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DIVISIONS.

former being about 175 miles, and the latter, following the course of the Connecticut, 215 miles. The state is divided into two equal parts by the parallel of 44d. 9m. north latitude, and also by the meridian in 4d. 19m. of east longitude. These two lines intersect each other near the western line of Northfield, and about 10 miles south westerly from Montpelier, and the point of intersection is the geographi

ties, which are sub-divided into 245 townships, and several small gores of land, which are not yet annexed to, or formed into, townships. The names of the counties, the date of their incorporation, the shire towns, and the number of towns in each county at the present time (1842,) are exhibited in the following table:

cording to the latter, the 45th parallel lies a little to the southward of the line previously established, but it is not yet finally settled. The eastern boundary was established by a decree of George III, July 20th, 1764, which declared the western bank of the Connecticut river to be the western boundary of New Hampshire. The southern boundary is derived from a royal decree of March 4th, 1740, and was surveyed by Richard Hazen, in Feb-cal centre of the state. ruary and March, 1741. This line, which Divisions.-The Green Mountains exwas the divisional line between Massachu-tend quite through the state from south setts and New Hampshire, was to run due to north, and, following the western range, west from a point three miles to the north- divide it into two very nearly equal parts. ward of Patucket falls, till it reached the These form the only natural division, province of New York. It was run by with the exception of the waters of lake the compass, and ten degrees allowed for Champlain, which divide the county of westerly variation of the magnetic needle. Grand Isle from the counties of Franklin This being too great an allowance, the and Chittenden, and the several islands line crossed the Connecticut river 2' which compose that county, from each 57" to the northward of a due west line. other, and from the main land. For civil In consequence of this error, New Hamp-purposes the state is divided into 14 counshire lost 59,873 acres, and Vermont 133,897 acres, and the south line of the state is not parallel with the north line. The western boundary was settled by the governments of Vermont and New York at the close of their controversy, in 1790. This line passes along the western boundaries of the townships of Pownal, Bennington, Shaftsbury, Arlington, Sandgate, Rupert, Pawlet, Wells and Poultney, to Poultney river; thence along the middle of the deepest channel of said river, East bay and lake Champlain to the 45th degree of north latitude, passing to the eastward of the islands called the Four Brothers, and to the westward of Grand Isle and Isle la Motte. The portion of this line between the southwest corner of the state and Poultney river, was surveyed in 1813 and 1814, and the report and plan of the survey are in the office of the Secretary of State at Montpelier. Extent and Area.-The length of Vermont from north to south is 157 miles, and the average width from east to west 57 miles, which gives an area of 9,056} square miles, or 5,795,960 acres. The length of the north line of the state is 90 miles, and of the south line 41 miles, but, on account of the great bend of the Connecticut to the westward, the mean width of the state is considerable less than the mean between these two lines, as above stated. The width of the state from Barnet to Charlotte through Mont-divide the population of each state by its area and pelier, which is 50 miles nearer to the the quotient is the average number of persons to northern than to the southern boundary if we take the last census and the area at 10,237, each square mile in the states respectively. Now is only about 60 miles. On account of the population is only about 28 to a square mile, but the irregularities in the western and east- if we take the true ares, 9,056, it is 32 to the square ern boundaries, both these lines are lon-mile,which would effect very materially its relation to the other states. According to the census of 1820, ger than the mean length of the state, the

Counties.

Incorporated Shire Towns. No Feb.27, 1787 Middlebury, 22 Bennington

Feb.11, 1779

17

Manchester,

Danville,

18

Addison,
Bennington
Caledonia, Nov. 5, 1792
Chittenden, Oct.22, 1782 Burlington, 15
Essex, Nov. 5, 1792 Guildhall, 17
Franklin, Nov. 5, 1792 St. Albans, 14
Grand Isle, Nov. 9, 1802 North Hero, 5
Lamoille Oct.26, 1835 Hydepark, 12
Orange, Feb. 1781 Chelsea, 17
Orleans, Nov. 5, 1792 Irasburgh, 19
Rutland,
Feb. 1781 Rutland, 26
Washington Nov. 1, 1810 Montpelier, 17
Windham, Feb.11, 1779 Newfane, 23
Windsor, Feb. 1781 Woodstock, 23

* Dr. Williams (vol. I, p. 24) seems to have, inadvertently, taken the mean of the two ends of the state for its mean width and thus computed the area at 10,237 1-4 square miles, or 1181m. too much; but this is the area which has usually been given in our geographies and other works respecting Vermont. As the area of countries forms the basis of statistical tables, it is a matter of some consequence that it should be correctly stated. Suppose for example, we wish to know how Vermont compares with the other states in density of population, we

Vermont was set down as the 10th state in density

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SECTION II.

