Tolbooth, or borough jail, with a large clock projecting over the street. Beyond is Canongate Church, in the burying-ground of which lie Ferguson the poet, Dugald Stewart, and Adam Smith.

Farther on, on the right, is QUEENSBERRY HOUSE, once the house of the Duke of Queensberry. It is now a House of Refuge for the Destitute. A little farther on, on the left, is White Horse Close and the White Horse Inn, once a fashionable resort. Near this is the Abbey Court House and Sanctuary for debtors. The territory in which they are privileged from arrest for debt extends from this point for a considerable distance beyond the Abbey of Holyrood. We now emerge into the open space in front of Holyrood Palace, in the centre of which is the elaborate fountain erected by the late Prince Consort as a memorial of his temporary residence at Holyrood.

HOLYROOD PALACE was originally a convent, and owes its origin to David I. The legend runs that the king, in the year 1128, was hunting near the spot, and being attacked by a wounded stag and thrown down, a cross was mysteriously interposed between him and the stag, and the animal, being frightened, fled. The king founded near the spot the Church of the Holy Rood, and the Abbey became one of the wealthiest in Scotland. James IV. resided here, and James V. built the part of the palace where the apartments of Queen Mary are. In 1544 the whole Abbey and the royal apartments were burned by the English, who landed a force at Leith. They were again partly destroyed at the close of the Civil War. The present palace was erected by Charles II. The Duke of York, afterwards James II. of England, resided here. It was once the

residence of the exiled Count d'Artois, afterwards Charles X. of France. George IV. used to reside temporarily here, and Queen Victoria has occasionally resided here for a short time. On entering the palace (open every week-day, 1 to 6, admission 6d.), turning to the left and ascending the stairway, the first door leads to the long Picture Gallery. It contains portraits (imaginary) of reputed kings of Scotland painted by a Dutch artist, and without interest. In this room the election of the Scottish representative peers is held.

On leaving the Picture Gallery, the next rooms visited are those which Lord Darnley used to occupy, in which are portraits, amongst which is one of Darnley himself and his brother, and some fine specimens of ancient tapestry. From these the visitor ascends the staircase to QUEEN MARY'S APARTMENTS, on the third floor, the most interesting portion of the palace buildings. An attendant conducts strangers through the rooms. The first apartment is the audience-chamber, a room 24 feet by 22, with the roof divided into panelled compartments, embellished with the initials and armorial bearings of royal personages, and the walls of which are hung with ancient tapestry. Here are some embroidered chairs, and a state bed, said to have been used by Charles I. while resident in Holyrood; by Prince Charles Edward, before and after the battle of Prestonpans, in September 1745. The next apartment to this is the bed-chamber, the roof of which is divided into panels, adorned with various initials and coats of arms. Here are shown the queen's bed, the hangings of which are of crimson damask, with green silk fringes and tassels; some pieces

of tapestry; and portraits of Queen Mary herself, Henry VIII., and Queen Elizabeth.

At the south-west corner of this chamber a door leads to the dressing-room, some ten feet square. On the north side is a small door, which opens on the private staircase by which the assassins of Rizzio ascended to the royal apartments; and close to this door is the entrance to the supper-room or closet, where, on the night of the 9th of March 1566, Rizzio was dragged from the presence of the queen, and was finally despatched. "Darnley, who headed the conspirators, entered first, and casting his arm fondly round the queen's waist, seated himself beside her at table. Lord Ruthven followed in complete armour, looking pale and ghastly, as one scarcely recovered from long sickness. Others crowded in after them, till the closet was full of armed men. While the queen demanded the purpose of their coming, Rizzio, who saw that his life was aimed at, got behind her and clasped the folds of her gown, that the respect due to her person might protect him. The assassins threw down the table and seized on the unfortunate object of their vengeance, while Darnley himself took hold of the queen, and forced Rizzio and her asunder. It was their intention, doubtless, to have dragged Rizzio out of Mary's presence, and to have killed him elsewhere; but their fierce impatience hurried them into instant murder." Some dark stains, said to have been made by the blood of the ill-starred Italian, are still pointed out at the head of the stair. In this little room is a block of marble, which is part of the step on which Queen Mary and Darnley knelt at their marriage.

Descending to the inner court,

and proceeding eastward, we reach the ruins of the CHAPEL ROYAL, the only portion remaining of the Abbey of Holyrood. The only part now standing consists of the remains of the nave of the ancient building, originally 148 feet long and 66 feet broad. In the interior of the chapel, the two piers at the north-east end are all that remain of the seven that originally divided the nave from the aisles. The east window, 34 feet high by 20 feet broad, is of comparatively modern origin, and was blown out in a violent storm in 1795, but was restored in 1816. The most ancient portion of the present edifice is a small Norman doorway, now built up, at the back of the mass of masonry above the royal vault. Almost all the west front, with its great tower and richly ornamented doorway, is part of the original edifice, and a beautiful specimen of the mixed Norman and early English style. In this chapel Charles I. was crowned, and James II., James III., James IV., and Queen Mary and Darnley were married; and here, in the royal vault, at the south-east end, lie the remains of David II., James II., Mary of Gueldres, James V., the queen and second son of James V., the Duke of Albany, Lord Darnley, and many others of lesser note. In the north-west tower is the tomb of Lord Viscount Belhaven, councillor to Charles I., and one of the most remarkable men of his day, who died at Edinburgh on the 12th of January 1639. The monument is of Italian marble.

