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The New Museum contains some of Holbein the younger's paintings. The Rathhouse and Arsenal will repay a visit.

If going to Schaffhausen and the Falls of the Rhine instead of going to Basle, where there is little to see, take the cars for Zurich at Olten, railroad all the way to Schaffhausen. On arriving at the town take the omnibus-fare 1 fr.-or carriage to the Schweizerhof, about twenty minutes' drive. The position of this hotel, which is one of the best in Switzerland, is most magnificent. It was formerly the Hotel Webber. It is situated on the right bank of the River Rhine, immediately in front of the falls, at a height of fifteen hundred feet above the bed of the river. Prepare to spend a few days here; you will certainly enjoy them.

rets, the singular conformation of the roofs of the houses, the wall which surrounds it on the land side, the fine old Castle of Munnoth, and antique doors, all tend to give to Schaffhausen a most singular and picturesque appearance. It contains little to detain the traveler. The principal building is the Cathedral, erected between the 11th and 14th centuries: it is particularly noted for the solidity of its construction. Its interior is much disfigured by renovations, but its cloisters are well preserved. Notice the inscription on its immense clock, which dates back nearly four centuries: "Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango" (I call the living, I mourn the dead, I break the lightning). See Schiller's poems.

The Castle of Munnoth, erected in 1564 to give employment to the poor during a season of famine, is a singular specimen of fortification. Its form was proposed by Albert Dürer. It is provided with curious bomb-proof casemates, and the walls of its tower are eighteen feet thick. The town dates back to the eighth century. It was conquered by Austria in 1331, but declared its independence in 1415. The origin of the town is from schiffhausen (shiphouses), it being the principal dépôt for goods passing from Switzerland to Germany. The houses were built here for the protection of the boats in loading and unloading. Müller, the historian, was born here in 1752: many of his manuscripts are in the public library. Here also may be seen a model of the famous wooden bridge (one span of which was 365 feet) destroy

One of the best positions to get a fine view of the falls is in the garden attached to the Castle of Laufen, on the left bank of the river, immediately opposite the Schweizerhof Hotel; cross in the ferry-boat; fare half a franc. The castle and grounds belong to a private family, but, in virtue of a contract with the canton of Zurich, strangers are permitted to visit the castle and grounds; fee one franc. Visit the wooden balcony which almost overhangs this rush of waters, and there realize the stupendous impetus the river has secured in its numerous descents above the falls. The actual fall is about eighty feet. The water is divided into three shoots by two pillars of rock in the centre, and reminds one of Niagara on a small scale. Visit the Castle of Worth, and view the scene through the camera obscura: the effect is most pleased by the French under Oudinot in 1799. ing. The largest body of water falls during the months of June and July. Although this is one of the finest falls in Europe, don't expect to see a Niagara; yet the general landscape is superior to that in the vicinity of Niagara Falls. The whole range of the Alps, including Mt. Blanc, a distance of 185 miles, can be seen from this point.

Should you put up in the town of Schaffhausen, the hotel Krone is the best.

Schaffhausen is situated on the right bank of the Rhine, about two miles above the falls it contains 9000 inhabitants. It is distinguished particularly for its antique houses, none of which having been destroyed by fire for centuries. The tur

The present bridge was erected in 1843.
Visit the splendid promenade of Fäsistaub,
which commands a beautiful view of the
Rhine.

Schaffhausen to Constance, by railroad or steam-boat-we would decidedly recommend the steamer-time, by steamer ascending the river, 7 hours; descending from Constance to Schaffhausen, half that time. If in a hurry, take the cars: by the steamer you pass the Chateau of Arenaberg, the former residence of Queen Hortense, ex-queen of Holland, and mother of Napoleon III., and where that monarch plotted the revolution of France which resulted in the Strasburg disaster. It was bought by a native of Neuchatel in 1843 for $320,000,

but has since been purchased by the em- | for forty years. A dark blot will, howevperor. This is one of the loveliest spots er, forever rest on the memory of the Counon the Rhine. Between here and Con-cil for their treachery in arresting John stance we pass the celebrated Castle of Gottlieben, once the prison of those noted reformers, John Huss and Jerome of Prague. Pope John XXII., who was the instrument in their imprisonment, was himself contined here by the order of the Council of Con

stance.

