the following inscription in Gothic characters: FORTE EST VINUM: FORTIOR EST REX: FORTIORES SUNT MULIERES: SUPER OMNIA

VINCET VERITAS.

ROSLIN CASTLE looks down from an isolated height over the river Esk. Its origin is involved in mystery, but it is assigned to the eleventh century. There remain two tiers of arched rooms or vaults. It is chiefly remarkable for its picturesque situation.

ROUTE 21.

GLASGOW TO OBAN AND INVERNESS.

(Trains connecting with the

Steamer leave the Central Station at Glasgow for Greenock at S A.M,, and the St Enoch Station at about the same hour.)

Time to Oban 9 hours and 3 quarters, fares, first class, 14s., steerage, 78. 6d. Time to Banavie, 12 hours 50 minutes, fure, first class, 21s. Time from Oban to Inverness, 10 hours. Fares, Glasgow to Inverness, first cluss, 33s. bd., steerage, 158.

HE steamer which leaves Glasgow at 7A.M. every morning, except Sunday, reaches Ardrishaig at 12.15. The connecting steamer on the Crinan Canal reaches Crinan at 2.55 P.M. The steamer which leaves Crinan for Oban sails at 3 P.M. and reaches Oban at 4.45 P.M., and Banavie at 7.50 P.M. The steamer leaves Oban daily at 7 A. M., and reaches Inverness about 5.30 P.M.

One of the beautiful and swift teamers, Columba or Iona, be

longing to Mr David MacBrayne's fleet of Highland steamers, sails every morning except Sunday, during the summer. It will well repay those who have not seen the Clyde to take the steamer at Glasgow, instead of going by railway, an hour later, and overtaking the steamer at Greenock. For a description of the Clyde from Glasgow to Greenock, see Route 13. Our steamer makes two landings at Greenock, first at the Custom-House Quay, and then at the Prince's Pier, where the passengers are taken on board who have come from Glasgow by train. Opposite Greenock is Helensburgh, a favourite watering-place. Leaving Prince's Pier, we pass Fort Matilda, and above it the extensive Sailor's Home. The scenery now increases in variety and beauty; in front of us are the hills of Argyleshire, and on our right is Lochlong, upon which are the summer resorts of Kilcreggan and Cove on one side, and Strone and Blairmore on the other. As we proceed towards Holy Loch, we obtain a view out at sea, on our left of Bute and the Islands of Cumbrae. In front of us numerous villas and cottages. Six miles from Greenock brings us to Kirn Pier, the landing-place for the watering-places on Holy Loch. In four minutes more we reach DUNOON, one of the oldest watering-places on the west coast. Not far beyond the pier is a mound surmounted by the ruins of the Castle of Dunoon. In the background is Benmore (2500 ft). Passing the West Bay of Dunoon, we see on the opposite shore, a little above Wemyss Bay, Custle Wemyss, the residence of John Burns, of the famous Cunard Line of steamers.

are

Going towards Innellan, the next stopping-place, we pass many handsome villas. Leaving

the last named place, we soon reach the lighthouse on Toward Point. Our direction is now towards the shores of Bute; on our left, in a southerly direction is Mount Stewart House, the seat of the Marquis of Bute. Passing Craigmore Pier, we come to the bay of Rothesay, conspicuous objects in which are the Aquarium and the Hydropathic Establishment. ROTHESAY is the capital of Bute; its Castle, now in ruins, was a royal residence as early as 1100. We now direct our course to the entrance of the KYLES OF

BUTE, the scenery becoming still more attractive. On our left is Ardbeg Point,and farther on Port Bannatyne, a watering-place; on the right is Lochstriven. After touching at Colintraive, we pass through the Kyles (or narrows) of Bute. The passage here between the mainland and the Island of Bute, is very narrow. As the steamer turns to the left Loch Ridden comes in view, and the scenery becomes exceedingly varied and beautiful. We presently call at Tighnabruaich, à sea-side resort with many villas and cottages. We next pass Kames, and see before us the low-lying island of Inchmarnock, and beyond, the Holy Isle. Soon after turning Ardlamont Point, we have a view to the far south of the Island of Arran, with its highest mountain peak Goat Fell (3,000 feet). We are now in Lochfyne and on our left, on a clear day the Ayrshire coast is visible. We now approach the coast of Kintyre. Our next stopping-place is at East Tarbert, the pier of which is a mile from the village.

