ROUTE 59.

THE ENGLISH CATHEDRALS.

HE English Cathedrals are those of Bath, Bristol, Canterbury, Carlisle, Chester, Chichester, Durham, Ely, Exeter, Gloucester, Hereford, Lichfield, Lincoln, Manchester, Norwich, Oxford, Peterborough, Ripon, Rochester, St Alban's, St Paul's, London, Salisbury, Wells, Winchester, Worcester, and York. In descriptions of these churches, Westminster Abbey, though not a cathedral church, is usually included.

Leaving St Paul's out of the account (it is described in Route 39), the cathedrals among those above mentioned which are best worth seeing are York, Wells, Ely, Canterbury, Salisbury, Lincoln, Durham, Winchester, Lichfield, Peterborough, Exeter, and Norwich.

The first place is generally given to York, the king of the cathedrals," on account of its dignity and massive grandeur, recalling, as it does, more than any other English cathedral, the great cathedrals of the continent. But the interest of York centres chiefly in the church itself, the close, the cloisters, the palace, and other adjuncts of an ecclesiastical establishment being wanting. Wells is unquestionably the most perfect and interesting example of an ecclesiastical establishment in England, and the rare state of preservation in which the church and dependant buildings are found to-day, render the city the most interesting in

England. But each and every one of the English cathedrals has its points of interest, and in this route the editor has employed the very limited space at his disposal to give some idea of the chief attractions of the most important ones, so that in selecting those he shall visit the tourist will have some means of making an intelligent choice.

YORK.

(Distance from London, 1884 miles. Great Northern Railway, time by express train, 3 hours 50 minutes; fares, first class, 27s. 6d.; second, 21s. 3d.; third, 15s. 8d. For Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.")

YORK MINSTER is a prominent object in the landscape as we approach the city, towering as it does above the surrounding buildings. The usual approach is to the western front, which is composed of a battlemented gable set between two towers, the entire structure being covered with arcades of canopied niches. The central porch is divided into two portals by a shaft with six foliated triangles, on the head above this rises the west window richly canopied. The lantern tower rises only one story above the roof it has two canopied windows on each face. The entrance is usually by the great portal of the south transept (restored 1880). The view on entering here is the finest in the cathedral, the eye taking in at one glance the great height and breadth and the length of the whole transept, the fine effect of the light admitted through the rich ancient glass, and the lantern of the great central tower. The transepts are in the early

English style. The window at the end of the north transept, consisting of fine lofty lancets called the "Five Sisters," is very beautiful. The nave is in the decorated style. The view from a point about half way up the nave, taking in the roofs of the nave and choir, the arches supporting the lantern tower, the great east window of the choir, and the effect of the glass in the windows of the nave, aisles, and clerestory, is the grandest in the whole church. The view from one end to the other of the naves of the aisles is very beautiful, extending the whole length of the church, 486 ft.

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The entrance to the Chapter House is from the east aisle of the north transept. It is an octagonal structure, and each bay contains a window. windows are filled with beautiful stained glass of the time of Edward II. This chapter house is considered the most beautiful in England.

The entrance to the choir is through a stone rood screen. The choir is the grandest in England. The tower should be ascended for the magnificent view. The open spaces at the west and north of the church afford fine views of the exterior, but the best views may be had from the city walls.

The length of the church inside is 486 ft., height of the nave 93 ft., height of choir 103 ft., width of nave 106 ft., height of the two western towers 196 ft., of the central tower 198 ft.

York is described also in Route 43.

WELLS.

(Distance from London by Great Western Railway, 125 miles, time, 4 hours and 10 minutes; fares, first class, 24s.; second, 18s. 6d.; third, 11s. 6d.; return tickets, 41s. and 33s. 3d.

