water to the keystone about 70; but as the arch spans a cataract almost vertical in its descent, the bridge thus acquires an elevation of nearly 200 feet. The whole scene is full of savage grandeur. The granite rocks rise sheer and unbroken from the water's edge, and present a steep and sterile grandeur, which artists of many countries have in vain striven adequately to delineate.

The new bridge, even while we stand on its centre-itself 27 feet higher than the old one-seems forgotten, amidst the awful

accessories with which it is surrounded; yet, in the solidity of its structure, boldness of its design, and the airy expanse of its arch, it affords impressive evidence that the constructive genius of man can triumph over the most formidable natural obstacles.

On the 25th September 1799, the Russian army, under the command of Suwarrow, entered the village of Andermatt. Forced to retire before the Russians, the French, in effecting their retreat, blew up part of the Urnerloch, SO as to impede the enemy's advance, and destroyed the principal part of the Devil's Bridge, by which means the communication, for a time, was effectually cut off. The Russians nevertheless cleared the gallery of the Urnerloch, and restored the communication across the chasm by means of beams of wood, lashed together with the officers' sashes; but in thus forcing the passage, several hundreds were plunged headlong into the gulf. "Our army," says the general in his despatch, "penetrated the dark mountain cavern of Urseren, and made themselves masters of a bridge which connects two mountains, and justly bears the name of the Devil's Bridge. Though the enemy had destroyed

it, the progress of our victorious soldiers was not impeded. Planks were tied together with the officers' sashes, and along that bridge they threw themselves from the precipices into tremendous abysses, and, falling in with the enemy, defeated them wherever they met. It now remained for our troops to climb a mountain, the summit of which is covered with eternal snow, ice, and clay, by which numbers of men and horses were impelled down the yawning caverns, where some found their graves, and others escaped with the greatest difficulty.' "It is beyond the power of language," he concludes, "to paint this awful spectacle in all its horrors."

Beyond the Devil's Bridge the road passes through a tunnel of 180 ft., called Urnerloch or Hole of Uri, and enters the valley of Urseren, 4356 feet above the sea. We next reach

ANDERMATT (Hotels: Bellevue, du St Gothard). It is celebrated for the honey and cheese produced in the neighbourhood, and for the trout found in the Oberalp See. Many curious minerals, found in the neighbourhood, may be obtained here, and at several other of the vil lages on the route.

HOSPENTHAL (Hotel: Meyerhof). Omnibus from Goschenen,

francs. [From Hospenthal a carriage road over the Furca Pass leads to the Rhone glacier and Grimsel.] From this point the road leaves the valley of Urseren, and proceeds by zigzags to make the ascent to the summit of the St Gothard. Before reaching the Pass we finally cross the Reuss, near its source in a small lake called the Lucendro, on the right. The bridge marks the boundary between the cantons of Uri and Ticino. The Pass is 6808 feet above the sea, and

forms a valley or ravine, on each side of which rise mountains to a height of 8000 or 10,000 feet. Just below the summit is the HOSPICE. There was a hospice here as early as the 13th century. In the 17th century a larger one was constructed, but was swept away by an avalanche in 1775; it was succeeded by a third, which is now used, though the large building now used is much more recent date. During the winter the snow is sometimes driven into masses 40 feet high, and avalanches are not unfrequent. The descent on the Italian side is much steeper than on the other. The road is carried along 28 sloping terraces. Near the highest we see engraved on the rock the words "SUWARROW VICTOR," recording the victory of the Russian army under Suwarrow, over the French, who opposed them at the Pass in 1799. This part of the road is called the Val Tremola, from the alarmingly steep descent. There is nothing upon any of the great Alpine routes more striking than the descent from the top of this pass by the numerous zig-zags to Airolo. A beautiful mineral called Tremolite is found in the neighbourhood.

AIROLO. Here is the southern end of the St Gothard tunnel. The town was almost wholly destroyed by fire in 1877. At the entrance of the valley of Stalvedro is a Lombard tower. A short distance further we come to the picturesque gorge called Dazio Grande, at the lower end is a fine waterfall. FAIDO, a village surrounded by vineyards. At GIORNICO are two curious Romanesque churches; one (San Nicholas da Mira) is said to have been a Roman temple. The next station is BIASCA, and twelve miles farther is BELLINZONA (Hotel: Poste), a town

of about 2400 inhabitants, situated on the left bank of the Ticino, and the seat of the provincial government alternately with Lugano. It was strongly fortified in the middle ages and was the key of the route from Lombardy to Germany. Its three picturesque Castles, now in ruins, were the residences of the three Swiss bailiffs. The largest, called the Castello Grande, on the west, belonged to Uri. Of the two on the east, the lower belonged to Schwyz, and the upper to Unterwalden. The neighbourhood was the scene of frequent conflicts between the Italians and the Swiss.

