Gambar halaman
PDF
ePub

with towers, erected in 1614. It contains a Picture Gallery and Library. In the park, is the Roman villa, or Pompeianum, in imitation of the house of Castor and Pollux at Pompeii. The Cathedral was originally founded in 980, but the existing building was constructed partly in the thirteenth century, though traces of the former structure remain. It contains two bas-reliefs in bronze, representing the Virgin, and Albert II. of Brandenburg, executed by Vischer in 1526, and another of Otto, Duke of Bavaria, dating from 1575.

Leaving Aschaffenburg, we pass through the Forest of Spessart, a remnant of the ancient Hercynian Forest, and presently cross the Laufach, and go through a tunnel of about two miles long to Heigenbrücken. Beyond Partenstein, we enter the valley of the Lohr, and reach the station of that name on the right bank of the Main. Gemünden (57 miles), is situated at the confluence of the Main and the Saale. Above it, see-the ruined Castle of Schorneberg, destroyed in

1243.

The Convent of Zell, at Veitshochheim (77 miles) is now used by a firm of manufacturers. We presently reach WURZBURG (80} miles). (Hotels: Kronprinz von Baiern, Russischer Hof), population 42,185. This ancient town is pleasantly situated on the Main. It is connected with the suburb of Mainviertel by an ancient stone bridge, adorned with statues of saints, &c. There are some very quaint, picturesque old houses to be seen in various parts of the town. At the end of the Domstrasse is the Cathedral, originally founded in the 8th century. The earlier portions of the present building are of the 11th and 12th centuries. In the interior are

monuments of the Prince-bishops and others. The Neue Munster, near the Cathedral, is built on the spot where the Irish Saint Kilian suffered martyrdom. In a niche on the outside of this church is a monument to Vogelweide, the Minnesinger, who died in 1230, leaving a sum of money to be laid out in food for the birds, to be given to them at his tomb every day. The monument bears an inscription to that effect. The chapter subsequently appropriated the bequest to themselves.

[ocr errors]

Vogelweide the Minnesinger,
When he left this world of ours,
Laid his body in the cloister,
Under Wurzburg's minster towers.

And he gave the monks his treasures,
Gave them all with this behest:
They should feed the birds at noontide
Daily at his place of rest;

Saying, From these wandering minstrels

I have learned the art of song;
Let me now repay the lessons
They have taught so well and long.'
Thus the bard of love departed;
And, fulfilling his desire,

On his tomb the birds were feasted
By the children of the choir.

Till at length the portly abbot Murmured Why this waste of food? Be it changed to loaves henceforward, For our fasting brotherhood." " LONGFELLOW.

Near the Cathedral is the Royal Palace, formerly the residence of the Prince-Bishops. It contains 285 apartments, some of which are magnificent. The Chapel is richly decorated in the style of the age of Louis XIV. On the north side of the town is the Julius-spital, an asylum for aged and infirm persons. In the market-place is the Marienkapelle, a fine Gothic structure of the 14th and 15th centuries. The Univer

The

sity, founded in 1582, is celebrated as a school of medicine. Citadel stands on a hill covered with vineyards. It commands a magnificent view, but permission must be obtained to visit it. The famous Stein wine is grown at Würzburg. [Another but longer route between Würzburg and Nuremburg is that by way of BAMBERG. About 20 miles from Würzburg, on this route, is SCHWEINFURT, the junction for KISSINGEN BATHS, the distance to which is 14 miles. (Hotels; see "HOTEL APPENDIX.") Of its three springs, the Rakoczy and Pandur furnish saline, and the Maxbrunnen acidulous and alkaline waters.

The Soolen-Sprudal is remarkable for the ebb and flow of its waters. The waters of Kissingen are efficacious in cases of chronic disease, gout, &c. Visitors, about 7,000 annually.]

BAMBERG (Hotel: Deutsches Haus), population 25,500, beautifully situated on the Regnitz. Its most noteworthy object is the Cathedral, a fine Byzantine edifice founded in 1004. The old Palace of the Prince Bishops of Bamberg is a fine edifice. Distance to Würzburg 64 miles, to Nuremberg 46 miles.] We now pass several places of no interest, and reach FURTH (140 miles), a busy manufacturing town of about 21,000 inhabitants. It was the scene of a great battle between Wallenstein and Gustavus Adolphus, in 1632. The next station is

NUREMBURG (145 miles). (Hotels: see "HOTEL APPENDIX "), population about 77,895. This was formerly one of the most important towns in Europe. It is still distinguished in many branches of industry, especially in the manufacture of lead pencils, wooden toys, mirrors, bronzes,

&c.