of the roads,, more particularly in their Face of the country. more judicious location near the streams, the difficulty of crossing the mountain has Mountains-The surface of Vermont is nearly vanished. In the southern part of generally uneven. A few townships along Washington county, the Green Mountains the margin of lake Champlain may be separate into two ranges. The highest of called level; but with these exceptions, these ranges, bearing a little east of north, the whole state consists of hills and val- continues along the eastern boundaries of leys, alluvial flats and gentle acclivities, the counties of Chittenden and Franklin, elevated plains and lofty mountains. The and through the county of Lamoille to celebrated range of Green Mountains, Canada line; while the other range strikes which give name to the state, extends off much more to the east through the quite through it from south to north, keep-southern and eastern parts of Washinging nearly a middle course between Con-ton county, the western part of Caledonia necticut river on the east and lake Cham-county and the north western part of Esplain on the west. From the line of Mas-sex county to Canada. This last is called sachusetts to the southern part of Wash- the height of lands, and it divides the ington county, this range continues lofty, waters, which fall into Connecticut river, and unbroken through by any considera- in the north part of the state, from those ble streams; dividing the counties of which fall into lake Champlain and lake Windham, Windsor and Orange from the Memphremagog. This branch of the Green counties of Bennington, Rutland and Ad- Mountains, though it no where rises so dison. In this part of the state, the com- high as many points of the western branch, munication between the eastern and west-is much more uniformly elevated; yet ern sides of the mountain was formerly difficult, and the phrase, going over the mountain, denoted an arduous business. But on account of the great improvement

of population, whereas, if the true area had been used in the computation, she would have ranked as the eighth.

the acclivity is so gentle as to admit of easy roads over it in various places. The western range, having been broken through by the rivers Winooski, Lamoille and Missisco, is divided into several sections, these rivers having opened passages for good roads along their banks, while

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MOUNTAINS.

NATURAL HISTORY OF VERMONT.

СНАР. І.

RIVERS AND STREAMS.

Rivers and Streams.-The rivers and streams lying within the state of Vermont are very numerous, but small. They, in most cases, originate among the Green Mountains, and their courses are short and generally rapid. Connecticut river washes the whole eastern border of the state, but belongs to New Hampshire, the western margin of that stream forming the boundary line between New Hampshire and Vermont. The Connecticut receives the waters from 3,700 square miles of our territory. It receives from Ver

the intervening portions are so high and steep as not to admit of roads being made over them, with the exception of that portion lying between the Lamoille and Missisco. This part of the Green Mountains presents some of the most lofty summits in the state; particularly the Nose and Chin in Mansfield, and Camel's Hump in Huntington. These, together with other important mountains and summits in the state, are exhibited in the foregoing table and cut, and will also be described in the Gazetteer, under their respective names. The sides, and, in most cases, the sum-mont, besides numerous smaller streams, mits of the mountains in Vermont, are covered with evergreens, such as spruce, hemlock and fir. On this account the French, being the first civilized people who visited this part of the world, early gave to them the name of Verd Mont, or Green Mountain; and when the inhabi-phremagog lake. Missisco, Lamoille, tants of the New Hampshire Grants assumed the powers of government, in 1777, they adopted this name, contracted by the omission of the letter d, for the name of the new state.*

*This name is said to have been adopted upon the recommendation of Dr. Thomas Young-(see

part 2d, page 106.) The following account of the christening of the Green Mountains, is given by the Rev. Samuel Peters in his life of the Rev. Hugh Peters, published at New York in 1807.

the waters of the eleven following rivers, viz: Wantasticook, or West, Saxton's, Williams', Black, Ottaquechy, White, Ompompanoosuc, Wait's, Wells', Passumpsic, and Nulhegan. Clyde, Barton and Black river run northerly into Mem

Winooski and Poultney river and Otter creek flow westerly into lake Champlain, and the Battenkill and Hoosic westerly into Hudson river. Deerfield river runs southerly from Vermont and falls into the Connecticut in Massachusetts; and the Coatacook and Pike river head in the north part of the state and run northerly into Canada, the former uniting with Massuippi river at Lenoxville and the latter falling into the head of Missisco bay. All these streams and many smaller ones will be described in the Gazetteer under their respective names.