The cathedral of St Andrew of Wells, with its three towers, forms, like most of the cathedrals, a striking and impressive object in the landscape as one approaches the city. The city itself, as we have already stated, has alone, of all the cathedral towns, preserved a seclusion and calm which have remained unbroken for centuries. The cathedral itself, from the completeness of its ground plan, the profuseness and richness of its decoration, the perfection of its architecture, and the remarkable preservation of its three gates, palice, and conventual buildings, stands unrivalled. The great glory of Wells is its west front, to the beauty of which all architectural writers bear enthusiastic testimony. It is completely covered with sculptures: of the figures 153 are of the size of life or larger, and more than 450 are of smaller size. The subjects are from the Bible, and embody the whole Christian scheme from the Creation of the world to the Judgment. In the first arcades are figures of early missionaries, and next angels. Above, on the north, there are two tiers of kings and queens, on the south are bishops and saints. In the sixth tier in the upper niches, and on the south and north fronts, are represented the dead rising from the grave, in the seventh are angels, in the eighth apostles, and in the ninth the Eternal Judge. The west front is composed of a central bay

with a double doorway beneath, above which are three lancet arches, while above and below are arcades of niches. The gable is fronted by a similar screen rising from projecting buttresses which terminate in circular pinnacles and spirelets. These projecting buttresses, covered with statuary, form also a distinctive feature of the two towers, in each face of which are two mullioned windows. Passing to the north porch, which is worthy careful examination, we note the picturesque grouping of the transept, chapter house, and the chain gate, which leads to the Vicar's Close. The ground plan of the church consists of a nave of ten bays with aisles, a transept with aisles, a lady chapel and two lateral chapels, which form an eastern transept, St John's to the north, St Katherine's to the south. The cloisters are on the south.

Entering by the west front a magnificent view presents itself of the lofty pointed arches, with their columns and foliated capitals, the range of lancets which compose the triforium, the deeply recessed clerestory and the stone roof springing from short columns of beautiful design. On entering the Choir, one is struck with the ornament, the luminousness and delicacy of the three easternmost severies. The three westernmost bays are similar to the nave, while beyond the altar are seen the graceful arches and clustered pillars to the Lady Chapel.

Owing to the peculiar and beautiful arrangements of the Lady Chapel and the retro-choir (procession aisle), the manner in which the various groups of arches and pilasters are seen below the low altar-screen, the splendour of the stained glass, and the beautiful architectural details of the choir itself, it may

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be safely said that the choir of no English cathedral affords a view more impressive or more picturesque." The CHAPTER HOUSE, the finest of its date (1302), is approached by a flight of 20 stairs. It is octagonal, and supported by a central shafted column. The groined roof springs from it, expanding like the boughs of a palm-tree, and is enriched with bosses of foliage. The Cloisters occupy a large area, and are not specially remarkable. The Bishop's Palace resembles baronial castle; it is surrounded by a moat and defended by walls and bastions. It has a beautiful chapel. The Deanery is a magnificent specimen of architecture, dating from 1472. A little to the north-east of the Cathedral is the Vicar's Close, the most remarkable and picturesque in England. It contains a chapel, a library, hall, and twenty dwelling-houses ranged on either side. There are many monuments in the cathedral, but none calling for a special description. The extreme length of the cathedral is 371 feet; the length of the nave, 191 feet; height of nave, 67 feet; length of transepts, 135 feet; height of central tower, 160 feet; of the western towers, 130 feet. The best external view of the cathedral is that of the west front, from the north-west corner of the cathedral green. Another beautiful view is that from the terrace of the Palace garden.

The striking peculiarities of the cathedral, as one approaches it from the direction of the railway station, are its great length, its single western tower, and its beautiful central octagon. A nearer view of the exterior is less pleasing than that of many of the cathedrals, the only elaborate workmanship being at the east end, and upon the exterior of the Lady-Chapel. The best entrance to the cathedral is by the famous Galilee or western porch, a beautiful early English work, 40 feet in length, consisting of two simply vaulted bays. The ground plan of the church is cruciform, containing a nave, choir, presbytery, and transept, with aisles to each. The Norman nave of thirteen bays has a triforium of an arch in each bay, beneath a larger arch, and clerestory of three arches in each bay. The roof is of wood, the aisles retaining their original stone vaulting. While the aspect of the nave is sombre and plain, its vast dimensions and its loftiness give an

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impressive effect. The principal transepts are three bays deep, and have east and west aisles.

