communicating with the city walls. Beyond this lies the Orange Grove.

The Palace of San Telmo is the residence of the Duke of Montpensier. The principal entrance consists almost entirely of costly marble, but is rather overcharged with ornaments. Here is a good Picture Gallery. The Gardens are very extensive.

The Casa de Pilatos is said to be built of the exact dimensions and in imitation of Pontius Pilate's house at Jerusalem. The patio is magnificent, with the customary fountain in the centre. The black marble cross, it is reported, was made at Jerusalem, on the model of the true cross. This is the spot from whence the stations of the cross begin, ending at the Cruz del Campo.

The Plazo de Toros, built in 1760, is capable of accommodating 12,000 spectators. One side was injured by a hurricane, in 1805, and has not been since repaired. The bull-fights in Seville are considered by Spaniards the best in Spain, owing to the peculiar wildness and strength of the bulls.

The MUSEO, or Picture Gallery, is principally composed of works by the Spanish masters, especially those of Murillo. Amongst others that of "St Thomas of Villanueva giving alms to the poor." Murillo considered this picture as his chef d'oeuvre. A small gratuity to the attendants is expected. A very good catalogue can be obtained for a trifling sum.

The oldest of the Promenades is that of the Alameda de Hercules. Here are four avenues of fine trees with six fountains. The most fashionable is the Las Delicias de Christina, occupying the space between the Golden Tower (Torre del Oro) and the palace of San Telmo.

The Torre del Oro, on the left

bank of the Guadalquivir, is a very ancient tower, attributed in turn to the Romans and the Moors. The Golden Tower has played an important part in the history of Don Pedro of Castile. It is now used as offices.

Leaving Seville we proceed along the valley of the Guadalquivir, and cross the Guadaira. The country abounds with groves of orange trees and olive-yards.

Utrera (375 miles). Population, 14,250. An ancient Moorish city, formerly fortified. It is situated in a charming valley. On one of the surrounding hills are the ruins of an old castle. The church of Santa Maria possesses numerous relics: amongst others, that which is said to be one of the thirty pieces of silver paid to Judas for the betrayal of our Saviour.

Lebrija (401 miles).

Population, 11,500. It is situated on a hill which overlooks the ruins of an old castle, surrounded by a magnificent country, and formed of well built houses.

Jerez de la Frontera (Xeres), (421 miles). Population, 50,000.

This is a fine city, celebrated for the wines to which it gives its name. The houses are built and furnished with remarkably good taste. All the country round Jerez has the appearance of a vast vineyard. Visitors are admitted to some of the principal vaults or caves (Bodegas), which are of immense extent. Jerez formerly possessed many convents; these are now for the most part converted into barracks or wine depots. This place was founded by the Phoenicians. Before its walls the Carthagenians and Romans fought a great battle, the issue of which was that the latter gained possession of the city and fortified it. It was in this neighbourhood, in 711, that the memorable battle took place between

dence for foreigners, on account of the courtesy of its inhabitants. The ladies are gracious and attractive; their beauty is proverbial.

ROUTE 187.

CORDOVA TO MALAGA.

(Time, 7 hours.) Distance, 120 miles. Fares, 1st class, 106 reals; 2d class, 792 reals.

(For description of Route to Cordova (276 miles), see preceding Route.)

N leaving Cordova, we pass on the right the Îine to Seville. Crossing the Guadalquivir, we pass two unimportant places, and reach Montilla (3063 miles). It is situated in one of the most beautiful parts of Andalusia. Montilla was the birthplace of Gonzalvo di Cordova, called the Great Captain. The place is celebrated for its extensive vineyards. We next reach Aguilar(310 miles), population, 12,200; also renowned for its wines. Here is an interesting old Moorish castle. Puente Genil, here the Genil is crossed. La Roda, junction on the line from Seville. At Bobadilla, the line to Granada branches off, passing through a very romantic and beautiful district. Soon after leaving Gobantes we pass through the magnificent gorge of the Hozo, and the views are very grand. Alora, a picturesque town, surrounded by the finest orange and lemon groves in the world. Passing several uninteresting towns we reach Malaga. (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.") Population, 113,000.

The climate is temperate and salubrious. The heat is tempered by sea breezes during the day,

and by light winds during the night. No endemic disease prevails here, and the annual mortality scarcely exceeds one per cent. of the population. It has been highly recommended as a winter residence for invalids, especially those whose lungs are affected; but as the town is dirty and uninteresting, it is not an agreeable residence.

Malaga was built by the Phoenicians several centuries before Christ. It was first called Malacha, a name derived from the Hebrew Malach (salt), from the large quantity of salt adapted for fish-salting found in the vicinity.

The city is divided into two distinct parts: the old quarter, which retains its Moorish peculiarities, narrow and winding streets; and the new quarter, which is well built. Many of the streets in the latter part are straight and wide, with some elegant looking houses.

The Alameda is a public walk, and has a central promenade separated from the carriage-ways by rows of almond and other trees. Here are also several pieces of sculpture, and a handsome marble fountain. The other promenades are the Plaza de la Constitucion, the Plaza de Riego, the Plaza de la Puerta del Mar. In the centre of the Plaza de Riego a monument has been erected to the memory of General Torrijos and his compatriots, who were massacred at Malaga in December 1831 by the treacherous Moreno.

The English Cemetery is very neatly arranged, and is used as a promenade by the natives. Here is buried the unfortunate Lieutenant Boyd, who was shot at the same time as Torrijos and his companions.