A very elegant new iron bridge across the Rhine at Constance has recently been constructed, over which the railway runs to Schaffhausen, and under which our boat proceeds to the dock at

Constance, a very ancient but decayed city, which formerly boasted 50,000 inhabitants, now reduced to 6500: principal hotels, Hecht and Adler. Although situated on the Swiss side of the lake, it belongs to the duchy of Baden, having been ceded by Austria in 1805.

Huss and Jerome of Prague after the President of the Council, the Emperor Sigismund, had promised to give the former safe-conduct out of the reach of his enemies. Huss was treacherously seized, condemned, and burnt at the stake on the 6th July, 1415, and Jerome on the 30th May the following year. The works of Wicliffe were condemned to be burnt. The Council consisted of over 400 of the greatest magnates and scholars of the Continent, including emperors, popes, cardinals, bishops, and archbishops. The sittings continued four years, from 1414 to 1418. The place where Huss suffered martyrdom, a short distance from the city, is still pointed out: also the house in Paul's Strasse in which he lodged, and which contains a likeness of this celebrated theologian in relief on the wall.

Boats leave Constance for Lindau, Friederichshausen, and Bregenz several times every day. The whole fare from Schaffhausen to Bregenz, 9 fr. 80 c.

Lake Constance is the largest of the German lakes, thirty-five miles long by At its greatest depth it is eight wide. nearly one thousand feet deep. The Rhine

The Cathedral, or Munster of Constance, is a fine Gothic structure, founded in 1048; was rebuilt at the commencement of the 16th century. It was in this cathedral that John Huss was condemned. Robert Hallam, bishop of Salisbury, president of the English delegation which condemned him to be burnt, is buried in front of the high altar. The place is pointed out by a brass plate where Huss stood when receiv-enters it at the southeast, and issues from ing the sentence. Notice the bas-reliefs on the doors of the principal entrance. There are twenty compartments, representing scenes in the life of the Savior. Make the ascent of the tower: the view is magnificent. Examine the relics in the sacristy.

The ancient convent of the Dominicans, situated on a small island connected with the town by a bridge, is noted as the place of confinement of Huss: it is now used as a store-house. The Salle de la Douane, crected in 1388, contains numerous Roman, Germanic, and Huss relics; fee 1 fr. This building is particularly interesting from being the place of meeting of the famous Council of Constance, the object of which was to vindicate the authority of general councils, to which the Roman pontiff was declared to be amenable. The Council first proceeded to dispose of three popesJohn XXII., Gregory II., and Benedict X. They then elected Martin V., settling the variances that had disturbed the Church

it at the northwest. Its banks are noted for their great fertility, abounding in vineyards, corn-fields, and orchards, with handsome villas and smiling villages.

At Romanshorn you usually change boats. Since the completion of the railroad from this point to Zurich the travel has been very great. Many persons coming from the Rhine enter Switzerland ria Stuttgart, Ulm, and Friederichshausen; also those coming from Munich via Augsburg and Lindau, and vice versa. Travelers coming up the Rhine for the purpose of entering Switzerland we would strongly recommend, after visiting Baden-Baden, to go back to the Bruchsal Station and visit Stuttgart, one of the most interesting cities in Europe; then Ulm to Friederichshausen. The distance to Zurich is not much greater than by Basle, but the interest immeasurably so.

Lindau-Bairescherhof hotel, near the landing, very good: here you disembark if on your way to Munich. This small and

strongly-fortified town, belonging to the | is a high watch-tower and light-house. On kingdom of Bavaria, is very beautifully the port there is a monument to Maximilsituated on two small islands in Lake Con- ian II., erected in 1856, after the model of stance, and connected with the shore by Holbig: it rests on a pedestal, the sides long wooden bridges. On your right as of which are ornamented with the coats of you enter the harbor, an immense Bavarian arms of different cities, and figures reprelion, sitting on his hinder legs, greets you senting Navigation, Industry, Commerce, with any thing but a welcoming smile. and the Arts. On the opposite side of the entrance there

513

MONEY.

