the nave, and the Reredos, which was erected as a memorial to Sir Joseph Bailey. The most imposing part of the edifice is the north transept, with a splendid stained glass window in memory of Archdeacon Freer. The Lady Chapel, Bishop Stanbery's Chantry and the Audley Chantry are excellent examples of their respective styles of architecture. The Crypt is said to be the only one constructed in England after the 11th century. It is 50 feet long and consists of nave and aisles. The College of Vicar's choral, has a spacious hall. The Bishop's Palace is between the Cathedral and the river, and is nearly all formed from an old Norman hall.

The public promenade called Castle Green, with a Nelson column in the centre, affords many pleasing views.

From Hereford to Ross, 18 miles, the railway affords the best conveyance, as it runs for the most part along the river.

The finest scenery is between Ross and Tintern Abbey. Ross (Hotels: Royal, King's Head). The town stands upon what appears, from the Gloucester side, a gentle slope, but which is, from the Herefordshire side, a rocky precipice overlooking the Wye. The church, occupying the most commanding position in its centre, naturally calls to mind John Kyrle, the "Man of Ross," immortalized by Pope in his "Moral Essays."

'Who taught the Heaven-directed spire to rise."

The poem goes on to record the various benefits conferred by Kyrle upon the town and neighbourhood: its sanitary condition, and the agreeable promenades in

its vicinity, being due to his bounty.

The spire of the church has been injured by lightning at three different times. In the church is a marble monument to Kyrle, and others to the Rudhalls and Westfailings, families long settled in the neighbourhood. A curious feature is the growth of three elm trees within the church in the north aisle, which are said to have sprung up spontaneously in Kyrle's pew, after the cutting down of some which he had planted in the churchyard.

The view of the bend of the Wye from the terrace of the Royal Hotel is exceedingly beautiful. Just below Ross, the real beauties of the Wye begin. The tourist has the choice of the route by the river, or by the railway. In summer there is a coach from Ross as far as Monmouth (10 miles).

There are row-boats which ply in summer to Goodrich and Chepstow. The tariff is, from Ross to Goodrich, one rower, 6s: to Monmouth, 15s. Larger boats with two men are charged proportionately higher. From Monmouth to Tintern and Chepstow the railway should be taken.

This route has been appropriately described as being "probably unrivalled for that peculiar style of scenic beauty that results from the mixture of rich and well-cultivated grass land with abrupt cliffs, lofty hills, and woods descending to the water's edge.' Leaving Ross we soon reach Wilton Castle, an old seat of the Gray family. Up to this point the scenery is tame. Two miles farther on is Pencraig Court, and two miles farther GOODRICH COURT, the picturesque residence of Colonel Meyrick, rendered famous by the

collection of ancient and modern arms, armour, paintings, and antiquities formed here by the late Sir S. R. Meyrick, which visitors are allowed to inspect. A little further down the Wye upon the same bank is Goodrich Castle, an extensive ruin, alternately the residence of the Talbot, Pembroke, and Grey families.

see

Passing Kerne Bridge we soon see the spire of Ruardean Church, and passing Ladybrook, Courtfield, the residence of Col. Vaughan, which occupies the site of a house in which the Countess of Salisbury is said to have nursed Henry V. Coldwell Rocks are soon reached, presenting a rare combination of river scenery. (Here the boat is sent round the bend in the river by Whitechurch, a distance of 5 miles around, to be rejoined again by a walk of 600 yards across the neck, after the tourist shall have ascended Symond's Yat (540 feet high) for the sake of the unrivalled view.) The next remarkable bit of scenery is at New Weir, where the river is hemmed in by the precipitous sides of the Great Doward. A short distance farther is the Little Doward, below which is a private park. Hence, to Monmouth, the banks are rugged and covered with wood. Just before reaching Monmouth we pass the little church of Dixton. MONMOUTH (Hotel: Beaufort Arms) is at the junction of Monnow with the Wye. The attractions here are outside the town, the chief being Raglan Castle, 8 miles distant; a hill near Monmouth called Kymin, 700 feet high, affords a magnificent panoramic view.

Monmouth has an ancient gateway, and a small remnant of a castle where Henry V. was born. The encomium passed upon the town by Fluellen in Shakespeare's

play will be familiar to all readers, "There is good men born in Monmouth, look you;" &c. An early Norman structure has been restored as a distinct church ; the parish church of St Mary is also ancient. About 1 mile from Monmouth is Troy House, where the cradle and sword of Henry V. are shown. On the opposite side of the Wye, at Stanton, in the Forest of Dean, about 1 mile from Monmouth, is the Buck-stone, a supposed Druidical relic of the rockingstone order.

