passing under two bridges. The walls give it the appearance of an old fortress.

The principal archæological curiosities are as follows: The Puerta del Sol, a beautiful gate, of Moorish construction, the palaces, and, above all the rest, the ALCAZAR, the towers of which overlook the city. It was the residence of the kings, and, in spite of the degradations to which it bas been forced to submit, we can still judge of its former beauty.

THE CATHEDRAL was founded by St. Eugene, apostle of Toledo. The Moors turned it into a mosque; the King, Ferdinand the Catholic, in 1227, began the building of the present church. The general plan is that of five parallel naves, the height of which diminishes towards the sides. The cathedral has eight gates, of marvellous workmanship, of Gothic sculpture, with the exception of one, where the bad taste has been displayed of adding a Greek portal. There is a three-storied tower, rising to the height of 325 ft.

In the interior are 88 pillars, formed by clusters of small columns. The choir contains a fine specimen of carved wood-work. The chapels are numerous, and are richly decorated with paintings and monuments. The two principal are the Capilla Mayor and the Mozarabe; in the latter chapel there are some fine fres

coes.

The cathedral possesses treasures of immense value. The sacristy contains numerous vestments covered with precious stones, and gold and silver plate of enormous value. There are 750 windows in the Cathedral, and when the sun streams through the richly-painted glass it presents a scene of unequalled splen

dour. Some years since the doors of this vast treasure-house were unhesitatingly thrown open to tourists, but since the opening of the railway, the archbishop, alarmed, doubtless, at the increased number of unknown visitors, has caused the chapels containing all this treasure to be closed, and it is exceedingly difficult to get permission to view them. The cloisters have been sadly mutilated by the French. Here are some monuments, and the Library of the Chapter, which contains some curious old manuscripts and very valuable illuminated missals.

The most frequented promenade in Toledo is in the Plaza of the Zocodover.

This place has from very early times been celebrated for its cutlery, especially for the manufacture of sword-blades. This is still a fruitful source of industry, though the rivalry of Sheffield and other places has deprived it of that ancient prestige which once secured it almost a monopoly amongst the military powers of southern and western Europe. Small arms for the Spanish army are still made at the Fabrica de Armas, which is shown to visitors. It is said that the water and the sand of the Tagus are essential for the proper tempering of the swords. Mr. Borrow's testimony as to the comparative merits of the famous Toledan blades of olden date and those that are now fabricated, appears to contradict the opinion commonly entertained on the subject. He inquired of the workmen whether they could manufacture weapons of equal value to those of former days, and whether the secret had been lost. "Ca!" said they, "the swords of Toledo were never so good as those which we are daily

making. It is ridiculous enough to see strangers coming here to purchase old swords, the greater part of which are mere rubbish, and never made at Toledo; yet for such they will give a large price, whilst they would grudge two dollars for this jewel, which was made but yesterday," thereupon putting into my hand a middle-sized rapier. "Your worship," said they, "seems to have a strong arm, prove its temper against the stone wall-thrust boldly, and fear not." I have a strong arm, and dashed the point with my utmost force against the solid granite; my arm was numbed to the shoulder from the violence of the concussion, and continued so for nearly a week, but the sword appeared not to be at all blunted, or to have suffered in any respect.

ROUTE 141.

MADRID TO ALICANTE.

278 miles; 1st class, 227.50 reals; 2nd, 176.32 reals; 3rd, 108.7 reals.

(For description of route as far as Castillejo, see preceding Route.)

LCAZAR de San Juan (92 miles), population 7,650. Here is the branch-line to Andalusia, and to Ciudad Reale.

This is one of the ancient cities of Spain. It has successively been in the possession of the Romans, the Goths, and the Arabs. Later, it was besieged by the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem. At a distance of 15 miles from Alcazar is the village of Toboso, name familiar to all

readers of Don Quixote, in connection with the erratic knight's lady-love, Dulcinea del Toboso. Alcazar is by some supposed to be the birth-place of Cervantes, but this is disputed. Passing some places of no interest, we reach

ALBACETE (174) miles), (Hotels: Parador de Diligencias, de San Juan), population 15,250. Here are some small cutlery works, the principal articles of their manufacture being swordblades and daggers, for the most part highly ornamented. principal buildings are the parish church, the Hôtel de Ville, the Palace of Justice, the Theatre (formerly a monastery).

