Hill opened a school for girls in the magazine or cellar of the house in which they resided; the first day she had twenty pupils, and in two months one hundred and sixty-seven. Of the first ninety-six, not more than six could read at all, and that very imperfectly; and not more than ten or twelve knew a letter. At the time of our visit, the school numbered nearly five hundred; and when we entered the large room, and the scholars all rose in a body to greet us as Americans, I felt a deep sense of regret that, personally, I bad no hand in such a work, and almost envied the feelings of my companion, one of its patrons and founders. Besides teaching them gratitude to those from whose country they derived the privileges they enjoyed, Mr. Hill had wisely endeavored to impress upon their minds a respect for the constituted authorities, particularly important in that agitated and unsettled community; and on one end of the wall, directly fronting the seats of the scholars, was printed, in large Greek characters, the text of Scripture, 'Fear God, honor the king.'

"It was all important for the missionaries not to offend the strong prejudices of the Greeks by any attempt to withdraw the children from the religion of their fathers; and the school purports to be, and is intended for, the diffusion of elementary education only; but it is opened in the morning with prayer, concluding with the Lord's Prayer as read in our churches, which is repeated by the whole school aloud; and on Sundays, besides the prayers, the creed, and sometimes the Ten Commandments, are recited, and a chapter from the Gospels is read aloud by one of the scholars, the missionaries deeming this more expedient than to conduct the exercises themselves. The lesson for the day is always the portion appointed for the gospel of the day in their own church; and they close by singing a hymn. The room is thrown open to the public, and is frequently resorted to by the parents of the children and strangers; some coming, perhaps, says Mr. Hill, to hear what these babblers will say,' and 'other some' from a suspicion that we are setters forth of strange gods.'...... But the principal and most interesting part of this missionary school was the female department, under the direction of Mrs. Hill, the first, and except at Syra, the only school for females in all Greece, and particularly interesting to me, from the fact that it owed its existence to the active benevolence of my own countrywomen. At the close of the Greek revolution, female education was a thing entirely unknown in Greece, and the women of all classes were in a most deplorable state of ignorance. When the strong feeling that ran through our country in favor of this struggling people had subsided, and Greece was freed from the yoke of the Mussulman, an association of ladies in the little town of Troy, perhaps instigated somewhat by an inherent love of power and extended rule, and knowing the influence of their sex in a cultivated state of society, formed the project of establishing at Athens a school exclusively for the education of females; and, humble and unpretending as was its commencement, it is becoming a more powerful instrument in the civilization and moral and religious improvement of Greece, than all that European diplomacy has ever done for her. The girls were distributed into different classes, according to their age and advancement; they had clean faces and

hands, a rare thing with Greek children, and were neatly dressed, many of them wearing frocks made by ladies at home (probably at some of our sewing societies); and some of them had attained such an age, and had such fine, dark, rolling eyes, as to make even a northern temperament feel the powerful influence they would soon exercise over the rising, excitable generation of Greeks, and almost make him bless the hands that were directing that influence aright. "Mr. and Mrs. Hill accompanied us through the whole establishment, and, being Americans, we were every where looked upon and received by the girls as patrons and fathers of the school, both which characters I waved in favor of my friend; the one because he was really entitled to it, and the other because some of the girls were so well grown that I did not care to be regarded as standing in that venerable relationship. The didaskalissas, or teachers, were of this description, and they spoke English. Occasionally Mr. Hill called a little girl up to us, and told us her history, generally a melancholy one, as, being reduced to the extremity of want by the revolution; or an orphan, whose parents had been murdered by the Turks; and I had a conversation with a little Penelope, who, however, did not look as if she would play the faithful wife of Ulysses, and, if I am a judge of physiognomy, would never endure widowhood twenty years for any man.

