AN UNKNOWN ISLAND.

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rienced, who, like us, have traversed thousands of leagues of watery waste, with their whole desires towards the haven whither they were bound, and yet only knowing by lapse of time that the space between them and their destination was diminishing in proportion. The sea-birds below, and the stars above, changing according to the latitudes which we crossed, had hitherto been the chief tokens and evidences to our sight of progress on our voyage over the monotonous abyss; one horizon of water being as undistinguishable from another as two hemispheres of sky. We gazed, therefore, with unsatisfied delight on this first nameless spot of earth on the face of the Pacific, which we had discovered, and on which (so little explored as yet are these regions) probably no eye of European had ever rested before, and perhaps no human eye which could see, in its existence and productions, the being and beneficence of the Creator and Upholder of all things. This island was about five miles in length, well wooded, and indicating the climate under which it flourished by the cocoa-nut and palm-trees with which it was adorned. The land was flat, and surrounded by a coral reef, on the south-east and north-west, on which the waves broke tremendously, forbidding all approach. We could perceive many of the natives running along the white shore. They were nearly naked, and seemed to look very earnestly but hesitatingly towards us, whether they should put out in their canoes, of which there were several on the margin of the beach. One carried a long staff, probably a spear, which he often brandished in his hand. We find no distinct account of this island by former voyagers. It may, indeed, be St. Narcisso; but, if so, it is laid down very incorrectly in the charts, its true place being 17° 24′ S. lat., and 139° 33′ W. long. This day four months we left Portsmouth; we have hitherto been safely, pleasantly, and expeditiously brought on our voyage by a merciful Providence.

Sept. 20. Early this morning land was again announced from the mast-head, as being under our larboard-bow. It proved to be Resolution Island, discovered by Captain Cook, and named after his ship. It is small, and not ascertained to be inhabited. Doubtful Island, first seen by M. de Bougainville, next presented itself; it is of considerable extent; we observed smoke rising in various places from among the trees as we passed, at the distance of seven miles, in the evening. Our hearts yearned over the benighted people of

42

TUSCAN ISLAND-CHAIN ISLAND.

these sequestered tracts, unvisited by the dayspring from on high, while in low accents-lost amidst the murmur of the waves, except to that ear with which the spirit listens to the still soft wailings of humanity, wherever they are utteredwe seemed to hear the forlorn inhabitants saying, “No man careth for our souls!". In the name of the Society that sent us, in the name of the Lord, whom we serve, our hearts responded, "God be merciful unto you, and bless you, that his name may be known throughout your islands, and his saving health experienced by all the dwellers upon earth.”

Sept. 21. Having lain to for the night (being now in the maze of the Dangerous Archipelago), at day-light land was again discovered; and as no name was found for it, nor its existence traced in the charts, we called it Tuscan Island, from our vessel. It lies S. lat. 17° 22. W. long. 143° 20'. In the afternoon, the captain sailed towards the shore in one of the boats, and hailed the natives, who were assembled to gaze at the strange spectacle of a European ship on their lone waters. Several of them came off in their little canoes, two of whom ventured, though timidly, into his boat. He gave them some trifling matters, and they presented him with two large pearl oysters in return. This is the twentysixth anniversary of the first general meeting of the London Missionary Society, and we joyfully commemorated it, in gratitude for the great things which the Lord hath already done for us, and in hope of the yet greater which He is even now performing. Of the latter, we expect soon to be eyewitnesses, and to obtain an impression of their glory and reality beyond any thing that we could receive by the hearing of the ear.

Sept. 22. To another undescribed island, which we passed to-day, we gave the name of Birnie, in honor of the worthy owner of that ship, in which, by his generosity, we were enjoying a free passage to the scene of our appoint

ment.

Sept. 23. We passed the curious series of islets, linked together, on which Captain Cooke conferred the appropriate appellation of Chain Island. The young Tahitian, Robert, who came out with us, viewing this group with remarkable emotion, was asked the reason; when he informed us that his father and mother resided there; also that he himself was born there, though he had lived a long time in Tahiti.

Sept. 24. Maiatia, or Osnaburgh Island, hove in sight,

ARRIVAL AT TAHITI.

43

at a distance of five or six leagues. As we approached within ten miles, the land rose in the form of a sugar-loaf, of vast dimensions, and seemed a mere naked rock, standing in the sea, and towering to the clouds. It is of a character very dissimilar to the low, verdant patches of earth which we have passed, and which seem to be altogether coral reefs, whereupon soil has been gradually formed, and plants and trees introduced by means easily conjectured; while animals and men, from time to time, being brought thither, have settled and become naturalized on finding the means of subsistence. Maiatia, on the contrary, is of more ancient structure, and most majestic elevation. The crags and declivities are clothed, two-thirds of the way towards the truncated top, with rank vegetation, surmounted by cocoa-nut trees, single or in clumps. There is, however, no anchoring place on the coast, which is said to be four miles in compass; not even a boat can land without imminent hazard.

