At a

This is one of the ancient cities of Spain. It has successively been in the possession of the Romans, the Goths, and the Arabs. Later, it was besieged by the Knights of the Order of St John of Jerusalem. distance of 15 miles from Alcazar is the village of Toboso,-a name familiar to all readers of Don Quixote, in connection with the erratic knight's lady-love, Dulcinea del Toboso. Alcazar is by some supposed to be the birthplace of Cervantes, but this is disputed. Passing some places of no interest, we reach

ALBACETE (174 miles) (Hotels: Parador de Diligencias, de San Juan) population, 15,250. Here are some small cutlery works, the principal articles of their manufacture being sword-blades and daggers, for the most part highly ornamented. The principal buildings are the parish church, the Hotel de Ville, the Palace of Justice, the Theatre (formerly a monastery).

At CHINCHILLA (186 miles) the line to Cartagena branches off to the right.

Almansa (233 miles), population, 9,000. This place is tolerably well built, with wide and straight streets, but not paved. An ancient castle overlooks the town. In the neighbourhood is erected an obelisk, in commemoration of a battle between the English and French, on April 25, 1707. The French being commanded by an Englishman, a natural son of James II., and the English by a Frenchman. The victory was gained by the French. The inscription on the monument is in Latin and Spanish. At La Encina (245 miles) the line to Valencia turns off to the left. At Villena we see an old castle on the summit of a hill, and an old Moorish Alcazar, in ruins, at Elda. Passing through a very fertile country, we reach

ALICANTE (278 miles) (Hotels: Fonda del Vapor, Fonda de Bosio), population, 32,000. This, the port of Madrid, is frequented by the ships of all nations. There is direct communication by steam between Alicante and all the Mediterranean ports. The city possesses some fine buildings, but the streets are badly paved.

The

The Picture Gallery of the Marquis del Angolfa contains some of the paintings of Murillo, Velasquez, Albert Dürer, &c.; also a collection of medals. Permission will be granted to visit the Castle, by sending card, with names, to the Governor. Castle itself is an object of great interest, and a splendid view of the sea and surrounding country can be obtained therefrom. Among other objects of interest are the Ayuntamiento and the Episcopal Palace. There is an extensive tobacco manufactory, employing between 4,000 and 5,000 women and girls.

The Plaza del Toro can accommodate 11,000 spectators. Alicante is a thriving seaport town, its trade principally consisting in the export of wine, raisins, almonds, esparto (for paper-making), saffron, and minerals.

In 1823 it was the last city which surrendered to the French.

ROUTE 184.

MADRID TO CARTHAGENA.

is the sanctuary of Fuen Santa. On the left are a convent of the Hieronymites, and the government gunpowder manufactory.

MURCIA (286 miles) (Hotels: Francesa, Patron), population, 110,000. This city is surrounded by a tract of the most fertile country in Spain, watered by a system of irrigation introduced by the Moors. The Cathedral, formerly a mosque, and subsequently a church belonging to the Knight - Templars, was restored in the 18th century. The reliefs, sculptures, and statues which adorn the facade are all finely executed. The three entrances are surmounted by groups which are especially striking. The style of the building is semi-gothic, except the cupola, which is Græco-Roman. A sarcophagus in the principal chapel contains the remains of

(For the route as far as Chinchilla (186 miles) see preceding Route.)

HE first place of importance is HELLIN (236 miles), in the neighbourhood of which are considerable sulphur mines. On leaving Hellin we pass, on the right, a mountain range intersected by deep valleys The plain in front is covered with olive plantations. About Calasparra (240 miles), are extensive rice-fields. The country is very fertile, and abounds with fruittrees of all kinds.

ARCHERIA (261 miles) is celebrated for its mineral and tepid springs, which are very much frequented.

Alcantarilla (281 miles) is situated in the midst of a district rich in cornfields and vineyards. In the far distance, on the right,

sacristy contains a bas-relief, in walnut-wood, representing the Descent from the Cross. The tower is 450 feet high.

The Episcopal Palace has a handsome marble staircase, fine apartments, and a good library.

There is a good Botanical Garden, and the public promenades are extensive and well laid out.

Murcia is celebrated for its silk manufactures. The country becomes by degrees bleak and barren. On the left, near Bazilcas (312 miles), is a large lake, abounding with fish, separated from the sea by a tongue of sand, and communicating with it by a narrow channel. La Palma and Pozo Estrecho (320 miles) are celebrated for their wines. The level country through which we next pass has a clay soil, and produces little except grapes.

