Central line, and soon thereafter reach BERNE, nineteen miles from Bienne. Berne is described in Route 122.

ROUTE 117.

LUCERNE TO BERNE.

BY DIRECT RAILWAY.

(Distance 59 miles. Time, express trains, 3 hours. Fares, first class, 11 frs.; second, 7.50 frs.; third, 5.30 frs.)

HIS route passes through an agreeable agricultural region, without any objects of special interest. Soon after quitting Lucerne, the line leaves that to Zurich, and passing through a tunnel 1250 yards in length, enters a broad valley, through which flows the Kleine-Emme. Passing several small stations, we cross the Emme near Werthenstein, on the left, with a deaf and dumb asylum, formerly a monastery. Soon after Wohlhausen, we reach the beautiful valley of Entlebuch, which is 15 miles in length. It is celebrated for its fine cattle and cheese. After passing several tunnels, we reach the village of Entlebuch. Passing the stations of Schupfheim, 22 miles, Escholzmatt, Langnau, the capital of the Emmenthal, one of the most beautiful valleys in Switzerland, celebrated for its cheese and fine breed of cattle, and several small stations, we reach Gumlingen on the railway between Berne and Thun, where passengers for Thun change carriages. A few minutes later we arrive at BERNE, for description of which, see Route 122.

ROUTE 118.

GENEVA TO CHAMOUNI.

D

ILIGENCES run several times a day to Chamouni, the whole distance being 53 miles. Fare, 21 francs; time, 9 hours. Travellers are cautioned to see the diligence and fix upon their seats before paying. Return tickets, owing to the competition, may often be had at Chamouni at reduced rates. Carriages, 2 horses, Geneva to Chamouni, 80 to 90 francs. 110 francs is generally asked, and bargains with drivers should be carefully made to avoid difficulty and imposition.

After leaving Geneva we see, on the left, the Voirons, and on the right, the chain of the Jura mountains and Mont Saleve, with the Chateau de Mornex forming a conspicuous object in the foreground. We first reach Chenne, situated on the Seime, and soon after passing it, cross the Foron, which divides the Canton of Geneva from Savoy. The French frontier village is Annemasse, near which we see the Mole, rising to a height of 5,800 ft. We now proceed along the valley of the Arve, passing Nangy and Contamines, at which latter place we see the ruins of the Chateau de Faucigny, and pass close to the Mole, which bears an obelisk, one of the land-marks of the trigonometrical survey of Savoy. This mountain can be ascended from BONNEVILLE (17 miles) (Hotels: Couronne, Balances, once a place of 3,000 inhabitants, but now containing only half that number. Here the Arve is crossed by a bridge, at one end of which is a column 95 ft. high, bearing a

statue of Carlo Felice, in whose honour it was erected. CLUSES (Hotel: Union), has frequently been destroyed by fire. A considerable trade is done here in the preparation of the movements of watches, which are finished at Geneva. We now proceed along the bank of the river through a ravine, above which tower lofty precipices, here and there overhanging the road, and elsewhere clothed with woods. As the valley widens, we obtain a view, on the left, of the Grotto of Balme, to which a visit may be made on mules from the village of La Balme. This cave is 800 ft. above the river, and is 600 yards deep. Above five miles beyond Maglan we pass the waterfall of Nant d'Arpenaz, one of the highest in the country. The volume of water falling over the precipice is very small, and it vanishes into spray before it reaches the valley. Soon afterwards we see, on the left, the summit of the Aiguille de Varens, rising 8,000 ft. above the sea level. The next place is

ST MARTIN (36 miles) (Hotel du Mont Blanc). The Arve is here crossed by a bridge, from which there is an imposing view of Mont Blanc, with the Aiguille du Goute, and the Dome du Gouter. On the other side of the bridge is Sallenches (Hotel: Bellevue), a town of 1,981 inhabitants. Proceeding along the valley of the Arve, we next reach Servoz (Hotel: L'Univers), from which the view of the dome of Mont Blanc is magnificent. At Pont Pelissier we see the ruined Castle of St Michael, and, crossing the bridge, ascend a steep and rough road up a height called Les Montets, while the Arve, on the left, rushes along down a series of cascades. We now descend into the valley of Chamounix, and reach the village of Les

Ouches, some distance beyond which we cross the Arve, below the Glacier des Bossons, and soon afterwards reach

CHAMOUNI (53 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST").