It is a curious old town, containing numbers of mediaval houses, together with several magnificent ones of later date. The River Pegnitz runs through the town, dividing it in two equal parts, which are named after the large church in each, St. Sebald's side, on the north, and St. Lawrence's side on the south. The Church of St. Lawrence is a fine Gothic building of the 13th century; the towers are surmounted by handsome spires. The portal at the west end is richly decorated, and contains statues of the Virgin and several saints, and representations of various Scriptural incidents. The stained glass windows are magnificent. Many of the sculptures are by Albert Dürer.

A prominent object in this Church is the pix of white stone, 64 ft. high, beautifully carved by Adam Krafft. It rises nearly to the roof of the church, and the top, which bends over, has been compared by Longfellow to the crest of a fountain.

In the market-place is the Catholic Church, or Frauenkirche. Its portal, like that of St. Lawrence, is adorned with figures of the Virgin, Saints, Prophets, &c. The interior contains some good paintings and sculptures.

a

The Schöne Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), also in the marketplace, consists of a fine Gothic obelisk, 56 ft. high, adorned with many statues. The Goose Market, near the Frauenkirche, contains a bronze fountain, called the Günsemännchen, which represents peasant carrying two geese, out of whose bills flow streams of water. In a street leading out of the principal market-place, is the house once inhabited by Hans Sachs, the shoemaker-poet of the 16th century. Another Nurem

[blocks in formation]

The

St. Sebald's Church was originally built in the 10th century. The greater part of the existing structure is of the 14th century. portals are finely carved. The interior contains some handsome stained windows, and good sculptures, and a painting by Albert Dürer. The Shrine of St. Sebald, in the choir, is a chef d'œuvre of Peter Vischer. It is a beautiful Gothic canopy of bronze, in open work, adorned with statues of the Twelve Apostles, above which are twelve of the Fathers of the Church, and cupids, sea-monsters, &c., amid foliage and flowers.

Melchior Pfinzing lived in the Parsonage-house of St. Sebald, on the north-west corner of the square in which the church is situated. It has a handsome oriel window.

The Gothic Church of St. Maurice, near St. Sebald's, is used as a picture-gallery; it contains some good paintings. In the neighbourhood is a bronze statue of Albert Dürer, by Rauch.

The Castle, or Burg, is at the north side of the town. It is a fine, massive building, of the

eleventh century. It stands on a rock, and commands an extensive view. Part of it is fitted up for the Royal family, and contains some good paintings. In the castle-yard is a venerable limetree, said to be 700 years old.

In a tower of the city wall called Froschthurm is the celebrated iron virgin (Eiserne Jungfrau). It is the figure of a female seven feet high, which opens by secret springs. The victim being thrust into its embrace was pierced by poignards. Beneath are dark vaults into which the dead bodies were allowed to fall when released from the embrace of this fearful instrument.

The Churchyard of St. John, outside the Thiergarten-gate, contains the graves of Albert Dürer (No. 649), Hans Sachs (No. 503), and an immense number of the former aristocracy of Nuremburg, whose coats of arms are emblazoned on their tombs.

The Aegidienkirche, in the Italian style, contains an altar-piece by Van Dyck, representing a Dead Christ, with St. John and the two martyrs. In one of the sidechapels there is a sculptured relief of the Coronation of the Virgin, by Adam Krafft. To the south of the church is the Gymnasium, founded by Melancthon, whose statue is in front of it.

[blocks in formation]

Longfellow thus writes of Nuremburg :

"In the valley of the Pegnitz, where

across broad meadow-lands Rise the blue Franconian mountains,

Nuremberg, the ancient, stands. Quaint old town of toil and traffic,

quaint old town of art and song, Memories haunt thypointed gables, like

the rooks that round them throng: Memories of the Middle Ages, when the

emperors, rough and bold, Had their dwelling in thy castle, timedefying, centuries old; And thy brave and thrifty burghers

boasted, in their uncouth rhyme, That their great imperial city stretched its hand through every clime. In the courtyard of the castle, bound with many an iron band, Stands the mighty linden planted by Queen Cunigunde's hand; On the square the oriel window, where in old heroic days

Sat the poet Melchior singing Kaiser Maximilian's praise.

Every where I see around me rise the

wondrous world of Art: Fountains wrought with richest sculp

ture standing in the common mart; And above cathedral doorways saints and bishops carved in stone. By a former age commissioned as apostles to our own.

In the church of sainted Sebald sleeps enshrined his holy dust, And in bronze the Twelve Apostles

guard from age to age their trust; In the church of sainted Lawrence stands a pix of sculpture rare, Like the foamy sheaf of fountains, rising through the painted air. Here, when Art was still religion, with a simple, reverent heart, Lived and laboured Albrecht Durer, the Evangelist of Art;

Here in silence and in sorrow, toiling still with busy hand.

