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reign of the Empress Anne. The tower in which it hung having been burned seven years later, it fell, and remained buried in the earth for 100 years, when it was placed upon the present pedestal. It is now used as a chapel. It is almost impossible to give an idea of its immense size, and must be seen to be appreciated. Its height is over 21 feet, and circumference 67 feet; its weight 400,000 pounds; and, at the present price of the material, it must be worth nearly $2,000,000! Its weight is eleven times greater than the largest bell in France, that at the Cathedral of Rouen. One of the bells in the tower weighs 64 tons, but looks like an ordinary steam-boat bell when compared to the Tzar Rolokol, "King of Bells."

Close to the Kremlin walls, on the outside, stands the cathedral church of St. Basil. Russian churches are, as a general thing, very much alike, but this one is entirely different from all we have ever yet seen. It stands on a very conspicuous point, and possesses no fewer than twenty domes and towers, which are not only of different shapes and sizes, but are gilded and painted in all possible variety of colors. There is no main chapel or church in the whole building, each dome containing a separate place of worship, where services can be carried on in each without disturbing the worshipers in any other. It was erected by Ivan the Terrible, who, it is said, was so well pleased with the work of the Italian architect that, after eulogizing his skill, he ordered his eyes put out, that he might never erect another!

The Chapel of the Iberian Mother of God, the Monastery of Douskoi, and the Foundling Hospital, are all well worth a visit.

There are but three Theatres in Moscow -the Alexander theatre, for Russian operas and dramas; the French theatre, for the performance of French pieces; and a small theatre for pantomimes.

The University of Moscow is one of the finest in the empire. It contains at present about 1000 pupils. There is a remarkable collection of minerals; also of human skeletons and human hearts, with magnificent microscopic illustrations by Lieberkuhn.

The palace and gardens of Peterskoi were founded by the Empress Elizabeth; they

are a short distance beyond the walls of the city. The gardens are the great re sort of the middling classes on summer evenings, and are filled with booths, restaurants, cafés, and tea-gardens, with a pretty little summer theatre. Whole families come from the city, and bring their tea-urns with them, make it in the presence of thousands, and sit and drink it, a tea-cup in one hand, and a piece of sugar in the other; they never put their sugar into the tea. The palace, which is small, has very little to recommend it historically or otherwise. It was here Napoleon retired from the plains of Moscow, and here, in sight of the blazing city, he dictated the intelligence to France.

Before the traveler leaves Moscow he must make an excursion to the Empress's Villa at the Sparrow hills, from whence there is a magnificent view of the city. The villa was presented to the empress dowager by Count Orloff. It will be necessary to procure a ticket of admission before you leave the city; this your valet de place will procure for you.

The Riadi and market-places, of course, you will visit, and that, too, with infinite amusement. All the shops for the sale of any particular kind of goods will be found in the same locality.

Don't purchase furs in Russia; it is a great mistake; you can buy the same in Berlin, Paris, London, or New York for twenty per cent. less.

The traveler, on his return from Russia, may take any of the numerous routes and different lines of ships, touching at Stockholm, Copenhagen, Elsinore, and Christiania; or he may, if he wishes to save time and shorten his sea voyage, go by Lubeck or Kiel, and by railway to Paris. This last will be the most expeditious, except returning direct by rail. If he wish to accompany us to Spain in the most direct manner, and if he wish to visit Madrid first, by proceeding direct to Paris, then to Marseilles, we will find steamers leaving weekly for Alicante, from which place there is a railroad direct to Madrid. This is the only route by which you can visit Madrid by rail. If you return from Russia by England, you may either spend a few weeks in England, Ireland, and Scotland, or proceed direct to Paris, whence commences the tour to Spain.

SWEDEN, DENMARK, AND NORWAY.

HELSINGFORS.

[SWEDEN, DENMARK, AND NORWAY.]

ROUTE No. 17.

From St. Petersburg to London, via Finland, Sweden, Denmark, and Hamburg.

Steamers start every two weeks from the dock in the Vassili Ostroff for Stockholm, via Finland and Revel. Fare about 20 rubles. The accommodations are good, and the trip very desirable. It occupies from two to four days, according to stoppages.

