken up. Yacktoin, putting in from the opposite side, three miles above this, will settle as many more. There are said to be several other valleys between this and the

There

mountains, containing arable land. The Grand Round is a beautiful plain, fifty miles in circuit, on the route from fort Boisi to Wallawalla, probably all susceptible of cultivation. It is surrounded by mountains and may be frosty. About forty miles southeast of this is another rich valley, of some thirty-five miles in length, interspersed with large plats of white clover, through which a beautiful lake pours its cold waters in a rapid river, which unites with the Grand Round, and forms the Wailua, a branch of the Snake river. are three or four other considerable streams putting into the Snake river above this, from the south, on two or three of which there are said to be large fertile plains. I know of but very little arable land in the vicinity of Salmon river. On the Shuhspalanima and Quaicksnima, two considerable branches of the Snake river, above Salmon, there is said to be some good land. Dr. Whitman writes me from fort Hall, saying that in his journey to that place he travelled some fifty miles up the Boisi river, and thinks there is more good land on it than on any other stream with which he is acquainted in this upper country.

There is an extensive red clover plain, commencing about five miles south of this station, which I think would produce; but there is no timber, and very little water. Doubtless many other arable valleys will show themselves, as the country becomes more thoroughly explored.

Your humble servant,

H. H. SPALDING.

DR.. WHITE,

Agent of Indian Affairs west of the Rocky Mountans.

CHAPTER XX.

Excitement among the Indians-Different views of the alarmed whites -Another journey-State of the Indians-Mr. Spalding's stationNez Perces-Keyuses and Wallawa las-Presence of the women at the feast-Peace-Visit the Dalles-Course of the agent-Laws of the whites-Immigrating party-Willamette valley-Gov. McLaugh- · lin-False reports-Schools-Mission claim-Mr. Lee-Instructions to immigrants-Oregon Institute-Letters.

Willamette Valley, Oregon, Nov. 15, 1843. HONORED SIR-Since my arrival, I have had the honor of addressing you some three or four communications, the last of which left early in April, conveyed by the Hudson's Bay Company's express over the Rocky Mountains, via. Canada, which I hope and judge was duly received.

Immediately after this, I received several communications from missionaries of the interior, some from the Methodists, and those sent out by the American board, representing the Indians in the interior as in a great state of excitement, and under much apprehension from the circumstance that such number of whites were coming in, as they were informed, to take possession of their land and country. The excitement soon became general, both among whites and Indians, in this lower as well as upper district; and such were the constantly floating groundless reports, that much uneasiness was felt, and some of our citizens were under such a state of apprehensions as to abandon their houses, and place themselves more immediately within the precincts of the colony. As in all such cases, a variety of opinions were entertained and

expressed-some pleading for me, at the expense of the general government, to throw up a strong fortification in the centre of the colony, and furnish the settlers with guns and ammunition, so that we might be prepared for extremities. Others thought it more advisable for me to go with an armed force of considerable strength to the heart and centre of the conspiracy, as it was represented, and if words will not answer, make power and balls do it. A third party entertained different views, and few were really agreed on any one

measure.

As may be imagined, I felt the awkwardness of my position; but, without stopping to consult an agitated populace, selected a sensible clergyman and a single attendant, with my interpreter, and so managed as to throw myself immediately into their midst unobserved. The measure had the desired effect-though, as in my report I wil! more fully inform you, had like to have cost me my life.

The Indians flocked around me, and inquired after my party, and could not be persuaded, for some time, but that I had a large party concealed somewhere near, and only waited to get them convened, to open a fire upon, and cut them all off at a blow. On convincing them of my defenceless. condition and pacific intentions, they were quite astounded and much affected, assuring me they had been under strong apprehensions, having learned I was soon to visit them with a large armed party, with hostile intentions, and I actually found them suffering more from fears of war from the whites, than the whites from the Indians-each party resolving, however, to remain at home, and there fight to the last— though, fortunately, some three or four hundred miles apart.

The day following we left these Wallawallas and Keyuses,

to pay a visit to the Nez Perces, promising to call on our return, and enter into a treaty of amity, if we could agree on the terms, and wished them to give general notice to all concerned, of both tribes.

In two days we were at Mr. Spalding's station. The Nez Perces came together in greater numbers than on any former occasion for years, and all the circumstances combining to favor it, received us most cordially. Their improvement during the winter, in reading, writing, etc., was considera-ble, and the enlargement of their plantations, with the increased variety and quantities of the various kinds of grains and products now vigorously shooting forth, connected with the better state of cultivation and their universally good fences, were certainly most encouraging.

Spending some days with this interesting tribe, and their devoted missionaries, in the pleasantest manner, they accepted my invitation to visit with me the Keyuses and Wallawallas, and assist by their influence to bring them into the same regulation they had previously adopted, and with which all were so well pleased.

Mr. Spalding and Ellis, the high chief, with every other chief and brave of importance, and some four or five hundred of the men and their women, accompanied us to Waiilaptu, Dr. Whitman's station, a distance of a hundred and twenty miles, where we met the Keyuses and Wallawallas in mass, and spent some five or six days in getting matters adjusted and principles settled, so as to receive the Keyuses into the civil compact; which being done, and the high chief elected, much to the satisfaction of both whites and Indians, I ordered two fat oxen killed, and wheat, salt, etc., distributed accordingly.

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This was the first feast at which the Indian women of this