"Verd-Mont was a name given to the Green Mountains in October, 1763, by the Rev. Dr. Peters, the first clergyman who paid a visit to the 30,000 settlers in that country, in the presence of Col. Taplin, Col. Willes, Col. Peters, Judge PeNo country in the world is better supters and many others, who were proprietors of a plied with pure and wholesome water large number of townships in that colony. The than Vermont. There are scarcely any ceremony was performed on the top of a rock farms in the state which are not well wastanding on a high mountain, then named Mount tered by springs, or brooks; and none, Pisgah because it provided to the company a clear with the exception of those upon the islsight of lake Champlain at the west, and of Con- ands in lake Champlain, which are not in necticut river at the east, and overlooked all the the vicinity of one, or more, considerable trees and hills in the vast wilderness at the north mill stream. But while Vermont is so and south. The baptism was performed in the abundantly supplied with water, there is, following manner: Priest Peters stood on the probably, no part of our country in which pinnacle of the rock, when he received a bottle of so little stagnant water is found. The spirits from Col. Taplin; then haranguing the waters of the lakes and ponds are usually company with a short history of the infant settle-clear and transparent, and nearly all the ment, and the prospect of its becoming an impreg- springs and streams are brisk and lively. nable barrier between the British colonies on the It is a common remark that the streams south and the late colonies of the French on the in this state have diminished very much north, which might be returned to their late own-in size, since the country began to be ers for the sake of governing America by the dif- cleared and settled, and it is doubtless ferent powers of Europe, he continued, We have here met upon the rock Etam, standing on Mount true to some extent. Many mills, which Pisgah,which makes a part of the everlasting hill the spine of Asia, Africa and America, holding together the terrestrial bail, and dividing the Atlantic from the Pacific ocean-to dedicate and consecrate this extensive wilderness to God manifested in the flesh, and to give it a new name worthy of the Athenians and ancient Spartans,-which new name is Verd Mont, in token that her mountains and hills shall be ever green and shall never die.'

He then poured out the spirits and cast the bottle upon the rock Etam."

There is no doubt that the name Verd Mont had been applied to this range of mountains long previous to the above transaction, (if, indeed, it ever took place;) but we do not find that the name Verd Mont, or Vermont, was ever applied to the territory generally known as the New Hampshire Grants, previous to the declaration of the independence of the territory in January, 1777.

LAKES AND PONDS.

LAKE CHAMPLAIN.

state of New York, and more than half of it within the limits of Vermont. It extends in a straight line from south to north, 102 miles along the western boundary, from Whitehall to the 45th degree of latitude, and thence about 24 miles to St. Johns in Canada, affording an easy communication with that province and with New York. This lake is connected with Hudson river, at Albany, by a canal 64 miles in length; so that the towns lying on the shores of Lake Champlain have direct communication by water with the cities of Troy, Albany, Hudson, and New York, and, by means of the great western canal, with the great western lakes. The length of this lake from south to north, measured in a straight line from one extremity to the other, and sup

formerly had an abundance, have ceased to receive the necessary supply of water during a considerable portion of the year; and many mill sites, which were once thought valuable, have, from the same cause, become entirely useless. One of the principal causes of this diminution of our streams is supposed to be the cutting down of the forests, which formerly threw off immense quantities of vapor into the atmosphere, which was again precipitated upon the earth in rain and snow. But it is believed that the quantity of water which annually passes off in our streams is not so much less than formerly as is generally imagined. Before the country was cleared, the whole surface of the ground was deeply covered with leaves, limbs, and logs, and the channels of all the smaller streams were much obstruct-posing it to terminate northerly at St. ed by the same. The consequence was, that, when the snows dissolved in the spring, or the rains fell in the summer, the waters were retained among the leaves, or retarded by the other obstructions, so as to pass off slowly, and the streams were kept up, nearly uniform as to size, during the whole year. But since the country has become settled, and the obstructions, which retarded the water, removed by freshets, when the snows melt or the rains fall, the waters run off from the surface of the ground quickly, the streams are raised suddenly, run rapidly, and soon subside. In consequence of the water being thus carried off more rapidly, the streams would be smaller than formerly during a considerable part of the year, even though the quantity of water be the same. It is a well known fact that the freshets in Vermont are more sudden and violent than when the country was new.

The waters of the lakes, ponds and streams are universally soft, miscible with soap, and in general free from foreign substances. And the same may be said of most the springs, particularly on the Green Mountains, and in that portion of the state lying east of these mountains. The waters of most of the springs and wells in the western part of the state are rendered hard and unsuitable for washing by the lime they hold in solution, and there are many springs which are highly impregnated with Epsom salts, and others containing iron, sulphuretted hydrogen, &c. These mineral springs will be described in another place.

Lakes and Ponds. Small lakes and ponds are found in all parts of Vermont, but there are no large bodies of water which lie wholly within the state. Lake Champlain lies between this state and the