For route from Bellinzona to Lugano and Como, see page 451.

Travellers going to Lake Maggiore take a train from Bellinzona to Locarno, where a steamer is taken to any point on the lake. The railway continues along the east shore of the Lake to Cesta Culende, but the steamer route is much to be preferred.

The LAGO MAGGIORE is about 45 miles long, and its average width is three miles. Its principal tributary is the Ticino, which retains its name on issuing from the lake at the southern extremity. It is also fed by the Toso, and the Tresa, the latter flowing from the Lago Lugano. Steamboats start from Mogadino, a few miles south-east of Locarno. They next touch at

LOCARNO (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.") It is situated on the western shore of the Lago Maggiore, amid groves of lemon and orange trees, vineyards, and other luxuriant vegetation. There are some good pictures in the Collegiate Church. The Government House is a fine building. From the Pilgrimage Church of Madonna del Sasso, above the town, a magnificent view is obtained.

Steamers 3 times daily to Arona in 5 hours. Fares: Locarno to Good restau

Arona, 4 frs. 20 c. rant on board.

Leaving Locarno the steamer proceeds along the western shore. At Ascona there is a castle and a college; numerous villages are seen in succession, many of them beautifully situated on wooded slopes, and surrounded with fruit trees and gardens. Just before we reach Canobbio, one of the oldest villages on the lake, we cross the frontier and enter Italy. Customs officers examine luggage on board. That of foreign travellers is generally passed without opening. Turning eastward we reach

LUINO (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST") (the nearest point to Lugano). Opposite it are two singular looking castles (Castelli di Cannero), formerly the haunt of notorious brigands. We next reach LAVENO, behind which rises (5918 feet) the beautiful Mount Sasso del Ferro. [From Laveno a delightful road goes in 12 miles to VARESE, see Route 165.] On nearing INTRA, we observe a monument consisting of a rotunda with a statue, in the grounds of the Villa Prina. At this point there is a view of part of the chain of mountains in which Monte Rosa is situated. We now approach PALLANZA (Grand Hotel 'Pallanza), and see before us toward Stresa, the Borromean Islands. The chief of these is the ISOLA BELLA, on which is a Château, erected by one of the Counts Borromeo in the seventeenth century. The chateau, near which are the famous gardens, contains several magnificent apartments, in some of which there are paintings of no great merit. Near the chateau is the Hotel du Dauphin, clean and comfortable, where guests are received en pension. The

Isola Madre has more garden ground, and is wilder than the Isola Bella. Visitors are shown through the chateau and gardens by attendants, who expect a small fee-1 franc for one person or 2 francs for a party is ample. The rare trees and plants in the gardens are well worth seeing. The Isola Bella may be reached from the Hotel des Iles Borromees at Stresa by row boat in five minutes. The Isola Dei Pescatori is inhabited by fishermen, whose village covers nearly its whole extent. BAVENO is the next stopping-place after Pallanza. (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.") The brick villa just beyond the town, with turrets, was the residence of Queen Victoria for three weeks in the spring of 1879. We next touch at

STRESA (Hotel: DES ILES BORROMEES), a large hotel, and favourite stopping-place for tourists. Its situation is much better than that of Baveno, which latter place, from its position, is deprived of the view of the whole lake which renders Stresa so attractive. It is the nearest and most convenient place for a visit to the Borromean Islands, and for several of the best excursions on the lake. The large hotel is much more comfortable and agreeable than that at Baveno. On the side of the mountain above it is a college, formerly a monastery. The Palazzo Bolongaro is at the north end of the village, and there are many fine villas in the neighbourhood. Passing Belgirate and two or three small stations, we reach

ARONA (Hotel: Italia), an ancient town on the western shore of the lake. The church of Santa Maria contains a fine altar-piece by Gaudenzio Vinci, representing the Holy Family, and some other smaller pictures around it. About a mile and a half before reaching

Arona we see the celebrated collossal statue of St Carlo Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan, a native of Arona. It is 66 ft. high and is placed on a pedestal 40 ft. high. The head, hands, and feet are of bronze, the rest of the figure consists of sheets of copper sustained by masonry. It was erected in 1697.

From Arona, Milan is reached by railway in 24 hours, Turin in 3 hours, and Genoa in 5 hours. Diligences leave Arona daily to cross the Simplon Pass. The steamers go no farther than

LUGANO (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"), beautifully situated on the north shore of the lake of the

same name. It is entirely Italian in character, with dingy and dirty arcaded streets, but its environs display all the richness of Italian scenery. The principal church, San Lorenzo, is built on an eminence, commanding a fine view. Another, Santa Maria degli Angioli, founded in 1499, is adorned with some remarkable paintings by Bernardino Luini. The town has a considerable trade in silk, being the principal entrepôt for traffic between Italy and Switzerland.