Having visited Holyrood, the tourist should take a carriage and make the circuit of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags by the beautiful road called THE QUEEN'S DRIVE. It is best to go up on the left or north side. Nearly

opposite the southern entrance gate of the Palace is St Margaret's Well, a small gothic building of great antiquity, with a groined roof, supported in the centre by a decorated pillar, from which the water flows through gargoils. Continuing the Drive, we see the ruins of St Anthony's Chapel on the rising ground to the right. This chapel was a hermitage of the Carmelite Friars. A little below the chapel is St Anthony's Well, a spring that flows from the rock into a stone basin, and then into the lake below. A small sheet of water, called St Margaret's Lock, lies at the base of the hill. At the bend of the road we see Dunsappie Loch, on the slopes to the east of which the army of Prince Charles Edward encamped both before and after the battle of Prestonpans. (The ascent of Arthur's Seat is made easily from this point, as the hill is less abrupt here than on any of its other sides. The summit is 822 feet above the level of the sea, and the magnificent view to be had from it will well repay the labour of the ascent.) Our drive now overlooks the village of Duddingston, with its loch, and its quaint church, and we see on the rising ground beyond the imposing ruins of Craigmillar Castle, where Mary Queen of Scots often resided. The road now descends a valley, and winds round the base of Salisbury Crags; but the higher road, on the right, a pathway cut in the face of the Crags-the highest elevation of which is the central cavity of the Cat Nick, about 570 feet above the level of the sea-is the one most frequently taken by pedes trians, as its elevated platform affords a series of magnificent views of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth, and the coast of Fife. It was a favourite walk of David Hume, the historian, and of Sir

F

Walter Scott, who says, "It used to be my favourite evening and morning resort when engaged with a favourite author, or new subject of study." The road in this direction is overhung by a range of greenstone columns of a pentagonal or hexagonal form, from 50 to 60 feet in length, and 5 in diameter, called Samson's Ribs.

The valley which divides Salisbury Crags from Arthur's Seat is called the Hunter's Bog. Farther on, near the park keeper's lodge at St Leonard's Hill, the cottage of Jeanie Deans may still be seen.

Having completed our visits to Calton Hill, Princes Street, and the Castle; having made the interesting journey from the Castle to Holyrood, and round Arthur's Seat and the Salisbury Crags, there remain some interesting objects to be seen in the New Town. Passing down Princes Street, about opposite the centre of West Princes Street Gardens, we reach Castle Street, turning to the right, into which street we soon reach No. 39 on the east side.

In this house Sir Walter Scott resided for twenty-six years (1800-1826). His attachment to this residence is shown in the following extract from his diary:

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So fare

"March 15th, 1826. This morning I leave No. 39 Castle Street. "The cabin was convenient,' and habit had made it agreeable to me. well, poor No. 39! What a portion of my life has been spent there! It has sheltered me from the prime of life to its decline, and now I must bid good-bye to it." The house is close to the wide and beautiful George Street. Looking toward the east up George Street, we see the monument to the first Viscount Melville, in the style of the column of Trajan at Rome. In the centre of the street is also

the statue of George IV., also a statue of William Pitt, and farther west, at the intersection of Castle Street and George Street, is the statue of Dr Chalmers. Looking to the left, down George Street, the view is closed by the dome of St George's Church in Charlotte Square. In the centre of this square is the PRINCE ALBERT MEMORIAL. It is a bronze equestrian statue of the Prince Consort, and is considered the chef d'oeuvre of the Scottish sculptor, Steell. It was inaugurated on the 17th of August 1876, in presence of the Queen. Directly in the rear of St George's Church is Melville Street, a wide and pleasant avenue, at the head of which, and but a short distance away, is the magnificent new Episcopal Cathedral of St Mary, the largest church erected in Great Britain since the Reformation, the length being 262 feet, and the breadth 98 feet. central spire is 275 feet high. Directly west of the Cathedral, and within a few minutes walk is DONALDSON'S HOSPITAL (admission by governor's order on Tuesday and Friday), the most important of the many charities of this class in Edinburgh. The founder, a printer, left his fortune of over £200,000 for the maintenance and education of a number of poor, including deaf and dumb, children. It was opened in 1851, and shelters nearly 300 children. Similar institutions, and well worthy of a visit, are HERIOT'S HOSPITAL, Stewart's Hospital, and John Watson's Hospital.

The

Immediately north of, and near the Albert Memorial, are Ainslie Place, Moray Place, and other handsome quarters, where reside the wealthier citizens of Edinburgu. North of, and parallel with Princes Street and George Street, which we have just visited,

is Queen Street, bordered on its north side, throughout nearly its whole extent, by the Queen Street Gardens. Other objects of interest in Edinburgh not previously mentioned are the following:THE UNIVERSITY, which may be reached by crossing the North Bridge, near the Waverley Railway Station, continuing across High Street along the South Bridge to the new Chambers Street, where it is situated. It was originally founded in 1582; the number of students is upwards of 1800; the library contains over 175,000 volumes; it is open daily from 10 to 4, fee 6d. Adjoining the University is the new Museum of Science and Art, open daily except Sundays, admission free on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 10 till 4. On Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday the fee is 6d. It contains a collection of illustrations of industrial art, comprising nearly all the chief manufactures of Britain, and many of foreign countries, and contains also extensive collections of Natural History.

A little to the south of the University is the Royal College of Surgeons, the museum of which is well worth visiting. Admission daily, except Tuesday, 12 to 4, free.

The Botanic Gardens in the northernmost part of the city, about a mile and a-half from Princes Street, were laid out in 1824, and comprise about thirty acres. They contain a museum, lecture-room, and herbarium; the Palm-House is 100 feet long, 57 feet broad, and 70 feet high. Admission free every day.

A very striking part of old Edinburgh is the street called the COWGATE, a little way south of and parallel to High Street. The buildings are very old, and the population consistsof the roughest element. Most persons will be content with a look into the Cow