Аво.

with plastered and yellow-washed houses, giving it the appearance of a town built to order. The town-hall is quite a fine building. Continuing W.N.W. along the coast, we enter an archipelago of islands which reaches almost to our journey's end. After 100 miles we arrive at

Abo

Abo (pronounced Obo), the ancient capital of Finland. The Societats Haus is very fair, and is perhaps the most northwardly hotel in the world-latitude 6010. Before leaving St. Petersburg disencum- stands on the Aurajoke, about 3 miles from ber yourself of any surplus paper money, the gulf. Population 14,000. It is the as it can not be sold out of Russia. At seat of an archbishop. The cathedral was the Bank, if you present your passport the first Christian temple in this northern vised to leave, gold is furnished you at 3 land, but its saints have been destroyed, per cent. premium; and, if you receive altars demolished, walls whitewashed, and any too much of it, you can readily sell it columns pewed. Its treasures are a few in the streets at an advance of 5 per cent. old monuments, and the bodies of various dignitaries, which, after the lapse of a few centuries, have been converted into adipocere. In consequence of the hatred of Russia entertained by the Finns, the seat of government was removed from Abo in 1819. There is an observatory here. The It houses are mostly of one story, with wide streets and no visible business, though there are some manufactories.

As you steam down the Gulf of Finland, the last of St. Petersburg visible is the golden dome of the Isaac Church, surmounting the horizon after every thing else has disappeared. Two hundred miles W.S.W. is Revel, the capital of Esthonia, a pleasant city of 25,000 inhabitants. consists of the city proper, which is small, and the surrounding suburbs. The ordinary language of business and intercourse is the German. Revel was taken from the Swedes in 1710, since which it has remained an integral part of Russia. It is much resorted to by the Russians as a wateringplace, and has many striking buildings. It carries on an extensive commerce with all parts of the world.

Crossing the Gulf of Finland we arrive at Helsingfors, the present political capital of Finland. Population 16,000. Hotel, Societats Haus. It is defended by the great citadel of Sveaborg, 3 miles below, at the entrance of the harbor. This citadel, in August, 1855, was attacked by the combined British and French fleets, but not taken, though some damage was sustained. The harbor is very good-suitable for the heaviest line-of-battle ships. The University of Helsingfors has a library of 40,000 volumes. The town was nearly destroyed by fire some 40 years ago, since which time it has been rebuilt

We now stand out into the Gulf of Bothnia, but still environed by our maze of islands. These cease at length for a few hours, when again we enter another archipelago, the Aland [Oland] Islands. About 80 of these are inhabited by some 15,000 people. The fortress of Bomarsund, on the principal island, was taken by the combined British and French fleets in August, 1854. Those only who have sailed through the Manitoulines of Lake Huron, or explored the Thousand Isles of the St. Lawrence, can imagine the beauty of this whole voyage, from the time we left Helsingfors until our arrival at Stockholm. The multitudinous islets accompany us the entire passage, with two small intermissions-between those that line the coast of Finland and the Alands, and between the latter and those that line the coast of Sweden-the eternal granite ever lifting itself out of the water, and ever crowned with luxuriant forests of firs and birches.

Four hundred and forty miles W.S.W. | of St. Petersburg we arrive at the city of Stockholm.

STOCKHOLM.

Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, is built partly upon some small islands that lie at the entrance of the Maelar Lake, and partly on the main land, and occupies one of the most striking and remarkable situations in the world. The view of the city when approached from the Baltic is extremely grand and imposing. It contains a population of 102,000 inhabitants. Principal hotels are II. Rydberg and H. Kungcarl.

Stockholm is the residence of the royal family. The present reigning king of Sweden and Norway is Charles XV., who is great-grandson of the Empress Josephine, and cousin of the present emperor Napoleon III., his father having married Josephine Maximilienne Eugenie, daughter of Eugène Beauharnais, son of Josephine and uncle of Napoleon III. The king was born in 1826.

The three islands upon which the older portion of the city stands are the Gustarsholm (Gustavus Island), Riddarsholm (Knight's Island), and Helge Antsholm (Holy Ghost's Island). On the first-named of the three stands the royal palace, together with many of the principal public edifices. These islands are connected by long bridges with the main land. The larger portion of the private houses are built on the main land, which on the north side is called Nörnmalm (north suburb), and slopes gradually backward from the shore, but on the south side, or the Södermalm, rises in precipitous cliffs, where the handsome white houses sparkle in the midst of the most luxuriant foliage. The streets of Stockholm are mostly unpaved, excepting with round pebbles, and are generally narrow and crooked, but some of the public buildings are very fine.

Although Stockholm is the principal place in the kingdom for foreign commerce, its manufactures are inconsiderable. These are principally woolen, silk, cotton, and glassware. There are also a number of refineries and breweries.

The King's Palace, which is an immense quadrangular granite and brick edifice, and has a majestic appearance from what

ever point it is viewed, is the principal object of attraction at Stockholm. It contains the Picture - Gallery, Sculpture - Gallery, Royal Museum, Royal Library, Cabinet of National Antiquities, and private apartments of the king and queen.

