and Barra; the whole length from Barra Head to the Butt of Lews being 120 miles.

The northern part of this great chain, viz., the Lews, 40 miles long, and in some places 24 in breadth, is in the county of Ross. Harris, though in the same islaud, and all the other islands, belong to the shire of Inverness. Harris is separated from the Lews by a long mountain range of about 8 miles in width, formerly the property of the MacLeods, but now belonging to Lord Dunmore.

The sail from Portree to Lochmaddy usually occupies about four hours and a half. Lochmaddy presents in itself a number of harbours capable of containing any quantity of shipping. As an example of the intricate windings of the salt water lochs, and the number of islands with which they are studded, we may refer to Lochmaddy, which covers about 10 square miles, and yet the coast line of its numerous windings, creeks, bays, and islands exceeds 300 miles. Lochmaddy is the principal place of interest in the district.

A packet sails between Lochmaddy and Dunvegan in Skye three times a week, the distance being 24 miles, fare five shillings. Among the many places of interest in North Uist we may mention the ruins of Rodel monastery, situated on the southeast point of the island, on the sea coast, under Ben Rowadill; it belonged to the Canons Regular of St Augustine, and was one of 28 monasteries in Scotland; the foundations are of Norman design, while the superstructure is of early English. A large ruin, in good preservation, at Carinish, called Teampul na Trianaid, or Trinity Temple, is said to have been erected in the fourteenth century by Annie M'Rorie, first wife of John of Isla, Lord of the

Isles. Among the numerous caves may be mentioned Slochd-a'choiri, or the cave of the kettle, at the point of Tigharry, not far from the Parish Church of North Uist. Coming to South Uist we find the remains of the Castle of Bowe, on the west side of Benbecula; the remains of a place of refuge on an islet in Loch Druidibeg; the Castle of Ormaclete, an ancient seat of the chiefs of Clanranald, the walls of which are still quite entire; also the ruins of another castle of the chiefs of Clanranald on a small islet on a lake near Howmore; and the remains of Caisteal-a'

Bhreabadair, or the Weaver's Castle, perched on a high rock in an island at the southern extremity of South Uist, near Eriscay, and opposite Barra.

The most entire castle is on the Island of Barra, and was the ancient residence of the MacNeills at Castlebay in the south end of Barra. The sail from Lochmaddy to Tarbert occupies about two hours and a half, the route being along the shores of North Uist. After passing the island at Glasse Lighthouse, we enter the Sound of Harris, and pass the island of Scalpay, where a boat comes off to the steamer. There are a few houses on the island, the inhabitants of which are chiefly engaged in fishing. The Sound of Harris is about 8 miles wide. It is studded with islands, and the navigation is intricate. The village of Tarbert is composed of a few houses. There is a good hotel, and plenty of rod fishing. The distance from Tarbert to the march of Lews is 8 miles, and thence to Stornoway 21 miles. The sail from Tarbert to Stornoway by steamer occupies two hours and a half.

While the eastern shore of these islands is bleak and sterile, the western shore facing the

Atlantic, although broken by occasional rocky headlands, is entirely different. There is a large extent of arable land. The whole length of the island is now traversed by at least one good road; while good school-houses have been provided, and the inns and public-houses improved perhaps as much as can be for the present expected in a locality so

remote.

ROUTE 19.

PORTREE TO STORNOWAY.

(Via Ullapool and Lochinver).

A

FTER leaving Portree the steamer resumes her course through the Sound of Raasay, having Skye on the left, and Raasay and Rona Islands on the right. On emerging from the Sound of Raasay we enter the Minch, and steer a north-easterly course along the shores of Rossshire, passing Loch Torridon and Gairloch. When about three hours sail from Portree we pass close to Ru Rea Point, at the entrance of Loch Ewe, and shortly thereafter Greenstone Point, at the entrance of Loch Grienord. We also pass Little Loch Broom, as well as Isle Martin and Priest Island. shores at the entrance of Loch Broom (the lake of showers) are bold and rocky. The sail from the mouth of the loch to Ullapool occupies three quarters of an hour. The scenery is fine; on all sides are mountains, chief of which is Ben More, towering above his fellows. We now arrive at Ullapool, and the steamer goes alongside a pier. The village stands on a terraced promontory, about half a mile square,

