PART THE FIRST.

THE

HISTORY OF PONTEFRACT.

SECTION I.

THE town of Pontefract, so famed in the records of English history, stands on a noble rocky eminence, approached to on every side by a considerable ascent; and affords a prospect to the traveller, at once pleasing and picturesque. From the summit of its site may be distinctly seen, the stately turrets of York cathedral; the towns of Malton, Selby, and Howden; Brayton-bargh,* and Hambleton-haugh ;† the Wolds; and the towering hills of Derbyshire, stretching along the horizon in grand succession. The intermediate parts of the landscape, are a combination of all that is rich and beautiful. Sparkling hamlets and straggling cottages, which bespeak cleanliness and comfort, abound on every side; whilst seats of opulent nobles, adorned with open lawns, rise amid embrowned groves, and add fresh beauties to the scenery. The disfigured fortress, rising majestically on its rugged seat, arrests the traveller's attention; whilst the imagination luxuriates into a thousand elevated contemplations, and the mind recognizes the progressive stride of time. The landscape is intersected by small streams, which hold their courses to the river Aire, (distant from Pontefract about two miles,) whose sinuous bosom, marked by numerous white sails, grants a pleasing addition to the whole. The eye wanders over the beautifully diversified views with unabated pleasure, and rests in calm repose upon its superlative beauty. Let a survey

or,' says the ingenious Mr. Thos. Fuller, 'set his centre at Pontefract, or thereabouts, and take the circumference of 20 miles, he there will meet with a tract of ground not exceeded by any, nor equalled for the goodness and plenty of some commodities; nay, he would term it the garden of England, but that it is so far from the mansion-house, the city

Bargh, is sometimes used in England for a hill; and is derived from the German word bargh, a hill.

Haugh, hay, haya or haye, signifies a fence or enclosure formed of rails, wherewith some forests, parks, &c. were anciently surrounded.

B

of London. And those, says he, who care not to go thither because of its great distance, would not desire, (were they but settled there,) to come from thence, such is the delight and pleasure therein.'*

In the description of Pontefract, the incomparable antiquarian, Leland, thus writes;- Pontfract is a fayre large market towne, and good occupying in hit. Ther is averie faire castel set on a rokke of stone; an abbay of blake monks, a paroche chirche, a colledge of prestes, a place of grey freres, a faire chapell. Without the towne on the hil, where the good duke † of Lancaster was behidded, ys a faire chirche. From Pontfract to St .Oswauls, § averie faire and wel builded howse of chanons, iii mile be much woddy grownde. At St. Oswauls is a mervelus faire conduct of water, and castelid hard againe the front of the howse. The soile therabout riche of woode, pasture and corne.

Camden also thus notices it in his Britannia :- Agro sedet peramæno, glycyrrhizæ et siseris feraci, ædificiis excultum nitidis, castrumque ostendit non minus speciosum quam tutum.'

Its streets, which run in the form of the letter Y, are broad and clean, its structures elegant, uniform and neat, and having no manufactory within its limits, the air is remarkably pure and salubrious. It is possessed of many good shops; a cheerful neatness seems generally to prevail; and for the politeness and affability of its inhabitants, it may vie with many in the north. The soil around it is deep and fruitful, and is famed for the production of the finest liquorice, not inferior to the Spanish, and Skirets, ¶ in the greatest abundance. About a mile from the town, northwards, is an extreme cold bathing well, called St. Ives. The gardens which surround the town on every side are beautiful; and, how should they be otherwise when Priapus and Flora reign here in conjunction.'

Collier's Historical Dict. ii. vide Yorkshire.

† Mr. Burton in his transcript hath written earl in the margin. Mr. Stowe did the same, but altered it to duke. Leland It. 91.

Although St Botolph was the name formerly given to the Chapel at Knottingley; yet, the distance from Pontefract, the woody place near the town called the warren, which was half a mile long and four quarantens broad, Dom. Boc. pp. 134, the new-hall divided into many partitions or dwellings, and supposed to be store-houses for the garrison of Pontefract, and the town-well, indicate this to be the village of Knottingley. Mag. Brit.

Liquorice, (glycyrrhiza vulgaris,) although not a native of this country, is here planted in large gardens, and flourishes greatly. It is only fit for use at its third. year's growth, and from its roots are manufactured the celebrated Pontefract Cakes. Of this plant, thus writes Barnaby Harrington in his itinerary:

Latius in rupem laser est sita dulcis arentem,

Veste nova veris floribus aucta novis.

Here liquorice grows upon the mellow banks

Decking the spring with her delicious plants.

Veni Pomfret, uberem venam,

Vergis lasepertiis plenam.

Thence to Pomfret, freshly flowered,.

And with rods of liquorice stored.

Camden's Brit, vi, 238.

If situation hath a power to please,

If air salubrious can give us ease,

If spacious streets and handsome houses join'd,
Can satisfaction raise within the mind;

If noble ruins mouldering fast with rust,
Where ancient monarchs mingle with the dust;
If gardens all around can please the eyes,
Embellished o'er with Flora's painted dyes;
If peace and plenty, which doth here abide,
(Laying all pique and prejudice aside;)

If charms as these are worthy of my song,
Come here, ye grave, ye gay, ye old, and young,
Come here, and view the subject of my theme,
Confess that Pomfret 's worthy your esteem.'

LUND.

The market, which is held on the Saturday, is plentifully supplied with every commodity.

In the fourth year of the reign of James I. an order was passed, dated the sixth of October, for the better regulation of the sale of goods in shops, as appears by the following:

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Villa de A sessions of peace at the visitation of frank-pledge, and in Pontif. S the court leet of our lord James by the grace of God, of Scotland, France, and Ireland, king, defender of the faith, &c. at the aforesaid town, on the sixth day of October, in the fourth year of the reign of our said king James of England, France, and Ireland, and the fortieth year of his reign over Scotland, at the same time; was tried at our court and among other things enacted as followeth :

FOR the necessary maintaining and upholding of the estate of this corporation, and the better to enable the poor townsmen and other inhabitants thereof, that they be not oppressed by foreigners, who not being burgesses or freemen of this town, do by taking of shops and other rooms here, without license of Mr. Mayor and his brethren, engross almost the whole trade of the town into their hands, although they neither inhabit in the town, nor pay any scott or lott there. WHEREFORE it is ordered and enacted, by the mayor, comburgesses, and burgesses of the town, by the assent of Mr. Recorder, that no foreigner not being a freeman, inhabiting and keeping house and family here, shall at any time hereafter, buy or sell directly or indirectly in any shop in this town, without the license of the mayor and burgesses under their corporation seal; unless it be upon the fair or market day, and that not to be granted, but such as be freemen of the town, and this upon pain of every day's offence, 10s. AND ALSO, that such foreigners as have or shall take any shops or other rooms here for the selling of corn, shall contribute towards the relief of the poor, and other duties of the town, according to such reasonable rates, and