CARTHAGENA(328 miles) (Hotels: Francesca, de las Cuatro Naciones), population, 35,000. This town

collegiate church, a market-hall for the sale of silk, a Plaza del Toro, some hospitals, a number of convents, and several delightful promenades.

The railway now leaves behind the mountainous tract, and enters upon a well-cultivated country. It is this part, with Andalusia, that the Moors called the "Paradise of the West." The climate is superb, and the whole country very fruitful-rice, wheat, barley, pepper, citrons, oranges, olives, and palm-trees growing in great luxuriance. Passing several places which call for no particular mention, we reach

VALENCIA (318 miles) (Hotels: de Paris, del Cid, Madrid, Francesca), population, 146,000. This is a large and beautiful city, the capital of the province of the same name, situated on the banks of the Guadalaviar. It is the sce of an archbishop, the residence of a captain-general, and the seat of a University. The city is almost circular in form, and surrounded by walls, which were built in 1356, and are still in a tolerably perfect condition.

Valencia has regular and frequent steam communication with all the Mediterranean ports. The climate is delicious. The Cardinal de Retz called this region the most beautiful garden in the whole world. It has been, in turn, the favourite of the Roman, the Goth, and the Saracen-to the last of whom it owed its chief increase and magnificence. As a seat of learning in the best days of Mahommedan Spain, Valencia ranked second only to Cordova. In the 11th century it was wrested from the Moors by Rodrigo Diaz de Bivar, surnamed the Cid. He maintained his conquest to the close of his life, when the Christians were obliged to abandon the place, taking with them the body of

their deceased lord. It was borne on a litter, attended by the entire garrison marching in procession, before which the astonished Moors, not aware of the Cid's death, opening a passage, fled. During the 13th century, Valencia again fell to the Christians. King James of Arragon, joined by a body of French led by the Bishop of Narbonne, besieged the city; and at length the Moors, reduced by famine, were compelled to surrender it.

THE CATHEDRAL (called La Seo) has been greatly injured by modern additions. It occupies the site of a Roman temple of Diana. It became a church under the Goths, and a mosque under the Arabs. The octagonal steeple, called El Miguelete, is 130 feet high. The interior has three vaulted naves, supported by pillars with Corinthian capitals. One side of the choir is encrusted with alabaster, and adorned with splendid paintings of subjects taken from Scripture history. The Cathedral possesses an immense quantity of relics and beautiful ornaments; also some curious old documents and liturgies, including an English missal said to be from Westminster Abbey.

Amongst the churches worth visiting are those of San Martin, with a noteworthy statue over the door, of the saint on horseback, parting his cloak in order to give alms to the poor, and in which are some fine paintings; San Nicolas, formerly a Moorish mosque; Santa Catalina, an ancientmosque, with its light and elegant tower; Santos Juanes, containing fine frescoes and marbles; San Salvador; San Andres, containing some good paintings; and San Juan del Hospital, where is the tomb of the Empress Constance-Augusta, of Constantinople, who took refuge in Spain, and died there. Va

lencia possesses many convents, the most important of which is that of the Temple, an ancient Moorish palace, transformed into

a

convent by the Templars. Amongst the many public establishments the most important is the Colegio de Corpus, founded in 1586, and finished in 1605, by Archbishop Juan Ribera. The chapel of the college should be visited during the service on Friday morning, at 10. The interior is purposely darkened, and the service is very interesting. The picture above the high altar is removed by invisible machinery, and the vacancy is supplied in turn by several sombre veils, of different colours, till at length appears the representation of the Crucifixion a superb specimen of carving in dark wood. During all this time the Miserere is chanted by the choir.

Valencia possesses several hospitals, and a University with a library of 40,000 volumes. The Museum, formerly a convent, possesses many pictures, the best being those by the Spanish masters; one being a modern painting of Don Quixote and his trusty servant Sancho, by a young Catalan artist, named Serran. This picture gained the prize at the Exhibition in Madrid, in 1867, and was bought by ExQueen Isabella, and presented by her to this Museum. Casa Consistorial contains some good paintings.

The

The promenades are very fine. The most agreeable are the Glorieta, a charming garden, planted with flowers and trees, where a military band plays every evening; the Alameda, at the entrance to the city; the Botanical Garden; and the Queen's Garden, noted for the beauty of its fruits and flowers. Some fine houses round the city possess excellent gardens,