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sidence of the Counts of Nangis. Near FLAMBOIN (59 miles) we see, on the right, the ruins of its Castle, and proceed along the valley of the Seine to Nogent-surSeine (683 miles). On the tower of the church is a statue of the martyr St Laurence, whose deathscene is represented in a picture, attributed to Lesueur, over the high altar. Two other pictures merit attention-"The Triumph of the Virgin and the "Flight into Egypt.' About four miles distant, in the valley of Ardusson, is the vault formerly containing the remains of Heloise and Abelard, marking the site of the ancient Abbaye du Paraclet, founded by the latter in 1123. After passing some unimportant places, we reach

TROYES (103 miles). (Hotels: des Couriers, de France.) The Cathedral Church of St Peter and St Paul is a beautiful and imposing structure, in the flamboyant Gothic style. It has undergone

restoration to a considerable ex

tent of late years. It retains many of its original stained windows, which are exquisitely designed, and of brilliant colours. The baptismal chapel is adorned with panels, painted to represent various scenes in the life of Christ. The treasury contains some choice enamels, and two coffers of carved ivory taken at the sacking of Constantinople in 1204. The church of St Urban is a chef-d'oeuvre of Gothic architecture of the thirteenth century. Several of the other churches are worth a visit. Of the remaining objects of interest we may mention the Hôtel de Ville, the Hotel Dieu, Hôtel de Vauluisant (containing a large gallery adorned with paintings of mythological subjects), the Museum, and the Public Library "Troy-weight" is so called because it follows the standard formerly preserved here. The

church of St Pierre at Vendeurre (1234 miles) has a beautiful doorway, in the style of the Renais sance, and also several fine paintings; amongst others, a Representation of the martyrdom of St Ursula and the 11,000 virgins. Crossing the Aube we reach Barsur-Aube (137 miles), Maranville (148 miles), and Chaumont (1624 miles), the last named being noted only as the scene of the Treaty of Chaumont, entered into between the Allied-Powers in 1814, to readjust the boundaries of France to their limits before the Revolution. Langres (184 miles) is celebrated for its superior cutlery. Its Cathedral is an elegant structure of the twelfth century. Soon after passing Campagney (2651 miles), we go through a long tunnel, and enter the valley of the Savoureuse, from which we get a view of the Jura mountains on the right; we then reach the strongly fortified town of Belfort (2743 miles). The citadel and the other defences were constructed by Vauban. It was surrendered to the Germans in February 1871. The railway now follows the canal extending from the Rhone to the Rhine, and then crosses it over a viaduct, from which we can see the Black Forest. We pass Altkirch (294 miles), and arrive at

MULHOUSE (3041⁄2 miles). (Hotel: Romaine.) This is one of the most important towns of Germany, especially as regards cottonprinting, and the manufacture of muslins. It contains several industrial and benevolent societies, a

Museum of Industry, a handsome Hotel de Ville, &c. The canal here forms an extensive basin. St Louis was, before 1871, the frontier station on the French side.

BALE (323 miles). (Hotel des Trois Rois.) (For description of Bale, see Route 97.)

ROUTE 78.

PARIS TO LAUSANNE BY
PONTARLIER,

HE shortest route from Paris to Switzerland is by the Lyons Railway to Dijon, and thence by Dole and Pontarlier to Lau

sanne.

By this route Lausanne is reached in 13 hours, by express train.

Distance 330 miles. Fare, first class, 65 20; second, 47·10 francs. (For the route as far as Dijon, see Route 81.)

A railway was opened in 1875 from Pontarlier to Lausanne, direct. By this new route the former time between Paris and

PONTARLIER (283 miles), (Hotel: National). This is the frontier town of France. Proceeding through a picturesque country, we pass Verrieres, celebrated for its extensive clock manufactures, and several other places, and finally, after obtaining a fine view of the range of the Alps, reach Lausanne.

It is 45 miles from Pontarlier to LAUSANNE, for description of which place see Route 112.

Lausanne is shortened two hours. 375

Crossing the Ouche, and leaving, on the right, the Dijon line, we proceed for some distance between the Canal de Bourgogne and the Ouche. In fine weather we can see the range of the Jura and occasionally the summit of Mont Blanc. We presently reach

DOLE (226 miles). (Hotel: de Geneve. The town is prettily situated on the Doubs. It was formerly the capital of Burgundy. Soon after passing Dole we enter the immense forest of Chaux and emerging from it near Chateloy, we obtain a beautiful view of At the surrounding country. Arc-et-Senans there are considerable salt works. Several other stations are passed, but no place worth mentioning until we arrive at

ROUTE 79.