The

between the loch and the mouth of the river of Achall. The houses are ranged along the seabeach in several parallel lines, most of them whitewashed. Among the most conspicuous we may mention the church, manse, and hotel. The village was founded by the British Fishery Society about eighty years ago. The inhabitants number about 800, and are employed in fishing.

more delightful bathing beach could not be desired than that of Ullapool. The air in summer is soft, but bracingsplendid mountain scenery is often enlivened by boats and vessels, which come to anchor in the loch. There is good hotel accommodation, as well as a post and telegraph office. A mail car runs between Garve Station, on the Dingwall and Skye Railway, and Ullapool (37 miles), five days a week during Summer. Coigach, as the district to the northward as far as the boundary of Sutherland is called, is wild and of little interest to tourists.

The sail from Ullapool to Lochinver occupies two hours, the route being along the shores of Sutherland-shire, passing the island of Tanera, where a number of boats come out to the steamer. We also pass the Summer Isles.

In approaching Lochinver a series of huge mountain masses are seen in the distance Cunaig and Ben More (3281 feet); in the centre, Caneshb, and Suil Bhein (or the "Sugar Loaf ";) and behind Coul More, Coul Beg, and Ben More, of Coigach. Dr M'Culloch thus graphically describes the situation of "Lochinver":"Round about there are four mountains, which seem as if they had tumbled down from the clouds, having nothing to do with the country or each other, either in shape, materials, positio character, and which

look very much as if they were wondering how they got there." Lochinver House is situated close to the sea, on the bay of Lochinver, an inlet of the Atlantic, well adapted for sea-bathing and for boat-fishing. It is opened as a hotel for tourists and anglers.

The village of Lochinver is pleasantly situated at the head of the loch.

The scenery is extremely beautiful, and geologically Lochinver is of great interest. It was

the frequent resort of Sir Roderick Murchison, Professor Sedgwick, Professor Nicol, and other scientific men, and the district has always been a popular resort of tourists. It promises to be much more so now than hitherto, as the means of recreation have been immensely increased.

The rivers Kirkaig and Inver are close to the hotel, and anglers can have good sport. There are also a number of lochs in the immediate neighbourhood, celebrated for the number, variety, and heavy weight of the trout which frequent their waters.

The Falls of Kirkaig are five miles from the hotel, and are well worthy a visit. Stoir Lighthouse is six miles from Lochinver. The steamer again resumes her course, and in about four hours we enter the harbour of Stornoway.

ROUTES FROM GLASGOW TO LONDON.

There are two direct routes from Glasgow to London.

1. That by the Caledonian Railway (Central Station), which goes to CARLISLE by way of Carstairs Junction. From Carlisle, trains go over the line of the great London and North Western Railway, via Lancaster, Preston, Crewe, and Rugby, the London station being the EUSTON. The distance from Glasgow to London by this route is 406 miles. The principal express trains occupy ten hours. That part of the route from Glasgow to Carlisle is described in Route 14, that part from Carlisle to London, in Route 36. Saloon or family coaches are run on the morning express trains in either direction(without extracharge), and sleeping coaches on the night express trains (extra charge 58).

2.

That over the Glasgow and South-Western Railway (St Enoch Station), by way of Kilmarnock and Dumfries, to CARLISLE, thence by the Midland Railway, by Leicester and Derby, to LONDON, the London station being ST PANCRAS. The distance is nineteen miles greater than by route No. 1 above, and the trains occupy half an hour more than those by the old route (No. 1). Fares: same as by No. 1 above. Pullman drawing-room coaches on day express (5s. extra). Pullman sleeping cars on night express (88. extra).

ROUTE 20.

GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH.

HERE are two lines of railway between Glasgow and Edinburgh, that of the Caledonian Railway Company, which is the shortest by two miles, and the trains upon which make the distance in the shortest time, and that of the North British Railway Company.

1. THE CALEDONIAN ROUTE. The Glasgow Station is the new Central Station in the heart of the city. The distance to Edinburgh is 46 miles. Fares, first class, express, 68. 6d.; second, 58. There are no places in this route of especial interest to the tourist, and the fast express makes no stops between the two cities. The Edinburgh terminus is in Princes Street, the finest street of the city, within a short walk of the principal hotels.