RAGLAN (Hotel: Beaufort Arms) is a small town 7 miles south-west of Monmouth, which has a station on the same line of railway, the West Midland, from which it is about one mile distant. It is famous for its castle, which the Marquis of Worcester, the celebrated inventor, defended against the Parliamentary forces under Fairfax, after the entire reduction of the rest of Wales, until the imprisonment of Charles I., when he surrendered it, after a siege of ten weeks. The ruins, like those of all the ancestral castles, &c., of the Beaufort family, are carefully preserved from further dilapidation; their extent is considerable, and they still bear traces of the taste and munificence of their latest occupants. Lord Raglan, who commanded in the Crimea, chose his title from this place.

(Passengers by railway from Ross to Monmouth get out at the Mary Hill Station.)

The remainder of the distance to Tintern Abbey and Chepstow should be made by railway. Tintern is reached in a few minutes after leaving. (Hotel at Tintern: Beaufort Arms.) The abbey is, with the single exception of Fountains, the most beautiful ruin in England. It was founded in 1131 by Cistercian monks. The

architecture is chiefly early English, and the carvings are very elaborate. It is 220 feet long and 70 high. The walls are almost entire, though the edifice is entirely roofless.

It is 4 miles from Tintern to Chepstow. The tourist should stop at a point about half way to Chepstow, and ascend the Wynd-cliff, a hill 970 feet high, on one side of which is a nearly perpendicular precipice. From

this elevation a magnificent view is obtained of the valley of the Wye, and the estuary of the Severn.

CHEPSTOW (Hotels: Beaufort Arms, George), situated about 24 miles above the junction of the Wye and Severn, formerly a strongly fortified place of much greater extent. The Castle stands on a cliff rising perpendicularly from the Wye. Its destruction dates. from the Civil Wars, during which its garrison made a desperate resistance to Cromwell himself. On the Restoration, Henry Marten, one of those who had sat in judgment upon Charles I., was kept here in confinement more than twenty years, and is buried in the church in which building, amongst the monuments is one of the second Earl of Worcester, of the Beaufort family. The tide rises here to a great height, but it is a place of no great commerce. In the town one of the old gateways remains.

From Chepstow BRISTOL may be reached in less than an hour by railway, and London in about four hours.

ROUTE 48.

LONDON TO SALISBURY.

83 miles. Fares, first class, 17s. 6d.; second, 12s. 3d.; third, 6s. 11d. Return tickets, 30s., 21s., 1 s.

ROM London to Basingstoke (37 miles), see Route 40, reversing the order of the places mentioned. Leaving Basingstoke, we pass several pretty villages and country houses not deserving particular mention, and reach Whitechurch (59 miles), a town with a population estimated at 1962. Here is a manufactory of paper for Bank of England notes. We pass, on the right, Hurstbourne Park, the residence of the Earl of Portsmouth, and next arrive at Andover (66 miles.) It is a place of considerable antiquity, and, in the neighbourhood, about 2 miles on the left, are the remains of several Roman encampments. Soon after leaving Andover we reach SALISBURY (83 miles). (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). It sprung into existence on the founding of a cathedral here in 1215, and

the consequent transfer of the episcopal see from Old Sarum. Seen from any direction, the eye is immediately caught by the graceful spire of its CATHEDRAL (see also p. 259), which is the loftiest in the United Kingdom, being 406 ft., and higher than the cross upon the dome of St Paul's. It is the pride of the place and county, and is an admirable specimen of early English architecture. A legend, common to many large buildings, is current here:-

The number of pillars will be accounted for, to those who know the style in which it is built, by the clusters of graceful shafts of small size, usually of Purbeck marble, grouped around the more substantial columns which are the real support of the edifice.

The Cathedral is in the form of a Greek cross, and the tower which supports the spire rises from the intersection of the choir and nave by the principal transepts. It contains many monuments of bishops and of the old earls of Salisbury. The monument of Bishop Roger is supposed to be one of the oldest existing of its kind. It has been seriously injured upon two occasions by lightning. The cloisters are very large and exceedingly fine.

