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Job, which, though amongst his earliest performances, are not altogether devoid of merit. Herr Gozzoli finished, in the short space of two years, his "Noah Inebriated," his Building of the Tower of Babel," with other scriptural subjects which cover one entire wing of the cemetery --a work that might, as Vasari well observed of it, appal a whole host of painters. Here, also, Andrea Orcagna gave a representation of the Last Judgment; and Bernardo Orcagna another of the Inferno. In a painting in the corner of the rectangle to the right of the entrance, Andrea has taken occasion to represent the effects of the sacred soil of which the cemetery is composed.

It is said to have been filled, to the depth of 9 ft., with earth brought by the Pisans from the Holy Land, on their return from the third crusade. This earth was thought to possess the property of decomposing animal substances in the space of fourand-twenty hours. Such, at least, is the prevailing notion, though Simond, on the contrary, asserts that "bodies buried in it are said to be safe from decay." Ranged round the walls are a number of interesting sarcophagi, Egyptian and other antiquities, and several modern statues. On one of the walls are the chains of the ancient harbour of Pisa, captured by the Genoese in 1362, parts of which were given to the Florentines, and restored to Pisa in 1848.

The University of Pisa is one of the oldest in Italy; it was founded in 1298, and is still accounted the seat of Tuscan education. It has three colleges with thirty-five professors, also a library, a botanical garden, a cabinet of natural history, and an observatory. The expenses

are wholly defrayed by government, but the number of students never exceeds 500.

Among the other public build ings, special notice is due to the churches of La Madonna della Spina and San Stefano, both rich in paintings and sculptures, and the latter famous for its organ, the largest in Italy; the Grand Ducal and Lanfranchi Palaces: the Torre del Fame,so called from its being supposed to have been the spot in which Ugolino Gherardesca and his children were starved to death in 1288.

The Palazzo Toscanelli, formerly Lanfranchi, is attributed to Michael Angelo. Lord Byron resided here in 1822. Galileo was born in the Palazzo Scotto, on February 18th, 1564.

The Academy of Fine Arts, established in 1812,by Napoleon, contains some very good paintings, chiefly of the Pisan and Florentine schools.

Pisa contains some Roman remains, amongst which are the baths, called Bagni di Nerone, and the vestibule of a temple, now forming part of the Archivio del Duomo.

Pisa is a place of great antiquity, having been one of the twelve towns of Etruria, and afterwards augmented by a colony from Rome. It did not however become distinguished till the tenth century, when it took the lead of the commercial republics of Italy. In the eleventh century its fleet of galleys maintained a superiority in the Mediterranean, commanding the coasts of Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica, and Barbara, and assisting the French in the Crusades. In the thirteenth century, the ascendancy of Genoa cast Pisa into the shade; in 1298 its fleet was destroyed by its rivals; and since the beginning of the sixteenth, it was subject to Tuscany, until it

sea-coast.

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From this place we pass through a fertile plain to Cecina (32 miles), situated on the southern bank of the river of that name, near the Great quantities of charcoal are shipped from S. Vincenzo (48 miles). After passing Cornia (54 miles) we cross a large plain, and go through a pine forest, with thick underwood which harbours abundance of wild boars and deer. There are extensive government ironworks at Follonica (65 miles), which produce several millions of pounds of superior metal annually. These works are only in operation from December to May, as at other seasons malaria is prevalent. The line now turns away from the Mediterranean and passes through a valley to Potassa (74 miles), which derives its name from the quantities of potash produced in the neighbourhood. We presently reach GROSSETO (90 miles) (Hotel L'Aquila), a fortified town, and a bishop's see. The Cathedral is in the Italian Gothic style of the 13th century. The facade is of red and white marble, and the portal is adorned with elaborate sculptures. The piazza contains a statue of the Grand Duke Leopold II. There is a public library, and a small museum. A few miles distant are the ruins of the once powerful Etruscan city of Rusella. We next reach Talamone (105 miles), the ancient Telamon, beyond which we cross the Osa, and soon afterwards the Albegna, and reach the station of that name (110 miles). Near the mouth of the river, on the right, is the Torre delle Saline, in which salt is stored. There is a fine view from this point. Some miles distant are the interesting remains of the ancient city of Vetulonia. Excavations have been made, and several earthenware vases and bronzes dis

covered. Many tombs, adorned with paintings, have been opened in the neighbourhood. On quitting Albegna we pass the Stagno, or Salt Lake, of Orbetello, lying beneath Monte Argenatro, the Mons Argentarius of the ancient Romans. On the sea-coast are the fortified ports of San Stefano, and Port' Ercole (the ancient Portus Herculis), the chief business of which is in the

tunny fisheries. Orbetello (114 miles) is a town of about 3200 inhabitants, situated on the shore of the salt lake above mentioned. In its vicinity, at Ansedonia, are the ruins of the ancient Cosa, which are deserving of a visit. They can be reached by a boat, the distance being four or five miles.

We now pass by the foot of the hill of Ansedonia, and near the Lago Burano, and crossing the Chiarone, which marks the frontier between Italy and the Papal States, and the Fiora, we pass Montalto, the frontier town of the Papal States, and Corneto, and reach

CIVITA VECCHIA (159 miles) (Hotel: Orlandï's). This town, which is a free port, has of late years acquired considerable importance from the construction of the railway to Rome, and the increase of steam navigation on the Italian coast. Many passengers make the journey to Italy vid Marseilles and this place. The Port was constructed in the reign of Trajan, and considerable additions and improvements have been made, from time to time, subsequently. About three miles distant are some mineral springs called Bagni di Trajano. On the foundations of the aqueduct erected under Trajan another has been constructed by which water is conveyed a distance of twentythree miles. The Rocca, or Castle, contains some Roman and

Etruscan remains, and there are others in several private collections.