Like an emigrant he wander'd seeking for the Better Land. Emigravit is the inscription on the tombstone where he lies:

Dead he is not, but departed,-for the artist never dies.

Fairer seems the ancient city, and the sunshine seems more fair, That he once has trod its pavement, that he once has breathed its air! Through these streets so broad and stately, these obscure and dismal lanes,

Walked of yore the Mastersingers,

chanting rude poetic strains. From remote and sunless suburbs, came they to the friendly guild, Building nests in Fame's great temple,

as in spouts the swallows build. As the weaver plied the shuttle, wove he too the mystic rhyme,

And the smith his iron measures hammered to the anvil's chime; Thanking God, whose boundless wisdom makes the flowers of poesy bloom In the forge's dust and cinders, in the tissues of the loom.

Here Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poet, laureate of the gentle craft, Wisest of the Twelve Wise Masters, in huge folios sang and laugh'd. But his house is now an ale house, with a nicely sanded floor,

And a garland in the window, and his face above the door.

Painted by some humble artist, as in Adam Puschman's song,

As the old man grey and dove-like, with his great beard white and long. And at night the swart mechanic comes to drown his cark and care, Quaffing ale from pewter tankards, in the master's antique chair. Vanish'd is the ancient splendour, and before my dreamy eye

Wave these mingling shapes and figures, like a faded tapestry. Not thy Councils, not thy Kaisers, win for thee the world's regard, But thy painter, Albrecht Durer, and Hans Sachs, thy cobbler-bard. Thus, O Nuremberg, a wanderer from a region far away,

As he paced thy streets and court-yards, sang in thought his careless lay: Gathering from the pavement's crevice, as a floweret of the soil, The nobility of labour,-the long pedigree of toil."

(RATISBON is 85 miles from Nuremburg. There are three trains daily, in four hours. Fares, 1st class, 6 fl. 57 kr.; 2nd, 4fl. 39 kr.; 3rd, 3ft. 6 kr. There is nothing of interest on the route. Ratisbon is described in Route 115.)

ROUTE 112.

FRANKFORT-ON-THEMAIN TO HOMBURG.

14 miles; 1st class, 1.80; 2nd, 1.00.

OMBURG (Hotels: see "HOTEL APPENDIX "),

population, 9,000. Finely situated on a plateau at the foot of the Taunus range, this is one of the most beautiful of the German watering places. The beauty and healthfulness of its situation, the virtues of its five noted springs, and the exceptional comfort of its hotels and lodging houses, have contributed to render Homburg a favourite resort for American and English visitors. Since the gambling rooms were closed by law at the end of 1872, the Kursaal, the finest in Europe, has passed to the authorities of the town, and is kept open all the year for concerts, promenades, &c. It contains concert and reading rooms, the latter supplied with a great number of journals, a beautiful theatre, and a restaurant. The orangery and ornamental grounds are also the property of the town, and are thrown open, as well as the Kursaal, to the public.

The neighbourhood abounds in pleasant excursions, among which are those to the Roman remains, a wall and fosse, called Saalburg, supposed to date from 9 B. C., to Nauheim, remarkable for its salt and iron springs, and many others. A beautiful English church was completed several years since, and regular services continue throughout the year. The old Schloss, the former residence of the Landgraves, now one of the imperial residences of the German Emperor, is a picturesque and interesting object. The lodging houses of Homburg have always been cele

[blocks in formation]

FRANKFORT TO MUNICH,

BY STUTTGARD.

280 miles; 1st class (express), 39.65; 2nd, 27.65.

(For that part of the journey as far as BRUCHSAL (73 miles), see Route 114.)

EAVING Bruchsal we presently reach BRETTEN (83 miles). It is a village of 2,800 inhabitants, and is only distinguished as the birthplace of Melancthon. MAULBRONN (90 miles) has a handsome church, in the Romanesque style. We pass through a tunnel leading from the valley of the Rhine into that of the Neckar, and reach MÜHLACKER (94 miles). We cross the valley of the Enz over a viaduct 1000 ft. long. After passing Bletigheim, we pass, on the right, the Castle of Hohenasperg, now a prison. LUDWIGSBURG (113 miles), (Hotel: Bar), population about 12,000, including the garrison, is the great military depot of Wurtemberg, and contains arsenal, gun-foundry, barracks, &c., situated a short distance from the western bank of the Neckar: the kings of Würtemberg formerly made it their residence. The Palace contains a picture-gallery. The Gardens are extensive, but not well kept up. In the neighbourhood are two royal residences: Monrepos and La Favorite.

STUTTGARDT (122 miles). (Hotels: see "HOTEL APPENDIX.") Population (1877) 108,250. This

« SebelumnyaLanjutkan »