In

the centre of the east side of the cloisters is the CHAPTER HOUSE. It is an octagon in form, 58 ft. in internal diameter, and 52 ft. high. It has been recently restored at a cost of over £50,000. The sculptures in the spandrels of the arches represent Old Testament history to the time of Moses.

The Palace adjoins the Cathedral. There are many old gableended houses, which give a mediæval appearance to those parts of the town where they are found. Among the modern improvements of Salisbury is the institution founded and endowed by the late Mr William Blackmore, of London, a native of this place, which is called the

Blackmore Museum, and is of especial interest to Americans. Mr Blackmore, being in America during the late civil war, hearing that Messrs E. G. Squier and Dr Davis, in order to prevent the dispersion of their collections of American antiquities (the most extensive ever made), had offered them to the Historical Society of New York, and that the price which they demanded was considered too high, purchased them at the price asked, and placed them in the handsome building which he has erected to receive them. To these he has added a great number of primæval antiquities from other sources, and the whole collection is exceedingly instructive to the student of pre-historic times.

Massinger the dramatist, and Dodsworth the antiquary, were natives of Salisbury.

The wonderful structure called by the Saxons STONEHENGE, "the hanging stones," of unknown purpose and antiquity, is on Salisbury plain, about 9 miles north of the city; upon the plain are also many ancient burial-places or tumuli of various forms.

Old Sarum is about 1 mile from Salisbury, on the Marlborough road. It consists simply of an oval entrenchment, with a smaller one, corresponding in outline, within it: the area comprised within the larger is about 27 acres.

From very early times until the passing of the Reform Bill in 1832, this place, without houses or inhabitants, returned two members to Parliament, while some of the great centres of industry and population, such as Birmingham and Manchester, sent none.

It was the most fla

grant example of a "'rotten borough."

ROUTE 49.

LONDON TO EXETER, PLYMOUTH, & LAND'S END. GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY.

From London to Exeter, 1933 miles. Time, 4 hours and 15 minutes. Fares: first, 358.; second, 25s.; third, 14s. 3d. From London to Penzance, 328 miles. Time, 9 hours and 20 minutes. Fares: first, 63s. 6d. ; second, 44s. 6d.; third, 25s. 3d. For that part of the journey from London to Bristol-see Route 45.

HE first place of importance after leaving Bristol is TAUNTON (163 miles from London) (Hotel: London Hotel), an ancient town situated on rising ground above the river Tone. Its chief object of interest is the old castle, now much decayed. Its remains, grounds, and the moat are interesting. In the rooms of the castle is the museum of the Archæological and Natural History Society of Somersetshire. The church of St Mary Magdalene is considered one of the best churches in the perpendicular style in England.

Thirty miles beyond Taunton, 193 from London, is EXETER (Hotels: Clarence; New London), the county town of Devon, a city and bishop's see; having access to the coast by means of a canal 5 miles long, commenced in the reign of Elizabeth, but subsequently lengthened and deepened so as to permit vessels of considerable size to come up to the city. It has no special manufacture. Exeter is very picturesquely situated on the banks of the Exe, and has been a place of import

ance from early British times. It has still, in its buildings, many indications of its antiquity. Its principal feature is its CATHEDRAL, built upon the site of an older one which was destroyed by 1280, the choir was finished in Commenced in King Stephen. 1318, and the nave in 1327. It contwo short transepts, under the sists of a nave, with two side aisles, two low Norman towers, a choir, ten oratories or chapels, and the Chapter House. The whole buildng, from east to west, is 408 feet in length. The western front is ornamented with niches and eleand kings, and its facade is one gantly carved effigies of saints of the most striking in the kingdom. The Chapter-house is a beautiful building, with a handsome oak ceiling, and contains the Cathedral library. Amongst other ancient documents preserved here is the original Exon Domesday Book, and the charter of King Stephen. In the north tower is the "Peter Bell," weighing 12,500 lb., and a clock of curious and antique construction; in the south tower is a peal of 11 bells, the power of which may be judged from the fact that the tenor weighs 2000lbs. The interior is very fine, and the effect of the Early English clustered columns of the nave, with their pointed arches supporting the stone roof, is very impressive. The screen, which separates the nave from the choir, is of exquisite workmanship and universally admired.

The tourist will observe the remains of the Castle of Rougemont, said to have been built by William the Conqueror upon the site of an older fortress. Many Roman antiquities have been discovered here.

There are several public buildings, and a park, named after Queen Victoria.

[From Exeter the tourist may conveniently reach ILFRACOMBE