WALES.

S part of England, Wales has been generally described under that article, but its comparatively isolated position and its very marked features, both physical and moral, demand for it a short additional notice. It is composed of a peninsula, with the island of Anglesey situated at its northwest extremity, and separated from it by the Menai Strait, now crossed by two very remarkable bridges (See page 131), and also a number of smaller islands chiefly at a short distance from the south-west coast. The peninsula washed north and west by the Irish Sea, and south by British Channel, and bounded west by the four English counties, Cheshire, Shropshire, Hereford, and Monmouth, is 135 miles long; where widest, 95 miles; and where narrowest only 35 miles broad, and has an area of 7389 square miles. It is very mountainous, particularly in the north division, where Snowdon, the culminating point of south Britain, rises to the height of 3570 ft., is intersected by beautiful valleys, traversed by numerous streams, including amongst others the Severn, which has its source within it, and is rich in minerals, particularly copper in the north, and coal and iron partially there also, but much more extensively in the south. The Silurian foundation, so-called after the Silures, the ancient inhabitants of the principality, covers more than two-thirds of the whole surface, extending continuously from the mouth of

the Conway to the vicinity of St David's Head, but is succeeded in the south by the red sandstone, above which lies, first the mountain limestone, and then the large and valuable coal-field already mentioned.

Besides the Severn, already mentioned, the principal rivers are the Dee, which has part of its lower course in Cheshire; the Clwyd, in Denbigh and Flint; the Conway, forming the boundary between Denbigh and Carnarvon; the Dovey, and the united Bheidial and Ystwith, which have their mouths near the centre of Cardigan Bay; the Teify, separating Cardigan on the north from Caermarthen and Pembroke on the south; the Cleddy and Cledden, remarkable chiefly from contributing from their junction to form the splendid estuary of Milford Haven; the Torey and Bury, which both fall into Carmarthen Bay; the Ebry and Taf, which have a common estuary in Bristol Channel; the Romney, which forms part of the boundary between Wales and England; and the Usk and the Wye, which, though rising in the Principality, have only the earlier part of their course within it. The lakes are numerous, but the largest, that of Bala, is only four miles long, and scarcely one mile broad. The climate is on the whole moderate and equable, though somewhat keen in the loftier districts. In all the counties, but more especially in the maritime, humidity is in excess, the average fall of rain in the Principality being 34 inches, while that in England is only 22. Hence both climate and surface concur in rendering Wales much more adapted for pasture than agriculture. The soil, too, seldom possesses great natural fertility except in some of the vales, of which those of the Clwyd in the

north, and of Glamorgan in the south, are celebrated for productiveness. The latter, rather a plain than a vale, is of great extent, and grows excellent wheat. The system of agriculture, however, notwithstanding recent improvements, continues on the whole indifferent. The minerals, as already observed, are very valuable, and the south contains some of the largest coal and iron works in the kingdom, as well as the smelting-works of Swansea, probably the most extensive in the world. Of manufactures, properly so-called, by far the most important are woollens. The principal articles are flannel, for which the Principality has long become famous, cloth chiefly of a coarser description, and hosiery.

The inhabitants long struggled manfully, first against the Romans, and afterwards against the Anglo-Saxons. They became tributary to England in the 10th century, and after various vicissitudes, in which their attempts to throw off the yoke only rivetted it more firmly, were finally and completely incorporated with the English monarchy in the reign of Henry VIII. Both in lan guage and manners, however, they continue to be a distinct people, and give undeniable evidences of a Celtic origin. Their dialect bears a marked affinity to the Gaelic or Erse, but is much more closely allied to the ancient Cornish dialect, and that which is still exclusively used by the peasantry in the west of the French province Bretagne. Welsh is one of the most ancient languages now spoken in Europe, and has also a literature, composed chiefly of the poetical effusions of bards, some of whom flourished as early as the 6th century, but partly also of prose, of which the translation of the

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Bible, completed in 1588, is considered one of the best specimens. Among the peculiarities which characterise the people, one of the most striking, at least to a stranger, is the female dress, consisting generally of a plain or checked gown, a mantle, a napkin of gay flaunting colours around the neck and shoulders, and a black beaver hat, either cylindrical, like that worn elsewhere by men, or broad-brimmed and tapering to the form of a truncated cone. All classes are distinguished by civility and hospitality. Many curious superstitions, handed down by immemorial custom, still retain their hold, and even the gross imposture of Mormonism has found many followers, particularly in the mining districts; but in addition to the labours of the Established clergy, those of the Methodists have been signally successful in diffusing a knowledge of religion, and the great body of the people belonging to what are called the Calvinistic Methodists, find one of their principal sources of enjoyment either as teachers or taught in the primitive services of their church, or in the Sunday-School almost invariably attached to it.

EAVING Chester our route passes for a considerable distance along and within sight of the river Dee. Passing Flint, 12 miles, with the remains of a Castle of the time of Edward I. abutting on the sea, we reach RHYL, 30 miles (Hotel: Queen's), a now fashionable watering-place at the mouth of the Clwyd. It has a pier more than 2000 feet long, an aquarium and winter garden, and a large hydropathic establishment. The climate is healthy, the sands excellent for bathing, and the views very

beautiful and extensive.