About one o'clock P. M., our captain discerned the loom of Tahiti, over the larboard-bow. This was a dark black shade indicating its site; and, as we were advancing at the rate of nine knots an hour, we hoped to anchor in Matavai Bay by sunset. But the wind, which had blown hard all day, increased so much in violence towards evening, that we were reluctantly compelled to stand off from the land, and lay to for the night; the atmosphere, moreover, being very hazy, and frequent heavy showers descending. Since we left England, we had encountered only one severe gale, and in these seas, surrounded as we were by multitudes of miniature islands, our situation was certainly so perilous that we might have perished on the reefs of the very haven to which we had been so long steering; but the good hand of our God was upon us, and we escaped.

Sept. 25. Tahiti, "the desire of our eyes," came upon us at sunrise, in all its grandeur and loveliness;—more grand in the height of its mountains, and more lovely in the luxuriance of its valleys, than our imaginations had ever pictured it from the descriptions of former visitors and missionaries. We had before us, in exquisitely undulated outline, the two peninsulas of which Tahiti consists; the whole rendered more striking by the shadowy obscurity which clouds of different hues and density cast over it. In a few hours, as we drew nearer, the beautiful region unveiled itself in all its enchanting variety of hills and plains, woods and waters.

44

ARRIVAL AT TAHITI.

hills green up to their peaks, twice the height of Snowden ; plains spaciously opening from between the high-lands towards the shore, where the dwellings of the population were thickly sprinkled, under the shade of scattered trees; woods of gigantic growth and tropical ramification, so different from British forest scenery; and water bursting in brilliant cascades from the rocky eminences, then winding in rivulets through the valleys to the sea.

About eleven o'clock in the forenoon the first canoe came off towards us, for which the captain hove to. This small piece of excavated bread-fruit tree, balanced by an outrigger (that is, a piece of purau wood, lashed to the ends of two smaller pieces, which project from the sides of the vessel), amused us by the simplicity of its construction, and the dexterity with which it was managed by the two natives who occupied it; though, the sea being rather rough, we were inexperienced enough in their tactics to feel considerable apprehension for their safety. They proved to be a chief of a neighboring district and one of his followers, bringing bread-fruit, cocoanuts, plantains, and lemons, which they hoped would be acceptable to the strangers. Our visitors were neatly apparelled in native cloth, and their modest and courteous demeanor exceedingly engaged our attention. Great numbers of their countrymen followed, in canoes of various sizes, from which they poured upon our deck; others, with their little vessels, lined the passage by which we were to enter the port of Matavai, while multitudes of both sexes and all ages ranged themselves in groups on Point Venus (the place whence the transit of the planet of that name across the sun was observed on Captain Cook's first voyage), and along the adjacent reef that runs out into the sea-to witness and welcome our arrival. At length, by the Providence which had thus far helped us, we came to anchor in the bay, after narrowly escaping shipwreck, even at the last moment, by keeping too closely to the Dolphin Rock. Among the chiefs who had come on board and crowded our cabin, one, according to the custom of the country, chose Mr. Tyerman, and another Mr. Bennet, for his tayo, or friend, and desired a return of similar acknowledgment on their part. As a characteristic signal of our arrival, we had hoisted the Missionary flag, which had been prepared on our voyage, having the insignia, on a white ground, of a dove flying, with an olive branch in its bill, enclosed in a circle made by a

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serpent with the tail in its mouth, and this fenced with a triangle, on the sides of which was the motto, "Glory to God in the highest, on earth peace, good will to men." By this our brethren on the island had recognized the expected Deputation, and informed the natives of our character and object. Mr. Nott and Mr. Wilson, the missionaries at this station, came on board, and most cordially received us as hoped-for partakers and helpers of their joy. After dinner we landed, and arrangements were made by these kind friends for our accommodation in their dwellings during our stay in this neighborhood.

CHAPTER III

Pomare's Residence-Account of a League of Pacification among the Natives-Strangers in Tahiti-Repararu's House-Cocoa-nut Water -Exotic Trees-Dress of Natives-St. Luke's Gospel transcribed by Pomare-Visit to Papeiti-Preparations for the Sabbath-Singular Consequence of a Mistake in Captain Wilson's Sea-reckoning-First Sabbath at Matavai--Prevalence of Infanticide in former TimesCanoe-making-Fishing-Incident by which the Gospel was carried to Raiatea-Horrors of Idolatry-Pomare-Spirituous Liquors-Progress of Christianity at Raivavai-Tahitian Supper-Tabued Trees.

Sept. 26 AFTER bringing some of our packages on shore, Captain Stavers, having learned that there was better anchorage in Wilks's harbor, seven miles to the south, proceeded thither.

King Pomare, we found, was residing on the adjacent island of Eimeo, when we arrived. One of his houses standing near Mr. Nott's, the latter accompanied us to see it. This structure, about a hundred feet in length by forty in breadth, is nothing more than a thatched roof, supported by wooden pillars tapering from the base to the top, leaning a little inward, and not more than eight feet high. There were umities (a kind of wooden dishes), baskets, bundles of cloth, and various articles of domestic furniture, hanging up under the roof. On the floor, which was covered with grass, several bedsteads were standing. Near this large shed (for such it appeared to us) there was a smaller dwelling, the walls of which were framed of slight bamboos fixed perpendicularly in the ground; and there was a door at each end. When the king is here, it is in this small place of retirement