PARIS TO GENEVA, BY
MACON.

miles; 1st class, 78'05 francs;
2nd, 57 85 francs.

(For that part of the route from Paris to Macon, see Route 81.)

Time by best train 11 hours.

FTER passing Macon, the first place of note is BOURG (298 miles), (Hotel de l'Europe). This town formerly belonged to the House of Savoy. Francis I. took it in 1538, but it was not till 1600 that it finally passed into the hands of the French. About half a mile from Bourg is the church of Notre Dame de Brou, a remarkable Gothic structure, built in 1505-36 by Margaret of Austria, daughter of the Emperor Maximilian, and

aunt of Charles V. The interior is decorated with sculptures, including the beautiful mausoleums of Margaret of Bourbon, Margaret of Austria, and Philibert le Beau, fine wood carvings and painted windows.

Shortly after passing AMBERIEUX (317 miles), where we join the line from Lyons to Geneva, we proceed along the bank of the river Alberine, up a narrow valley through the Jura mountains, the sides of which, up to their very summits, are covered with vines. At CULOZ (334 miles) there is a branch line to Chambéry and Mont Cenis. Here the train to Italy by the Mont Cenis Tunnel goes off to the south. Some miles further on we reach Bellegarde (Hotel: Poste), the frontier town of France. A short distance from the station is the Perte du Rhone, a narrow rocky channel, where the river, when low, disappears for a distance of about 120 yards. Blasting operations, carried on with the object of facilitating the navigation of the river, have greatly spoilt the curious effect of this formation. Beyond Bellegrade a viaduct of eleven arches crosses the bed of the Valserine, and enters the Tunnel of the Credo, nearly 2 miles in length. The cost of making it was seven and a half million francs, and it took three and a half years to complete it. The work was under the direction

age." Near the further ex-
tremity of the gorge is the Fort
de l'Ecluse, standing on a high
and steep rock commanding the
pass. We next go through two
short tunnels cut through the
roch, and reach Collonges, the last
station in France.
As we pro-
ceed, we begin, by degrees, to
observe the chain of heights
which are crowned by Mont
Blanc, and, shortly before reach-
ing Merin, we obtain a view of
Mont Blanc itself. On the left
are the Alps of the cantons of
Vaud and Valais, on the right,
Credo and the Fort de l'Ecluse,
behind us the Jura mountains,
and in front les Salèves, over-
topped by Mont Blanc. We next
reach GENEVA (375) miles). (For
description of Geneva, see Route
112.)

ROUTE 80.

PARIS TO TURIN, BY
MT. CENIS.

2nd, 74 65 francs.

(For that part of the Route from Paris to Macon, see Route 81; and from Macon to Culoz, see Route 79.)

of Mr Goodfellow, an English 505 miles; 1st class, 100 20 francs; engineer. From Bellegarde to Collonges, six miles distant, the Rhone flows through a narrow gorge, between Mont Vonache and Mont Credo, described by Cæsar as A narrow and difficult way between Mont Jura and the river Rhone, by which carriagesEAVING could scarcely be drawn, one by one; moreover, a very lofty mountain overhung it, so that a very few could easily prevent a pass- which

66

L

Culoz we cross the Rhone, having on our right the Canal of Savières, connects the lake of

Bourget with the Rhone. The railway skirts for a long distance the shore of the lake, the views over which are very fine. On the left is the Chateau de Chatillon, where Pope Celestin IV. was born. Across the lake is the range of hills called the "Dent du Chat," at the base of which is the Monastery of Haute Combe, in the Gothic chapel of which the Princes of Savoy are buried. The original convent was pillaged during the French revolution, and so badly injured as to require to be rebuilt, which was done in 1824 by Charles Felix, King of Sardinia. It is now occupied by Cistercian monks. Lamartine has made this lake the scene of some of the most touching incidents related in his "Raphael." After skirting the shore for a considerable distance, the line branches off to the town of AIX LES BAINS, (363 miles). (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). This agreeable wateringplace is at a short distance from the lake of Bourget. It is celebrated for its hot aluminous and sulphurous springs, the temperature of which ranges from 1000 to 117° Fahr. The waters under the name of Aquæ Gratiana, were in repute with the ancients, and there still remain some ruins of a triumphal arch and of a temple of Diana, also the vestiges of some Roman baths. The scenery in the neighbourhood is picturesque, and many pleasant excursions may be made in various directions. The favourite excursion is on the Lake of Bourget to Haute Combe, above described.

