year, on the 30th May, 22nd August, and 23rd November; on which occasions a grand military mass is performed, and the colours lowered to the celebrated saint and king. The Spanish banner and the sword of St. Ferdinand, also a small ivory image of the Virgin, which the king carried with him into battle, fastened to his saddle-bow, are kept in this chapel. There is a fine painted window of the Conversion of St. Paul in the Capilla de Santiago.

In the Sacristia Mayor, besides the paintings by Murillo before mentioned, is the "Descent from the Cross," by Pedro Campana, supposed to be a pupil of Michael Angelo. This picture formerly decorated the parish church of Murillo, who used frequently to stand watching it, and desired to be buried before it. It was broken into five pieces by the French, but was afterwards restored. Amongst the riches contained in the Capilla Mayor, is an immense Custodia, in silver, finished in 1587, by Juan d'Arfe. It forms a circular temple of four stories, and requires twenty-four men to carry it in procession. In this chapel are also shown the keys of the city, which were offered to King Ferdinand on his entry into Seville. A magnificent bronze candlestick, 25 ft. high, called El Tenebrario, is put up during the ceremonies of Holy Week.

Seville is renowned for religious processions. The grand ceremony of the Corpus Christi, is the most solemn and important of all. Strangers from all parts of Spain eagerly resort hither during that time. In front of the procession is borne the banner of the Cathedral, the staff and decorations of which are of silver and gold. The massive silver custodia above mentioned, is also carried upon these

occasions. Boys, in antique Spanish dresses, dance before the high altar during mass, both morning and evening, while the festival lasts. This is a privilege granted exclusively to this cathedral by the pope, of which the Sevillians are not a little proud. Of the 140 churches which existed in Seville before the French invasion, a considerable number were destroyed or converted into magazines during Soult's short rule. Among the most interesting that survive, are the San Lorenzo, containing some fine works by Montañes and others; San Clemente, with a splendid roof, and a picturesque high-altar, by Montañes; the magnificent church of San Pablo; San Pedro, with its Moorish tower; San Juan-de-la-Palma, formerly a mosque; San Isidoro, which, among other fine pictures, contains El Transito, the master piece of Roelas; Sta. Maria-la-Blanca, a synagogue prior to 1391; San Salvador, a collegiate church; San Vicente, founded in 300, &c.

The Caridad contains two magnificent pictures by Murillo: the "Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes," and " Moses striking the rock;" and two excellent medallions, Saint John the Baptist and the Child Jesus. The church of San Bernardo contains some good paintings.

The Audiencia, or Palace of Justice, is only remarkable for its extent. The Casa de Moneda is a very large edifice. The Tobacco Manufactory is a vast building, surrounded by a moat, and which might be taken for a fortified barrack. There are 4,540 hands employed here, 4,000 of them being women. There is a large foundry and artillery depot. The University contains nine colleges, and there are 120 richly endowed hospitals.

The Casa Lonja, or Consulado, is a fine building, forming a perfect square. The inner court, or patio, is paved with white and black marble, and in the middle is a marble fountain. In the upper apartment the celebrated archives of India (El Archivo de Indias) are kept.

The Palace of the Ayuntamiento is a striking edifice, its three façades being ornamented with Corinthian columns, rich pilasters, medallions of exquisite workmanship, with a profusion of flowers, foliage, arabesques, and figures of children and grotesques. The interior apartments are very richly adorned.

The ALCAZAR, although not equal to the grand remains of the Alhambra, is still an object of great interest. It contains seventy-eight apartments, all communicating with each other. The ceilings and walls are rich with arabesques, and are generally in a state of tolerable preservation. The most splendid of these saloons is the Hall of the Ambassadors. The lower portion of this, as well as that of the other apartments, is covered with glazed tiles, of the most beautiful and intricate pattern.

This magnificent structure was built by Abdalasis, about half a century before the conquest by St. Ferdinand. It was always the abode of monarchs, whenever the Spanish court was held at Seville. It was considerably enlarged by Don Pedro, and received farther additions and embellishments in the reign of Charles V. Philip V. removed his entire court here from Madrid, with the intention of making it his permanent residence. It has recently been embellished and decorated at the expense of the Duke of Montpensier.

A fine marble staircase leads from the upper rooms into the

garden. This pleasant garden, as well as the entire palace and the court-yard is surrounded by a strong rampart, very lofty, and communicating with the city walls. Beyond this lies the Orange Grove.

The Palace of San Telmo is the residence of the Duke of Montpensier. The principal entrance consists almost entirely of costly marble, but is rather overcharged with ornaments. Here is a good Picture Gallery. The Gardens are very extensive.

The Casa de Pilatos is said to be built of the exact dimensions and in imitation of Pontius Pilate's house at Jerusalem. The patio is magnificent, with the customary fountain in the centre. The black marble cross, it is reported, was made at Jerusalem, on the model of the true cross. This is the spot from whence the stations of the cross begin, ending at the Cruz del Campo.

The Plaza de Toros, built in 1760, is capable of accommodating 12,000 spectators. One side was injured by a hurricane, in 1805. and has not been since repaired. The bull-fights in Seville are considered by Spaniards the best in Spain, owing to the peculiar wildness and strength of the bulls.

The MUSEO, or Picture Gallery, is principally composed of works by the Spanish masters, especially those of Murillo. Amongst others, that of "St. Thomas of Villanueva giving alms to the poor." Murillo considered this picture as his chef d'œuvre. A small gratuity to the attendants is expected. A very good catalogue can be obtained for a trifling sum.