[TYROL.]

MODES OF TRAVEL

It is absolutely necessary that your pass

THE Tyrol is one of the provinces of pfenning. Paper is the principal currency. Austria, and is mountainous throughout. The notes in general use are one, two, five, It extends from Upper Austria, across the and ten gulden. When leaving the Tyrol, ranges of the Eastern Alps, to the Lake of be certain and get either gold or silver Garda upon the Italian side of the mount-(say francs) for any money you have left ains, and embraces the upper portions of in Austrian coin, or else you will lose conthe valley of the rivers Inn and Adige. siderable in discounts. Many of the higher summits of the Alps are comprised within the limits of the Tyr-port has the requisite visés, else you will ol. Among the most notorious are those surely get into trouble with the authori of the Drei-herrn Spitz, the Ortler Spitz, ties. and the Gross Glockner, or Big Bell. The celebrated Brenner Pass, which leads from Innspruck to the valley of the Adige, is within its territory; and the Pass of Stelvio, the highest carriage-road in the world, is on its border.

The best season to make the different excursions through the Tyrol is July and August for the northern frontier, September and October for the southern.

The best gold coin to take to the Tyrol is napoleons: it is much better known than English sovereigns. The coins of Bavaria and Austria both pass current in the Tyrol. The Austrian florin or gulden equals 50 c. U. S., and the Bavarian florin or gulden equals 40 c. U. S. Accounts are generally kept in convention munz, marked C. M., which indicates that there are only 60 kreutzers in the gulden, whereas, in common usage, there are 72. The tourist, when he is paying kreutzers away and getting guldens exchanged, had better infer that the reckoning is made 72 kr. to the gulden. Austria has recently adopted a new monetary system (the decimal). but there is no coin to correspond to it. Thus, the new florin (50 c. U. S.)=100 kreutzers, which equals two thirds of the Prussian thaler. Accounts in the Tyrol are mostly kept in the old style, 60 kr.-1 florin C. M.

The gold coin used is worth as follows: Sovereign=10 gulden. Napoleon=8 gulden. The Friedrich d'Or 8 gulden and 10 kreutzers, C. M.

The silver coin are "zwanzigers" or "lire"=164 c. U. S. cur., and pieces of 6 kreutzers 5 c. U. S. cur.

The copper coins are pieces of "1 kreutzer," "kreutzer," "kreutzer," and 1

Guides are not requisite in the Tyrol, with perhaps the exception of when making the ascent of the Gross Glockner, crossing Monte Gavia, between Kals and Heiligen Blut, and to the Pasterze Glacier. The best guides may be obtained at Innspruck or Bregenz. The regular price is 2 florins per day, and a small pour boire, although there is no fixed tariff as in Switzerland.

The most comfortable manner for families or parties to travel through the Tyrol is by vetturino-they are very comfortable, and good horses may be obtained-or better still with one's own carriage and posthorses. There is next the seperat-wagen, which belongs to the postal establishment, and is cheaper than the vetturino: a party of four persons may engage it, but, being covered, it is very hot and dusty in the summer. Then comes the eilwagen, or mail-coach, which runs upon all the principal roads and thoroughfares, and is quite roomy and expeditious. The omnibus, or stellwagen, is very slow and very cheap, running daily over all the principal roads, holding from ten to twelve persons: it travels about five miles per hour, at from six to nine kreutzers per mile; it also contains a coupé, holding three persons; the centre individual can see but little. To study the manners and customs of the people this is the conveyance, but a man must be sure proof against tobacco smoke. Ev. ery man and boy in the Tyrol smokes, and smokes all the time, and smokes the poorest kind of tobacco; consequently, when an omnibus is very full on a hot day, and it is impossible to see the dust for the smoke, or the smoke for the dust, most people would prefer a higher priced conveyance. In fact, if you want to carry on an

active flirtation with one of the female beau- | to Varenna in seven days. See 2d excurties of the Tyrol, it is fully as safe as pass- sion. From Varenna to Chiavenna, over ing through a tunnel. the Splugen Pass, via Mala, Thusis, and Coire, by rail to Zurich.