The col

The Picture-Gallery is very indifferet, and, with the exception of a few pieces by Claude, Rubens, Teniers, Paul Potter, and Paul Veronese, are not worth describing. The Sculpture-Gallery, however, contains some perfect gems, among which are the Sleeping Endymion, found at the villa of Hadrian, near Tivoli; also a beautiful Fawn, and a Love and Psyche. lection of drawings has some gems by Raphael and Guido. In the Royal Library, which contains about 85,000 volumes, there is a Bible, printed in 1521, with marginal notes by Martin Luther, and one in manuscript, written in gold on leaves of vellum, supposed to have been executed in the 7th century. The Cabinet of Medallions and Northern Antiquities will well repay an examination. The private apartments contain some very fine works of art, but can not be seen at all times.

The cathedral church of St. Nicholas adjoins the palace: it is imposing from its magnitude. It contains some fine paintings, monuments, and sculptures of merit; among the latter is an altar-piece representing the Birth, Passion, Death, and Resurrection of Christ, carved in ebony, and adorned with gold and silver, and a remarkable piece of carving representing St. George and the Dragon. The kings of Sweden and Norway are crowned in the Cathedral.

The most interesting church in Stockholm is the Ridderholm, which is now used as a mausoleum for the royal family. The building is erected in the Gothic style, and is surmounted with a beautiful cast-iron steeple, the former one having been de stroyed by lightning. In addition to the equestrian statues, covered with exquisitely-finished armor, which adorn the entrance to the church, it contains the remains of the great Gustavus Adolphus, who died on the battle-field of Lutzen: his sarcophagus is surrounded with trophies and relics of different victories, consisting of flags, swords, drums, and keys, also the bloodstained clothes in which he died. The chapel immediately in front of this con

tains the tomb of the celebrated Charles be seen an immense vase of porphyry nine XII. its walls are hung with different feet high and twenty-seven in circumferwarlike trophies. The shields belonging ence; cost $50,000! to the knights of the Order of the Seraphim are hung round the walls of the choir.

The Church of St. James, of Adolphus Frederick, St. Katrine, and the Admiralty church, are the next in importance.

The Riddarhus, or Hall of the Diet for the assembly of the nobles, was built in the time of Christina: its walls are hung with the armorial bearings of the principal Swedish families, about 3000 in number. The president's chair, which is at the upper end of the hall, is a fine specimen of carving in ebony and ivory. The nobles' seats are arranged on the right, the clergy's on the left, and the town and county deputies in the front.

The principal statues in Stockholm are Gustavus I., situated in front of the Riddarhus it is of bronze, and stands on a marble pedestal. He was born 1496, died 1560. The equestrian statue of Gustavus Adolphus, surnamed the Great, and grandson of the former, stands in the square in front of the Theatre Royal. In the square Charles XIII. stands a splendid statue of Charles XIII. There are also statues of Charles XII., XI., and X. in different parts of the city.

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In Gustavus Adolphus Square stands the Royal Theatre, erected by Gustavus III., who was assassinated here at a masquerade ball by a Swedish officer named Ankarstroem in 1792. Here Jenny Lind made her début, and acquired her worldwide popularity. She is as much adored by the natives of Stockholm as Thorwaldsen is by the citizens of Copenhagen. After her return from London, where she had gained unprecedented honors, she devoted the proceeds of her whole season at this theatre to the founding a school for the gratuitous musical education of the poor.

Travelers should by all means visit the zoological gardens, which are very beautifully arranged.

The villa Bystrom, a lovely spot, is also situated in this park. A small fee is expected from visitors. Bremner, speaking of this park, says: "It is, without exception, the finest public park in Europe. The rugged peninsula, of which it occupies the greater part, is so finely varied with rocks and trees, that Art, which must do every thing in the parks of other great capitals, has here only not to injure Nature. The margin of the peninsula is covered with old-fashioned eating-houses, etc. Within this confused circle runs the beautiful carriage-drive, lined with modern villas of classical design, Swiss cottages, Italian verandas, etc. Among these are placed coffee-houses, equestrian theatres, and dancing-rooms, while the space between them and the road is occupied with flower-pots and shrubberies, through which rustic seats are scattered. In this park is the bust of Bellman, a lyric poet of great excellence in the time of Gustavus III. The anniversary of the poet's birth is kept with great rejoicings by all classes, but especially the Bacchanalian Club, whose members, headed by the king himself, come out in festive array to parade round his bust, which is very appropriately decorated with grapes and vine-leaves." The Haga Park, as well as the Park of Carlberg, are charming places of resort.