"Before we went away, the whole school rose at once and gave us a glorious finale with a Greek' hymn. In a short time, these girls will grow up into women and return to their several families; others will succeed them, and again go out, and every year hundreds will distribute themselves in the cities and among the fastnesses of the mountains, to exercise over their fathers, and brothers, and lovers, the influence of the education acquired here; instructed in all the arts of woman in civilized domestic life, firmly grounded in the principles of morality, and of religion purified from the follies, absurdities, and abominations of the Greek faith. I have seen much of the missionary labors in the East, but I do not know an institution which promises so surely the happiest results. If the women are educated, the men cannot remain ignorant; if the women are enlightened in religion, the men cannot remain debased and degraded Christians."-Vol. I, pp. 61–67.

From all we have heard of the condition of Greece, rich as she is in the memories and the glories of the past, we cannot avoid the conviction, that she is lamentably deficient in all that constitutes the growth and promise of a rising people. The reports of travellers, who go to ponder amidst her time-honored ruins, and survey her modern resources, colored with enthusiasm as they often are, all go to confirm us in the opinion, that, at this moment, she is far more the object of Christian philanthropy, than of political sympathy, and that the only efficient aid which can be given to assist her on in her national career, is to pour upon her people the light of learning, and of

uncorrupted Christianity. We rejoice that this aid is now extended, for we regard the few missionaries, who have gone to her shores, as conferring upon her a far greater benefit than all the patriot hosts who flocked to join her revolutionary standard. Since Mr. Stephens's visit, many new missionaries have joined the little band whose labors have been so successfully commenced. The number is yearly increasing, and we look forward to the time when the whole population of that land of "the unforgotten brave" shall have learned from the lips of our own countrymen the lessons of a wisdom far higher than that dispensed in the schools of her ancient sages.

A period of revolution is always the golden age of adventurers, and when that of Greece burst upon the world, it summoned from their lurking-places the restless multitudes, many of them bankrupts alike in fortune and in fame, who, from any rank of life, both in Europe and America, are ever ready to rally under any banner of political change. At Napoli, Mr. Stephens had an opportunity to observe the materials which Greece had been obliged to employ in her recent revolution. This place had been the seat of government during the reign of Capo d'Istria; and its hotels and restaurants were at this time crowded with the "soldiers of fortune," who had thronged to those shores to fight the battles of Grecian independence, and were now reposing upon their fading laurels, until another outbreak of popular violence should call them away to new fields of conquest and renown. We are greatly mistaken, if that unhappy country has not already found that the vices and depredations of these warriorphilanthropists, who still linger among her people, are making large deductions from all the good she has reaped from her national independence. We quote our author's account of some of them:

"Napoli had always been the great gathering place of the philHellenists, and many, appropriating to themselves that sacred name, were hanging round it still. All over Europe, thousands of men are trained up to be shot at for so much per day; the soldier's is as regular a business as that of the lawyer or merchant, and there is always a large class of turbulent spirits constantly on the look-out for opportunities, and ever ready with their swords to carve their way to fortune. I believe that there were men who embarked in the cause of Greece with as high and noble purposes as ever animated the warrior; but of many, there is no lack of charity in saying that, however good they might be as fighters, they were not much as

men; and I am sorry to add, that, from the accounts I heard in Greece, some of the American phil-Hellenists were rather shabby fellows. Mr. M., then resident in Napoli, was accosted one day in the streets by a young man, who asked him where he could find General Jarvis. What do you want with him?' said Mr. M. 'I hope to obtain a commission in his army.' 'Do you see that dirty fellow yonder?' said Mr. M., pointing to a ragged patriot, passing at the moment; 'well, twenty such fellows compose Jarvis's army, and Jarvis himself is no better off.' 'Well, then,' said the young American, I believe I'll join the Turks! Allen, another American patriot, was hung at Constantinople. One bore the sacred name of Washington; a brave but unprincipled man. Mr. M. had heard him say, that if the devil himself should raise a regiment, and would give him a good commission, he would willingly march under him. He was struck by a shot from the fortress of Napoli, while directing a battery against it; was taken on board his Britannic majesty's ship Asia, and breathed his last, uttering curses on his country."—Vol. I, pp. 97-98.