[A branch line goes off to the left to ANNECY, a curious old town on the Lake of Annecy. with two interesting churches. It was once the home of J. J. Rousseau. There is excellent fishing in the lake. Fares from Aix, 450 francs.]

Leaving Aix, and skirting for a time the shore of the lake, we reach CHAMBÉRY (373 miles). (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). This was formerly the capital of Savoy; it is beautifully situated in a rich vine-clad valley, between two ridges of hills. It is a dull and uninteresting town, but the scenery of the neighbourhood is exceedingly fine. It contains the ruins of an old castle, seven convents, a royal college, several hospitals, and a library of 16,000 volumes.

[From Chambéry an excursion may be made to the Monastery of La Grande Chartreuse, about 15 miles distant in a direct line. Excursions are more frequently made to it from GRENOBLE, distant from Chambéry by direct railway about 39 miles. It stands 4,268 feet above the level of the sea, in a lonely and secluded position, surrounded by woods. It is a plain, irregular building, or collection of buildings. Visitors are not allowed to remain more than two days. The infirmary is now occupied by Sisters of Charity, and ladies staying at the convent are lodged here, while male guests sleep within the walls. Meals are taken by both sexes together in the dining hall. The cells are very meagrely furnished. The chapel is a plain uninteresting building. In the chapterhouse are copies of the paintings, preserved in the Louvre, representing the life of St Bruno, the founder, by Lesueur, together with portraits of the Generals of the Order, and a statue of St Bruno in marble. The brethren are bound to preserve silence amongst themselves, and are only allowed to go beyond the precincts of the convent on Thursdays, on which day they are allowed to answer strangers who address them. The monk who attends to visitors within the convent has a

dispensation from his vow of silence whilst so engaged. The chief revenues of the monks are derived from their cattle, and from the manufacture of the excellent liqueur which takes its name from this place.

The Grande Chartreuse dates from 1084. There were formerly about 200 convents belonging to the order, among them the Charter-house in London.

GRENOBLE (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"); is a fortified town situated on the Isére, near its confluence with the Drac and Romanche. These streams water a delightful valley, surrounded by high mountains. The cathedral is not attractive externally, but contains an elegantly sculptured Gothic tabernacle, and a fine tomb of one of its former bishops, in the choir. In the church of St André is the monument of the Chevalier Bayard, in whose honour a bronze statue is erected in the Place St André. There is a Palais de Justice, a Museum, Cabinet of Natural History, and a remarkably fine Library. The chief manufacture carried on at Grenoble is that of kid gloves, of which on an average six million pairs are produced in the year. Many pleasant excursions can be made in the neighbourhood; among others, to La Grande Chartreuse, which may be reached either by rail to Voreppe, on the Lyons Railway, and from thence by omnibus to St Laurent du Pont, close to the monastery, or by a bridle road, which latter takes six or seven hours. Hire of horse from the place to the convent, 450 francs, man 2 francs.]

After passing Chambéry we proceed along a beautiful valley, leaving the Castle of Batie on the left, and, on the right, Mont Grenier, which rises to a height of 5,700 ft. A little further on we

observe, on the left bank of the river Isere, the Chateau Bayard, where the famous knight of that name was born. We presently reach MONTMÉLIAN (383 miles). The castle, of which a mere fragment remains, was formerly the great stronghold of Savoy. Beyond Montmélian we obtain, in fine weather, a good view of Mont Blanc. Near St Pierre d'Albiny, a few miles distant, is the ruined Chateau de Miolans, standing on a lofty rock. Previous to the annexation of Savoy, this castle had, for some time, been used as a state prison. At Aiguebelle in the valley of the Maurienne, we observe the Castle of La Charbonniere, where many of the counts of Savoy were born. Originally their seat was at ST JEAN DE MAURIENNE (416 miles).

ST MICHEL (424 miles). (Hotel: de la Samaritaine).

Near

MODANE (431 miles). this station is the great Alpine Tunnel. (All Passengers change. Luggage examined). Good buffet and table d'hote in the station. (Travellers are recommended on arriving here to go at once to the restaurant and secure their meals while the luggage is being placed in the Custom House, and afterwards to attend to the luggage. If the removal of the luggage is waited for, there will be little time after it is examined to secure refreshments.) Trains through the tunnel commenced to run regularly on the 17th of October 1871.

Near Modane is the commencement of the great Tunnel under the Alps, 7 miles in length, completed on Christmas Day, 1870. Boring operations were carried on from both the French and Italian sides by means of engines worked by condensed air.

[As some travellers may desire to cross the Mont Cenis Pas

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