The

At CHINCHILLA (186 miles) the line to Cartagena branches off to the right.

Almansa (233 miles), population 9,000. This place is tolerably well built, with wide and straight streets, but not paved. An ancient castle overlooks the town. In the neighbourhood is erected an obelisk, in commemoration of a battle between the English and French, on April 25, 1707. The French being commanded by an Englishman, a natural son of James II., and the English by a Frenchman. The victory was gained by the French. The inscription on the monument is in Latin and Spanish. At La Encina (245 miles) the line to Valencia turns off to the left. At Villena we see an old castle on the summit of a hill, and an old Moorish Alcazar, in ruins, at Elda. Passing through a very fertile country, we reach

ALICANTE (278 miles), (Hotels: Fonda del Vapor, Fonda de Bosio), population 32,000. This, the port of Madrid, is frequented by the ships of all nations. There is direct communication by steam between Alicante and all the Me

diterranean ports. The city possesses some fine buildings, but the streets are badly paved.

The Picture Gallery of the Marquis del Angolfa contains some of the paintings of Murillo, Velasquez, Albert Dürer, &c.; also a collection of medals. Permission will be granted to visit the Castle, by sending card, with names, to the Governor. The Castle itself is an object of great interest, and a splendid view of the sea and surrounding country can be obtained therefrom. Among other objects of interest are the Ayuntamiento and the Episcopal Palace. There is an extensive tobacco manufactory, employing between 4,000 and 5,000 women and girls.

The Plaza del Toro can accommodate 11,000 spectators. Alicante is a thriving seaport town, its trade principally consisting in the export of wine, raisins, almonds, esparto (for paper-making), saffron, and minerals.

In 1823 it was the last city which surrendered to the French.

ROUTE 142.

MADRID TO CARTHA-
GENA.

328 miles; 1st class, 262.50; 2nd, 203.48; 3rd, 124.79.

(For the route as far as Chinchilla (186 miles), see preceding Route.)

HE first place of importance is HELLIN (236 miles), in the neighbourhood of which are considerable sulphur mines. On leaving Hellin we pass, on the

right, a mountain range intersected by deep valleys. The plain in front is covered with olive plantations. About Calasparra (240 miles), are extensive ricefields. The country is very fertile, and abounds with fruit-trees of all kinds.

ARCHERIA (261 miles) is celebrated for its mineral and tepid springs, which are very much frequented.

Alcantarilla (281 miles) is situated in the midst of a district rich in cornfields and vineyards. In the far distance, on the right, is the sanctuary of Fuen Santa. On the left are a convent of the Hieronymites, and the government gunpowder manufactory.

MURCIA (286 miles), (Hotels: Francesa, Patron), population 110,000. This city is surrounded by a tract of the most fertile country in Spain, watered by a system of irrigation introduced by the Moors. The Cathedral, formerly a mosque, and subsequently a church belonging to the KnightTemplars, was restored in the 18th century. The reliefs, sculptures, and statues which adorn the façade are all finely executed. The three entrances are surmounted by groups which are especially striking. The style of the building is semi-gothic, except the cupola, which is GræcoRoman. A sarcophagus in the principal chapel contains the remains of King Alphonso the Wise. The sacristy contains a bas-relief, in walnut-wood, representing the Descent from the Cross. The tower is 450 ft. high.

The Episcopal Palace has a handsome marble staircase, fine apartments, and a good library.

There is a good Botanical Garden, and the public promenades are extensive and well laid out.

Murcia is celebrated for its silk

manufactures. The country becomes by degrees bleak and barren. On the left, near Bazilcas (312 miles), is a large lake, abounding with fish, separated from the sea by a tongue of sand, and communicating with it by a narrow channel. La Palma and Pozo Estrecho (320 miles) are celebrated for their wines. The level country through which we next pass has a clay soil, and produces little except grapes.

CARTHAGENA (328 miles), (Hotels: Francesca, de las Cuatro Naciones), population 35,000. This town was called by the Romans Colonia Victrix Julia. Its port, on the Mediterranean, is, next to that of Vigo, the largest in Spain, and the roadstead is magnificent. The Arsenal, magazines, shipyards, &c., are on a large scale. There are important lead mines in the neighbourhood. It has no public buildings worthy of particular mention. The old Cathedral is little better than a ruin.

belonging to a military order of

that name.