The lake, which is 20 miles in length, is very beautiful, and its shores present a great variety of scenery. Small steamboats ply between the various ports and Lugano. By sailing to Porlezza much of the lake may be seen, and from thence rail can be taken to Menaggio, on Lake Como. This is the pleasantest way of reaching Como. A new line has also been opened from

Luino on Lake Maggiore to Ponte Tresa on Lake Lugano, whence steamers run to Lugano.

Soon after leaving Lugano, the railway crosses the Val Tassino by a viaduct 130 feet high, passes through several tunnels, and skirts the lake. Passing near Mendrisio, we soon reach CHIASSO (17 miles), the last Swiss village, where luggage is examined by the Italian Customs officers. Åfter leaving Chiasso we reach in less than two hours

COMO. For a description of Como and its Lake, see Route 163, and of Milan, see Route 159).

ROUTE 109.

LUCERNE TO INTERLAKEN BY THE BRUNIG PASS.

Distance to Brienz, 36 miles, to Interlaken, 43 miles. Steamers three times daily to Alpnach in 14 hours, thence dili gence to Brienz (or Meiringen) in 6 hours.

Fares-Lucerne to Brienz, 10.90 francs; coupe, 12.90 francs; to Interlaken, 13.70 francs; coupe, 16.40 francs; 40 lbs. luggage free.

Carriages-Two horses, Lucerne to Brienz (or Meiringen), 45.50 francs; all the way to Interlaken, 60 francs. From Alpnach to Brienz, 1 horse carriage, 25 francs; 2 horses, 40 francs.

of Mount Pilate. The pines along the heights of this mountain were formerly carried down to the lake by a curious channel called the Slide of Alpnach. It was removed in 1819. The church was built of timber so conveyed.

The ascent of Mount Pilate can be best made from Alpnach. Time, 4 to 5 hours; horse, 10 francs (see page 444).

SARNEN (16 miles) (Hotels: Obwaldner Hof, Aigle d'Or). It is agreeably situated on the lake of Sarnen, below an eminence called Landenberg, from the terrace on which we have a beautiful view. The bridge across the river is nearly 300 years old. In the church at SACHSELN, a short distance from Sarnen, are preserved the bones of St Nicholas von der Flue. Ascending the Kaiserstuhl, a steep hill, we reach

LUNGERN (262 miles) (Hotels: Brunig, Lowe), situated near the

borders of the lake to which it gives its name, and at the commencement of the Brunig Pass. This lake was reduced in size by one half in 1836 by draining it through a tunnel into the Lake of Sarnen, by which means a large tract of valuable meadowland was recovered. The road ascends by zig-zags through a forest to the summit of the Pass, at a height of 3,294 ft. above the sea. From this point a magnificent prospect extends over the valley of Nidwalden, with Mount Pilate in the distance, and the Lake of Lungern below; it includes also several mountains in the chain of the Bernese Alps. Near the summit is the Brunig Hotel.

The Kulm road to Meyringen leaves our route near the hotel MEYRINGEN may be reached from this point in 12 hour (see Route 111).

Descending by the new car

riage road, from which the views over the lake are very fine, we arrive in about an hour at

This

BRIENZ (36 miles) (Hotels: L'Ours, Weisses-Kreutz). town is beautifully situated on the lake of the same name. From hence to INTERLAKEN steamers go three times a day, passing by the Giessbach shore, where we see the HOTEL GIESSBACH, a magnificent new hotel (opened in 1875), one of the best in Switzerland." It was burnt down in 1883, but has been rebuilt in magnificent style. It commands fine views of the falls and Lakes Brienz and Thun. Passengers are conveyed from the landing-place to the hotel by an ingenious tramway, the carriages of which are drawn up by water power. The tramway is chiefly constructed of iron resting upon stone piers. Its length is 660 yards, the gradient being 28 in 100.

We must caution travellers against taking the advice of interested drivers to press on to Interlaken without spending the night at Giessbach. The illumination of the Falls is a sight the tourist should by no means miss.

The falls of the Giessbach have a character as well as beauty altogether peculiar; six of them can be seen at one glance, descending in succession from the wooded heights of the mountain above. In the tourist season they are illuminated nightly by coloured port-fires, and then present a singularly beautiful appearance. The middle fall is seen from a small gallery carried directly behind it, and the cataract rushes close before the spectator. The falls above, on the higher declivity, are very fine, though inferior in grandeur to the more impetuous Reichenbach.