Leaving Civita Vecchia we proceed for about fifteen miles along the sea-coast. The line passes beneath the western range of the hills of La Tolfa, near the site of the Roman station of Castrum Novum, on the Aurelian Way. A fine view opens out as we approach Santa Marinella (165 miles). Here is a mediæval castle, on the site of the old Roman fortress of Punicum. Near this place are the remains of a massive bridge which crossed a small stream on the Aurelian Way. At Santa Severa (170 miles) we pass a very fine mediæval fortress, surrounded by a turreted wall. This village occupies the site of Pyrgos, the port of Core, which was celebrated in former times. Palo (179 miles) consists merely of a few houses

on to the Porta Maggiore, where the line from Naples falls in. We enter the city by an opening in the Aurelian Wall. We pass the ruins of the Temple of Minerva Medica, and the church of St Bibiana, and reach the Central Station, near the Thermæ of Diocletian, in the Piazza dei Termini.

(For description of Rome see Route 175.)

ROUTE 174.

FLORENCE TO ROME, BY ORVIETO.

(DIRECT ROUTE).

port displaying traces of Roman works. Numerous Etruscan antiquities have been discovered in the neighbourhood. Pompey and Antoninus Pius once had villas here. On leaving Palo we turn away from the coast. Crossing the Capine, we see on each side of the bridge the ruins of a sepulchre. We proceed for a considerable distance through a very fertile country, and enter the valley of the Tiber. We keep along the left bank of that river, and shortly after passing La Magliana (200 miles) obtain our first view of ROME, the prospect extending over the Campagna and the Alban hills beyond. Passing the base of the Monte Verde, we cross the Tiber on an iron bridge, and skirt the Aurelian Wall for some distance, passing near the Protestant Cemetery, and the pyramid of C. Cestius. We then cross the Via Ostiensis over a viaduct, and go

37.85; second, 26.25.

EAVING Florence we proceed up the valley of the Arno to Pontassieve (12 miles), and Figline (25 miles). In the neighbourhood of the latter place great quantities of fossil bones of various animals have been discovered. The upper valley of the Arno is interesting to the geologist. At San Giovanni (30 miles), the Duomo, and the church of San Lorenzo, contain some interesting paintings. Montevarchi (333 miles) contains the Museum of the Academia Val d'Arnese, in which the geologist will find a good collection of the fossil remains found in the district. Passing some other places we reach AREZZO (55 miles) (Hotel: Vittoria). It is a place of great antiquity, and is delightfully situated along the slopes of a range of hills. Under the name

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of Arretium, it was one of the most important cities of the ancient Etruscan League.

The Piazza Grande is adorned with handsome colonnades. It contains, among other buildings, the Church of Santa Maria della Pieve, dating from the commencement of the ninth century.

The Duomo is a handsome Italian Gothic structure, dating from 1177, with additions made in the thirteenth century. The facade is finely sculptured. The interior is adorned with frescoes and beautiful stained-glass windows. Near the high altar is a marble shrine by Giovanni di Pisa, covered with bas-reliefs and small statues. Amongst the tombs which deserve attention are those of Tarlati, Bishop of Arezzo, and chief of the Ghibellines, erected about the year 1330, and that of Pope Gregory X., dating from 1275. In the chapel of the Madonna del Conforto are two fine paintings by Luca della Robbia, and one by Andrea. There are some other paintings and frescoes that merit attention.

The church of the Badia di Santa Fiora has its ceiling adorned with paintings by Pozzi. The refectory contains Vasari's painting of the "Banquet of Ahasuerus."

The church of San Francesco contains some beautiful frescoes behind the high altar, and some other good paintings, besides a fine circular window filled with stained glass. The churches of the Annunziata, San Domenico, San Bartolomeo, and San Bernardo, have interesting frescoes.

The Palazzo Publico, erected in 1332, but modernized, contains a collection of paintings by native artists. The Confraternità di Santa Maria della Misericordia has a beautiful Gothic front and portal. Besides being an institution for the relief of the poor,

it contains a library, and a museum of natural history and antiquities.

Leaving Arezzo we proceed along the valley of the Chiana. Passing Castiglione (661 miles), in the Collegiate Church of which there are some good paintings, we reach CORTONA (72 miles), situated on the slope of a mountain, upwards of 2,000 ft. above the sea. A great portion of the ancient wall is preserved, and there are several Etruscan remains within the town, and outside it.

The Accademia Etrusca, in the Palazzo Pretorio, contains a library and a museum, chiefly of bronzes and coins. The Cathedral and the other churches contain several paintings of merit.

[At TERONTOLA (77 miles) a line goes to PERUGIA, and thence by Foligno to Terni and Orte, where it rejoins the direct route between Florence and Rome.

PERUGIA is described in Route 180, below.]

After leaving Terontola, the line passes near the celebrated LAKE OF THRASIMENE (Lago Trasimeno), near which was fought the great and disastrous battle between the Romans and Carthaginians. This lake is about 8 miles across in the widest parts, and measures about 30 miles in circumference. It is surrounded by low hills covered with oaks and pines, and abounding in plantations of olives. The principal island, the Isola Maggiore, contains a convent. There are two other islands, of no note.

Passing CHIUSI, 94 miles, where the line from Empoli and SIENA comes in, we pass Ficule and presently reach ORVIETO (119 miles) (Hotel Belle Arti). Its chief object of interest is its CATHEDRAL, one of the most remarkable specimens of Gothic architecture in Italy. It was