2. THE NORTH BRITISH ROUTE. The Glasgow station is in Queen Street, close by St George's Square. The distance to Edinburgh is 48 miles. Fares same as by the Caledonian route, above. Near the city a tunnel 1100 yards in length leads to Cowlairs. Passing Bishopbriggs, Croy, and Castlecary, we reach FALKIRK (23 miles) (Hotel: Red Lion)-famous for its vestiges of antiquity and the great battle which was fought in the neighbourhood. The scene of the battle is about midway between the town and the river Carron. The battle is supposed to have raged near the village of Mungal by Mungalbog, behind which the Scots were posted.

LINLITHGOW (31 miles) (Hotel: Red Lion), the county town, a royal burgh, and a place venerable for its antiquities. The most remarkable of its build ings is the royal palace, a quadrangular building covering nearly an acre of ground, now in ruins, but still retaining an air of grandeur. Its base is washed by the waters of a beautiful lake, in which lake is the island connected with the singular tradition "that in remote times a black dog was found there chained to a tree, though there were no visible means of conveying it there." From this mysterious circumstance the burgh of Linlithgow assumed as its armorial bearings a dog chained to a tree. Within the palace is a handsome square, on the eastern side of which is a

large room having a gallery at

The

one end. This was called Parliament Hall. Queen of Scots was born. In this palace Mary chapel occupies one side of the square; it was built by James V. palace are very fine. About four The views from many parts of the miles beyond are the ruins of Niddry Castle, in which Mary, Queen of Scots found refuge the night after her escape from Lochleven Castle. Passing Winchburgh, Ratho (the junction for Queensferry), Gogar and Corstorphine stations, without meeting with anything of especial interest, we reach Haymarket, the West End station of Edinburgh, and thence passing on through the Princes Street gardens reach the Waverley Station.

HE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS of INTEREST, in the order in which they are hereinafter described, are Calton Hill, p. 73. Burns' Monument, and the other objects on and about Calton Hill; The Scott Monument, p. 73; Princes Street Gardens, p. 73; The National Gallery and Antiquarian Museum, p. 73; The Castle, p. 75; The Closes; St Giles' Cathedral, p. 77; Site of the Old Tolbooth, p. 77; Parliament House, and Grave of John Knox, p. 78; The Grassmarket, p. 77; Greyfriars' Churches and Churchyard, p. 77; Allan Ramsay's Shop; John Knox's House, p. 78; Holyrood Palace and Abbey, p. 79; The Queen's Drive,round Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags, p. 80; The New Episcopal Cathedral, p. 82: Donaldson's and Heriot's Hospitals, p. 82; University, Museum of Science and Art, College of Surgeons, p. 82; Botanic Gardens, p. 82; Excursion to Roslin and Hawthornden, p. 83.

CIRCUIT OF THE MOST INTERESTING OBJECTS.

Tourists are advised to begin their tour by a visit to Calton Hill, which is within a few minutes' walk of any of the hotels in Princes Street, from which point they will be able to see at a glance nearly every object of

interest in and around the city. Calton Hill rises 300 feet above the level of the sea, and terminates the city of Edinburgh towards the east. As we approach the hill from Waterloo Place, the eastern extension of Princes Street, we see on the left the monument of Dugald Stewart ; close to it is the Royal Observatory, a little to the west of which is the Old Observatory. On the summit of the hill is Nelson's Monument, the top of which, 350 feet above the level of the sea, may be reached by a flight of circular steps (fee 3d.) The monument is used as the time signal, a ball falling from the flag-staff on the firing of the one o'clock gun at the Castle. Between the Observatory and Nelson's Monument stands the National Monument, a partial reproduction of the Parthenon of Athens, unfinished. It was intended to commemorate the heroes who fell at Waterloo. The view is one of the finest in the world. Looking toward the south-east we see Arthur's Seat, and below, Salisbury Crags, and nearer, HOLYROOD PALACE and CHAPEL. At the south and close under the hill are seen the buildings of the High School, and Burns' Monument. At the High School great numbers of British celebrities have been educated. The cupola of Burns' Monument is a copy of the monument of Lysicrates at Athens. It is open every day from 10 to 4, fee 2d. It contains some interesting relics of the poet. Near by are the new Prisons. Opposite, across the valley, we see the huge sombre buildings of the OLD Town. The spire of Tron Church is conspicuous, and a little beyond and at the right, is seen the curious spire of St Giles' Church, in the form of an octagonal lantern, a notice of which is