JATIVA (280 miles), population, 14,200. This was one of the principal cities built by the Arabs in this beautiful country. Here are a large number of ancient Mauresque buildings; also a fine Castle, a town-hall, a handsome collegiate church, a market-hall for the sale of silk, a Plaza del Toro, some hospitals, a number of convents, and several delightful promenades.

The railway now leaves behind the mountainous tract, and enters upon a well-cultivated country. It is this part, with Andalusia, that the Moors called the "Paradise of the West." The climate is superb, and the whole country very fruitful-rice, wheat, barley, pepper, citrons, oranges, olives, and palm-trees growing in great luxuriance. Passing several places which call for no particular mention, we reach

VALENCIA (318 miles), (Hotels: de Paris, del Cid, Madrid, Francesca), population, 146,000. This is a large and beautiful city, the capital of the province of the same name, situated on the banks of the Guadalaviar. It is the see of an archbishop, the residence of a captain-general, and the seat of a University. The city is almost circular in form, and surrounded by walls, which were built in 1356, and are still in a tolerably perfect condition.

Valencia has regular and frequent steam communication with all the Mediterranean ports. The climate is delicious. The Cardinal de Retz called this region the most beautiful garden in the whole world. It has been, in turn, the favourite of the Roman, the Goth, and the Saracen-to the last of whom it owed its chief increase and magnificence. As a seat of

learning in the best days of Mahommedan Spain, Valencia ranked second only to Cordova. In the 11th century it was wrested from the Moors by Rodrigo Diaz de Bivar, surnamed the Cid. He maintained his conquest to the close of his life, when the Christians were obliged to abandon the place, taking with them the body of their deceased lord. It was borne on a litter, attended by the entire garrison marching in procession, before which the astonished Moors, not aware of the Cid's death, opening a passage,fled.

During the 13th century, Valencia again fell to the Christians. King James of Arragon, jcined by a body of French led by the Bishop of Narbonne, besieged the city; and at length the Moors, reduced by famine, were compelled to surrender it.

The CATHEDRAL (called La Seo) has been greatly injured by modern additions. It occupies the site of a Roman temple of Diana. It became a church under the Goths, and a mosque under the Arabs. The octagonal steeple,called El Miguelete, is 130 ft. high. The interior has three vaulted naves, supported by pillars with Corinthian capitals. One side of the choir is encrusted, with alabaster, and adorned with splendid paintings of subjects taken from Scripture history. The Cathedral possesses an immense quantity of relics and beautiful ornaments; also some curious old documents and liturgies, including an English missal said to be from Westminster Abbey.

Amongst the churches worth visiting are those of San Martin, with a noteworthy statue over the door, of the saint on horseback, parting his cloak in order to give alms to the poor, and in which are some fine paintings; San Nicolas, formerly a Moorish mosque;

Santa Catalina, an ancient mosque, with its light and elegant tower; Santos Juanes, containing fine frescoes and marbles; San Salvador; San Andres, containing some good paintings; and San Juan del Hospital, where is the tomb of the Empress Constance-Augusta, of Constantinople, who took refuge in Spain, and died there. Valencia possesses many convents, the most important of which is that of the Temple, an ancient Moorish palace, transformed into a convent by the Templars. Amongst the many public establishments the most important is the Colegio de Corpus, founded in 1586, and finished in 1605, by Archbishop Juan Ribera. The chapel of the college should be visited during the service on Friday morning, at 10. The interior is purposely darkened, and the service is very interesting. The picture above the high altar is removed by invisible machinery, and the vacancy is supplied in turn by several sombre veils, of different colours, till at length appears the representation of the Crucifixion -a superb specimen of carving in dark wood. During all this time the Miserere is chanted by the choir.

Valencia possesses several hospitals, and a University with a library of 40,000 volumes. The Museum, formerly a convent, possesses many pictures, the best being those by the Spanish masters; one being a modern painting of Don Quixote and his trusty servant Sancho, by a young Catalan artist, named Serran. This picture gained the prize at the Exhibition in Madrid, in 1867, and was bought by Ex-Queen Isabella, and presented by her to this Museum. The Casa Consistorial contains some good paintings.

The promenades are very fine.