of the Trumpington Road. The geological collections in the museum are of great value. In the town may be noticed the Church of St Sepulchre, with its round tower, built and named after the church of the same name in Jerusalem. One of the benefactors of the town was Thomas Hobson, the carrier, upon whom Milton wrote two epitaphs, alluding to the circumstances of his death. The rivalry between Oxford and its sister university Cambridge, the result of which has led to an annual struggle between them, in the form of a boat race on the Thames, near London, which has become of national interest, has sometimes been illustrated epigrammatically. In 1715-General Pepper having gone to Oxford with some dragoons, and adopted rather stringent measures towards the students, on account of their suspected Jacobite sympathies, at about the same time that the king is said to have sent a present of books to Cambridgesome wit, in the interest of the last-named university, observed:

The Isle of Ely, on which the town is situated, is a tract of land raised above the level of the surrounding fens which, in ancient times, were covered with water. The chief object of interest is its venerable Cathedral, founded in 1070. It is 510 feet long, being the longest cathedral in England, and taken as a whole the most beautiful. The recently painted roof of the nave representing the most sublime subjects from the Old and New Testaments, from the creation of man to the nativity of Christ, ending with the Lord in Glory, commenced by the late Mr Le Strange and completed by Mr Gambier Parry, is a most elaborate work of pictorial art; indeed the ceiling of Ely Cathedral is a carefully studied epitome of the sacred history of man as recorded in Holy Scripture. The architecture of the nave is Norman, 270 feet in height. Bishop Alcock's perpendicular Chapel. Bishop West's Chapel, the famous Galilee porch. Scot's screen, the Lady Chapel, and the Lantern Tower, should be noticed. The Lady Chapel adjoins the cathedral, and is now the parish

horse,

the reign of William the Conqueror. The keep is now used as a jail. The CATHEDRAL was commenced in 1094, and completed in 1361. It is in the Norman style, and contains some handsome carvings and monu

ROUTE 54.

THE UPPER THAMES.

The cloisters are very beautiful. Opposite the west end of the Cathedral is an ancient gateway called Erpingham's Gate. There are also several fine churches and public buildings which it is unnecessary to specify. Soon after passing Norwich we arrive at

Reedham Junction (138 miles). where there is a branch of 11 miles to Lowestoft, much frequented as a sea-bathing place. Skirting the north side of Breydon Water, a lake of some extent,

we next reach

YARMOUTH (146 miles.) (Hotel: Royal). The old town (Great Yarmouth), is connected by a bridge across the Yare with Little Yarmouth. A considerable trade is carried on here with the Baltic, but the principal business is the salting and exportation of herrings of a very superior quality, called "bloaters." Yarmouth Roads is the name given to the sea off the coast of Yarmouth. The quay is considered one of the finest in England, and affords a good promenade along an avenue shaded on each side by a row of trees.

In the neighbourhood is a handsome column to the memory of Lord Nelson. (Yarmouth, may also be reached by way of Ipswich in 121 miles. Through trains from London by this route in 3 hours 50 minutes).

21 miles by river.)

WING to the absence

of any regular public conveyance upon the Upper. Thames, the singular beauties of this river are known to few Englishmen ; to foreigners they are practically unknown. The most beautiful portion of the river is admittedly that between Henley and Windsor. Persons pressed for time might content themselves with what is the very best part of the whole river that from Great Marlow to Maidenhead, about 8 miles. The whole excursion from London to Henley by the Great Western Railway, by row boat from Henley to Maidenhead, and by railway from Maidenhead to London, could be accomplished in one busy day. Two days, passing the night at one of the charming inns on the river bank (Marlow or Maidenhead), would not only enable the tourist to see the river from Henley to Windsor, but to enjoy its rare beauties without hurry. This excursion cannot be too highly recommended.

The station of the Great Western Railway at Henley is close to the river. Fare from London to Henley, first class, 6s. 4d.; second, 48. 9d.; distance, 35 miles; time, 1 hour and 30 minutes. Boats may always be had close by the bridge at Henley. One rower is enough for a party of four or five persons down the river. There is no fixed tariff, but the demands of the boatmen are generally reasonable. HENLEY is an agree

able little town, with delightful surroundings. It is the scene of a famous regatta, the most important gathering of oarsmen in England. It occurs at the end of June or early in July of every year. The course is from Regatta Island, 1 mile below the bridge, to the bridge at Henley, the starting point for all races being near the little temple-like structure on Regatta Island, which forms a striking object in the view looking down the river from the bridge. This reach is regarded as one of the most picturesque portions of the river.