While at Foggi, in Turkey, Mr. Stephens has his attention attracted to the manner in which the Greek church is accustomed to celebrate one of the leading events recorded in the Scripture history. We quote his description of the scene, as an illustration of the absurd mummeries which, in this ancient portion of the Christian church, have been engrafted upon the simple institutions of our holy religion:

"It was the Saturday before Easter Sunday, and the resurrection of our Saviour was to be celebrated at midnight, or, rather, the beginning of the next day, according to the rites and ceremonies of the Greek church. It was also the last of the forty days' fasting, and the next day commenced feasting. Supper was prepared for us, at which meat was put upon the table for me only; my Greek friend being supposed not to eat meat during the days of fasting. He had been, however, two years out of Greece ; and though he did not like to offend the prejudices of his countrymen, he did not like fasting. I felt for my fellow-traveller; and, cutting up some meat into small parcels, kept my eye upon the door while he whipped them into his mouth. After supper, we lay down upon the divan, with large quilts over us, my friend having promised to rise at twelve o'clock and accompany me to the Greek church.

“At midnight, we were roused by the chant of the Greeks in the streets, on their way to the church. We turned out, and fell into a procession of five hundred people, making the streets as light as day with their torches. At the door of the church, we found our host, sitting at a table with a parcel of wax tapers on one side, and a box to receive money on the other. We each bought a taper, and went in. After remaining there at least two hours, listening to a monotonous and unintelligible routine of prayers and chants, the priests came out of the holy doors, bearing aloft an image of our Saviour

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on the cross, ornamented with gold leaf, tassels, and festoons of artificial flowers, passed through the church, and out of the opposite door. The Greeks lighted their tapers and formed into a procession behind them, and we did the same. Immediately outside the door, up the staircase, and on each side of the corridor, allowing merely room enough for the procession to pass, were arranged the women, dressed in white, with long white veils, thrown back from their faces, however, laid smooth over the tops of their heads, and hanging down to their feet. Nearly every woman, old or young, had a child in her arms. In fact, there seemed to be as great a mustering of children as of men and women, and, for aught that I could see, as much to the edification of the former as the latter. A continued chant was kept up during the movements of the procession, and perhaps for half an hour after the arrival of the priests at the courtyard, when it rose to a tremendous burst. The torches were waved in the air; a wild, unmeaning, and discordant scream or yell rang through the hollow cloisters, and half a dozen pistols, two or three muskets, and twenty or thirty crackers were fired. This was intended as a feu-de-joie, and was supposed to mark the precise moment of our Saviour's resurrection. In a few moments the phrenzy seemed to pass away; the noise fell from a wild clamor to a slow chant, and the procession returned to the church. The scene was striking, particularly the part outside the church; the dead of night; the waving of torches; the women with their long white dresses, and the children in their arms, &c.; but, from beginning to end, there was nothing solemn in it.

"Returned to the church, a priest came round with a picture of the Saviour risen; and, as far as I could make it out, holding in his hand the Greek flag, followed by another priest with a plate to receive contributions. He held out the picture to be kissed, then turned his hand to receive the same act of devotion, keeping his eye all the time upon the plate which followed to receive the offerings of the pious, as a sort of payment for the privilege of the kiss. His manner reminded me of the Dutch parson, who, immediately after pronouncing a couple man and wife, touching the bridegroom with his elbow, said, 'And now, where ish mine dollar? I kissed the picture, dodged his knuckles, paid my money, and left the church. I had been there four hours, during which time, perhaps, more than a thousand persons had been completely absorbed in their religious ceremonies; and, though beginning in the middle of the night, 1 have seen more yawning at the theatre, or at an Italian opera, than I saw there. They now began to disperse, though I remember I left a crowd of regular amateurs, at the head of whom were our sailors, still hanging round the desk of an exhorting priest, with an earnestness that showed a still craving appetite.

"I do not wonder that the Turks look with contempt upon Christians; for they have constantly under their eyes the disgusting mummeries of the Greek church, and see nothing of the pure and sublime principles our religion inculcates. Still, however, there was something striking and interesting in the manner in which the Greeks in this Turkish town had kept themselves, as it were, a peculiar people, and, in spite of the brands of 'dog' and 'infidel,'