The principal buildings are the Episcopal Palace, the Town Hall, the Atarazana, a Moorish arsenal, with a beautiful portico of white

marble; and the Alcazaba, an ancient fortress, the only remaining portion of which is occupied by the military governor.

The Moorish Castle of the Gibalfaro, to which access is had by a steep, zigzag staircase, has been converted into a modern fortress. The view from its summit is very fine.

The Cathedral of Santa Barba is of modern date, having been commenced in 1528. It is built in a mixture of styles. The facade is very beautiful. It consists of two tiers of Roman Corinthian architecture, the columns being of fine marble. In the interior, the roof is supported by lofty columns, faced below with fluted, semicircular pilastres, of the Corinthian order, these being surmounted by a rich cornice and entablature, and finally rising with a second tier of square pilastres. Many of the altars are fine. The silleria of the choir and the two organs are very remarkable. The chapel of the Encarnacion contains a richly sculptured and elegant retable, also some fine paintings. A magnificent view can be obtained by ascending the cathedral tower.

Many Roman antiquities have been found in the environs of Malaga.

The church of Los Santos Martires is one of the most frequented in the city. It has a high tower, decorated in an original manner. The interioris very richly adorned, and contains painted wooden sculptures representing the Apostles and Saints.

Malaga is celebrated for its fine wines, and for its raisins; other articles of export are-oil, almonds, figs, orange-peel, lemons, cochineal, &c. There is a fine drive along the shore towards Velez Malaga.

ROUTE 188.

SEVILLE TO GRANADA.

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EAVING Seville, we stop at UTRERA (see page 767). OSUNA (57 miles) population 16,000. On the hill is a castle and the Colegiata. The streets are narrow and picturesque. The city was taken from the Moors in 1240. The Colegiata is a fine building containing a crucifixion by Ribera.

La Roda (92 miles). Here the railway from Cordova to Malaga is joined.

BOBADILLA (104 miles), which is the junction for Granada; excellent buffet at the station.

ANTEQUERA (114 miles), population 30,000. Once an important Roman station. It was recovered from the Moors in 1410. Near the town is a salt lake. It is now famous for its manufactory of woollen cloths and blankets.

LOJA (138 miles). This picturesque town, once the key to Granada, was taken by Ferdinand and Isabella in 1488, after a siege of 34 days.

Illora (151 miles).

PINOS PUENTES (157 miles), population 4109. It was here that Columbus was stopped by Isabella's messenger.

SANTA FÉ (161 miles). Built by Ferdinand and Isabella during the siege of Granada on the site where their camp was burned. It was at Santa Fé that Isabella gave her sanction to Columbus starting on his voyage of discovery.

GRANADA (167 miles), (Hotels, see "HOTEL LIST") population 100,678.

This city is built on the lower

spurs of the Sierra Nevada ranges, and is divided into four quarters, viz., Granada proper, which occupies the space at the foot of the hill and is the residence of the wealthier classes; the Alhambra, situated on a high hill that commands the rest of the city, and is called La Sierra del Sol (the Mountain of the Sun), the Albaicin, which occupies the upper part of a hill separated from the Sierra del Sol by the valley of the Darro; and, finally, the quarter of Antequeruela, also a suburb, inhabited chiefly by artizans, and lying at the foot of the Albaicin.

The whole district abounds in beautiful scenery, and the snowy mountains, which form the background of the city give the air a delightful freshness even in the hottest season.

The avenue which leads to the Alhambra "the pride of Granada, and the boast of Spain' begins at the highest part of the city, and conducts the traveller through a massive gateway of modern architecture up the steep side of a hill, where it is lined with trees and parterres of aromatic shrubs. A turn in the avenue leads to the famous Tower or Gate of Justice.

In the Plaza de los Algibes, or Square of the Cisterns, is situated the Torre de la Vela, or watchtower, where the Christian flag was first hoisted by Cardinal Mendoza. This tower contains the bell that announces the hours for the irrigation of the Vega, which operation is regulated to the present day, according to the rules and forms established by the Moors more than 300 years ago.

On one side of the square extends the palace of Charles V., built in the Renaissance style, still remaining unfinished.

The name Alhambra denotes "the red house." This palace of

the Moorish kings consists of a vast and irregular collection of buildings, built of brick, slightly reddened, the walls of which enclose a plateau 770 yards in length and 200 yards wide. It comprises numerous courts and halls, of which the two principal are the Patio-de-los-Leones (Court of Lions) and the Patio-del- Estanque.

The Court of Lions is 100 ft. in length and 50 ft. in breadth, environed with a colonnade 7 ft. broad on the sides, and 10 ft. at the end, of light Moorish arches on slender marble columns. This apartment has been pronounced "the pearl of the Alhambra, solemn as a cloister, and charming as a picture from the Arabian nights.' The square is paved with coloured tiles; the colonnade with white marble. Above and below is a border of small escutcheons, enamelled blue and gold, with an Arabic motto, signifying "No conqueror but God.' The columns that support the roof are of white marble, and very slender. The width of the horse-shoe arches above them is 4 ft. 2 inches for the larger ones, and 3 ft. for the smaller. Above each arch is a large square of arabesques, surrounded with a rim of characters, generally quotations from the Koran. Over the pillars is another square of filigree work "like a tissue of Brussels lace." In the centre of the court is the celebrated lion fountain, a basin of oriental alabaster supported upon twelve animals, which rather resemble panthers than lions. This fountain is embellished with festoons and Arabic distiches.

The Patio del Estanque is an oblong square with a deep basin of water in the middle, two flights of marble steps leading to the bottom. Round this court runs a peristyle paved with marble;