5. From Bregenz via Landeck, Finster

The author received the following prices, recently adopted, from the Austrian government, being much led astray by follow-münz Pass, Stelvio, Bormio, Bernini Pass, ing an English guide-book: For one horse, the Glaciers, Julier Pass, Tiefenkasten, to per post, 1 florin 70 kr. ; pour boire for pos- Coire. tillion per German mile (5 English miles), 35 kr.; one place in the eilwagen per German mile, 56 kr.; one place in the eilwagen from Bregenz to Innspruck, 16 fl. 10 kr.; one seperat-eilwagen, per post, 7 fl. 52 kr.; one seperat-eilwagen to Innspruck, 4 places, 98 fl. 47 kr.

The language spoken in the north of Tyrol is the German, that in the south the Italian.

We shall describe in detail the two principal routes. The first, direct from Bregenz to Innspruck, via Feldkirch, the Arleberg Pass, and Landeck; time three days. The other, which will give the traveler a very thorough knowledge of the Tyrol, is from Bregenz by the Arleberg Pass to Landeck, over the Finstermünz Pass to Meran and Botzen, and via Sterzing across the Brenner Pass to Innspruck. From thence to Munich via Salzburg, by rail, through one of the loveliest valleys in Europe.

The roads over all these routes are very good, and can be traveled with vetturino; single travelers by eilwagen or omnibus.

Bregenz, situated at the eastern end of Lake Constance, contains 3000 inhabitants. Hôtel d'Autriche, on the lake, the best. The landlord, who was formerly a guide, is well acquainted with the Tyrol, and will procure guides, horses, and vetturino for you.

It is almost impossible to give a description of any particular dress peculiar to the peasantry of the Tyrol, as it varies so much in the different Thals or valleys. The men generally wear brown jackets, breeches to the knee, stockings from about two inches below the breeches to the ankle, but no farther; the feet are covered with immense thick shoes; the hats partake of the Italian brigand style, high black velvet, ornamented with a cock's feather or bunch of flowers; and sooner expect to meet a dog without his tail than a Tyrolese without his porcelain pipe, and blue or red umbrella. The females usually wear short dark pet-pieces. There are several Roman ruins to ticoats, stuff jackets, and gray or green stockings, a Leghorn hat with an immense brim, a velvet cap like the males, or a loose handkerchief, never forgetting that interminable red or blue umbrella.

In addition to our direct route through the Tyrol to Munich via Bludenz, Stuben, Landeck, and Innspruck, there are several others which are very interesting, viz.:

1. From Bregenz to Venice in seven days, viz., via Landeck, Finstermünz Pass, Mals, Trafoi, Meran, and Botzen, in six days. From Botzen by rail in five hours to Verona, and three and a half hours to Venice.

2. Next, from Trafoi to the Baths of Bormio, Tirano, Sondrio, to Varenna, in seven days. See 1st excursion.

3. From Botzen to Sterzing, and over the Brenner Pass, in eight days from Bregenz.

See 1st excursion.

4. If wishing to return to Switzerland, not visiting Munich, in ten days the following excursion can be made: From Bregenz

The principal trade of Bregenz is exporting wooden houses, which are made by the peasants in the valley, and brought here in

be seen in and around the city. It was in this vicinity that Tiberius and Drusus fought the Vindelicians, having conveyed an army of Romans across the Lake Constance by means of a fleet constructed on its banks.

After ascending the hill of Gebhardsberg, or Schlossberg, where may be seen the ruins of the castle of the Counts of Montfort, a magnificent view of the whole of Lake Constance and the surrounding country may be obtained. After passing the town of Dornbirn, which contains 7000 inhabitants-nearly all of whom are employed making wooden houses, and the pretty town of Hohenems, we arrive at Feldkirch. Hôtel Post and Engel Gabriel. This town is a natural fortress inclosed by mountains, and was formerly the key to this side of the Tyrol, and guarded by the ancient castle of Schattenberg. The town is prettily situated on the River Ill; contains some 1700 inhabitants. There are several

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