This village is situated in a wild and romantic valley at the north foot of Mont Blanc. The valley is about 13 miles long, and 2 broad, and is watered by the Arve. On the north side lies Mont Brévent, and behind it the chain of the Aiguilles Rouges. On the south rises the giant group of Mont Blanc, from which enormous glaciers reach almost to the bottom of the valley. The chief of these glaciers are the Glaciers des Bossons, Mer de Glace, and des Bois, d'Argentière, and du Tour. The village has little business, but depends almost entirely for its prosperity upon the crowds of tourists who flock to it during the summer months, and who make its hotels their residence while making the various interesting excursions in the neighbourhood. These excursions are divided into two classes, Courses Ordinaires, and Courses Extraordinaires, for which there are charges fixed by tariff, which tariff may be inspected at the office of the Guide en Chef, where application must also be made for guides. The guides are inscribed in a book kept for that purpose, and are of very various qualifications for their office. As a rule they are required to be taken in turn. The charges are as follows, there and back: Glacier des Bossons, 5 frs.; Brévent, by Plampraz, 8 francs; by the Flegere, 10 francs; Montanvert, Mer de Glace, and Chapeau, 9 francs; Mer de Glace, Chapeau, and Flegere, in one day, 12 francs; Montanvert and back, 6 francs; Pierre de l'Echelle, 10 francs; Jardin and back, by Chapeau, 14 francs; Martigny,

by Col de Balme, or Tête Noire, 12 francs.

For the Courses Extraordinaires the charges are as follows: Ascent of Mont Blanc, 100 francs. Grand Mulets and back in one day, 20; in two days, 30 francs. Courmayeur, by the Col du Geant, 40 francs. Glacier excursions on the Mont Blanc chain above the zone of vegetation, per day, 10 francs. Mule to the Montanvert and Chapeau, 8 francs; to Montanvert and awaiting there the return of the rider from excursion to the Jardin, 7 francs. For other excursions the charge for a mule is the same as for a guide.

EXCURSION TO MONTANVERT, THE MER DE GLACE, AND

THE CHAPEAU.

The Montanvert is, properly speaking, a mountain pasturage at an elevation of 5,724 ft. above the level of the sea. It is at the foot of the point of Charmoz, and precisely above the valley of ice, whose lower extremity is called the Glacier des Bois. Of the various excursions about Chamouni, this is the one most frequently made, because it affords a magnificent view of the sea of ice and its surrounding mountains. It is easy to descend from thence on to the glacier.

The path from Chamouni to Montanvert is practicable for mules, and affords an easy walk or ride of about 2 hours. On quitting the village, the road, after passing the bridge over the Arve in front of the Royal Hotel, crosses the valley through a succession of meadows and fields, and then winds steeply upwards until, in from 2 to 3 hours, the hotel on the Montanvert (built in 1878) is reached.

During the ascent we have ob

tained through the open spaces, and at various turns, an almost uninterrupted view of the valley of Chamouni; but on arriving at Montanvert the scene changes. Instead of a valley and fields, we find ourselves on the brink of a precipice hanging over a scene worthy of the Arctic regions, a large sea of ice and snow. "It seems as if the waves of the ocean had, during a tempest, been seized by the giant hand of Winter, and fixed indelibly in the fantastic positions they had assumed. Around extends rampart of colossal rocks, whose crumbling summits attest the influences of many thousand seasons, and whose sterile grandeur has an imposing effect on the mind.

a

This frozen stream, the Mer de Glace, ends in what at the bottom of the valley is termed the Glacier des Bois. At the upper extremity it forms two branches, the eastern one is called the Glacier de Lechaud, the other takes a south-westerly direction, and, uniting itself to the continuation of ice which descends from the summit of Mont Blanc, takes the name of the Glacier du Géant.

Those who wish to cross the Mer de Glace, and by the Mauvais Pas, to the Chapeau, may send their mules to meet them at the foot of the Chapeau.

The crossing is not dangerous, but each person should take a guide.

THE JARDIN.

This excursion occupies about eight hours from Montanvert. It may be made from Chamouni in about fourteen hours. It is advisable to take a guide for each person. The Mer de Glace is traversed as far as the foot of the Seracs de Talefre-the precipitous

slope of the Glacier Talèfre. Hence the tourist has to scramble over moraines and rocks, some of which are rather difficult and fatiguing. This excursion affords the most imposing survey of the wildernesses of the Mont Blanc group. The Jardin is a steep rock, rising out of the midst of the glacier, and derives its name from the few flowers which bloom upon it for some weeks in summer.

GLACIER DES BOSSONS.