Leaving Henley we soon pass, on the left, Fawley Court, a plain mansion built by Inigo Jones. Not far below, on the same side, is Greenlands, the handsome mansion of the Right Hon. W. H. Smith, First Lord of the Admiralty in Lord Beaconsfield's Cabinet, and head of the wellknown firm of newspaper and book dealers, W. H. Smith & Son. Further on, on the same side, after passing Hambledon Lock, we see the pretty Ferry Hotel at Medmenham, and almost adjoining it the famous Medmenham Abbey, close to the river bank. (The hotel is an excellent place for luncheons or for a long sojourn.) The Abbey has been rendered famous by a convention of monks whose abbot was a peer. If we may judge from the old French inscription over the door at the east side, Fay ce que voudrais, the principles of these lay brothers were not so rigid as those of the monks of La Trappe. Of the mysteries of the fraternity various accounts are given. In the "Adventures of a Guinea,' the author gives an account of them such as could not properly be quoted here.

The Abbey was founded as early as in the reign of King John, and was a cell of the

Cistercian monks of Woodburn in Bedfordshire. In the reign of Henry VIII. it was made part of the endowment of Bisham Abbey in Berkshire. It was described at that time as having "two monks, servants none, woods none, debts none, bells worth £2, 1s. 8d., the house wholly in ruins, and the value of the moveable goods £1, 3s. 8d."

The fascinating scenery of this neighbourhood peculiarly attracted the notice of the clergy in former times, and they selected many spots hereabouts for their own. Harley Place, a little farther down the river on the other side, was formerly a monastery called Lady Place, a cell of the Benedictine monks of Westminster Abbey. The remains consist of the abbey yard, part of the chapel, and refectory, now stables. From this point there is a fine view of the hills and woods near Marlow. A little farther on, on the same side, is Bisham, celebrated for its ABBEY, founded in the reign of King Stephen. It was once the property of Henry VIII., who often visited it. Queen Elizabeth often resided here. In the Abbey Church Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick (the king-maker), was buried.

From Bisham, looking down the river, the town of Marlow is a picturesque object (Hotel: The Complete Angler, just below the bridge, on the river bank, very agreeable and not unreasonable in price.) The view from the bridge, both up and down the river, is one of the most beautiful on the Thames. The Quarry

woods extend a considerable distance, and form a noble screen on the Berkshire side of the river. Marlow is a favourite resort of artists, as the number of exhibited pictures of scenes in the neighbourhood testify. The Quarry

Woods below is a favourite spot for camping out. In the town is a house once inhabited by the poet Shelley, where he was visited by Byron. "The poem, The Revolt of Islam, was written in his boat as it floated under the beech groves of Bisham, or during wanderings in the neighbouring country.' Marlow is a most convenient centre for walks and excursions, having within an easy distance Henley, Medmenham Abbey, High and Chipping Wycombe, Bisham Abbey, and other places. A little more than three miles down the river from Marlow is COOKHAM (Hotels: Bell and Dragon, Ferry, both on the river.) This is by common consent the beginning of the best part of the river, the reach from Cookham to Maidenhead being unrivalled for beauty and picturesqueness in England. This region is better known to excursionists and picnic parties than any on the Upper Thames. Opposite Cookham are the woods of Hedsor (Lord Boston), and just below the lock, on the right, is the pretty island of Formosa. On the left bank is the princely seat of the Duke of Westminster, CLIEFDEN, the magnificent woods of which, sloping down from the summit of a lofty ridge, overhang the river. The grounds are very beautiful, and may be visited on the production of a ticket, to be procured at Grosvenor House, London. East of Cliefden are the magnificent grounds of Dropmore, open to the public every day except Sunday, and well worth visiting. The view from the house is very fine. Taplow woods adjoin those of Cliefden, and extend nearly two miles. TAPLOW is at some distance from the river. MAIDENHEAD BRIDGE is now reached (Hotel: Lewis's). The counties of Berks and Bucks are joined by the bridge, and a little

below the Great Western Railway crosses the river by a brick bridge of two arches, remarkable as exhibiting the longest span constructed of bricks in the world. On a retrospective view, after passing the Maidenhead Bridge, the hills and woods of Cliefden aid the landscape, and render the scenery exceedingly beautiful and picturesque. (There are frequent trains from Maidenhead Station, which is a few minutes' walk from the river. Distance to London by railway, 24 miles; time, 50 minutes; fares to London, first, 4s. 5d.; second, 3s. 4d.) Four miles by road from Maidenhead are the famous Burnham Beeches, one of the finest collection of old trees to be found anywhere. The ground where they grow has recently been acquired by the Corporation of London, and these venerable beeches will be preserved for the benefit of the public.

A mile below Maidenhead is Bray, celebrated for its accommodating vicar, and a little below is Monkey Island. Soon after passing the island, we obtain a distant view of the majestic towers of Windsor Castle, which remains a striking and beautiful object in the landscape until, after passing Clewer, we reach Windsor. (For description of Windsor see Route 41.)