From Rhyl a line goes off to St Asaph, 6 miles; Denbigh, 12 miles; and Ruthin, 20 miles. (Tickets at reduced prices in summer.) ST ASAPH (Hotel: Plough) is a small cathedral town in a beautiful situation on high ground between the rivers Clwyd

and Elwy. The CATHEDRAL is a plain, cruciform structure, with a square tower, 93 feet high, rising from the intersection of the nave and the transepts. Its length from east to west is 179 feet, and its breadth at the transept 108 feet, at the nave and side aisles 68 feet. The

east end is lighted by a large window, an imitation of one at Tintern Abbey, filled with modern stained glass; and several other stained windows have been added at different times.

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Bodelwyddan, two miles from the town, is an elegant castellated mansion, the residence of Sir Hugh Williams, Bart. commands an extensive view of the sea of Rhyl and of the Vale of Clwyd. The park is richly wooded, and well stocked with deer; the gardens are laid out with much taste, and the hothouses are richly furnished. The magnificent church of St Margaret erected here by the Dowager Lady Willoughby-de-Broke, is one of the most perfect specimens of ecclesiastical architecture in the kingdom.

DENBIGH (Hotel : Crorn) is the capital of Denbighshire. It occupies a conspicuous position in the Vale of Clwyd. It stands on a height crowned by the ruins of a castle, from which the view extends from St Asaph on the one side to Ruthin on the other. There are many pleasant excursions to be made in the neighbourhood. RUTHIN (Hotels: Castle, Wynnstay Arms) is a pleasant town on the banks of the Clwyd. The modern castle, which strangers are allowed to visit, was built by the late F. R. West on the site of an ancient castle which once belonged to the Earl of Warwick. Charles I. held it for two months against the Parliamentary forces, by whom it was taken and dismantled. The

church, built in the 14th century, has been restored. The scenery in the neighbourhood is very pleasing, and the town is much resorted to by tourists. The line continues on to the south from Ruthin, and joins the route from Chester to Bala, Dolgelly and Barmouth described in Route 57.

Continuing our journey from Rhyl, we skirt the sea shore, and soon reach Llandudno Junction (44 miles), where a line goes a little over three miles to the rapidly growing town of LLANDUDNO (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"), called the "Welsh Brighton," the most attractive watering place in the Principality. It is handsomely built along the shore of Ormes Bay, under the shelter of Great Ormes Head on the north-west and of Little Ormes Head on the east. These two "Heads " are enormous masses of limestone rock rising abruptly from the sea to the height of several hundred feet, the highest point being 750 feet above the sea. There is a public walk around Great Ormes Head, which affords fine views over the sea, and inland views toward the Vale of Conway and the Carnarvonshire mountains. St Tudnos Church, dating from the 12th century, and recently restored, contains a curious ancient circular font. There are many pleasant excursions in the neighbourhood. [Southward from Llandudno Junction a line goes off to Llanrist, Bettws-y-Coed, and Festiniog through the Vale of Conway. It is 11 miles by this line to LLANRWST (Hotels Eagles, Victoria), a pleasant market town surrounded by beautiful scenery. The church of St Mary was built in the 15th century, on the site of one much older, which was dedicated to St Grwst, or Rhystyd, and hence the name of the town. It con

tains several interesting monuments, and has a beautiful carved screen, brought from the suppressed abbey of Maenan. În the south transept is Gwydir Chapel, erected in 1633 by Sir Richard Wynne of Gwydir, from a design by Inigo Jones.

Near GWYDYR HOUSE, the seat of the late Lord Willoughby d'Eresby, half-a-mile from Llanrwst, is a cataract called Rhayadry-Parem tær, where a small stream falls about 100 feet. In the mansion may be seen some good oak carvings and a screen worked by Mary Queen of Scots. By the roadside is the Fountain of St Allright, a stream conveyed in pipes from a large reservoir constructed at a considerable distance, on the side of the mountain, for which the public are indebted to the proprietor of Gwydyr.

(For tickets and information in relation to fishing in this region consult the landlord of the "EAGLES,” Llanrwst.)

Four and a half miles farther on is BETTWS-Y-COED (Hotels: Royal Oak, Waterloo), a favourite resort for tourists and anglers, and an excellent point from which to explore the east side of Snowdon and the adjacent valleys. The town is delightfully situated near the confluence of the Llugwy and Conway, and has long been a favourite haunt of the angler and artist. In addition to the Rhayadr-y-Wennol, the Falls of the Conway and of the Machno may be seen in the course of a single morning's excursion. The Miner's Bridge and the rapids of the Llugry, Ffos Noddyn (the fairy glen), and Pandy Mill, are well worthy of a visit. "A walk up the vale of the Lledr to DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE (5 miles) will repay the tourist, who will hardly have seen a more beautiful mountain river, a wilder-looking