This glacier is scarcely an hour and a half distant from Chamouni. Its near margin is easy of access. After crossing the bridge over the Arve on the road to Geneva, a path commences at the village des Bossons, and leads to the eastward, along the side of a stream which issues from the foot of the glacier. To this succeed a few fields and a fir-wood, whence a steep ascent conducts us to the border of the glacier. Immense pyramids and obelisk-shaped blocks distinguish the upper part of the glacier. Its exterior is of a white and brilliant appearance, nearly free from earth or gravel, owing to the action upon its surface of the rays of the sun. In some places it reflects little colour; in others, especially where any clefts or fissures occur, the interior is of a beautiful blue or sea-green.

THE FLÉGÈRE.

This excursion, which requires about five hours, is one of the most admirable that can be made on horseback. The road leads up the valley, passing through the village les Près, and arrives at the foot of the mountain. A zigzag path ascends along a continual forest of larch and fir, and affords a fine view of the opposite glacier. We follow the path under the shade of the fir-trees, which continue almost to the summit of the Flégère. This mountain pasturage is covered with perpetual verdure, and watered by several springs. An iron cross, at an elevation of 6,350 ft. marks its highest point. A short distance above it is a small chalet for the reception of travellers and the sale of refreshments.

This point commands one of the most comprehensive views of the whole valley. It includes every glacier in the valley, and the general range of Mont Blanc, though it is by no means equal to the view from the Brevent.

In front, from the source of the Arveiron to the foot of the Tacul, lies an uninterrupted view of the Mèr de Glace, and of the rocks which border its banks. The summit of Mont Blanc is seen on the right. The Aiguille Verte, at an elevation of 13,432 ft., stands out plainly on the east side of the Mer de Glace; having at a short distance from it the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille d'Argentière. The vault which terminates the glacier of Argentiere, and whence a branch of the Arve issues, as the Arveiron from the Glacier des Bois, is distinctly visible. There is also a clear view of the Col de Balme, with the path leading

An excursion may be made to

the Col de Balme and to the Tete Noire and back in nine hours. The route is described in Route 119.

The number of tourists who make the ascent of Mont Blanc, or who make an effort to reach even the Grand Mulets, is so small that we shall give no directions for these excursions. Those which we have described include all which tourists generally make, but several others may be performed, the finest of which is the ascent of Mont Brévent, from the summit of which is the completest view of Mont Blanc and its Aiguilles. This excursion is arduous, but mules are available as high as Planpraz, where there is a chalet. Guide and mule for the excursion, 10 francs each.

ROUTE 119.

MARTIGNY TO CHAMOU

NI, BY THE TÊTE NOIRE.

CARRIAGES, two horses, 50 francs, for 1 or 2 persons-for 3 persons, 60 francs, 4 persons, 70 francs.

(The route from VERNAYAZ to Chamouni is the same as that

here described, from Chatelard (see below), and is preferred by many to the Martigny route. Horses and 2 wheeled vehicles to be had for the trip at Grande Hotel de Gorge de Trient, at Vernayaz.)

EAVING Martigny we proceed to Martignyle-Bourg, and crossing

the Drance, commence the ascent by a pleasant path, shaded by fruit and other trees, and passing by vineyards

and meadows. The road to the left goes to the Great St Bernard (Route 121). Keeping to the right, we presently reach the village of La Fontaine, where the old route from Martigny to Chamouni, which we left immediately after crossing the Drance, falls in. At Sergnieux we again diverge to the right, and go on to Chavans. Here there is a fine view of the valley of the Rhone. We then reach the Col de Forclaz, or Col de Trient, as it is sometimes called. Here are two small inns. We pass through a forest, and cross the mountain stream flowing down from the Glacier de Trient. Shortly afterwards we reach the village of Trient, situated in a valley surrounded by precipices, the sides of some of which are covered with pines, near which our route unites with that from Chamouni over the Col de Balme. The way past Trient lies through the forest for a considerable distance, past the Tete Noire, which is a steep ascent covered with timber. The road formerly led by a dangerous pass called the Mauvais Pas, but it is now tunnelled through the rock, and commands an imposing view of the valley beneath the precipitous crags by which our route passes. At Chatelard, which is half way between Martigny and Chamouni, the path from Vernayaz joins our route (see Route 115). We soon

reach the confluence of the Eau Noire and the Barberine, the last named forming a fine waterfall (1 hour from the road, fee 1 franc). We soon reach Valorcine, the largest village in the valley. From here to Poyaz the road runs through a valley bounded by high mountains. We soon reach the top of the pass Col des Montets (4,740 feet). Descending rapidly we soon reach Argentière. The Glacier of Argen