The impression created by the central octagon, "perhaps the most beautiful and original design to be found in the whole range of Gothic architecture is almost bewildering, so great is the mass of details pressing for notice, so varied and unusual, the many lines and levels of piers, windows and roofs, all glowing with colour and intersected by the most graceful and delicate tracery." The view from beneath the octagon looking down the nave, is very fine, extending into the west porch or Galilee. This is one of the best points from which to view the paintings in the roof. from the octagon by a carved oak screen and brass gates of elegant design.

The choir is separated

The stalls which extend throughout the choir are constructed in two stages, the lower of which is recessed, and from the front rises a series of panels, filled with modern wood carvings, those on the south representing subjects from the Old Testament; those on the north from the New. In the eastern part of the choir is the beautiful Reredos, the sculptures of which are very rich. At the end of the north aisle is the beautiful chapel of Bishop Alcock, and opposite, at the end of the south aisle, is Bishop West's Chapel, the elaborate ornamentation of which is very remarkable. From the corner of the north transept, we enter the LadyChapel, now the parish church. It suffered much damage from the Puritans, but is still one of the most beautiful examples of the Decorated style to be found in England. Many of the conventual buildings still remains the north-east angle of the cloisters, which were destroyed in

1650, with some remarkably fine Norman doorways may still be seen. The present Deanery was the ancient guest hall. Among other remains is Prior Craudene's Chapel, which has been restored, and is used as the chapel of the grammar school. Farther on to the south still stands the great gate of the monastery. Ely Porta," the room above the archways of which is used for the King's Grammar School. West of the cathedral is the BISHOP'S PALACE, dating from the time of Henry VII. The Norman portion of the church dates from about 1170. The church was dedicated in presence of King Henry III. in 1252. The western tower dates from 1184, the lantern from 1382, the Galilee porch from 1200, the Lady-Chapel from 1349, Bishop Alcock's Chapel from 1488, that of Bishop West from 1534. The extreme length of the cathedral (interior) is 517 feet, making it with the exception of Winchester the longest Gothic church in Europe. The length of the nave is 250 feet; its breadth, 78 feet; its height, 76 feet; length of the transept is 179 feet 5 inches; the height of the great west tower is 266 feet.

CANTERBURY.

(Distance from London, 62 miles by South Eastern Railway or London, Chatham, and Dover Railway; time, 2 hours; fares, first, 158.; second, 10s. 6d.; third, 5s. 2d.; return tickets, 22s. 10d., 16s., and 10s. Trains in summer from Charing Cross without stops.)

The cathedral grounds are almost completely surrounded by houses, and the first near-by view is obtained as we enter the

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grounds through Prior Goldsmith's Gate. The exterior is imposing, the two western towers being full of grandeur and beauty, and the central steeple one of the most graceful existing examples of pointed architecture. western front is flanked by two towers. The principal entrance is by the south porch. The nave has eight bays without triforium. The clerestory of the choir is filled with good stained glass, representing the genealogy of our Saviour. The transept has no aisles; the north wing bears the name of The Martyrdom, and is the place where St Thomas-aBecket was murdered (1177.) To the east is the Lady Chapel, with exquisitely carved stone roof. In the apse, approached by a broad flight of stairs, is St Thomas's Chapel (now called Trinity), which contained the shrine of St Thomas-a-Becket, to which great numbers of pilgrims came. Between the first two piers of this chapel, south, is the monument of Edward the Black Prince. The effigy is brass; above it are hung his helmet, gauntlets, shield, and the scabbard of his sword. Opposite it, on the north, is the tomb of Henry IV. and his second wife, Joan of Navarre. Descending the south aisle of Trinity Chapel, from the south-east transept, passing down the aisle of the south aisle of the choir, we reach the south-west transept, opening east from which is St Michael's Chapel. From the Martyrdom transept we enter the Norman crypt, or Under croft, toward the east end of which is the chapel of Our Lady of Undercroft, which was for a long time the tomb of Becket. The precincts of the cathedral include many remains of the old monastery of Augus tine, among them the cloisters and the chapter house. The Green