The oldest of the Promenades is that of the Alameda de Hercules. Here are four avenues of fine trees with six fountains. The most fashionable is the Las Deli

cias de Christina, occupying the space between the Golden Tower (Torre del Oro) and the palace of San Telmo.

The Torre del Oro, on the left bank of the Guadalquivir, is a very ancient tower, attributed in turn to the Romans and the Moors. The Golden Tower has played an important part in the history of Don Pedro of Castile. It is now used as offices.

Leaving Seville we proceed along the valley of the Guadalquivir, and cross the Guadaira. The country abounds with groves of orange trees and olive-yards.

Utrera (375 miles). Population 14,250. An ancient Moorish city, formerly fortified. It is situated in a charming valley. On one of the surrounding hills are the ruins of an old castle. The church of Santa Maria possesses numerous relics: amongst others, that which is said to be one of the thirty pieces of silver paid to Judas for the betrayal of our Saviour.

Lebrija (401 miles). Population 11,500. It is situated on a hill which overlooks the ruins of an old castle, surrounded by a magnificent country, and formed of well built houses.

Jerez de la Frontera (Xeres), (421 miles). Population 50,000. This is a fine city, celebrated for the wines to which it gives its name. The houses are built and furnished with remarkably good taste. All the country round Jerez has the appearance of a vast vineyard. Visitors are admitted to some of the principal vaults or caves (Bodegas), which are of immense extent. Jerez formerly possessed many convents; these are now for the most part converted into barracks or wine depots. This place was founded by the Phoenicians. Before its

walls, the Carthaginians and Romans fought a great battle, the issue of which was that the latter gained possession of the city and fortified it. It was in this neighbourhood, in 711, that the memorable battle took place between the Goths and the Moors, which decided the fall of the monarchy of the Goths, and rendered the Moors masters of Andalusia. In 1252 the armies of the Catholic kings engaged with the Moors on the same battle-field, and took Jerez from them. These events are the subject of many of the heroic legends of old Spain.

The rail proceeds in a straight line, through a very beautiful and picturesque country, towards the bay of Cadiz.

Puerto de Santa Maria (Port St. Mary), (430 miles). Population 21,500. At the mouth and on the right bank of the Guadalète. The bull-fights here are the most celebrated in Spain. There are some delightful promenades and gardens. This city is said to have been founded by one of the Greek chiefs on his return from the siege of Troy.

Puerto Real (435 miles). Population 5,500. The ancient port of Cadiz, Portus Gaditanus, founded by the Romans. The present city was founded about 1483, by Isabella, on the ruins of the Roman port.

The maritime arsenal of La Caracca is entirely surrounded by the sea.

San Fernando (442 miles), population 17,000. A fortified town. A number of ditches are dug in the marshes to collect the salt, the traffic in which is the principal business of the inhabitants. Besides the arsenal of Carraca, San Fernando possesses a shot foundry and barracks.

CADIZ (450 miles). (Hotels:

one can accommodate from 1,300 to 1,400 spectators. Cadiz has two cathedrals, but neither of them calls for any particular remark. The chapel of the convent of Santa Catalina possesses many of Murillo's works, among others, that (the marriage of St. Catharine) which he was finishing when he received a fall that is said to have ultimately caused his death.

Cadiz is a most agreeable residence for foreigners, on account of the courtesy of its inhabitants. The ladies are gracious and attractive; their beauty is proverbial.

ROUTE 145.

MADRID TO CORDOVA

AND MALAGA.

394 miles; first class, 327.20 reals; second class, 251.10 reals; third class, 153.40 reals.

(For description of Route to Cordova (2764 miles), see preceding Route.)

N leaving Cordova, we pass, on the right, the line to Seville. Crossing the Guadalquivir, we pass two unimportant places, and reach Montiila (306) miles), population 14,500. It is situated in one of the most beautiful parts of Andalusia. Montilla was the birthplace of Gonzalvo di Cordova, called the Great Captain. The place is celebrated for its extensive vineyards. We next reach Aguilar (310 miles), population, 12,200; also renowned for its wines. Here is an interesting old Moorish castle. At Bobadilla (3514 miles), the line to Granada branches off. Passing through a

very romantic and beautiful district, we presently arrive at MALAGA (394 miles), (Hotels: see "HOTEL APPENDIX.") Population, 113,000.

The climate is temperate and salubrious. The heat is tempered by sea breezes during the day, and by light winds during the night. No endemic disease prevails here, and the annual mortality scarcely exceeds one per cent. of the population. It highly recommended as a winter residence for invalids; especially those whose lungs are affected.

Malaga was built by the Phonicians several centuries before Christ. It was first called Malacha, a name derived from the Hebrew Malach (salt), from the large quantity of fish adapted for salting found in the vicinity.

The city is divided into two distinct parts: the old quarter, which retains its Moorish peculiarities, narrow and winding streets; and the new quarter, which is well built. Many of the streets in the latter part are straight and wide, with some elegant looking houses.

The Alameda is a superb public walk, and has a central promenade separated from the carriage-ways by rows of almond and other trees. Here are also several pieces of sculpture, and a handsome marble fountain. The other promenades are the Plaza de la Constitucion, the Plaza de Riego, the Plaza de la Puerta del Mar. In the centre of the Plaza de Riego, a monument has been erected to the memory of General Torrijos and his compatriots, who were massacred at Malaga, in December 1831, by the treacherous Moreno.

The English Cemetery is very neatly arranged, and is used as a promenade by the natives. Here

is buried the unfortunate Lieutenant Boyd, who was shot at the