A valet de place had better be engaged a few days after your arrival. The usual fare is about $1 per day. We wish gentlemen travelers to understand that it is a great breach of good manners to enter even a candy-shop in Stockholm without taking off your hat.

Be particular in having your passport viséd by the Russian minister before the time for sailing for St. Petersburg, else you can not procure a ticket.

The costumes of Stockholm are very picturesque, more especially of the Dalecarlian women, who possess a monopoly of the ferry-boats.

The Swedish ladies are unquestionably the most beautiful of the north of Europe.

The principal attraction in the suburbs is the Deer Park, with its lovely villas, drives, cafés, and places of amusement. In it is situated the king's palace of Rosendal, which contains some very splendid There are lines of steamers running pictures. At one side of the palace may north as far as Tornea, in Lapland, if the

traveler has a desire to visit those hyper-reach Lake Wenner, which is 94 miles long, borean regions.

A very pleasant excursion by canal, requiring two days, is to visit the city of Upsala, 45 miles N.W. of Stockholm. This is one of the finest of old "finished" cities. Hotels, Stads Nya, de la Poste. Its quiet dignity is never disturbed by the irreverent rattle of business. Its University has a library of 100,000 volumes, comprising many very rare and valuable works. A copy of the Four Evangelists, with silver letters on parchment, of the 5th century, is a spoil of war of the great Gustavus Adolphus. A fine old cathedral is here, and a botanic garden, which was founded by Linnæus.

Gamla Upsala, 3 miles off, contains the immense mounds which mark the burialplaces of Odin, Thor, and Freya, the gen tlemen and lady after whom we call Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday.

Returning to Stockholm, we pass the Castle of Skokloster, built by the celebrated Marshal Wrangel.

A well-served line of steamers runs by the lakes and canal to Gottenburg [Götheborg]. Time, 50 to 60 hours; fare about $10. Leaving Stockholm, we steam along among the 1300 islands of Lake Maelar to its most southern extremity. We then pass through the canal, and, going through an enormously deep cut, enter the Baltic. Skirting the main land, the omnipresent islands act as a breakwater. We soon see the fine ruin of Stegeborg, the spot whence Eric Stenbock ran away with Malin Sture in the heroic age of Swedish history.

At Söderkoping we re-enter the canal, and, passing through a country of the greatest beauty, our route lays along and through Lakes Roxen and Boren. Mounting 75 feet by seven sluices, the masonry of which is worthy of all admiration, we at length enter Lake Wetter. The passage of these locks gives us ample time to visit the villages and make agreeable pedestrian excursions. If the wind is fair, we now hoist our foremast and make sail; if not, the steam must do the work alone. Lake Wetter is 80 miles long, and is 295 feet above the sea level, being the summit level of the canal. All the cities on these interior lakes, by this canal, enjoy communication with the rest of the kingdom. Crossing the country and descending, we

being the largest body of fresh water in Europe after Lakes Ladoga and Onega in Russia. It is 147 feet above the level of the ocean. We now take the Gōtha River, and soon reach the celebrated

Falls of Trollhätta.-This is one of the finest cataracts in Europe, and, in regard to the volume of water, it is only exceeded by that of Schaffhausen, The whole series of falls is extremely beautiful, from the upper rapids, where the boiling river forces its way along its narrow and troub led channel, by the fall of Pollhem, where it takes a bold plunge of 70 feet, by the lower fall, where an island divides the rushing waters on the verge, only to have its base swept by the reunited stream, to the island of Toppo, where you stand enveloped in a maze of dashing waters till you half fear you will be swept down their resistless flood. There is a decent hotel here, and, if you have time, it is well worth your while to remain a day or two.

By means of 12 sluices, in a canal 3 miles long, the steamer takes you down to the lower level of the Götha, which now flows on its even course in a narrow valley between low hills of granite, wooded to the summit, and in a few hours we arrive at the city of

Gottenburg [Götheborg]. Hotels, Blums, Götha Kellare. There are some other hotels here-none very good. This is a handsome, well-built city, with a thorough basiness-like air. Population 30,000. It is divided into an upper and lower town, the latter containing many canals and docks, and the business localities. There is a very fine exchange here; also an arsenal, and, of course-for in these climes, where Nature is chary of her favors, they are more prized than where she is more liberal-an admirable botanic garden, with music playing every afternoon. An immense amount of business centres in this lively port, which monopolizes almost entirely the foreign commerce of Sweden.

A pretty excursion here is by rail to Johnsered, on Lake Aspen, some 9 miles. Steamers for Christiania leave two or three times a week.

Christiania, the capital of Norway, contains a population of 35,000 inhabitants." Principal hotels, Du Nord and Scandina via; fare low. Christiania is a well-built

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