Johns, is 126 miles. Its width varies from one fourth of a mile to 13 miles, and the mean width is about 4 miles. This would give an area of 567 square miles, two thirds of which lie within the limits of Vermont. The waters, which this lake receives from Vermont, are drained, by rivers and other streams, from 4088 miles of its territory. Its depth is generally sufficient for the navigation of the largest vessels. It received its present name from Samuel Champlain, a French nobleman, who discovered it in the spring of 1609, and who died at Quebec in 1635, and was not drowned in its waters, as has been often said.* One of the names given to this lake by the aborigines is said to have been Caniaderi-Guarunte, signifying the mouth or door of the country. If so, it was very appropriate, as it forms the gate-way between the country on the St. Lawrence and that on the Hudson. The name of this lake in the Abenâ qui tongue was Petawa-bouque, signifying alternate land and water, in allusion to the numerous islands and projecting points of land along the lake. Previous to the settlement of the country by Europeans, this lake had long been the thorough-fare between hostile and powerful Indian tribes, and its shores the scene of many a mortal conflict. And after the settlement, it continued the same in reference to the French and English colonies, and subsequently in reference to the English in Canada and the United States. In consequence of this peculiarity of its location, the name of Lake Champlain stands connected with some of the most interesting events in the annals of our country; and the transactions associated with the names of Ticonderoga, and Crown Point,

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MEMPHREMAGOG LAKE.

and Plattsburgh, and many other places, united with the variety and beauty of the scenery, the neatness and accommodation of the steamboats, and the unrivalled excellency of their commanders, render a tour through this lake one of the most interesting and agreeable to the enlightened traveller. A historical account of the most important transactions upon Lake Champlain, together with some account of the navigation of the lake, and particularly of the steamboats which have been built upon it, will be found in part second, and a much more minute description of the lake under its name in part third.

hall.

BAYS, SWAMPS, ISLANDS, SOIL. Besides these there are several smaller bays lying along the east shore of Lake Champlain, and a considerable bay at the south end of Lake Memphremagog, called South bay. Most of these bays will be more particularly described under their names in part third, and also some of the most important bays lying along the west shore of Lake Champlain, and belonging to New York.

Swamps.-These are hardly of sufficient importance to deserve a separate notice. Though considerably numerous, they are, in general, of small extent, and, in many cases, have been, or may be Memphremagog lake is situated on the drained and converted into excellent north line of the state, and about midway lands. They are most common in the between lake Champlain and Connecticut northern and northeastern parts of the river. It extends from south to north, state. In the county of Essex are several and is nearly parallel with lake Cham- unsettled townships, which are said to be plain. It is 30 miles long, and the aver- made up of hills and mountains with age width about two miles. One third swamps lying between them, which renpart of this lake lies in Vermont; the oth- der them to a great extent incapable of er two thirds in Cañada. The name of settlement. There is a considerable tract this lake in the Abenâqui tongue was of swampy land at the south end of MemMem-plow-bouque, signifying a large ex-phremagog lake, and another in Highgate panse of water. This, together with numerous small lakes and ponds, which lie wholly within the state, will be described in part third, either under their names, or in the account of the towns in which they are situated. There is abundant evidence that most of our lakes and ponds were formerly much more extensive than they are at present, and that they have been diminished, both by the deposit of earthy matter brought in by the streams, and by the deepening of the channels at their outlets; and there is also sufficient proof of the former existence of many ponds in this state, which have long since become dry land by the operation of the same causes. Several of these will be pointed out in the descriptions of the rivers in part third, particularly in the description of Winooski river, Barton river, &c.

about the mouth of Missisco river. When the country was new, there were many stagnant coves along the margin and among the islands of Lake Champlain, which, during the hotter parts of the summer, generated intermittent and bilious fevers. But, since the clearing of the country, these have been, to a considerable extent, filled up, and, with the causes which produced them, those disorders have nearly disappeared.

Islands. The principal islands belonging to Vermont, are South Hero, North Hero, and La Motte. South Hero, called also Grand Island, is 13 miles long, and is divided into two townships, by the name of South Hero and Grand Isle. North Hero is about 11 miles long, but very narrow, and constitutes a township bearing the same name as the island. Isle la Motte lies westward of North Hero, and constitutes a township by the same name. A more particular account of these islands, and also a description of Juniper island and several others lying in Lake Champlain, will be found under their names in part third.

Bays.-The shores of Lake Champlain are indented by numerous bays, most of which are small and of little conMissisco bay is the largest of sequence. these, and belongs principally to Vermont, lying between the townships of Alburgh and Highgate, and extending some distance into Canada. The other bays of Soil and Productions.-The soil of most consequence, lying along the east Vermont is generally a rich loam, but vashore of the lake and belonging to Ver-ries considerably according to the nature mont, are M'Quam bay in Swanton, Belamaqueen bay lying between St. Albans and Georgia, Mallets bay in Colchester, Burlington bay between Appletree point and Red Rocks point, Shelburne bay between Red Rocks point and Pottier's point, Button bay in Ferrisburgh, and about it by Dr. Dwight, Mr. Kendall, and other East bay between Westhaven and White-travellers and critics. But we use it, notwithstand

and compositions of the rocks in the dif ferent parts of the state. Bordering our lakes, ponds, and rivers, are considerable tracts of rich and beautiful intervale*

*Intervale. This word has not yet found a place in our dictionaries, and there has been much carping

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