From this place coaches convey passengers to the head of West Loch Tarbert, a mile distant, from which point a swift steamer sails every day to the Island of Islay. On a height above Tarbert, is a castle built by Robert

Bruce, and in which he resided, in 1326. In a bay before us is Lochgilphead, on the right of which we see Kilmory Castle, and on the left ARDRISHAIG, our landing-place. Here, we leave the large steamer, and go on board the canal steamer for the passage through the CRINAN CANAL. This canal connects Lochfyne with Loch Crinan, and was constructed to enable vessels trading between the Clyde and the West Highlands, to avoid the circuitous passage round the Mull of Kintyre. It was completed in 1801; it has fifteen locks, through nine of which our steamer passes. For many years the passenger boats were drawn through the canal by horses. A few moments after leaving Ardrishaig, we see on the right the town of Lochgilphead with the Lunatic Asylum upon the hill, and in the foreground Bishopton Chapel and Palace, the seat of the Episcopal Bishop of Argyll and

the Isles. Half-an-hour brings us to Cairnbaan, the entrance to the Vale of Dail, where there are nine lochs through which the steamer passes in forty-five minutes. Leaving the valley, and descending on the west side, we pass on the right a plain of 5,000 acres, called Crinan Moss. On the summit of the hills, to the north and east, we see the village of Kilmartin, and near it the ruins of Carnasserie Castle. Farther off on our right, is the mansion called Poltalloch (John Malcolm, Esq.), whose estate reaches 40 miles in one line. The mountains of Scarba and Mull are visible. We next pass Duntroon Castle, a modern building upon a promontory, and reach CRINAN the terminus of the canal. A walk of half a minute brings us to the pier, where the large saloon-steamer

now

is waiting to start for OBAN (dinner is served immediately after the passengers go on board). Our course now lies across the mouth of Loch Craignish; on the left is the Sound of Jura. Fifteen minutes after leaving Crinan, we pass between the point of Craignish and the Island of Garbreisha. Leaving Craignish, we see on our left, Jura and the Island of Scarba, between which is the celebrated whirlpool of Corryvrechan. The Atlantic tide, rushing at a speed of about 18 miles an hour through the strait between Scarba and Jura, and impeded in its course by a sunken rock, is thrown into such commotion, that the roar of the waves can be heard for many miles. We now cross the mouth of Loch Melfort, and rounding the Point of Luing, enter the Sound of Luing, and after about 3 miles, arrive at Black Mill Bay, Luing. Two or three miles westward of the Phladda Lighthouse, is a group of islands, one of which, the Holy Isle, is associated with the memory of Saint Columba, containing the ruins of a chapel, and other structures. We now sail for a short time on the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. In the distance, on our left, is the Isle of Mull. We soon enter a narrow and rocky channel, and passing between the islands of Easdale and Seil, reach Easdale pier. Our course now lies along the coast of the Island of Seil; nearing the Island of Kerrera, we see on a rocky promontory Gylen Castle. We

now enter the Sound of Kerrera, and passing several mansions and villas, we soon come in sight of Dunolly Castle, one of the oldest and most picturesquely situated of the ruins of the Western Highlands. The principal part remaining is the donjon or keep. Upon the shore, about a quar

ter of a mile nearer Oban, is the huge conglomerate mass called Clach-na-cu or the Dog Stone. Tradition says that Fingal used this rock as a stake to which he tethered his celebrated dog Bran.

We presently reach OBAN (Hotels: See Hotel List). Those who desire to make the tours of Staffa and Iona, Loch Scavaig, Loch Coruisk, Skye, Gairloch and Loch Maree, land here, also those who wish to proceed by the morning boat to Ballachulish (for Glencoe) and Inverness, while those intending to continue their journey to Banavie same day remain on board. OBAN is a convenient centre for making excursions. It is of comparatively modern origin. It originally belonged to Campbell of Dunstaffnage, but since then there have been many changes of ownership. There are several large hotels and numerous villas, many of which are let for the summer. The position of the town is very attractive, the views being grand and extensive. The climate is mild and healthy

"For Oban is a dainty place;

In distant or in nigh lands,
No town delights the tourist race

Like Oban in the Highlands." Three miles northward from Oban are the ruins of Dunstaffnage Castle, the residence, in ancient times, of the chieftains of the Picts. Here, for a long time, was preserved the stone on which the kings of Scotland sat at their coronation. It was afterwards removed to Scone, where it remained until, in the thirteenth century, Edward I. carried it with him to England, and deposited it in Westminster Abbey, where it still forms part of the coronation chair on which the English sovereigns are seated at the time of their coronation.